IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


■so 


1^ 


2.5 
2.2 


;!:    1^    III  2.0 

Ml 


1.25 

1  1.4       1.6 

1—     — 

.4 6"     

► 

<^ 


-a 


A 


// 


o 


/ 


.^>>  .W^^^ 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  M580 

(716)  872-4503 


% 


% 


m 


% 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/ICJVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


D 


n 
n 

n 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagde 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^e  et/ou  pellicul6e 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  causa  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intdrieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouties 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte. 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6x6  filmdes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl^mentaires; 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  dtd  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  methods  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquds  ci-dessous. 


I      I    Coloured  pages/ 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 


□    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pelliculdes 


r~y  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
l\/l    Pages  ddcolordes,  tachetdes  ou  piqudes 


n~|    Pages  detached/ 


D 


Pages  ddtachdes 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Quality  indgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materif 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppldmentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


[~~V  Showthrough/ 

I      I    Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I      I    Includes  supplementary  material/ 

I — I    Only  edition  available/ 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  ref limed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  film^es  6  nouveau  de  faqon  6 
obtenir  la  meilleui'e  image  possible. 


The 
tot 


The 
pos 
oft 
film 


Ori{ 
beg 
the 
sior 
othi 
firsi 
sior 
or  i 


The 
sha 
TIN 
whi 

Mai 
diff 
ent 
bes 
rigt 
req 
me' 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film6  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqui  ci-dessous 

10X                            14X                             18X                             22X 

26X 

30X 

^ 

12X 

16X 

20X 

24X 

28X 

32X 

The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 


L'exemplaire  filmd  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
g6n6rosit6  de: 


MacOdrum  Library 
Carleton  University 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


MacOdrum  Library 
Carleton  University 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  l'exemplaire  filmd,  et  en 
conformitd  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimde  sont  filmds  en  commenqant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmds  en  commenqant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  appfvaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmds  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cliche,  il  est  film6  d  partir 
de  Tangle  supdrieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas.  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n6cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


1 

2 

3 

32X 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

V 


0^ 


-^a>^ 


(SIE1SISS1IL\^)^ID 


St 


THE 


ADJACENT  SEAS. 


AND 


THE  NORTH-WEST  PASSAGE 


TO  THE 


9 


ILLUSTRATED  IN  A 


VOYAGE  TO  DAVIS  S  STRAIT, 


During  the  Summer  o/"  1817. 


BY  BERNARD  O'REILLY.  Es^. 


NEW-YORK  : 

PUBLISHED  BY  JAMES  EASTBUBN  AND  CO. 

AT  THE  LITERARY  ROOMS,  BROADWAY. 

Clayton  If  Kingaland,  Printers, 


1818. 


,v  - 


i^', 


\ 


PREFACE. 


The  absolute  want  of  scientific  information  on  the  subject  of 
northern  climates  induced  the  author  of  these  observations  to  sub- 
mit to  a  situation  little  attractive  to  choice  in  every  consideration, 
namely,  the  place  of  surgeon  to  a  whale  ship,  in  order  that,  from 
personal  experience,  such  information  might  be  derived  as  would 
be  acceptable  to  the  generality  of  readers  interested  in  such  sub- 
jects. The  matter  of  inquiry  seemed  to  involve  many  objects 
highly  deserving  of  illustration. 

The  arctic  animals  and  birds  of  passage  there  found,  and  the 
whale  fishery  as  connected  with  the  manufactures  and  the  mari- 
time interests  of  Britain,  given  in  detail,  appeared  to  the  author 
an  object  of  great  interest,  and  consequently  occupied  much  of 
his  attention.  This,  therefore,  it  is  presumed,  will  be  consider- 
ed as  highly  important. 

The  arguments  adduced  to  prove  the  practicability  of  a  north- 
west passage  are  supported  by  facts  not  hitherto  examined,  and 
are  of  such  weight  as  to  give  confidence  in  their  accuracy.  The 
accomplishment  of  this  great  object  must  be  evidently  of  vast 
benefit  to  the  commercial  interests  of  Great  Britain,  and  cannot 
fail  to  interest  the  reader,  as  the  expectation  of  its  discovery,  ex- 
cited in  some  measure  by  the  fortunate  voyage  here  related,  has 
induced  the  government  to  fit  out  ships  for  a  voyage  of  discovery, 


IV 


I'KKI'ACF. 


wl.icli  alter  all  may  not  be  as  IbitunaU'.     F-r  ilio  .lUcif.us  ol 

science  and  of  humanity,  may  it  be  still  more  so  ! 

Phenomena  of  almosphcro,   new  to  men  of  science,  and  of  im- 

poitant  valne  m  natural  history,  may  also  be  very  conlidtntly  held 

forth  as  objects  worthy  of  altontion. 

With  regard,  then,  to  points  mont  important  to  public  nirornia 

lion,  as  well  as  in  gratification  of  the  feeling  which  led  the  author 

into  the  arctic  regions— the  general  influence  of  seasons  on  the 
human  species  in  high  northern  latitudes,  and  in  countries  un- 
doubtedly insular— the  migratory  animals  frctpienting  tliose  cli- 
mates—the natural  phenomena  of  atmosphere,  and  the  ascertain- 
ment of  magnetic  variation — with  regard  to  these,  this  work,  in 
presenting  facts,  leaves  little  to  conjecture,  less  to  speculation. 

Aware  of  the  system,  by  wliich,  according  to  law,  the  (Govern- 
ment is  furnished  with  a  log  returned  from  each  ship  employed  in 
the  "Greenland  fisheries"'— a  log  calculated  to  support  philoso- 
phical inquiry,  only  by  reciting  an  exhibition  of  voyage  by  no 
means  prejudicial  to  the  ship-owner's  interest,  and  (jvite  enough 
for  the  Government  to  know  when  additional  revenue  is  the  objcci 
to  be  recorded  on  the  collector's  books— perfectly  aware  of  this, 
it  appeared  incumbent  on  one  devoted  to  the  muse  of  science  to 
abstract  himself  from  such  interested  purposes — to  leave  to  the 
male  of  a  ship  such  arrangements  of  his  log  as  might  best  suit  the 
purpo.-es  of  his  employers,  and  to  the  master  such  plans  of  his 
private  journal  as,  detailing  every  circumstance  which  could  aid 
the  advancement  of  his  own  interest,  might  be  unseen  by  every 
eye  but  his  own. 

Such  i-ecords,  truly  I'emote,  in  regard  to  elucidation,  from  facts 
which  concern  the  great  cause  of  science,  induced  the  author  not 
to  trust  for  support  to  documents  placed  in  custom-houses,  nor 
to  rely  on  the  uncertain  information  which  might  be  coaxed  from 
the  master  of  a  whale  ship,  but  rarefully  to  efloct  h\<  intention 


:'»/ 


PREFACE* 


by  keeping  a  journ.il  adapted  to  all  the  scientific  objects  lie  had 
in  view.  This  was  his  purpose  in  undortakinii;  a  voyae;c  hazard- 
ous ill  the  extreme,  cooped  up  with  uninformed,  unsociable  be- 
ings. Nature  was  the  grand  object  of  his  choice,  and  his  sole 
consolation. 

Compelled  by  ardency  of  inquiry  to  endure  unusual  privation  of 
sleep,  and  severest  transitions  of  temperature,  the  author  allowed 
to  pass  no  opportunity,  consistent  with  the  maintenance  of  health, 
frequently  urged  to  the  extremity  of  constitutional  endurance, 
lest  a  single  thing  conducive  to  the  enlightening  of  the  public  mind 
should  escape  his  observation.  With  this  intent,  painful  personal 
feeling  was  disregarded  in  order  to  ascertain  the  latitude  and  ex- 
act situation  of  every  point  of  land  that  came  into  view.  This  was 
effected  chiefly  by  means  of  the  attention  which  Mr.  W.  Brass, 
master  of  the  Thomas,  paid  to  suggestions  incessantly  urged  upon 
him,  in  the  midst  of  the  duties  which  a  paramount  forbiddance  of 
law,  and  the  interests  of  his  owner,  required. 

In  sight  of  the  Linn  kan  Islf.s,  July  17,  the  latitude  was  de- 
termined, from  Mr.  Brass's  observations,  to  be  seventy-five  degrees, 
seventeen  minutes,  north ;  the  variation  of  the  magnetic  needle,  a1 
the  same  time  noted,  being  seven  points.  Many  days  elapsed  be- 
fore the  sailing  of  the  Thomas  from  that  latitude,  occasionally 
shifting  her  station,  as  necessary  for  the  purposes  of  the  voyage, 
On  one  such  occasion,  the  termination  of  the  Linncean  Mes  came  dis- 
tinctly in  view,  the  open  sea  lying  beyond,  when  the  latitude,  no  oh 
servation  being  taketi,  was  most  probably  about  the  seventy-seventh 
degree.  The  state  of  the  atmosphere  permitted  a  prospect  of  o 
degree  at  least  further  to  the  northward,  where  the  continental  ice 
was  evidently  interminable.  The  horizon  at  the  same  time  to  the 
westward  was  clear,  and  exhibited  no  appearance  of  blink  ;  all 
the  broken  field  ice  having  drifted  down  to  the  southward,  and 


4 


VI 


I'KLtACL. 


the  sea  reniamirij?  as  clear  as  the  Atlantic,  blue,  ami  agitated  by 
a  coii!<i(leral»le  swell  from  the  north-west ! 

The  Thomas  was  the  last  ship  that  sailed  from  the  presence  ol 
the  Liiinasan  Isles  in  the  summer  of  1817.  The  date  in  the 
author's  journal  is  July  21,  the  degree  of  atmospherical  heat  ai 
noon,  marked  by  tiie  thermometer,  being  forty-eight  of  Fahren- 
heit'^ scjile, 


i 


CONTENTS. 

INTRODUCTION. 
Ancient  History  of  Greenland 1 

CHAPTER  1. 
The   Voyage  Outward 17 

CHAPTER  H. 
or  the  State  of  Greenland,  as  Insular,  or  Continental  -  -       41 

CHAPTER   HI. 
Of  the  Natives  of  Greenland 45 

CHAPTER  IV. 
Of  the  Arctic   Ice 75 

CHAPTER  V. 
Arctic    Zoology 84 

CHAPTER  VI. 
On  the  effecting  of  a  North- West  Passage 129 

CHAPTER  VII. 
Of  the  Attempts  which  have  been  made  to  discover  a  North- 
West  Passage 185 

CHAPTER  Vin 
Of  the  Expedition  lately  prepared 205 

CHAPTER  VIII. 
Of  the  only  Route  by  which  Success  may  be  attained  -  -  -     219 

CHAPTER  IX. 
Of  the  importance  of  Disko  in  the  Case  of  Success    -  -  -       227 

CHAPTER  X. 
Concluding  Observations  on  a  North-West  Passage  -  -  -       24 1 


♦ 


I 


w 


! 


INTRODUCTION. 


ANCIENT  HISTORY  OF  GREENLAND. 


The  history  oCnorllicrn  nations  is  mncli  involved  in 
the  niisls  of  antiqiiitj,  wliicii,  like  the  fogs  constantly 
met  wit! I  in  northern  regions,  are  apt  to  magnify  ob- 
jects belield  through  sucli  a  medium.  The  poems  of 
Ossian  owe  their  beautiful  imagery  to  such  dehnea- 
tion  ;  the  Icelandic  Annals,  detailing  splendours  high- 
ly apocryphal,  may  be  looked  upon  as  a  venerable, 
but  appropriate  illustration  of  the  same  remark;  and 
no  portion  of  the  globe,  with  regard  to  early  times, 
affords  more  instances  of  such  fondness  for  the  sub- 
lime, than  may  bo  found  in  the  History  of  Ireland. 

Ancient  Scandinavia  also,  on  the  weather-beaten 
and  lichen-clad  rock,  [)rcsents  many  Runic  carvings 
expressive  of  the  fame  of  early  heroes,  who,  in  the 
admiration  of  their  followers,  became  objects  of  dei- 
fication. The  ruins  of  an  extensive  city  on  the  banks 
of  the  Irtish  excited  the  curiosity  of  some  travellers, 
and  they  there  found  vellum  manuscripts  stored  up, 
which  were  watched  with  religious  care  by  the  bar- 
barous inhabitants  of  the  ruins.  The  travellers, 
however,  contrived  to  possess  themselves  of  a  few  of 
those  records;  and  part,  being  sent  to  the  French 
Academy,  were  deciphered  as  being  some  religious 
decree^  written   in   an  old  Tartarian  dialect  in  use 

1 


INTRODUCTION. 


r.ii.1 


"     >i. 


'»1 


about  the  age  of  Tamerlane,  who,  previously  to  his 
grand  conquests  in  India,  was  nothing  but  a  powerlul 
northern  lord.  Modern  Russia  even  owes  to  writers 
of  polished  talent,  contemporary  with  the  more  im- 
proved state  of  that  empire,  rather  than  to  the  rude  le- 
gends of  her  own  inhabitants,  whatever  of  elegance 
is  flung  over  her  early  history. 

With  regard  to  the  present  subject,  the  scantiness 
of  materials  to  form  an  interesting  history  of  Green- 
land, renders  the  undertaking  unsatisfactory  and  un- 
gracious ;  but,  with  the  reader's  indulgence,  so  much 
shall  be  detailed  as  appears  most  consistent  with  fact. 
The  paiticulars  have  been  carefully  selected  from 
such  authorities  as  are  the  most  respectable  on  this 
head. 

Snorro  Sturleggen,  who  lived  in  the  twelfth  cen- 
tury, is  stated  to  have  been  the  author  of  the  Specu- 
lum Regale,  a  compilation  of  ancient  Icelandic  rhymes, 
collected  in  the  year  1215.  This  is  the  first  historic 
light  to  guide  inquiry  in  the  history  of  Greenland. 
The  next  writer  to  be  noticed  is  Torfieus,  who  was  by 
birth  an  Icelander.  His  book  bears  the  title  of 
Gra3nlandia  Antiqua.  Torfa;us  appears  to  have  em- 
ployed Sturleggen's  work  as  an  inexhaustible  source 
of  fact,  his  whole  context  being  little  else  than  a  trans- 
cript from  that  memorable  legend.  This  writer  dates 
the  first  discovery  of  Greenland  by  Europeans,  in 
the  year  982  of  the  Christian  era ;  and  on  his  autho- 
rity is  founded  the  early  history  of  Greenland  as  con- 
nected with  the  European  world. 

With   respect  to    the    commentaries   of  Torfa^us, 
much  caution  is  adviseable  in  admitting  his  details,  as 


'VI 

■J 


1 


t 


m^ 


INTRODUCTION. 


h'lH 

rl'ul 

tcrs 

iin- 

le- 

ince 


1 


the  state  of  science  in  the  times  in  which  he  wrote, 
and  the  great  difficulties  attending  expeditions  by 
sea  in  those  rude  ages,  together  with  the  exaggera- 
tions that  such  adventures  would  naturally  give  rise 
to,  must  perplex  or  mislead. 

Tlie  writers  cf  those  times  were  possessed  of  a 
chivalrous  spirit  to  exalt  the  character  of  their  coun- 
trymen, and  the  very  act  of  undertaking  or  effecting 
a  voyage  was  suflTicient  to  afford  the  adventuring  hero 
a  distinguished  place  in  the  historical  record  of  the 
times. 

The  Danish  Missionary  Crantz  has  endeavoured  to 
make  up  for  the  deficiencies  of  his  predecessors  in 
relating  the  history  of  Greenland.  That  writer  used 
the  materials  of  a  primitive  missionary,  Egede,  who 
published  an  account  of  his  great  and  extraordinary 
endeavours  to  benefit  the  native  Greenlanders.  The 
difficulties  Egede  had  to  encounter,  even  in  the  out- 
set of  his  undertaking,  were  excessive;  but,  in  1721, 
he  at  length  succeeded  in  obtaining  permission  from 
the  King  of  Denmark  to  proceed  on  his  humane  pur- 
pose of  communicating  the  gospel  tidings  to  the  sup- 
posed lost  settlers  from  Norway,  who,  in  the  stories 
of  the  day,  were  said  to  inhabit  the  eastern  shores  of 
Greenland,  about  the  sixty-fourth  degree  of  north  la- 
titude. Accordingly,  in  the  same  year,  the  worthy 
and  pious  missionary  arrived  at  Baal's  River,  being 
driven  thither,  rather  than  succeeding  in  his  endea- 
vours to  gain  the  point  of  coast  to  which  the  prevail- 
ing traditions  of  the  time  directed  him.  At  the  above 
place  native  Greenlanders  were  found,  who  express- 


4 


INTUODI'CTION, 


cd  the  greatest  reluctance   to  any  settlement  being 
made  upon  their  shores. 

This  acconnt  seems  to  have  but  little  wel2:ht  even 
with  Crantz,  the  writer  who  repeats  it.  Jle  possess- 
ed a  stronir  imairination,  involved  in  all  the  Bible 
commentaries  of"  the  day,  and,  though  evidently  pos- 
sessed of  much  capacity  of  thouqiit,  appears  not  to 
have  availed  himself  of  the  great  and  abundant  ma- 
terials for  observation,  which  his  situation  alForded 
him,  but  was  obliged  to  eke  out  a  tardy  volume  of  ec- 
clesiastical detail  to  gratify  his  German  patrons.  The 
confusion  of  dates  in  Crantz's  book  is  extremely  per- 
plexing, and  is  calculated  very  much  to  mislead  in- 
quiry. 

The  cold  which  prevails  in  the  arctic  regions  is 
also  another  source  of  difficulty  in  the  endeavour  to 
procure  accurate  information  rec^arding  those  coun- 
tries from  the  natives,  and  the  harsh  medium  of  the 
Danish  lanccuai^e,  and  uncertain  transfer  of  intelli- 
gence  through  the  Danish  interpreter,  renders  an  ap- 
plication to  that  intent  generally  fruitless,  or  at  best 
unsatisfactory. 

As  to  the  poor  Grccnlandevri,  little  information  can 
be  had  from  them  regarding  the  history  of  their  na- 
tion. They  are  said  to  have  no  "  oral,  nor  written 
records  ;"  but  some  traces  of  tradition  are  cherished 
among  them  to  encourage  the  rising  generation  to 
imitate  the  exploits  of  some  distinguished  progenitor, 
who  left  a  deathless  fame  by  his  skill  and  intrepidity 
in  killing  seals.  Yet  what  can  such  tradition  avail  in 
the  search  for  historic  information  ?  With  regard  to 
the  Greenlander, such  inquiry  is  unavailing  :  and  theij 


.■| 


IXTRODUCTION. 


I 


I 
I 


dislike  of  strangers  intruding  on  their  fishing  haunts 
rendots  it  equally  useless  to  seek  from  them  any  ac- 
cMiate  account  of  tlicir  present  masters.  On  this 
|)oiiit,  the  European  historians  remain  the  only  re- 
source. 

The  authors  above  referred  to,  namely  Snorro 
Sturleggen,  who  is  said  to  be  the  writer  of  the  "  Spe- 
culum Regale,"  and  his  commentator  Torfa)us,  and 
latterly  Egede  and  his  commentator  Crantz,  appear 
to  be  the  most  distinguished  amongst  those  who  liavc 
written  of  Greenland.  The  accounts  of  those  writers 
fix  the  discovery  of  that  country  in  the  year  9o2.  But 
Claudius  Christophersen,  otiierwisc  Lyscander,  a  di- 
vine, has  conjectured  the  date  of  that  event  to  be  in 
the  year  770.  The  latter  rests  on  reference  to  a  Bull 
of  Pope  Gregory  IV^.  dated  in  the  year  835,  wherein 
the  conversion  of  the  fcelanders  and  Greenlanders 
is  expressly  committed  to  the  first  northern  apostle, 
named  Ansicarius. 

These  conjectures  have  much  importance  attached 
to  them,  as  they  lay  the  foundation  of  emigration  from 
Europe  at  a  very  early  period,  however  unfixed  that 
period  may  be.  The  subsequent  accounts  refer  ge- 
nerally to  other  migrations  from  the  same  quarter, 
having  various  objects  in  view:  some  to  propagate 
the  Gospel  anew;  others  to  retrace  the  steps  pointed 
out  by  annals,  at  that  time  often  copied  in  gilt  cha- 
racter; others  again,  urged  by  the  love  of  gain,  to 
recover  possession  of  such  treasures  as  were  reported 
to  exist  in  those  lands  of  wine,  honey,  corn,  and  cattle. 
These  various  pursuits  were  concentrated  under  one 
head,  the  finding  of  Old  or  Lost  Greenland.     How 


6 


INTRODUCTION. 


such  an  inquiry  became  necessary  shall  be  next  the 
snhjcrt  of  research. 

It  appears  from  the  early  accounts  that  Eric  Raude, 
an  enterprising  chieftain,  by  birth  a  Norwegian, 
being-  compelled  to  go  into  banishment,  was  the  first 
discoverer  of  Greenland.  An  expedition  was  fitted 
out  the  following  year,  consisting  of  twenty-five  ships, 
fourteen  of  which  only  arrived.  Where  the  point  of 
destination  lay,  the  story  does  not  inform ;  yet  where- 
ver those  adventurers  landed  they  found  such  people 
as  answer  the  description  of  the  Greenlanders  of  the 
present  day.  Thorfin,  an  Icelandic  chieftain,  is  said 
to  have  discovered  Wineland,  which  is  conjectured  to 
be  Newfoundland,  where  he  also  met  with  a  similar 
people.  They  called  them  Skraellings,  which  means 
persons  of  a  diminutive  size,  and  which  the  reader 
will  hereafter  find  is  consonant  to  modern  observa- 
tion. The  native  Greenlanders  have  amongst  them 
some  confused  and  imperfect  accounts  of  the  Kablu- 
na3t,  that  is,  the  European,  having  called  them  by  the 
name  of  Karalit,  which,  from  their  mode  of  omitting 
the  first  letter  of  words  different  from  their  own,  bears 
a  resemblance  to  Skrrclhng,  and  in  some  degree  main- 
tains the  credit  of  the  tradition. 

One  remarkable  trait  in  the  character  of  this  peo- 
ple is  an  insurmountable  aversion  to  the  presence  of 
intruders ;  and  such  they  consider  every  one  who  is 
not  of  their  own  nation.  In  whatever  manner  they 
and  the  new-comers  agreed,  whether  adopting  their 
usual  measure,  of  withdrawing  to  a  remote  distance 
to  leave  the  helpless  strangers  to  perish,  or  to  retire 
from  their  fisheries,  Is  not  related.  Ivar  Beer,  an  earlv 


I 


% 


INTRODUCTION. 


historian,  mentions,  that  Greenland  was  inhabited  and 
tilled  both  on  the  eastern  and  western  sides,  in  the 
fourteenth  century.  This  is  further  confirmed  by 
another  statement,  which  represents  Lief,  the  son  of 
Eric  Raude,  coming  to  Norway,  in  999,  to  report  on 
the  state  of  Greenland.  Adam  Bremensis,  who 
wrote  in  the  eleventh  century,  makes  mention  of  Lief 
having  discovered  Newfoundland,  in  the  year  lOOl, 
and  went  the  year  following  to  Greenland,  probably 
on  his  fathers  course,  and  met  with  Skra^llings  in 
boats. 

Accounts  thus  far  considered  may,  in  a  great  de- 
j^rec,  establish  the  fact  of  the  Norwegians  and  Ice- 
landers having  been  the  first  Europeans  who  can 
claim  the  discovery  of  Greenland.  Yet  it  must  be 
admitted,  that  others  had  the  merit  of  discoverinff  it 
before  them ;  for  the  former  visiters  found  a  people 
of  small  stature  already  in  possession.  The  Nor- 
wegian relations  go  no  higher  than  the  sixty-fourth 
degree,  which  is  about  the  entrance  to  Baal's  River 
on  the  west  side,  and  the  promontory  of  Herjolf's 
Ness,  in  the  sixty-third  degree  on  the  eastern  side. 
The  former  was  the  principal  place  of  the  colony; 
and  between  these  two  points  were  situate  numerous 
little  settlements,  at  present  said  to  be  indicated  by 
their  ruins,  the  largest  of  which  are  visible  on  the 
south-eastern  extremity  of  the  country  between  Staten 
Hook  and  Frobisher's  Straits.  These  ruins,  of 
churches  and  large  dwellings,  are  a  further  support 
to  the  foregoing  statement;  but  the  natives  about 
Baal's  River,  when  asked  for  the  explanation  of  the 
name  of  a  particular  place  there,  describe  it  as  the 


8 


LNTRODUCTION. 


place  where  men  shot  arrows  at  one  another.  Here 
then  it  appears  the  extirpation  of  the  Europeans 
began,  wliich  was  carried  round  the  scttiemenls  in 
savage  fury  by  the  Skra^ihngs,  until  the  country  be- 
came their  own  again;  or,  if  any  survived  the  mas- 
sacre, cold,  privations,  and  despair,  must  have  ef- 
fected their  destruction. 

In  the  fourteenth  century,  the  Skrtcllings  suddenly 
made  their  appearance  in  great  numbers  in  West 
Greenland;  and  their  fust  onset  produced  the  death 
of  eighteen  Norwegians.  This  petty  war  continued 
long  enough  to  obta  infor  the  country  the  name  of 
Old  or  Lost  Greenland  among  Europeans;  and  the 
natives  still  remember  the  war  of  extermination  car- 
ried on  by  their  forefathers  with  tlie  Kabluna^t,  that 
is,  the  European  intruders,  and  their  having  bravely 
killed  or  expelled  the  invaders. 

To  another  cause  may  also  be  attributed  this  catas- 
trophe. In  the  year  1350,  a  great  plague  desolated 
nearly  all  Europe,  but  ravaged  most  severely  the 
northern  countries.  Possibly  the  ruinous  effects  of 
this  pestilence  may  have  reached  Greenland,  and  de- 
stroyed the  scanty  colonies  there.  Excessive  cold  is 
known  to  approximate,  in  its  effects,  to  excessive  heat ; 
and  to  this  cause  principally  is  attributed  the  nume- 
rous and  civilized  population  of  Iceland  having  been 
swept  away  during  a  similar  visitation.  The  journal 
of  Bishop  Egede  records  a  similar  waste  of  human 
life,  among  the  natives,  which  he  witnessed  to  be  pro- 
duced by  the  baneful  contagion  of  the  small-pox,  in- 
troduced by  the  crews  of  some  ships  that  conveyed 
thither  a  Moravian  mission,  in  the  year  1733,  and 


>i7i 
if 


4 
4. 


i 


INTRODUCTION. 


9 


i 


which  raged  from  September  in  that  year,  till  the 
June  following.  At  one  place  alone,  200  families  of 
(Jreenlanders  were  cut  off',  leaving  only  eighteen  sur- 
vivors. 

That  the  period  of  the  former  pestilence  must  have 
been  singularly  calamitous,  is  evident  from  the  disap- 
pearance of  an  extensive  island  in  the  northern  At- 
lantic, peopled  with  polished  inhabitants  dwelling  in 
a  hundred  towns,  which,  shortly  after  its  discovery, 
was  suddenly  overwhelmed  in  the  ocean,  and  disap- 
peared with  every  living  creature  on  its  surface. 

About  that  time,  the  spirit  of  discovery  was  much 
indulged,  and  almost  every  country  produced  ardent 
adventurers.  The  people  of  Britain  and  Ireland  were 
not  inactive  in  this  respect;  the  latter  being  repre- 
sented as  trading  to  West  Friesland,  the  island  above- 
mentioned,  for  the  sake  of  the  fisheries.  As  no  exist- 
ing history  of  Ireland  makes  mention  of  this  circum- 
stance, the  doubt  may  be  lessened  by  stating,  that  it 
was  part  of  the  policy  of  Queen  Elizabeth  to  deprive 
that  island  of  her  records,  by  which  probably  more 
mischief  was  done  to  the  great  cause  of  history  than 
could  be  balanced  by  the  little  triumph  of  humbling  a 
nation's  pride. 

Columbus,  in  entering  on  his  immortal  pursuit,  came 
to  Britain  to  carry  his  purpose  by  kingly  assistance. 
He  was  refused  the  protection  he  sought;  and  Spain 
profited  by  his  disappointment.  Two  noble  Venetians 
following  his  example,  obtained  a  ship  in  Ireland,  and 
sailed  to  West  Friesland,  which  their  surprise  at  find- 
ing populous  and  flourishing  caused  them  to  announce 
as  having  been  by  them  first  discovered.     The  names 


10 


If.TKODi;CTlON. 


of  these  Venetians  are  Nicliolas  and  Anthon)'  Zeni : 
their  discovery  is  ilated  I'MiO.  Tliis  island,  West 
Friesland,  was  laid  down  in  tlie  fifty-eighth  degree, 
between  Iceland  and  Greenland.  It  is  said  to  liave 
been  touched  at  by  Frohi^iier,  in  one  of  his  voyages 
in  search  of  gold  in  Greenland.  This  spot  is  now 
marked  on  the  charts  as  occupying  an  extensive  and 
dangerous  tract  of  ocean,  and  is  named  the  Sunken 
Land  of  Bust?.  Mariners  are  studiously  careful  to 
avoid  it.  It  is  in  tenipestuous  weather  covered  by  a 
high  and  terrible  sea.  When  humane  reflection  comes 
to  contemplate  this  awful  event,  considerations  of  the 
most  painful  description  must  arise. 

The  darkness  in  which  the  northern  history  in- 
volves the  fate  of  tliis  island  is  peculiarly  uninviting  to 
accurate  research.  That  there  has  been  a  West 
Friesland  is  by  no  means  doubtful;  and  that  such  a 
country  was  not  the  Greenland  of  late  note,  is  equally 
certain.  The  population  in  the  hundred  towns  of  this 
island,  placed  so  far  north  as  represented,  and  so  far 
to  the  soiitliward  of  Iceland,  was  well  worthy  of  the 
notice  of  the  historians  of  the  time.  The  mind,  how- 
ever rude,  in  viewing  tlie  waves  that  still  tower  over 
its  waste,  must  sicken  at  the  contemplation.  The  site 
can  only  come  within  the  cixsual  glance  of  the  wary 
mariner;  and  in  the  latitude  of  die  Sunken  Land  such 
a  man  is  guided  by  his  fears  to  avoid  the  dangerous 
spot.  Valleys  of  dreadful  soundings,  and  peaks  of 
tremendous  and  destructive  contact,  buried  in  the 
ocean  water,  forbid  an  exact  inquiry  regarding  its 
actual  position.  That  the  island  in  question  has  been 
there,  about  the  time  mentioned,  facts  forbid  us  to 


I 


.^. 


INTRODUCTION. 


11 


'i 

t 

I 

^5 


I 


disbelieve ;  whilst  its  fearful  disappearance  very  natu- 
rally prevents  the  rarely  passing  stranger  from  ex- 
ploring the  actual  depths  thereabouts,  in  order  to  de- 


te 


the  d; 


)fth 


erous  circumstances 

Qua;re?  May  not  this  land  of  Buss  so  sunken  bear 
some  probable  rrfcicncc  to  the  Old  or  Lost  Green- 
land, or  the  Atalaritis  of  the  Greek  writers  ?  It  would 
not  be  easy  to  disprove  this. 

It  certainly  must  apjjeur  matter  of  surprise,  that 
the  name  of  tliese  coujjtries  should  still  be  Greenland, 
thouEfh  even  in  less  or  more  degree  the  peculiar  scene 
of  snow  and  ice.  Tlie  accounts,  on  which  popular 
belief  has  hitherto  rested,  inform  the  public  by  making 
a  comparison  between  those  regions  and  the  island  of 
Iceland,  whence  the  early  navigators  sailed  westward. 
Strange,  that  at  a  time  when  some  imaginary  hero, 
worthy  of  Runic  record,  some  such  man  as  Flokko  is 
reported  to  have  been,  did  not  direct  his  followers  to 
a  place  of  such  natural  importance  as  West  Friesland 
must  have  been,  so  contiguous,  and  so  much  towards 
the  ijenial  south.  We  must  conclude,  that  the  island 
so  designated,  the  Atalantis  of  the  Greeks,  or  the 
famed  Ultima  Thule,  s'tould  have  stood  in  more  note 
than  to  escape  the  observation  ot  men  sailing  for 
strange  and  consequently  unknown  countries.  The 
name  Greenland  would  in  that  event,  that  is,  the  dis- 
covery and  colonization  of  a  fine  and  fertile  soil,  af- 
terwards stiidded  with  a  hundred  towns,  have  been 
more  appropriately  and  si<^nificantly  applied  than  to 
the  barren  peaks  about  Staten  Hook,  or  Cape  Fare- 
well, or  such  other  parts  of  southern  Greenland,  as 


m 


— :  ■*>— * 


12 


IM'UODUCTION. 


must  naturally  present  tlicuiselvcs  first  over  the  liori- 
y.on  to  tlie  eye  of  the  voyager. 

From  the  pen  of  one  of  the  writers  on  tliis  subject, 
we  are  told  that  the  name  Greenland  was  o-ivcn  to  the 
Countries  where  the  Norwegians  ventured  to  fix  their 
settlements,  in  contradistinction  to  the  bleak  and 
snow-clad  mountains  of  Iceland.  Both,  however, 
have  been  niisa[)plied.  If  the  early  annals  of  Iceland 
be  correct,  die  appellation  of  that  island  is  derived 
from  the  immense  quantities  of  ice  annually  driven  on 
its  shores;  but  no  season  of  the  year  presents  the  as- 
pect of  Greenland  (with  the  exception  of  rocky  faces 
of  mountains  fronting  a  southern  sun)  without  the  pre- 
sence of  a  cloak  of  snow,  or  a  chilling  curtain  of  ice. 
It  is  true,  the  elevated  lands  in  Greenland  produce  in 
themselves  such  an  absorption  of  solar  heat,  during 
the  summer  months,  as  to  make  the  atmosphere  insup- 
portably  sultry  at  certain  hours,  and  during  particular 
winds;  but  vegetation  has  not  there  suflicient  life  to 
warrant  the  use  of  such  an  application  of  the  epithet 
green,  as  characterizing  the  general  aspect  of  the 
country. 

In  examining  into  this  part  of  the  subject,  recourse 
must  be  had  to  other  means  of  elucidation  than  such 
conjecture,  and,  in  the  language  of  the  natives,  a  cri- 
terion is  discoverable.  This  harmless  race  have  an 
expression  for  the  sun  which  bears  but  little  resem- 
blance to  any  term  in  language  hitherto  regarded. 
Succanuk  is  their  term  for  the  luminary  that  brings 
tliein  back  their  fishing  months  with  his  presence.  In 
this  his  retirement  southwards,  the  northern  people 
say,    "Succanuk   is   gone  to  Succanunga:"  by  this 


I 


'  >^  K-i^^'^-^-m^ ^' 


INTRODUCTION'. 


13 


llOll- 


:« 


^;i 


0 


tliey  describe  all  the  lands  where  tlieir  fisheries  arc 
successful.  \ovv  through  what  source  a  synonjrnc 
for  Succariuiiga  may  be  traced  to  the  language  of 
nations  ver)  remote  from  this  truly  original  people 
may  aj)pt'in' matter  of  interesting  speculation. 

A  classical  reader,  familiar  with  the  works  of  Greek 
and  Roman  writeis,  will  recollect  that  an  epithet  for 
the  noonday  Aj)ollo,  when  clad  in  Latin  form,  is  Gry- 
na^us.  (jlrynaHis  Aj;oIIo  forms  an  adulatory  invocation 
in  the  prayer  of  Eneas,  who  was  at  once  a  priest  and 
prince  according  to  the  Phrygian  mythological  system, 
(icneral  Valiancy,  who  bestowed  much  and  very  ex- 
traordinary labour  on  the  subject  of  antiquities,  par- 
ticularly those  referable  to  eastern  origin,  has  fixed 
on  the  word  Grian,  of  Irish  or  Celtic  signification,  as 
it  may  be  received,  being  epithetically  expressive  of 
the  strongest  power  of  the  sun,  which  is  synonymous 
among  all  ancient  nations  with  the  Apollo  of  Grecian 
mythology.  To  avoid,  therefore,  invidious  reference 
as  to  intercourse  with  the  Greenlanders,  it  may  be 
fairly  admitted,  that  the  synonyme,  by  whatever  voy- 
ager to  these  parts  communicated,  is  justly  explained 
by  the  above  terms :  let  us  view  them  in  connexion : 

Succanuk — the  Sun.  Succanunga — Greenland. 

Grian — Apollo,  or  the     Grianland — Land  of  the 
Sun.  Sun. 

The  Land  of  thw  Sun,  or  Sunny-land,  as  familiarly 
may  be  said,  corresponds  with  the  simple  appellation 
which  the  natives  give  their  country.  The  adventu- 
rers who  came  in  aftertimes  to  seek  the  same  shores, 
not  probably  understanding  the  meaning  of  the  term, 


14 


INTRODUCTION. 


■      t 


h    §. 


yet  spelling  the  word  as  they  could  from  hearing  it 
often  repeated,  were  inclined  to  write  Grianland  in 
their  mode  Greenland,  which  sounds  very  nearly 
alike,  but  in  the  language  of  Denmark  has  no  refer- 
ence to  the  original,  and  hence  the  absurdity  of  the 
application  of  such  a  name  as  Greenland  to  countries 
comparatively  destitute  of  every  product  of  nature 
that  gives  a  green  luxuriance  and  vegetative  beauty 
to  more  southern  climates. 

The  brief  view  of  the  subject  thus  laid  down  will 
suffice  for  such  as  are  desirous  to  examine  the  more 
immediate  purpose  of  this  work.  Histories  of  almost 
every  explored  portion  of  the  globe  crowd  tiic  shelves 
of  libraries,  and  are  at  the  hand  of  the  hourly  reader. 
The  man,  however,  who  scans  human  nature,  who 
studies  his  connexion  with  the  correievant  parts  of 
creation,  and  who  weighs  his  destinies,  his  responsibi- 
lities, his  value  in  the  great  scale  of  being,  will  not  be 
content  with  words  alone,  how  plausibly  soever  au- 
thenticated. A  wish  to  witness  the  facts  as  grounded 
on  observation,  denies  him  quiet,  until  doubt  can  be 
excluded  by  experience.  He  tries,  travels,  studies, 
deeply  reflects,  makes  up  his  mind,  and  passes  judg- 
ment. Such  a  rule  should  be  the  guide  of  any  one 
intruding  on  public  opinion.  It  is  the  same  principle 
that  exalts  the  British  jurisprudence  above  that  of 
every  people  on  earth,  in  the  heaven-born  system  of 
the  trial  by  jury.  Every  honest  man  so  seated  is  an 
Alfred,  as  each  individual  there  forms  his  own  opinion. 

Such  reflections  actuated  the  mind  of  the  writer  of 
the  following  sheets  previous  to  his  undertaking.  The 
object   of  inquiry    appeared   highly    important.     It 


J 


4 


^1 


M 


INTRODUCTION. 


15 


seemed  also  involved  in  much  mystery ;  and  its  de- 
velopment was  viewed  as  matter  of  meritorious  pur- 
suit. A  voyage  to  Davis's  Straits  was  therefore  un- 
dertaken for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  satisfactory  in-^ 
formation  on  many  points  of  natural  history,  hitherto 
untouched,  or  which  had  not  been  sufficiently  elucida- 
ted. The  circumstances  of  the  voyage  were  of  such 
a  nature  as  left  more  for  observation  than  a  progress 
of  discovery  should  be  accompanied  with.  The  rea- 
der, however,  may  rest  assured  that  what  shall  be 
submitted  to  perusal  is  accurate,  and  such  as  many, 
enjoying  the  indulgences  of  warmer  regions,  would 
feel  little  inclination  to  witness. 


ib 


'.L 


i\ 


'flVi 


I 


I 


'1 


I 


<? 


VOYAGE    OUTWARD. 


17 


CHAPTER  I. 


THE    VOYAGE    OUTWARD. 


«» 


i 


On  Saturday,  March  Jlth,  in  the  Thomas,  of  Hull, 
Wm.  Brass,  master,  we  left  the  roadstead  at  the 
Hawk  in  the  River  Huniher,  and  at  9  a.  m.  cleared 
the  Spurn  hghts.  In  the  evening,  the  breeze  becom- 
ing fresh  at  W.  N.  W.  we  tacked  and  stood  round 
Fhimborough  Head  into  Burlington  Bay.  The 
breeze  increasing  to  strong,  we  tacked  again  from 
Burlington  Bay,  and  steered  for  the  Orkneys,  in  a 
full  breeze  from  W. 

Before  I  proceed  to  the  detail  of  matters  contained 
in  my  journal,  it  is  necessary  to  premise  a  few  re- 
marks, in  order  to  make  the  contents  of  that  record 
intelligible  to  every  reader.  In  the  course  of  a  voy- 
age, the  direction  of  the  winds,  and  their  velocities, 
are  of  primary  importance  to  be  understood;  and  the 
signs  by  which  their  change,  or  expected  commence™ 
ment  can  be  known,  form  one  of  the  main  objects  in 
the  experience  of  a  seaman.  The  question  of  "  How 
are  we  to  have  the  wind?"  is  seldom  addressed  to  a 
person  not  long  accustomed  to  the  sea.  The  aged 
coasting  sailor  prides  himself  as  much  upon  knowing 
the  influence  of  every  point  of  land,  with  regard  to 
the  wind,  as  ho  does  upon  his  knowledge  of  the  set 
of  tide :  whilst  the  mariner,  conversant  with  seas  and 

3 


?!■■ 


18 


VOYAGE    OUTWARD. 


■4. 


oceans,  where  he  has  seldom  any  land  to  guide  his 
observations,  must  look  to  the  general  indication  of 
the  sky  and  clouds  for  sure  information.  I  have  fre- 
quently observed  that  an  old  seaman,  on  turning  out 
for  his  watch,  invariably  directs  his  attention  to  see 
how  the  sky  looks :  next,  turning  to  the  compass,  he 
silently  observes  the  direction  of  the  wind.  During 
his  silence  one  may,  on  such  occasions,  evidently  no- 
tice the  operation  of  his  mind  drawing  conclusions 
from  such  observations.  Hence  appeared  the  im- 
portance of  making  a  few  remarks  on  these  matters; 
and  as  I  am  not  aware  that  any  thing  has  yet  been 
said  conclusively  on  the  subject,  I  shall  indulge  the 
presumption  that  there  is  some  degree  of  novelty  in 
what  I  am  about  to  state. 

The  great  principle  of  electricity  is  now  generally 
considered  as  the  cause  of  both  clouds  and  winds; 
for  to  these  two  subjects  I  am  inclined  to  confine  its 
operation,  though  undoubtedly  it  discharges  a  most 
active  agency  throughout  creation.  In  a  dry  atmos- 
phere it  seems  to  be  in  greatest  energy,  though  less 
observably  in  action.  In  the  formation  and  destruc- 
tion or  decomposition  of  clouds,  it  is  more  visible  in 
its  effects;  but  in  the  direction  of  the  winds,  it  pos- 
sesses a  sovereign  power  of  impulse.  The  presence 
of  electricity  in  dry  air  is  manifest  in  experiments, 
wherein  all  moisture  must  be  carefully  removed,  else 
this  celestial  agent  does  not  appear.  The  immortal 
Franklin  detected  its  presence  in  the  clouds,  and 
forced  it  to  descend,  from  that  species  or  rather  ge- 
nus of  cloud,  nimbus,  in  which  it  is  usually  concen- 
trated ;  and  its  presence,  when  in  motion,  is  familiar 


m 


m. 


;,>f«f 


m 
M 


:mf 


,!■• 


I- 


VOYAGE    OUTWARD. 


19 


m 


I 
I 


>^ 


to  every  one  experimenting  with  an  electrical  ma- 
chine, when,  as  the  cylinder  is  revolved,  a  wind  is 
sensibly  felt  if  the  hand  is  placed  near  the  cylinder. 
Tile  presence  of  this  principle  in  the  clouds  is  very 
remarkable  during  the  formation  of  the  cloud  above 
mentioned,  being  what  is  familiarly  called  the  thun- 
der cloud. 

Mr.  Howard  has  lately  laid  down  a  classification  of 
the  clouds,  by  which  this  branch  of  natural  history 
has  been  signally  simplified.  The  reader  is  requested 
to  refer  to  that  ingenious  gentleman's  publicatioQ. 
His  theory  has  been  also  copied  at  length  into  Mr. 
Forster's  book  on  Clouds,*  wherein  many  curious 
illustrations  of  this  subject  are  inserted.  As  my  ap- 
plications V.  ere  on  a  scale  of  more  than  .3,000  miles 
in  extent,  with  a  perfectly  natural  horizon  almost  per- 
petually under  observation,  I  trust  that  the  details, 
which  shall  be  as  brief  as  possible,  will  not  be  sub- 
jected to  a  charge  of  presumption  on  the  patience  of 
the  reader.  I  may  be  also  pardoned  the  expression 
of  my  own  feeling  of  their  importance  to  the  great 
concerns  of  navigation  and  trade.  And  as,  in  con- 
sequence of  such  views  of  nature,  on  general  princi- 
ples, as  1  hope  to  exhibit  in  the  progress  of  this  work, 
the  great  Atlantic  and  Northern  seas  in  general  may, 
ere  long,  become  the  theatre  of  more  frequent  com- 
merce, other  benefits  may  be  found  to  arise  from  the 
conclusions  to  be  drawn  from  these  observations. 

With  regard  then  to  clouds,  I  shall  take  the  clas- 
sical names  laid  down  by  Mr.  Howard;  and  leaving 
the  discussion  of  his  elegant  theory  in  abler  hands, 


*  Besearches  about  Atmospheric  Phenomena,  by  Thomas  Forster,  F.  L.  S 


'^me' 


I, 


;• .  t 


20 


VOYAGE    OUTWARD. 


must  beg  that  gentleman's  indulgence,  in  placing 
them  in  such  arrangement  as  I  found,  from  expe- 
rience, to  be  most  useful  in  application.  To  this 
classification,  a  concise  exposition  shall  be  added,  by 
way  of  illustration,  for  such  readers  as  may  not  have 
seen  Mr.  Howard's  exposition.  This  illustration  is 
intended  merely  to  convey  a  clear  idea  of  the  colour 
and  general  situation  of  the  clouds.  Therefore,  be- 
ginning with  the  lowest  member  of  the  classification, 
we  shall  proceed  with  the  next  in  simplicity,  and 
then  to  their  various  compounds,  pointing  out  the 
probable  agency  of  each.  Taking  nubes  then  for  the 
term  expressive  of  the  genus,  the  names  of  the  species 
arc  as  follow  : 


^n 


'^  V 


i!l 


Genus. 
Nubes. 


Species. 

Stratus Lowest  of   all   clouds.       Evening  and 

morning  ground  mist. 

Cirrus Highest  ditto.  Mares'  Tails.     Mackarel 

sky,  &.C. 

Cumulus Small  dense  cloud,  increasing  upwards, 

base  horizontal. 

Cirrostratus. . .  .  The  common  loose  vapoury  cloud,  gene- 
rally of  a  brownish  colour.  In  pro- 
file, it  represents  the  figure  of  a  tish  ; 
sometimes  a  dark  streak,  and  lying 
parallel  to  the  horizon  ;  sometimes 
descending  very  dark  at  a  sharp  or 
acute  angle.  It  is  the  most  variable 
of  all  clouds,  and  is  usually  interme- 
diate between  the  others. 

Cirrocumulus  .  .  Next  in  height  to  cirrus,  generally  white, 
in  round,  irregular,  or  diamond  patch- 
es, or  representing  small  waves  ;  the 
last  form  usually  preced«i^  a  high  wind. 


VOYAGE  OUTWARD. 


21 


rieniis.  Spnt-ios. 

^ubcs.    Cumulostratus .  .  The  previous  I'orm  oi'  nimbus,  called 

by  seamen  the  "  lanil  clouJ,"  being  at 
a  distance  like  rocks  and  mountains, 
havinsj,  acrordina;  to  its  position  '.vith 
the  s'ui,  round  and  rugged  snowy  tops, 
dark  body,  base  of  the  same  or  deop- 
blui^h  black,  horizontal  and  ragged,  or 
rirroso  ;  moves  often  against  the  wind.* 

Nimbus The    cumulostratus    discharging    rain, 

hail,  lightning,  &.c. 


II' 


■  -■0, 


1 


m 
•J 


pro- 

i 

ish  ; 

'1 

ying 
mes 

'  "  :\ 

t  or 

djie. 

nc- 

itc. 

ch- 

he 

id. 

Having  thus  briefly  enumerated  the  different  spe- 
cies  of  clouds,  a  few  observations  on  their  most  ob- 
vious uses  may  not  be  out  of  place.     Tlie  cirrus,  as- 
cending, assumes   some  modification  of  cirrostratus  ; 
and  owing  to  some  priiiciples,  probably  communicated 
from  its  auxiliary,  the  latter  puts  on  such  a  variety 
of  colours  as  it  generally  presents.     The  rainbow, 
and  also  many  other  luminous  phenomena,  appear  in 
this  medium.     Cirrostratus   is  the  store  from  which 
the  cumulus  is  collected  ;  whilst  the  latter  becomes 
by  agglomeration  the  cumidostratus.     The  cumulos- 
tratus, being  charged  with  the  electric  fluid,  changes 
to  nimbus,  which  subsequently  becomes  cirrostratus 
again.     Cirrostratus,  when  elevated  to  a  higher  and 
drier  atmosphere,  is  changed  into  the  form  of  cirrocu- 
nmlus,  in  which  thi  electric  principle  seems  to  be  less 
active  than  in  the  others.     This  beautiful  cloud  is  the 
ornament  of  summer  and  tranquil  skies,  and  is  by  the 
simple  pen  of  Bloomfield  described  as  having 

•'  the  beauteous  semblance  of  a  flock  at  rest." 

*  *'  Noctem  hiememque  ferens."' 


n 


m^M 


22 


VOYAGE  OUTWARD. 


W^ 


'     'I 
V 


When  tlie  electric  fluid  is  called  into  action,  this  cloudy 
viz.  tiie  cirrocumuhis,  if  not  previously  dissolved  in  the 
surrounding  atmosphere,  undergoes  a  rapid  change. 
Shortly  after,  the  long,  fine  flaxen  cirrus,  exhibits  its 
slender  forms,  sometimes  in  a  single  silvery  line ; 
sometimes  like  the  fabled  tresses  of  Ariadne  ;  at  other 
times,  when  crossed  by  an  ascending  or  descending 
current  of  electricity,  it  exhibits  an  elegant  represen- 
tation of  waves.  Previous  to  a  storm,  its  changes  arc 
most  rapid,  and  Its  form  often  evanescent.  At  all 
times,  it  is  considered  the  index  of  the  electric  fluid; 
and  one  accustomed  to  its  direction  can  venture  to 
predict,  with  tolerable  certainty,  the  approach  and 
dcy;ree  of  force  of  a  wind,  many  hours,  nay,  often  days, 
before  the  change  takes  place.  To  seafaring  people, 
a  knowledge  of  the  forms  and  situation  of  this  cloud 
is  essential  to  security. 

The  next  object  to  which  I  shall  invite  the  reader's 
attention,  is  an  enumeration  of  winds,  and  such  prin- 
cipally as  are  most  familiar  to  the  navigator  of  the 
Atlantic  ocean.  In  order  to  render  this  subject  more 
easily  understood,  I  shall  present  the  names  of  the 
several  winds  in  Latin,  slieltering  the  attempt  under 
respectable  authority.  They  shall  however  be  ac- 
companied with  the  familiar  synonymes  in  use  among 
nautical  men. 

The  ancients  denominated  the  winds  known  to 
them,  not  according  to  their  force,  which  should  natu- 
rally Indicate  a  proper  classification,  but  with  refe- 
rence to  some  local  circumstance,  such  as  blowing 
from  a  distant  country,  or  some  of  the  cardinal  points. 
The  present  arrangement  applies  to  the  relative  for- 


>.l 


VOYAGE  OUTWARD. 


23 


■J!;i 


>ng 


ces  of  the  several  winds,  by  which  means  it  becomes 
easy  of  universal  application. 

r  propose  therefore  to  enumerate  sv  n  genera; 
liie  tirst  five,  with  their  species,  being  arranged  with 
respect  to  their  several  velocities;  the  last  two,  with  a 
reference  to  their  peculiar  ellccts.  As  to  the  accuracy 
of  the  Latin  names,  I  may  presume  that  it  rests  on 
classic  ground.  Ovid,  in  the  tragic  tale  of  Procris,* 
has  given  authority  for  using  the  term  expressive  of 
the  first  genus ;  and  the  prince  of  Latin  verse  has, 
with  the  exception  of  the  last,  sanctioned  all  the  rest 
by  his  adoption. 

Dr.  Franklin  has,  in  his  peculiar  grandeur  of  sim- 
ple o])servation,  noted  the  progress  of  hurricane  to  be 
at  the  rate  of  100  miles  per  hour.  On  this  plain  scale, 
the  comparative  velocities  of  the  other  winds  are  cal- 
culated (reference  being  specially  had,  wherever  their 
forces  could  be  ascertained,  with  regard  to  the  motion 
of  a  ship's  way)  under  their  influence,  severally.  It 
is  matter  of  regret  that  circumstances  did  not  allow 
ine  to  check  this  calculation  by  an  anemometer. 

Subjoined  to  the  foregoing  is  a  table  giving  a  view 
of  a  ship,  according  to  her  trim  or  canvass,  in  each 
wind,  and  her  knots  under  the  influence  of  each.  Tiiis 
chiefly  refers  to  a  whale  ship,  but  may  be  applicable 
to  other  vessels.  The  table  includes  the  elfects  of 
wind  favourable,  or  the  contrarv. 


lev 

Its. 


a 


VOVAtJL  0UT\VAK1>. 


.  I 


WINDS. 


ftiuil'u'ul  Naini'> 


(icii. 


Air, 
Breeze, 


litil 


LiRht, 
Lii,'ht, 
rrrsh, 
roiiir, 


St 
J'rnsl 


Hnrii; 

Tetnnpst, 
llmricaiip, 
VVIiirlwiml, 
•'iiiiooiii, 


Kalf  111'  KiKiK  \vr  lloiir. 


7  to  8 

y 

10  iitul  iriorp 
lt>  anil  much  morf 
10  til  12  and  iiiui'u 
IJiiknowii 

Ditto 

Ditto 

Ditto 


Lntiii  N'aiiK'.i. 


Vi'liirilv 
Hour. 


ixr 


Ocn. 


/-•■phy 


riis, 


't'litnsi, 


binrans, 

l.i'iiis, 

Vdh, 

Aliens, 

(".■U'r, 

ItapiiliiH, 

\  t'lii'iiirns, 

TiMnpestas,  Riiciis, 
Jlieins,  fliipiftis, 

rroc(>il»,      (Jyriins, 
^iinouinii,     Sulliicitiis. 


<>  miles 
10  tlitto 

l.'>  ijitlu 

i*0  (liltd 
25  ditto 
tV,  ditto 
4r,  ditti. 
75  ditto 
100  ditto 
l.'iii<no\vii 
Ditto 


WINDS. 


Stiilo  orsiiii»  lu  ii  lair  Wind- 


Stall'  ol'Sirips  in  a  CDiitrary  Wiiul. 


Names  lA'  W'tmh. 


Light  air 
Lii^lit  breeze 
Strong  breezp 
Strong  breeze 
Frt-sli  gall! 

Strong  gale 


Hard  gale 

Tempest 
Hiirririine 


HatH. 


(  amass  cairicil. 


Hal.'. 


2  knots 
4 

7  to  8 
<» 
10 

lo-f- 


lO-f 


1  i  drill 


Unknown 


Full  Mlil 
Full  ii'til 
P'ull  sail 
Full  sail 
Full  sail 
i  Reefed 


topsails 


<r  Top-gallaiit  sails 

I  full 
CJose-reefed  top- 
sails  and   reefed 
courses 

Ship  laid  to,  un- 
der close -reefed 
uiaiu-topsail 

i  Ship  drifting  nn- 

l  der  bare  poles. 


t'anvii"s  cnr'ncil. 


All  sails  set 
All  sails  set 
All  sails  .set 
All  sails  set 
Top-gul.  sails  furled 

Close-rccfd  topsails 

C  Close  reef  dinain- 
/  top-sail, uudreef'd 
(*  fore-sail 

ji  .Ship  laid  to  as  be- 
\  fore.  Tops  struck 

■^aiiieas  ill  fair  wind 


Having  premised  so  mucli,  in  the  hope  that  the 
matter  will  not  be  deemed  irrelevant  to  the  main  ob- 
ject of  the  observations,  Avhich  is  the  professed  aim  of 
the  work,  particularly  as  tlicy  will  aid  in  elucidating 


V3 


H 


Xini- 


,^*1 


.jr—'i.-^u 


the 

ob- 

of 


ring 


4 


voya(;e  outward. 


id 


many  of  the  atmospheric  phenomena  In  i,iriaftoi'  lobe 
mentioned,  I  shall  proceed  very  l)ricny  indeed  with 
Ihe  Journal.  But  first  in  the  following  short  space 
hhall  say  a  word  or  two  al>out  the  Orkney  Islands. 

The  general  appearance  of  those  islands  is  that  of 
low,  flat,  rounded  hills,  with  the  exception  of  the 
western  side  of  Hoy  and  Pomona,  which  present  a  bold 
rocky  front  of  sand-stone  to  the  ocean.  The  stratifi- 
cation seldom  departs  from  iiorizontally ;  in  many  pla- 
ces consisting  of  large  flags  lying  loosely  over  each 
other.  The  soil  is  poor,  and  yields  little  corn;  the 
inhahitanls  subsisting  chiefly  on  fish.  Latterly  the 
straw  plait  manufacture  being  introduced,  employs  the 
younger  girls  :  this  is  chiefly  at  Stromness,  which  is 
the  usual  rendezvous  of  ships  proceeding  totlie  west- 
ward, or  to  the  fisheries.  Kirkwall,  the  chief  town, 
is  respectable,  and  is  remarkable  for  its  flne  cathedral. 
Though  scarcely  a  shrub  is  to  be  seen  on  Pomona ; 
it  is  said  to  have  been  once  well  wooded,  and  trunks 
of  large  trees  are  often  dug  up. 

On  the  I7th  of  April,*  after  being  about  six  weeks 
at  sea,  on  making  a  tack  towards  land,  I  had  a  distinct 


*  JOURNAL. 

Thursday,  March  13  :  thermometer  42°,  43*,  42°  :  wind  W. 
S,  W.,  strong  breeze  :  under  shelter  of  Duncansbay  Head  :  a  de- 
tached high  vork  of  reJ-brown  sandstone,  al»out  100  yards  from  the 
shore,  is  called  Johnny  Groat's  Castle  :  this  day  clear  and  dry  : 
squalls  eddying  along  the  sea. 

March  14  :  ther.  4G',  47°,  40°  :  wind  N.  W.,  almost  a  calm  : 
sky  clear  and  delightfully  serene  :  Stromness  in  sight. 

-March  15:  ther.  41°,  44°,  4f2°  :  wind  S.,  light  breeze  :  cir- 


;»^B^*f  ■"  4 


---»»* 


2G 


VOYAliU    01  TVVAFU*. 


I 


•     ^ 


view  of  West  Greenland.  A  most  dreary  ;\|»|)«'iir« 
ance  charnrtcrizos  this  part  of  that  country. 
Some  small  islands  lay  alonj;  the  coast,  between 
which  were  imbedded  l)t:ri;s  ol'  out-toppinj^  hci»;ht, 
and  in  their  peaks  and  prominences  mimicking  the 
forms  of  land.     In  the  intervals  of  snow,   the  dark 


'M 


\h 


rtis  chatii;in^  into  cirrociiuiiiliis,  riiTOslrntiis  :  wciillicr  line  :  tin 
chorcd  iit  tlie  back  of  Hip  lloliiii,  -.i  Hal  island,  at  Stromnoss. 

March  10  :  thct  U!  =  .  l.",-,  Kr  :  win«l  S  S.  VV.,  liirlit  broo/c  : 
cirrostratus  in  lonij;  dark  beds  in  llic  weslward,  tiii;;ed  red  with 
the  rays  of  the  setting;  sun. 

March  17  :  ther.  12°,  15',  Ui"  :  wind  W.,  fresh  broo/e  ; 
stratus  all  around,  probably  from  the  ocean  spray,  cirrostratiis 
radiatini?  from  the  S.  W. 

March  18  :  ther.  47°,  15*,  10=  :  wind  S  VV.  fresh  breo/.e  : 
sctjd  at  a  great  elevation.  The  wind  of  this  day  had  been  indicat' 
cd  by  the  cirrostratns  radiation  of  the  procedinaj  :  the  reader  is 
requested  to  bear  this  circumstance  in  recollection  :  partial  cir- 
rocuraulus. 

March  19:  ther.  31  =  ,  25%  .'30=  :  wind  W.  S.  W.,  stronj; 
breeze  :    cirrostratns  drifting  with  sleet  and  snow  in  the  even- 


U'-' 


% 


March  20  :  ther.  24°,  30',  25=  :  wind  N.  N.  E.,  hard  gale  : 
nimbus  discharging  large  hail  and  snow.  The  thermometer,  af- 
ter the  first  observation,  rose  to  ;iO  =  ,  and  on  the  approach  of  the 
nimbus,  suddenly  fell  to  25  =  ,  and  there  remained. 

March  21  :  ther  27  =  ,  4G  =  ,  26=  :  wind  N.  E.,  light  breeze  ; 
cirrostratns  :  cumulus  :  nimbus  occupying  half  the  welkin  in  N. 
W.  and  discharging  hail  :  land  covered  with  snow  :  weather  be- 
came unusually  fine  :  during  the  night  an  excellent  exhibition  of 
cirrus  traversing  the  sky,  pointing  from  E.  and  S.  E.  towards  W. 
and  N.  W.  :  this  evening  put  to  sea. 

March  22:  ther.  34  =  ,  36',  33=  :  wind  S.  W.  by  W.,  light 
breeze  :  scud,  drifting  from  N.  E.  :  wind  increased  to  strong 
>>recze  :  a  strong  swell  of  the  ocean  from  W.  N.  W. 


Si 


« 


f 


V()Y\(iE    OlTWMin. 


!27 


lock  put  forth  its  wriuklod  brow,  the  dip  of  (issuro 
f.ppeuriiis^  about  fifteen  degrees.  The  mountains  in 
tbe  distance  exiiibited  iii_i;l»  sliarp  peaks,  and  to  the 
rye  of  a  stranger  they  appear  tlie  most  dismal  and 
<  liillinsr  siuht  in  nature.  This  K^nd  is  north  of  Joris 
Hi' V?  and  is  sekhjm  seen. 


March  2;J  :  tlior.  .'U;*  tliroiiirhout  :  wind  W.  N.  W.,  Htrona, 
l)roc>/o  :  u'imi  of  tliis  day  was  indicated  by  tho  cirru.s  of  the  '21»t  : 
various  l)odi«'s  of  cirrostratiis,  discliari^ini;  «l«ct  and  hail  at  tiinos  : 
nca  ronlji.iies  ninniny;  very  hijfli  i'loin  tlic  W.  M.  W. 

March  ',M  :  thcr  ;5G',  ;il%  2U-  :  wind  W.  N.  W.,  hard  e;ale  ; 
laokcn  nindnis,  dischari^in'^  snow  and  ?leet  with  great  violence  ; 
^^ea  very  lii<j;h  :  nnrnerous  s;n\h  seen  :  oh^crved  the  lanis  raniir!, 
niarinus,  fiisciis,  in  i^roat  numbers,  also  ridibiindus  and  cataractes ; 
towards  evening;  more  moderate  :   sky  milky  bhic. 

March  '2r,  :  thcr.  'M]  =  ,  ACy'' ,  ^0=  :  wind  N.  W  ,  fresli  breeze  : 
cirrostratus  overcast  :  showers  of  evanescent  snow  :  moon  ap- 
pearing in  a  double  halo  ;  the  inner  circle  deep  yellow  ;  the 
outer,  with  the  iris  ring's,  very  distinct. 

lAIarch  '26:  ther.  .M",  150',  :i')°  :  wind  N.  by  E.,  strona, 
breeze  •  weather  tine  :  cumulostratus  and  cvnnulus  near  the 
liori/.on  :  an  inunense  pile  of  cumulostratus  occupying  all  the  W. 
and  S.  W.  rei^ion  :  afternoon,  a  sudden  and  violent  gale  blew  from 
that  (pjarter  during  three  hours,  attended  with  sleet  :  procellari-a 
glacialis. 

At  half  past  nine  p.  m.,  the  polar  coruscation  (aurora  borcalis) 
was  very  vivid  ;  the  crown  forming  a  portion  of  a  circle  in  the 
zenith,  curviiig  from  N.  W.  to  S.  F.  ;  the  brightest  emanation 
running  to  the  southward,  then  traversing  sideways,  with  fairy 
speed,  in  conical  spires  from  K.  N.  K.  to  \V.  S.  \V  on  an  invisible 
base,  nearly  parallel  with  the  horizon,  but  descending  from  the 
north. 

The  moon,  at  the  same  time,  shown  faintly  through  a  corona 
in  intervening  ditVuse  cirrostratus,  around  which  was  an  extensive 
halo.     Mr.  Forster  s'.dc^  the  halo  as  ordinarilv  about  4tb°  in  ra- 


•i8 


\  OYACiK    OUTWARD. 


On  the  28th  of  April,  three  natives,  the  first  I  had 
yet  seen,  came  up  with  the  ship,  and  heing  hfted  into 
a  boat,  canoes  and  all,  they  came  aboard,  and  bar- 
tered some  parts  of  their  dress  with  the  men.  After 
a  stay  of  three  hours  they  dej)arted.  They  came 
from    some     low     islands    north    of    Baal's    River. 


I 


K 


ilius  :  by  that  proportion  tlie  halo  here  observed  must  have  been 
more  than  twice  that  extent  of  radius.  The  luminous  rins; 
here  noticed  exhibited  none  of  the  iridescent  colours,  but 
was;  of  a  sickly  yellowish  white  ;  the  area  scarcely  dilTerine; 
from  the  exterior,  except  that  portion  in  which  tiie  corona  ap- 
peared. 

This  phenomenon  having  attracted  my  attention,  I  remained  on 
deck  till  raidnijjht,  and  conversing  witii  an  experienced  seaman  on 
the  subject,  I  learned  that  such  appearances  in  this  latitude  gene- 
rally preceded  very  high  wind.  The  increasing  temperature, 
noted  this  day,  was  a  further  indication  of  an  approaching  wind 
from  the  southward. 

There  was  a  dead  calm  immediately  after  the  coruscation  dis- 
appeared :    the  atmosphere  very  clear. 

March  27  :  ther.  12^',  46",  43"  :  Wind  S.  by  W.,  strong 
breeze  :  sky  overcast  with  dense,  diffuse  cirrostratus  :  sun 
in  Corona :  wind  increased  to  strong  gale  :*  procellaria  gla- 
cialis. 

March  28  :  ther.  30",  43",  3G^  :  wind  S.  by  W.,  fresh  breeze  : 
nimbus  with  snow  :  cumulostratus  in  masses. 

March  29  :  ther.  38°,  38'\  36°  :  wind  N.  W.,  strong  breeze  : 
sky  generally  clear  :  cumulostratus  changing  into  nimbus,  with 
mixed  showers  of  hail,  rain,  and  snow  :  atmosphere  unusually 
cold  to  sensation,  even  at  the  degree  marked  by  the  thermoaie- 
ter  :  ship  steering  to  S.  VV.  :  a  large  balaena  physalus  (finner) 
passed  the  ship.  Larus  canus  :  at  8  p.  m.,  the  electric  corusca- 
tions suddenly  appeared,  running  at  about  thirty  degrees  above 


i 


"  This  event  proves  tlie  observations  of  the  26th  to  be  con-ccf . 


AOYAt;E    Ol.TWAPvD. 


29 


1 


'i'heir  lower  extremities  were  remarkably  small. 
They  strike  an  objeet  at  twenty  yards  distance 
with  surpiisino*  dexterity.  The  figure  of"  one, 
when  seated  in  liis  canoe,  almost  compels  the  ima- 
gination to  look  upon  the  man  and  his  boat  as  par- 
taking of  a  common  existence,  restoring  to  some  de- 


1i 


the  horizon,  asoondina;  in  .i  perpendicular  direction  from  a  hasc  in 
u  rapid  succession  of  brassy  yellow  lUimes  from  W.  to  E.  and  soon 
di(>d  away. 

Immediately  after,  from  the  westward  lliero  slowly  extended 
upwards  to  the  zenith  ijur  faintly  marked  radii,  which  diverged 
as  they  ascended  ;  two,  more  approximating  to  each  other  and 
nearly  of  etpial  breadth  throughout.  One  only  remained,  stretch- 
ing in  a  magnificent  arch  over  the  zenith,  embracing  the  horizon 
K.  and  \V.,  and  of  a  splendour  exceedingly  faint  :  it  might,  on 
hasty  observation,  be  supposed  a  cirrus.  The  reader  is  requested 
to  bear  this  in  mind,  as  it  will  be  necessary  to  refer  to  this  phe- 
nomenon hereafter. 

March  .00:  ther.  35".  3C",  35'^  :  wind  N.  W.,  fresh  breeze, 
increasing  to  a  gale  :  cumulostratiis,  successively  advancing  with 
the  wind,  becoming  nimbus  in  its  angry  progress,  and  regularly 
discharging  hail  with  intensity  of  cold.  In  this  immense  biisin  (the 
Atlantic)  the  effects  of  wind  this  day  have  been  commensurate  to 
the  grandest  elevation  of  wave.  The  firmness  of  the  vessel  giving 
all  the  security  of  land  observation,  I  looked  on  this  terrible  scene 
with  awful  delight.  At  9i  p.  m.  the  coruscations  appeared  again 
from  N.  W.  ;  and  in  the  midst  of  the  stunning  hurly,  I  could  not 
resist  noticing  their  activity.  Imagination  would  say,  that  truly  the 
ppirit  of  the  storm  was  abroad  in  all  his  majesty.  The  account  of 
the  lights,  immediately  noted,  may  be  of  interest  to  some  of  my 
readers. 

Assuming,  as  before,  an  archwise  coruscation,  but  instead  of 
the  illucescent  radii  playing  from  a  horizontal  base  as  formerly 
observed,  the  basial  line  of  these  coruscations  ass;  nr\ed  an  angle 
from  the  horizon  of  about  fifty  degrees.     Tongues  of  brassy  hue. 


in 


i 

iL 


30 


VOYAGE    OUTWARD. 


gree  of  reality  the  fable  of  tlie  Centaur;  particularly 
when  these  poor  people  are  seen  ll\ing  along,  each 
in  his  flimsy  bark,  with  a  short  paddle  alternately 
pressed  along  the  thing  in  which  he  securely  sits,  re- 
gardless of  wave  or  wind.  The  jacket  they  wear 
is   lashed  so  as  to  prevent  the  admission   of  water, 


i ' 


at  considerable  intervals  ors^pacc,  and  bending  to  S.  W.,  touched 
their  ethereal  base  uilli  lambent  playfulness,  then,  twining  in 
spiral  convolution,  shot  rapidly  upwards,  and  spent  themselves  in 
the  more  elevated  regions  of  the  atmosphere. 

March  31  :  ther.  42^^,  4  r,  40°  :  wind  8.  by  W.,  strong  gale  : 
scud  flying  furiously  along :  in  the  course  of  this  day  the 
weather  has  been  highly  variable,  and  sometimes  rain  :  the 
change  of  wind  was  pre-indicatcd  by  the  aurora  of  the  pre- 
ceding. 

April  1  :  ther.  aS**  throughout :  wind  W.  N.  W.,  hard  gale  :  sky 
uniformly  overcast  with  cirrostratus  :  the  gale  increasing  in  fury, 
the  sea  rose  literally  mountain  high  :  procellaria  glacialis  :  moon 
in  halo  of  vivid  brightness. 

wind   W.  N.  W.,   hard  gale  : 


34' 


3G' 


cloud    beginning   to   break 


procellaria  gla- 


April  2 :  ther. 
storm  unabated  : 
cialis. 

April  3  :  ther.  42",  44°,  40"  :  wind  S.W.,  strong  gale  :  overcast 
cirrostratus  :  less  dense,  long,  dark  beds  of  the  same,  sometimes 
seen  through,  moving  slowly  from  S.  E.  :  sun  very  dimly  seen  ia 
corona:  some  rain  fell :  sea  higher,  if  possible,  than  yesterday  : 
the  zenith  clearing  a  little  in  the  ailernoon,  admitted  a  view  of 
linear,  co'iioid,  and  undulate  cirrus,  pointing  south  of  east :  cloud 
becoming  cumulescent.* 

""  Tills  iii^'.it,  as  tliP  clouds  ol  the  cin'ooiiinuUis  iortn  diifted  along,  a 
Miniiar  radiation  to  (hut  noticed  in  Journal  2Wh  iilt.  occurred.  A  stream 
of  the  electric  lluid,  coming  I'roni  S.  E.,  di'^solved  tlie  rirrocumuUis  in  its 
{irogrcs'i,  and  left  it  behind  as  a  sph^idid  white  arch  extending  across  the  sky. 
The  cirrus  of  tiii.-  aflirnoon  visibly  pointed  towards  the  (juailcr  w  hence  tUc  vu- 
ciintioH  snbscijuently  came. 


VOYAGE    OlfTWARI). 


31 


whilst  all  is  snt.  ;•  within.  Their  fishins;  tackle  and 
darts  are  so  placed  as  to  be  constantly  within  reach, 
and  safe  from  accident,  by  a  simple  fastening  of 
thongs.  Every  thing  was  exceedingly  neat :  their 
outer  dress  is  water  proof. 

The  appearance  of  the  land  to  the  southward  of 


April  4  :  thcr.  4'^ ,  34%  32'  :  wind  W.  S.  W.,  fresh  gii\c  :  the 
«lorm  begins  to  abate  :  pl<y  generall)'  clear  :  cirrus  and  nimbus  : 
larns  canus,  marinus,  tridactylus,  and  procellaria  glacialis. 

April  5  :  ther.  42%  44%  41'  :  wind  W.  N.  VV.,  fresh  breeze  : 
sky  overcast :  atmosphere  mild  :  a  meteor  descended  to  the  S.  \V. 
(it  generally  moves  towards  an  expected  wind)  :  it  was  of  small 
magnitude,  and  visible  for  about  a  second. 

April  G  :  tlior.  40',  45°,  44'  :  wind  S.  Vv.,  fresh  gale  :  over- 
cast cirrostrahis,  with  some  rain,  at  times  very  heavy  :  wind 
abating,  the  sea  becismc  more  tranquil,  nearly  altogether  so  :  slight 
ai)pearauce  of  coruscation  in  W.  N.  W.  :  it  is  remarked  that  in 
high  northern  latitudes  they  indicate  a  northerly  wind. 

April  7  :  36%  33',  34'  :  wind  W.  N.  W.,  fresh  breeze  in- 
creasing :  towards  evening  a  cumulostratus  began  to  form  in  N,  ; 
and,  as  it  became  an  intensely  dark  nimbus,  it  advanced  from  that 
])oint  with  an  unusual  brightness  in  its  rear  and  above.  This 
Ijrightness  is  considered  a  sign  of  wind  from  the  point  where  it 
appears  :  polar  lights  vivid  :  a  trainless  meteor  passed  S.  W. 

April  8  :  ther.  37',  43°,  41°  :  wind  N.,  light  breeze  :  wea- 
ther fme  ;  cirrostratus  in  deep  brown  beds  ;  had  a  settled  ap- 
pearance, and  died  away  without  changing  position  :  lights  very 
vivid,  restless,  and  playing  from  every  point  towards  the  star 
Benetnach,  as  to  a  centre  of  afflux. 

April  9  :  ther.  41%  44°,  41°  :  wind  W.  N.  W,  to  W.  S.  W., 
light  breeze  :  sky  overcast  with  light  misty  rain  :  drops  scarcely 
discernible. 

April  10  :  ther.  42°,  48°,  43°  :  wind  S.  VV.,  strong  breeze  : 
thick,  damp,  hazy  weather,  at.  times  sultry,  clearing  towards  even- 
ing :  procellaria  glacialis  numerous,  and  larus  canus. 


H 


i  »^ 


\ 


.£^:' 


..•  -.^ 


31 


VOVAUi:    Ol  TWAUD. 


Cape  Monkchese  and  about  Queen  Anne's  Cape, 
■\vliich  was  seen  by  us  on  the  1st  of  May,  is  generally 
that  of  uniform,  sharn.  anirular  eminences.  Notliin» 
but  barren  rock  constitutes  this  coast,  risino;  in  suc- 
cessive peaks,  not  mucii  elevated  above  tlie  horizon. 
Beino;  at  times  distant  not  more  than  twelve  miles,  the 


April  11  :  thor.  43',  18'  40'  :  wind  S.  W.,  iicsh  bicc/o  :  cii - 
rostiatijs  generally  iJiiTusetl,  with  heavy  rain. 

April  12  :  thor.  35°,  40  =  ,  38=  :  wind  W.,  fresh  breeze  :  at- 
mosphere dry  and  clear  :  scattered  patches  of'cirrostratus  :  heavy 
pieces  of  ice  (frajrmcnts  of  ber!j;s)  drifting  past  ;  sailing  by  a  pack 
of  ice  :  line  cirrus  pointing  from  N.  E. 

April  13  :  ther.  3G  =  ,  38%  31=  :  wind  W.  S.  W.,  fresh  gale  : 
stet.'ving  S.  by  W.  i  W.  to  avoid  the  ire  :  the  pack  seems  to  be  a 
limitiid  and  solitary  one,  as  the  i<'e  blink  (a  peculiar  brightness  iii 
the  horizon)  is  no  longer  discernible  ;  some  parallel  beds  of  cir- 
rostratus  in  profile  :  all  else  clear  :  high  land  aj)pearing  above  the 
Lorizon,  supposed  to  be  Staten  Hook  or  Cape  Farewell  :  procel- 
laria  gulosa,  and  a  specie?  of  mergus  too  distant  to  be  recognised 
in  view  :  a  pair  of  fringilla  tristis  alighted  on  the  ship,  and  after- 
wards flew  towards  east  ;  in  the  evening  passed  a  stream  of  ice  : 
passed  a  l.irge  berg  over  whose  lower  extremity  the  sea  broke, 
as  upon  a  rock  :  two  seals  seen. 

April  14  :  ther.  30°,  35°,  30°  :  wind  N.  W.,  strong  breeze  : 
light  l)rovvn  patches  of  cirrostratus  :  cleared  the  pack  :  detached 
cumulus  apparently  rnolioidess  :  the  heavy  manner  in  which  the 
procellaria  glacialis  plies  bis  wing  would  indicate  a  southerly 
wind  (at  6  p.  m.  the  atmosphere  has  just  uudeigone  a  very  re- 
markable changCj  proving  its  direct  influence  on  the  animal  sys- 
tem :  sky  dully  bright  :  light  flaky  snow  :  wind  nearly  calm)  : 
polar  lights  very  vivid,  running  from  E.  and  points  S.  of  east. 

April  lo  :  ther.  38°,  40°,  35°  :  wind  S.  b.  W.,  light  breeze  : 
Aveather  very  fine  :  procellaria  glacialis,  larus  maximus,  a  flock  of 
L.  tridictylus  :  the  weather  gall  *  seen  in  S.  E. 

"  A  reinarkaljle  cloud  of  singular  hue,  being  of  a  deep  indigo  IjIiic,  with  a  dasli 
'  nv,  which  givers  it  u  giccnisli  cast.    It  geiiftniUy  appears  embosomed  iu 


*: 


.<* 


VOYAGE    OUTWARD. 


33 


observer  has  tliem  distinctly  enough  in  view,  particu- 
larly with  the  aid  of  a  good  telescope.  Very  rarely 
did  any  ronnded  summit  appear,  and  the  extremely 
few  in  number  of  that  description  were  nearest  to  the 
shore,  and  showed  the  characteristic  sharp  fracture 
of  basalt.     Some  huts  were  also  discernible.     No  ap- 

April  If)  :  tlier.  30'  tIiroii<i;hoiit  :  wiml  S.  E.,  strong  gale  :  cir- 
rostratus  ovcrciisl  :  !^llo^v  aiiil  sloet  :  soa  streaked  with  foam  :  the 
lights,  between  10  ami  11  p.  m.  wore  exceedingly  splendid,  and 
seemed  to  make  Botietnach  a  centre,  but  moving  to  N.  E. 

April  17  :  tlicr.  '-'O"  throughout:  wind  N.  W.,  fresh  breeze  : 
light  vajjonry  rirrostratus  :  the  presence  of  cumulostratus  to  S.  E. 
indicates  land  seen  four  to  two  leagues  distant  :  this  being  danger- 
ous, stood  out  to  soa  :  proccllaria  glacialis,  larus  maximus,  balxna 
rostrata. 

April  IG  :  tlicr.  20  =  ,  20",  25°  :  wind  E.  S.  E.,  strong  breeze 
increasing  :  the  whole  of  this  day  slightly  overcast,  and  light  hard 
i-now  falling  :  circle  of  view  not  moj'e  than  half  a  mile  in  radius  : 
I',  glacialis  *  on  wing,  going  directly  north  :  L.  maximus  ami 
mate. 

April  19  :  ther.  21%  10  =  ,  15=  :  wind  E.  N.  E.,  hard  gale :  sea 
very  high  :  sky  still  overcast  with  snow  cloud  :  the  ropes  and 
sails  covered  with  ice  :  cold  intense  to  sensation  :  snowfjdls  sharp 
and  of  icy  form,  transparent  :  V.  glacialis  unusuallj  active  :  one 
L.  n^uximus  seen. 

April  20  :  ther.  10°,  8i%  11%  0=  :  wind  N.  N.  E.  to  N.  N.  W., 
fresh  gale,  varying  every  instant,  abated  lo  fresh  breeze  :  sky 
overcast  continually  with  snow  cloud  :  the  ocean  ?pray,  as  it  rises, 
congealed  into  icy  mist:  no  effect  of  freezing  ^n  nitrous,  muriatic, 
or  sulphuric  acid,  or  on  rum  :  the  heats  o*'  atmosphere  this  day 
extraordinary  at  intervals  during  the  g!>-'o. 

otlier  clouds,  occiipyini,'  a  very  siivill  sj^'sce.  Tliis  wontliPi-  gall  is  divuded  by 
seamen,  as  a  severe  wiml  generally  comic-  from  ilie  place  where  il  up])'  ar^  For 
distinction  sake,  I  bey  to  refer  to  Ide  colour  of  (iiis  cloud  for  the  expression 
" stormy  blue.' 

"  The  P.  trlacialis  is  a  sure  guide  to  the  wliule  hunters. 


I 


% 


34 


VOYAGE    OUTWARD. 


pearance  of  a  plain,  not  even  an  inch,  presented  itsell" 
in  an  extent  of  coast  of  more  than  fifty  miles  this  day  ; 
and  as  far  as  the  sight  could  ascertain  from  the  highest 
point  of  observation,  the  land  inward  seemed  to  be 
uniformly  of  the  same  conformation,  but  the  mountains 
appeared  much  higher.      From   the  depth  of  snow 


-s 


April  21:  ther.  10°,  12=',  n\  11°:  wind  N.  by  E.,  light 
breeze,  westing  towards  evening,  and  nearly  calm :  cirros- 
tratus  illuminated  by  sun-light :  the  ice  blink  in  the  horizon  in- 
dicates the  presence  of  ice  leagues  in  extent :  a  seal,  killed  this 
day  on  a  piece  of  ice,  was  there  flayed  by  the  sailors,  body 
left  behind  :  larus  eburneus  in  numbers,  and  a  few  of  proccUariH 
gulosa. 

April  22:  ther.  16°,  21°,  20°:  wind  variable  from  N.  :  over- 
cast with  cirrostratus  :  sea  level  as  a  lake  :  iceblink:  temperature 
of  air  much  increased  :  mild,  with  cirrostratus  variously  illuminat- 
ed, having  a  rich  yellow  lustre  where  it  meets  the  reflected  light 
from  the  ice  :  vast  numbers  of  larus  eburneus,  and  P.  glacialis  fol- 
lowing the  ship  :  a  pair  of  the  phoca  Grccnlandica  killed  :  moon 
for  the  first  time  seen  since  the  change,  and  surrounded  by  a  broad, 
somewhat  ovate  corona. 

April  23  :  ther.  21°,  2G°,  29°  :  wind  N.  E,,  fresh  breeze  :  cu- 
mulus in  lo^»g  train,  with  bases  pointing  southward  :  cirrostratus 
in  distance  accumulated  to  the  sight  as  if  cumulostratus,  but  is  not 
such  :  in  the  course  of  the  forenoon  sailed  amongst  several  streams 
of  ice  ;  tKis  sea  is  tailed  by  the  whalers  "  the  South  West  Coun- 
try :"  phoca  vitulina,  one  ;  P.  hispida,  two  ;  and  P.  maculata,  one, 
killed  on  the  ice  •.  in  afternoon,  some  slight  nimbus  having  formed, 
some  snow  fell :  wn-1  in  E.  by  S.  increased  to  a  gale  in  the  night, 
and  after  midnight  fell  V)  a  calm. 

April  24:  ther.  34°,  49°,  33°:  wind  S.,  strong  breeze:  at- 
mosphere filled  with  light  milkj  haze  :  patches  of  brown  cirrostra- 
tus ;  this  sea  lies  east  of  the  entraioce  to  Hudson's  Bay  :  a  heavy 
swell  from  the  S.  E. 

April  25  :  ther.  33',  descending  to  I9f :  wind  N.  N.  E.,  strong 


^' 


VOYAGE    OUTWARD. 


35 


with  which  those  rocks  seemed  to  be  covered,  the  late 
winter  must  have  been  very  severe.  Queen  Anne's 
Cape  is  an  island  advancing  very  forward,  and  forms 
a  common  wing  to  two  fine  adjacent  bays.  The  land 
northward  of  this  Cape  is  not  nearly  so  elevated  as 
that  above  mentioned. 


gale :  snow  falling  thick,  light  and  soft :  fiicus  palmatus  drifted 
past ;  many  birds  around :  three  small  islands  seen,  and  rocks 
over  which  the  sea  broke  with  fury  :  the  fucus  warred  the  people 
of  this  danger  :  the  atmosphere  so  dense  with  cloud  as  to  prevent 
a  view  of  land  :  at  noon  an  obseivatiou  being  taken  lat.  64'^  24'  N. 
proved  the  islands  seen  to  be  to  the  northward  of  Baal's  River 
mouth,  a  most  dangerous  coast,  as  a  great  indraught  is  known 
about  the  entrance  to  that  river,  and  against  which  mariners  are 
constantly  cautioned  :*  the  islands  seen  lay  N.  E.  of  the 
sunken  rock  ;  the  snow  fell  in  increased  quantity,  and  of 
singular  shape,  thin,  pellucid,  icy;  generally  from  a  centre,  ■■■■ 
six  radii  extend  themselves  ;  the  adjoined  is  an  accurate  E^^ 

April  26  :  ther.  18°,  20°,  23°  :  wind  N.  N.  E.,  light  breeze  : 
rirrostratus  in  loose  masses  :  many  species  of  larus  :  a  shoal  of 
baltrna  physalus  passed  in  view  ;  some  of  very  great  length  :  after- 
noon remarkably  fine  :  land  at  Baal's  River  seen  :  very  lofty 
peaked  summits  covered  with  snow  :  lat.  by  observation  64°  14'  N. 

April  27  :  thcr.  23°,  30°,  28°  :  wind  N.  E.,  fresh  breeze  :  the 
wind  unfavourable  for  a  passage  :  the  high  snowy  peaks  of  Green- 
land in  view  about  forty  miles  distant :  beautiful  undulate  and 
comoid  cirrus  in  the  zenith  :  cirrostratus  lower,  and  cumulus 
in  the  horizon  scattered  amongst  a  milky  stratus  :  cumulostratus 
in  N.  W.  indicates  wind :  cirrostratus  lying  far  below  the 
lofty  summits  of  the  mountains :  water  lying  on  the  ship's  deck 


^iJ 


*  It  is  thought  the  "  London)"  a  whale  ship,  was  lost  somewhere  about  this 
dreadful  coast. 


if 


?*" 


./? 


A 


I  ^    ■ 


36 


VOYAGE    OLTWAKP. 


On  tlie  6tli  oC  May  we  ])asse(l  Keel"  Koll  at 
one  p.  m.  The  latitude  of  this  island  seems  not 
to  be  accurately  laid  down  upon  the  chart,  which 
is  serious,  as  it  is  the  great  beacon  for  the  whale 
ships  going  to  the  northward.  The  upper  strata  of  the 
rock  of  Reef  Koll  bear  the  appearance  of  basalt  deep- 


and  no  appearance  of  freezing  :    colynibiis  troile  seen  :    lat.  ob. 
64°23'N. 

April  28  :  ther.  27^,  ?.0',  27°,  winil  N.  by  W  ,  light  breeze  ; 
various  modifications  of  cirrostratus,  heavy,  still,  and  dark  ;  land 
distant  ten  leagues,  and  some  i.slands  with  low  conic  tops.  The 
settin;^  sun  flung  his  radii  from  an  abrupt  collection  of  cirrostratus, 
the  field  beins:  richest  yellow  :  cumulus  mclininjx  the  sununit  to 
N.  E.  :  moon  surrounded  with  halo  :  some  porUons  of  iridescence 
visible  :  trichecus  ronmarus  seen  ;  hit.  Gl^  -ll'. 

April  29  :  ther.  27"  throu;i;hout ;  wind  M.  E.,  strong  breeze  : 
cirrostratus  overcast,  (lischarj;;iug  small  soft  snow  :  colymbus  troile 
and  anas  mollisiinm  numerous. 

April  30  :  ther.  lO"^,  22^,  10''  :  wind  variable  about  N.  :  strong 
tide  stream  :  loose  ice  much  worn  ;  cirrostratus  :  lat.  observed 
6r  44'  N. 

May  1  :  ther.  26°,  28°,  2G"  :  wind  S.  E.,  light  breeze  ;  dif- 
fuse cirrostratus  covers  the  welkin  :  ice  blink  is  observable  to- 
wards N.  W.  :  air  temperate  and  pleasant:  numerous  trains  of 
colymbus  troile:  some  snow:  the  ai..iosphere  having  cleared, 
the  land  to  the  southward  of  Cape  Monkchese  came  iii  view  : 
there  was  a  constant  view  of  the  land  all  this  day  ;  at  8  p.  m. 
passed  Queen  Anne's  Cape  :  meridian  observation  gave  lat.  GO* 
5G'  N.  Sheets  of  ice,  of  recent  congciation,  lay  around  the  ship 
in  her  course  during  this  afternoon,  composed  of  pieces  six  or 
eight  inches  over,  nearly  circular,  the  interstices  being  filled  up 
with  similar  small  ones  :  the  wind  always  fell  as  the  ship  came  up 
with  those  sheets. 

May  2:  ther.  19°,  22°,   10=  :    wind  N.   E.,   strong  breeze; 
this  wind  being  contrary,  the  ship  continued  tacking  off  and  on  bo- 


■% 


"^X 


ft'. 


VOVAC.E    OtJTWAUD. 


37 


ly  tinged  uitli  iron  :  lower  down  it  deepens  to  s^reen- 
isli  blue,  with  an  irregularity,  but  sliai-pnes.s  of  frac- 
ture, like  that  of  the  rock,  clink  basalt,  on  which 
stands  the  castle  of  Edinburgh. 

The  island  of  Disko,  called  by  the  natives  Duskee, 
is  visible  from  Reef  Koll.  At  a  distance  of  twenty 
miles  it  seemed  not  far  remote.     It  is  table  land,  the 


fore  the  land  just  N,  of  (,|iiooii  Anne's  Caj)e  :  tlio  cold  intense  : 
vast  streams  of  ice  sometimes  in  sit^lit  :  since  noon  the  woidher 
became  excessively  cloudy  :  sea,  rudely  Ingli,  covered  the  deck 
witli  foam,  which  imnicdiatoly  became  ice,  to  the  threat  annoyance 
of  the  sailors  :  wind  at  times  violent  :  masses  of  ice  covering  tlie 
sea  ;  tlie  pieces  of  young  ice  mucli  more  minute  than  those  ob- 
served the  preceding;  day  :  a  few  of  P.  glacialis  seen. 


May  3  :  ther.  15  = 


1  <'  ■ 
1 1.) 


If)'  :  wind  N.  E.,  fresh  breeze  in- 


creasin*^  :  shij)  standinsr  oil"  and  on  by  land  :  the  dip  of  the  rock 
hereabouts  seems  to  he  about  an  ansi'lo  of  GO*  N.  and  S.  :  no  birds 
seen  :  in  the  latter  pari,  continual  snow  shower,  with  sharpest 
cold  :  the  wind  continued  in  the  same  j»oint  a  strong  gale  all  the 
day  :  lat,  obs.  GG^  38'  North. 

May  4  :  ther.  10%  12  =  ,  13=  :  wind  N.  E.,  strong  breeze  : 
the  cold  increased  this  day  to  a  distressing  degree.  The  Wild 
Islands,  with  numerous  rocks  near  them,  both  not  far  distant  from 
the  coast,  came  into  view  :  the  fracture  of  the  rock  appeared  very 
sharp  :  the  colour  and  smoothness  near  the  water  gave  it  a  re- 
semblance to  greenstone  :  numerous  flocks  of  the  anas  mollissima, 
colymbus  troile,  and  of  the  genus  larns  around  in  every  direction  : 
much  scattered  ice  :  the  atmosphere  generally  very  clear. 

May  5  :  ther.  10=,  22*,  18°  :  wind  S.  E.,  fresh  i)reeze  :  ship 
standing  in  close  with  the  land,  which  no  longer  presented  the  an- 
gular prominences  of  the  lands  more  to  the  southward  :  this  lies 
low  with  rounded  summits,  but  no  appearance  of  plain  :  after 
passing  through  streams  of  ice,  and  by  bergs  of  the  most  fantastic 
forms,  the  ship  was  made  fast  to  a  berg,  at  a  short  distance  from 
the  shore,  in  about  ten  fathoms  water  :    saw  this  day  a  solitary  ra- 


y 


/■ 


iU 


VOYAOE    OUTWARD. 


interior  parts  more  elevated  than  the  southern  side, 
and  scarcely  swells  above  a  plane.  On  the  7th  of 
May,  every  part,  but  the  steep  faces  of  the  rock,  was 
covered  with  snow,  which  also  lay  upon  the  debris  of 
the  mountain  :  the  parts  however  next  the  water  were 
bare  of  snow.  From  the  great  distance  at  which  it 
first  becomes  visible  above  the  horzon,  this  island 
must  be  more  than  a  mile  in  perpendicular  height. 
The  face  of  the  rock  is  torn  in  channels  for  the  dis- 
charge of  the  dissolved  snow,  which,  as  they  grow 
narrower  in  their  descent,  give  the  spaces  between 
the  appearance  of  si'.ipendous  pyramids,  a  resem- 
blance which  is  much  heightened  by  the  stratification 
exhibiting  horizontal  and  parallel  fissure,  similar  to 
regular  building.  The  rock  is  basaltic,  but  not  of 
that  regular  form  which  occurs  in  the  Giants'  Cause- 


ven,  great  numbers  of  Eider  ducks,  and  some  seals  ;  the  latter 
being  remarkably  cautious  of  observation  :  tiie  state  of  cloud  was 
uniformly  haze  :  the  tide  here  is  amazingly  rapid  :  islands  around  ; 
these  are  the  Wild  Islands. 

May  6  :  ther.  17  =  ,  36',  21=  :  wind  S.,  fresh  breeze  :  ship 
cast  oft'  from  the  berg,  and  proceeding  to  the  northward  :  sounding 
near  the  land  ten  fathoms  :  twenty-one  ships  in  sight  :  this  day 
heard  of  the  melancholy  loss  of  the  London  with  all  her  crew  ;  a 
light  stratus  is  the  only  cloud  in  view  :  atmosphere  agreeably 
mild  :  immense  flocks  of  ducks  on  wing  ;  hereabouts  is  their  fa< 
vourite  haunt  for  rearing  their  young.  About  8  p.  m.  passed  the 
western  islands,  which  lie  low  and  very  flat,  much  inhabited  by  the 
natives  :  Disko  in  sight,  appearing  high  above  the  horizon  :  saw 
flocks  of  colymbus  g-ylle,  also  a  raven  :  immense  numbers  of  pro- 
eellaria  glacialis  making  rapid  flight  to  the  north-westward. 

May  7  :  ther.  25',  30%  25'  :  wind  S.  E.,  strong  breeze. 


■7' 


VOYAGE    OUTWARD. 


39 


way.      Its   height   is  sixty  feet.      Tlierc   are   parts 
however  where  the  stratification  is  much  more  regular. 
Tliese  remarks  chiefly  regard  the  south  side  about 
Fortune  Bay,  which  seems  to  he  that  part  of  this 
island  whicli  has  been  least  allected  by  that  awful 
convulsion  which  at  some  remote  period  denudated 
and  destroyed  this  [mrtion  of  the  globe.     Probably 
the  ruin  that  came  upon  these  countries  moved,  in  its 
terrible  projrrcss,    from  tlie    north-westward  ;     and, 
having  forced  a  passage  through  the  Waygat  Strait, 
swept  round  through  the  southeast  bay,  and  so  spared 
Disko.     In  support  of  such  conjecture,  it  may  be  ad- 
vanced, that  Hare  Island,  lying  nearly  north  of  Disko, 
ft  the  entrance  to  Wavffat  Sound,  is  low  and  flat,  as 
it  were  the  base  of  a  mountain  whose  summit  had 
been   torn   away.       Tiie   contiguous    point  of  Disko 
shelves  into  the  sea,  as  if  havina;  suffered  from  the 
same  cause  :   whilst  that  side  of  Disko  that  overlooks 
the  Waygat  consists  of  lofty  peaks,  behind  which  there 
lie   deep  valleys,   where  the  torrent  rioted,  having 
failed  to  carry  away  the  more  elevated  parts.    More- 
over,  that  part  of  Disko   called   Flat   Foot  Shore, 
which  lies  over  against  Makkely  Onit,  has  evidently 
sulfered  durinsc  the  same  devastation.     Neither  would 
that  portion  of  the  island  called  New  and  Old  Lievely 
have  survived  the  wreck,  were  it  not  for  the  strong- 
resistance  made  by  that  part  which  is  known  by  the 
name  of  the  Black  Land.      The  rock  of  Lievely,  now 
so  dangerous   to   navigators,   which  is   bare   at  low 
water  spring  tides,  and  which  is  nothing  but  the  re- 
mains of  some  part  of  the  mountain,  is  a  further  proof 
of  the  justice  of  the  above  assertion.     The  existence 


y 


\\\ 


n 


A 


ir^ 


10 


\OV\<iE    OLTWAKI*. 


«  I- 


of  Disko  i>a),  Portmio  V>;)\,  Love  Hay,  and  tlu;  other 
recesses  iti  the  hosoin  oCthis  remarkaMe  rock,  owe  tlieir 
existence  to  the  violence  of  the  Hood  which,  boihnt;'  uttht; 
resistance  opposed  to  it  on  the  nortli  side,  rushed  over 
tlie  hif^her  lands  to  the  southward,  and  there  poiuinc; 
onward,  in  its  ra<;e  hollowed  out  those  seveial  hiiys, 
and  mectin;:;-  with  tjjc  other  contciidiMi;-  currents  coin- 
in;^  thronj^h  the  Waygat,  and  down  the  Straits,  com- 
pleted the  work  of  destruction,  and  cdlbctcd  the  forma- 
tion ofSoutli  East  Bav. 


\i 


r 


J 


f 


i 


148 


41 


Ma 


I 


CHAPTER  II. 

OF  THE  STATE  OF  GREENLAND,  AS  INSULAR,  OR 
CONTINENTAL. 


I        I 


V 


151 


M 


i 


03 


Having  conducted  the  reader  thus  far  along  this 
dreary  coast,  and  this  part  of  the  subject  being  ap- 
propriate to  our  purpose,  I  shall  here  beg  leave  to 
take  into  consideration  the  actual  state  of  the  coun- 
tries called  Greenland  ;  chiefly  with  a  view  to  inquire 
whether  that  state  be  insular  or  continental. 

Spitzbergen,  or  New  or  East  Greenland,  has  been 
already  determined  by  Lord  Mulgrave  to  be  an  island. 
So  far  the  necessity  is  removed  of  alluding  further  to 
that  portion  of  these  lands.  The  whale  fisheries,  as 
they  are  called,  when  spoken  of  as  the  Greenland 
fisheries,  are  always  carried  on  to  the  westward  of 
Spitzbergen,  and  usually  so  that  the  vessels  in  that 
trade  often  have  a  view  of  some  part  of  that  island  ia 
the  course  of  the  season.  Westward  of  the  fishing 
ground,  the  perpetual  ice  presents  an  insurmountable 
barrier  to  any  attempt  to  explore  the  eastern  coast  of 
West  or  Old  Greenland  above  a  certain  degree,  vthere 
Herjolf's  Ness,  in  the  sixty-third  degree,  forms  a  bold 
round  promontory.  It  is  not  recorded  that  any  na- 
vigator has  penetrated  further  north  than  this  point 
on  the  eastern  side,  though  some  charts  exhibit  inlets 
bearing  Dutch  or  Danish  names  somewhat  higher  up. 
We  mav,  therefore,  fairly  assume   it   as  a  fact,  that 

6 


1 


ya 


., 


i 


42 


STATE  OF  GREENLAND, 


Greenland  on  the  eastern  side  from  Herjolfs  Ness  to 
the  pole  is  decidedly  unexplored,  and  the  reports  of 
experienced  seamen  arc  positive  in  expressing  the  im- 
possibility of  coming  within  many  degrees  of  the  sup- 
posed line  of  coast  from  the  continual  presence  of  ice; 
and  that  the  ice  which  is  carried  to  the  southward 
from  the  Greenland  fishing  grounds  is  always  limited 
to  a  certain  meridian,  westward  of  which  it  has  been 
never  known  to  break  up.  Eastward  of  this  parallel 
they  have  at  times  penetrated  beyond  the  eighty- 
fourth  degree. 

South  and  westward  of  Herjoirs  Ness  is  Skaga- 
fiord,  a  sound,  the  termination  of  which  was  never  as- 
certained; but  from  its  apparent  direction,  it  is  thought 
to  have  a  communication  with  Makkely  Onit  in  South- 
East  Bay,  at  Disko. 

Between  Herjolf's  Ness  and  Staten  Hook  there 
were  many  more  inlets  inhabited  in  former  times. 
Whether  these  inlets  may  not  have  a  leading  into  the 
preceding  communication,  must  not  be  looked  upon  as 
at  variance  with  probability. 

No  one  now  will  doubt  that  Frobisher's  Straits 
penetrate  the  whole  of  southern  Greenland,  or  rather 
open  into  some  vast  internal  sea,  whence  the  ice  is 
annually  carried  westward,  so  as  to  obstruct  the  en- 
trance to  those  parts  from  the  aide  of  Hudson's  Bay. 

Staten  Hook,  also  the  most  southern  extremity  of 
Greenland,  and  Cape  Farewell,  the  south-western  ex- 
tremity, have  been  both  determined  to  be  islands,  be- 
tween which  there  lies  an  immense  bay,  crowded  with 
islands.     The  bottom  of  this,  never  having  been  yd 


^   . 


I 


J^  ' 


li 


AS   INSULAR,  OR  CONTINENTAL. 


43 


/^ 


explored,  may  be  supposed  to  have  many  inlets  branch- 
ing into  Frobisher's  Straits. 

Let  us  turn  our  attention  to  Baal's  River,  which  is 
rather  a  gulf  penetrating  Greenland  to  the  N.  E.  The 
extremity  of  this  water  lias  not  been  as  yet  laid  down. 
It  is  supposed  to  extend  to  Disko  by  some  inlet  lead- 
ing into  South-East  Bay.  In  its  length  it  is  impossi- 
ble to  deny  but  it  may  have  communication  with  Skaga- 
fiord,  and  the  inland  waters  in  Frobisher's  Straits. 

Whether  South  Bay  is  connected  with  Baal's  River 
is  not  easy  to  assert,  as  there  is  no  datum  for  such  an 
assertion. 

Makkely  Onit  in  South-East  Bay  has  been  always 
allowed  as  running  into  a  water,  which,  if  (rec  from 
ice,  would  j  ermit  a  passage  into  the  northern  Atlantic. 

North  of  Makkely  Onit  are  numerous  passages 
opening  into  internal  seas  in  the  northern  parts  of 
Greenland,  sonie  of  which  have  been  penetrated  by 
the  boats  of  the  whale  hunters,  the  men  of  which,  on 
their  return,  invariably  reported  that  they  had  ob- 
served fair,  open  seas  before  them  after  they  had  gone 
a  very  little  way. 

In  Jacob's  Bay  there  is  one  very  remarkable  pas- 
sage of  similar  description  ;  so  also  one,  if  not  more, 
in  North-East  Bay;  and  proceeding  further  north, 
the  numerous  sounds  up  to  the  Women's  Islands  and 
forward  to  the  Devil's  Thumb,  an  isolated  natural 
column,  in  74"  ,^)3'  north  latitude,  various  openings 
present  themselves,  which,  no  doubt,  lead  to  so  ujany 
ways  of  traversing  this  Arctic  Archipelago. 

A  few  circumstances  more  will  materially  assist  in 
this  inquiry.     The  whale  hunters  are  unanimously  of 


\  » 


,i 


--*.%**..  .'-'iL. 


4 


44 


STATU  OF  GREENLAND. 


opinion  that  Greenland  consists  entirely  of  islands ; 
"  for,"  say  they,  "  wherever  chance  or  inclination  led 
us,  on  almost  any  part  of  the  coast,  we  saw  nothing 
to  prevent  us  from  sailing  as  far  inwards  as  we  liked." 
The  habits  of  the  whale,  who  is  observed  always  run- 
ning for  some  one  or  other  of  those  passages,  and 
some,  when  stricken,  dragging  the  boats  so  far  that 
the  people  witnessed  open  clear  water  to  a  boundless 
extent,  are  in  a  great  degree  confirmatory  evidence 
of  the  fact.  But  one  circumstance,  not  the  least 
curious  in  natural  history,  is,  that  a  whale,  struck  by  a 
man  at  Greenland,  i.  e.  at  Spitzbergen,  escaped,  and 
was  in  a  short  time  after  killed,  and  taken  by  a  rela- 
tive of  the  same  man,  who  was  then  at  Davis's  Straits. 
This  curious  fact  was  determined  by  the  harpoon, 
bearing  the  mark  of  the  former,  being  found  in  the 
body  of  the  animal  when  taken. 

The  north-east  coast  of  Greenland,  therefore,  be- 
ing unexplored,  and  the  probable  intersection  of  its 
south-eastern,  southern,  western,  and  north-western 
parts,  by  navigable  waters  being  adduced,  besides 
the  other  circumstances,  in  aid,  it  may,  I  presume, 
be  inferred,  that  the  state  of  Greenland  is  not  con- 
tinental but  insular.  But  whether  the  research  will 
be  ever  established  by  future  proofs  of  more  de- 
cisive character,  or  whether  any  circumstances  will 
warrant  the  hazard,  must  be  left  for  time  to  de- 
termine. 


f 


4;> 


1  *i 

■■  i 


CHAPTER  III. 


1) 


OF    THE    NATIVES    OF    GREENLAND. 


The  descr'-  'an  of  savage  life  Is  nearly  alike  appli- 
cable aim'  every  portion  c  '  i,  nkind  placed  below 
a  certain  degree  of  refinement.  The  necessary  moans 
to  prolong  life  are  so  varied  by  chance,  convenience, 
or  choice,  in  different  nations,  that  what  is  familiarly 
called  comfort  becomes  invested  with  a  thousand 
meanings  when  used  as  descriptive  of  comparative 
happiness.  The  poor  Greenlander,  feasting  on  his 
raw  food,  is  as  truly  happy  in  such  luxury  as  the 
citizen  of  a  more  indulgent  climate  who  is  uneasy  in 
his  armed  chair  until  he  has  the  delight  of  gloting 
over  his  pudding,  a  severith  dish  at  his  usual  dinner. 
In  the  humble,  yet  happy,  people  that  are  found  iii 
the  high  northern  latitudes,  and  are  generally  known 
by  the  name  of  the  Esquimcaux,  more  of  that  spirit  of 
contentment,  which  is  the  genuine  offspiing  of  neces- 
sity, is  discernible  than  probably  in  any  other  class  of 
mankind  whatsoever. 

It  is  not  the  material  of  satiety  that  constitutes 
what  is  generally  estimated  as  domestic  comfort.  So 
far  as  the  mere  necessaries  of  life  are  considered  in 
relation  to  this,  the  Palais  Royal  is  perhaps  as  scanty 
as  the  hut  of  the  Esquimeaux.  The  Tartar  who  be- 
strides his  dinner,  which,  to  save  time  and  cookery,  is 


'  I 


ii 


1 1 


u 


40 


NATIVES  OF    GUi:CNL.\M>. 


placed  within  liis  saddle  skirts,  looks  to  an  enjoyment 
of  relish  equally  fine  to  his  taste  as  tlie  double  repast 
of  turtle  is  to  tlie  Liverpo.'  mcrcliant.  Embrowned 
in  his  dreary  retreat,  the  Greenlander  feels  no  in- 
convenience, unless  the  accidental  severity  of  the 
weather  forbid  his  accustomed  scal-!iUnting; ;  and 
should  tliis  blcssinir,  with  th^  other  casualties  of  his 
better  fortimc,  come  opportunely  and  in  plenty,  it  may 
be  very  truly  asserted,  that  he  envies  not  the  lot  of 
any  fellow  mortal. 

The  influence  of  climate  has  been  frequently  re- 
ferred to  as  a  source  of  those  distinctions  that  mark 
the  various  tribes  of  mankind.  No  person  in  the  pre- 
sent period  will  venture,  one  would  suppose,  to  pro- 
duce another  Adam  as  the  progenitor  from  whom  the 
coppery  savage  of  America  would  claim  a  distinct 
descent,  rather  than  attribute  his  singular  complexion 
and  warlike  character  to  the  influence  of  local  cir- 
cumstances. The  was  •  and  hardships  which  liis 
forefatheis  have  known,  ..nd  the  severe  but  necessary 
exertions  to  overcome  those  difficulties,  must  have 
produced  strong  and  permanent  constitutional  effects, 
growing  more  into  character  by  succeeding  years,  and 
on  its  transmission  to  posterity  always  increased.  As 
an  exposition  of  this  principle,  the  diflferencc  of  man- 
ners already  between  the  United  States'  American 
and  his  British  predecessors,  has  become  very  strongly 
marked ;  and  little  doubt  can  be  entertained  but  that 
in  the  progress  of  several  centuries  the  North  Ameri- 
can colonist  will  be  as  remote  in  habits  and  general 
character  from  the  European  a&  both  at  present  stand 
in  geographical  situation. 


M      "^l 


NATIVES  OF  r,Rr.F,NLAM».  1/ 

The  vast  population  of  the  northern  regions  of  the 
earth,  has  heen  long  a  matter  of  surprise.  The  de- 
struction of  the  eastern  empires,  China,  for  instance, 
and  that  of  Iiidia,  from  the  irruption  of  tlic  Tartar 
liordes,  are  memorable  proofs  of  the  population  of  the 
North  having  been  in  early  times  amazingly  great. 
The  ruin  of  the  Roman  empire  followed  from  the  same 
cause  ;  and,  in  a  later  period,  the  world  lias  witnessed 
the  annihilation  of  one  of  the  most  warlike  armies 
that  ever  was  known,  by  the  descendants  of  those 
very  Tartars. 

There  may  be  assumed  a  line  embracing  the  globe 
to  be  considered  as  an  equator  of  civilization,  towards 
which,  as  mar.  approximates,  his  faculties  are  ob- 
served to  be  more  perfectly  developed ;  whilst  on  the 
other  hand,  receding  from  this  etjuator,  some  of  the 
higher  and  more  beautiful  portions  of  human  charac- 
ter die  away.  Ancient  Greece  would  appear  to  be 
traversed  by  this  line.  Here  the  finest  specimens  of 
man  in  full  possession  of  his  faculties,  in  refinement  of 
manners,  language,  and  the  arts,  have  existed ;  and 
if  the  moderns  have  surpassed  the  inhabitants  of  an- 
cient Greece  in  aught,  they  have  had  the  lights  of 
the  ancients  to  direct  them.  The  Divine  wisdom  dis- 
played in  the  New  Testament  is  another  splendid 
,proof  of  the  truth  of  the  position  above  assumed.  It 
appeared  among  mankind  diffusing  benevolence  and 
peace  to  all  the  nations  of  the  earth  from  a  spot  with- 
in the  limits   aid  down. 

This  line,  however,  is  not  always  unbroken,  but  is 
subject  to  variations  arising  from  localities,  which 
must  ever  exercise  a  predominant  influence  over  man- 


i). 


Hi 


ill 


n 


.¥  *• 


Hv. 


18 


VATIVKS    or    tlUKKNLAM). 


kind.  VV  c  may  also  notice  lliat  it  is  not  at  variance 
with  the  genera!  laws  of  nature  that  diirerences  may 
arise  subject  to  sucli  inliuence.  Tlie  line  by  whicli 
ibe  mariner's  needle  is  directed  to  the  north  is  not 
always  steadily  noted  by  the  magnet.  The  variation 
of  the  compass,  the  irres^ular  motions  of  the  needle, 
sometimes  in  tlic  vicinity  of  mountains,  and  often 
whcie  the  land  is  \ei'y  little  elevated,  are  evidence 
diat  circumstances  will  cause  a  deviation  from  a  uni- 
versally established  rule.  Perhajjs  it  is  to  some  un- 
seen cause  that  the  f^reat  diversity  of  human  charac- 
ter is  to  be  attributed  ;  and  some  persons  will  insist 
that  half  the  happiness  of  life  depends  upon  that  very 
diversity. 

Situation  has  a  surprising  elFect  also  on  the  human 
constitution  and  character.  The  inhabitant  of  the 
mountain  differs  essentially  from  the  inhabitant  of  the 
plain ;  their  pursuits  and  passions  are  widely  dif- 
ferent. The  one  is  all  energy,  activity,  and  simpli- 
city;  the  other  comparatively  gross,  plodding,  and 
inactive.  The  mountaineer,  striding  over  his  iiills,  is 
loused  to  action  by  the  gust  that  shakes  the  oak  above 
his  slumber ;  a  light  meal  fits  him  for  the  toils  of  hardy 
life;  and  in  the  quick  ardent  glance,  and  sinewy  step, 
are  evolved  tliose  energies  derived  to  him  from  his 
situation,  and  which  he  fancies  have  descended  to  him 
from  his  sire.  Rarely,  however,  is  such  a  situation 
the  nursery  of  science.  It  is  in  the  champaign 
country  that  the  historian  will  find  the  origin  of  all 
tliose  arts  by  which  modern  society  is  now  so  much 
improved. 

The  early  dispersion   of  mankind  could  not  have 


NATIVES    OF    GREENLAND. 


49 


i 


been  attended  with  those  remarkable  effects  all  at 
once.  Centuries  must  have  passed  before  the  various 
ramifications  could  drop  into  separate  nations;  and 
climate,  situation,  and  habits  must  have  exercised  their 
powers  long  before  national  distinctions  could  be  re- 
cognised. The  tide  of  population  descending  into 
the  more  temperate  regions,  spread  over  the  limits 
of  Europe,  and  filled  it  with  a  race  of  men  who  were 
equally  removed  from  the  enervating  softness  of 
Asiatic  climate,  and  the  more  severe  and  chilling  in- 
fluence of  frost.  On  this  point  rests  the  main  dis- 
tinction. 

Heat,  as  has  been  before  observed,  when  in  excess, 
produces  effects  similar  to  those  of  excessive  cold. 
Hence,  as  population  is  traced  north  or  south  from  a 
certain  assumed  line,  the  high,  august  forehead,  the 
erect  figure,  and  calm  majestic  deportment,  recede 
and  dwindle.  The  African  exhibits  the  organs  of 
sense  largely  developed — patulous  nostrils,  large  lips 
and  mouth,  prominent  eyes — all  proportionally  in- 
creased; whilst,  in  the  same  degree,  the  internal 
organs  of  the  mind  become  diminished,  until  the 
character  is  scarcely  above  that  of  idiocy.  The  so- 
cial affections  are,  under  such  circumstances,  ex- 
tremely weak,  and  consequently  the  progress  of 
civilization  is  visibly  embarrassed.  But  as  the  cold 
of  northern  regions  can  be  mitigated  by  artificial 
means,  the  situation  of  the  Laplander  or  Samoeide 
is  consequently  less  in  extreme  than  that  of  the  in- 
habitant of  the  torrid  zone,  who  is  perpetually  ej^ 
posed  to  a  burning  sun.  In  the  manners  and  tempers 
of  both  thero  is   a   manifest   distinction.     Ferocious, 

7 


i 


!,  ,1 


•M 


•5f*"* 


;/.■ 


'^ 


:>o 


NATIVES    OF    (JRF.KNLANU. 


vengeful,  and  rapacious,  the  African  will  allow  no- 
thing to  thwart  his  resistless  passion ;  whilst  on  the 
contrary  the  Arctic  Tartar,  hunible  and  simple,  is 
content  with  his  dreary  wastes  and  precarious  suh- 
bistcnce,  seldom  raising  his  mind  to  the  attractions  of 
revolution. 

The  early  discoverers  of  Greenland  were  surprised 
to  meet  with  a  people  already  in  possession  of  those 
countries.  They  described  them  as  diminutive  in 
person,  dressed  in  skins,  and  moving  about  in  little 
boats  covered  also  with  skins.  They  are  represent- 
ed as  not  having  ships;  and  yet  subsequent  adven- 
turers from  Europe  met  tribes  of  this  same  people 
both  in  Newfoundland  and  the  waters  north  of  that 
place,  and  also  in  Greenland. 

That  this  description  exactly  suits  the  natives  of 
Greenland  at  the  present  day  will  not  be  disputed  ; 
but  it  must  appear  singular,  that  a  people  confessedly 
aboriginal  in  those  inhospitable  regions,  should,  after 
a  lapse  of  nearly  two  thousand  years,  be  found  the 
same  in  every  respect  at  the  present  day,  as  they  ap- 
peared to  the  first  European  voyagers. 

Charlevoix,  a  French  historian  of  much  accuracy, 
states  their  national  appellation  to  be  Esquimeaux, 
which  is  a  word  of  their  own  language  having  a 
French  termination.  This  writer  explains  the  term 
as  meaning  "  eaters  of  raw  flesh  ;"  but  to  this  inter- 
pretation some  objections  may  be  reasonably  made. 
For  instance,  would  any  people  be  found  desirous  to 
stigmatize  themselves  with  a  nickname  ?  One  only 
reply  to  this  can  appear  satisfactory,  which  is,  that 
they  might  give  themselves  such  a  name  to  mark  the 


NATIVF.S    OF    c;nF.nNLANI>. 


51 


supcriorit),  as  they  may  conceive,  of  their  own  na- 
tion above  every  other,  in  their  being  able  to  partake 
of  the  fruits  of  their  hunting  on  the  spot,  whilst  the 
other  must  perish  unless  hoha\e  the  unnecessary  luxury 
of  cooking,  'i'he  value  of  this  observation,  however, 
is  much  diminished,  when  it  is  known  that  the  Grcen- 
lande:',  thoutrh  he  can  eat  his  food  undressed,  and 
generally  does  so,  by  no  means  woidd  prefer  that 
mode  to  the  greater  comfort  of  having  his  dinner  in 
the  European  manner  ;  but  he  is,  in  a  great  degree, 
compelled  to  adopt  the  former  custom  of  i.ecessity  ; 
and  the  effects  arising  from  cn;  tom  are  well  known  to 
infu>?e  themselves  into  the  constitution,  and  produce 
what  is  generally  denominated  habii.  KIlis  relates  a 
story  of  a  youth  who  had  been  carried  away  duvn  his 
native  countrv.  and,  on  his  retiu'n,  the  sail«  is  navinir 
killed  a  seal,  he  eagerly  seized  a  po"'-'on  oi  the  rav 
flesh  and  ate  it,  expressing  his  deligh'.  at  finding  a  cir- 
cumstaiice  which  so  stronjjjlv  brought  to  mind  his 
dear  n  itive  co'intry. 

Tiu  ifi( ;,  however,  is,  that  the  national  appellailion 
by  which  these  people  distinguish  Jiemselves  from 
others  is  not  Esjuiineaux,  as  has  been  so  long  icceiv- 
ed,  but  is  by  themselves  pronounced  in  (juite  a  diflei- 
ent  manner.  Were  1  to  write  it,  as  1  observed  it 
spoken  by  them,  it  shouU'  be  Uskceme  ;  (pronoimced 
according  to  our  sounds  cu  ke-ma  ;)  and  of  this  ap- 
pellation they  are  as  proud  as  a  native  of  this  coimtry 
is  of  the  name  of  Briton.  Any  person  desirous  of  ob- 
taining their  imtnet'iate  attention  and  civility,  should 
address  them  with  the  term  Uskee,  which  never  fails 
<o  ensure  that  respectful  regard  which  is  shown   bv 


Ui 


)', 


S 


}i 


ti.-* 


x^^ 


,.*»'T*' 


li 


'•, 


52 


NATIVES    OF    GREENLAND. 


conciliated  minds.  The  English  sailors  indulge  in 
their  usual  humour  of  abbreviating  names,  and  have 
not  refrained  from  exercising  their  ingenuity  in  re- 
ducing Uskee  into  Yak,  which  ingenuity,  however,  has 
not  afforded  much  satisfaction  to  the  natives.  Proba- 
bly by  similar  means  the  North  American  Yankee  has 
been  invented. 

From  these  remarks  it  must  be  apparent  that  there 
is  not  much  dependence  to  be  put  on  the  explanation 
given  by  Charlevoix  as  to  their  national  name.  He 
says,  that  Abenaqui  Esquimantsic  signifies  eater  of 
raw  flesh,  and  that  they  are  the  only  nation  in  the 
world  that  eats  raw  flesh  ;  but  the  accounts  of  many 
Tartar  tribes  are  positive  in  asserting,  that  the  eating 
of  raw  flesh  is  known  and  practised  in  many  parts  of 
northern  Tartary,  and  that  the  Tartar  horseman 
usually  has  no  other  mode  of  preparing  his  repast  than 
by  placing  it  on  his  horse's  back  beneath  the  saddle, 
which  practice  cannot  be  looked  upon  as  a  refinement 
in  cookery.  Hence  it  is  evident  that  the  Greenlanders, 
or  Uskee-me  tribes,  must  have  received  their  national 
name  from  some  other  cause. 

In  all  the  revolutions  that  language  has  undergone, 
the  pronoun  seems  to  have  maintained  a  sort  of  in- 
violabihty  throughout  all  nations.  This  is  very  re- 
markable in  the  present  case,  in  which  the  personal 
pronoun,  belonging  to  the  speaker,  is  obviously  the 
same  as  in  other  languages.  Thus,  when  an  Uskee 
wishes  to  express  absolute  refusal,  he  saj^s,  na-me,  i.  e. 
not  for  me.  Requesting  the  reader  to  bear  this  in 
mind,  1  shall  next  mention  that  the  old  Roman  term 
for  water  is  written  asqua  ;  and,  as  it  is  evidently  a 


t 


NATIVES    OF    GREENLAND. 


53 


remnant  of  an  original  language  carried  from  the  East 
in  the  course  of  colonization,  it  will  not  be  overstrain- 
ed to  find  its  use  adopted  by  other  people  \ery  far 
remote  from  the  theatre  of  the  Latin  tongue.  An- 
other term  in  the  language  just  mentioned  is  the  word 
cunnus,  signifying  woman,  the  "  belli  teterrima  cau- 
sa" of  the  satirist.  The  reader  will  probably  be 
somewhat  surprised  to  find  a  similar  term  in  use 
among  the  Greenlandcrs.  The  Uskee  tells  you  that 
the  name  of  his  wife  is  cuna.  Besides,  the  old  Latin 
word  cunabula,  cradle,  has  a  relative  term  in  the  lan- 
guage of  the  Uskee-me,  cuna-bla-bush,  coitus. 

Taking  notice,  therefore  of  the  word  asqua,  water, 
and  applying  it  to  the  term  Uskee,  it  requires  very 
little  aid  of  the  imagination  to  find  a  close  analogy. 
This  analogy  is  supported  by  the  fact,  that  these 
people  are  nowhere  found  but  in  the  vicinity  of  water. 
From  it  they  draw  subsistence;  and  its  presence  must 
be  ever  foremost  in  their  thoughts,  and  naturall)'  lead 
ihem  to  designate  their  nation  peculiarly  by  some 
term,  in  which  water  must  bear  a  prominent  share. 
The  adjunct  of  me  gives  additional  force  to  this  ob- 
servation, as  the  moriient  an  Uskee-me  makes  liis  ap- 
pearance amongst  them,  though  previously  an  entire 
stranger,  he  is  hailed  with  joy  by  this  naino,  and  is 
therefore  entitled  to  all  the  rights  of  hospitality. 

Before  we  come  to  speak  of  their  manners  and  cus- 
toms, it  may  not  be  amiss  to  attempt  an  inquiry  as  to 
their  original  residence.  In  this  respect,  it  is  best  to 
consider  tiiem  exclusively  as  fishermen,  as  they  arc 
seldom  known  to  stray  a  day's  journey  from  the  shore 
inland,     ft  io  true,  indeed,  they  sometimes  go  in  pur- 


I: 

Vii 


:)i 


^ATIVES    OF    CiREENLAND. 


suit  of  dt'cr  ;  b«it  as  on  the  American  side  such  pur- 
suit would  lead  tliem  into  tlie  neighbourhood  of  na- 
tions hostile  to  them,  and  consequently  produce  less 
or  more  the  reduction  of  their  numbers,  which  they 
are  most  careful  to  avoid,  they  are  very  unwilling  to 
expose  themselves  to  such  hazard,  and  content  them- 
selves with  what  they  can  procure  from  the  sea.  In 
Greenland,  however,  there  must  be  deer,  more  par- 
ticularly towards  the  south.  It  is  rare  in  those  islands 
to  sec  any  animal  of  that  description,  and  deer-skin  is 
seldom  seen  to  form  a  part  of  their  dress.  The 
Danes,  indeed,  may  deprive  them  of  such  skins,  by 
inducing  the  poor  creatures  to  barter  with  their  mas- 
ters; and  hence  the  rare  occurrence  of  seeing  an 
Uskee  furnished  with  any  portion  of  deer-skin.  In 
Hudson's  Bay^  the  name  for  a  deer  is,  according  to 
writers  who  have  given  accounts  of  that  country, 
tuk-toa  ;  and  in  Greenland  the  same  is  pronounced 
more  softly,  and  may  be  written  tu-tu  (too  too.)  The 
trilling  dilVerence  of  sound  in  this  instance  is  nothing; 
and  it  is  mentioned  as  tending  to  identify  the  people 
wlio  inhabit  Greenland  and  Hudson's  Bay.  There 
can  be  no  doubt  of  their  having  a  common  origin,  be- 
ing in  size,  customs  and  pursuits,  precisely  on  the 
same  scale. 

In  person  they  are  diminutive,  but  stoutly  made. 
Tiiey  seldom  stand  above  four  feet  four  inches,  ex- 
cept in  Greenland,  where  the  national  figure  is  chans^ed 
by  intcrmari  >.ge  with  the  Danes.  The  native  Us- 
kees  do  not  cordially  associate  with  this  mixed  race, 
which  they  consider  as  degenerate.  In  complexion, 
they  are  generally  of  an  olive-brown.  Their  forehead 


NATIVES    OF    GREENLAND. 


55 


and  the  sides  of  the  head,  above  the  temples,  are 
greatly  depressed  ;  the  crown  is  elevated  considera- 
bly ;  and  the  back  of  the  head  is  depressed,  as  the 
forehead.  The  smaller  end  of  a  hen's  e^^s;  presents 
a  familiar  resemblance  to  their  cranium.  Their  eyes 
are  usually  small,  but  piercing,  not  brilliant;  and  the 
calm  mild  manner  with  which  they  contemplate  a 
stranger  gives  a  good  idea  of  the  power  of  their  eye. 
Their  vision  is  astonishingly  strong,  by  means  of 
which  they  can  distinguish  objects  at  an  incredible 
distance.  The  snow  glai*e  affects  their  eyes  very 
much,  which  are  often  observed  to  be  inflamed. — 
Against  this  inconvenience,  they  have  many  ingenious 
contrivances,  in  the  manner  of  eye-shades,  which  are 
usually  a  piece  of  wood  made  to  fit  across  the  eyes, 
having  two  fine  slits,  and  a  pinhole  in  the  centre  of 
each  to  correspond  to  the  centre  of  vision.  Their 
cheek  bones  are  high,  which,  with  their  rounded  flab- 
by cheeks,  renders  the  nose  by  no  means  a  promi- 
nent feature.  Their  lips  and  mouth  are  generally 
large  ;  the  former  very  much  protruded.  The 
lower  part  of  their  face  altogether  forms  a  strik- 
ing contrast  to  their  narrow  forehead,  and  is  a  chief 
distinguishing  feature  of  this  people.  The  women 
differ  little  from  the  men,  except  that  they  are  not  so 
tall.  Their  hands  are  remarkably  fine,  smai!,  and  neat. 
The  same  remark  applies  with  regard  to  their  feet. 

The  dress  of  both  sexes  is  nearly  alike,  the  womeo 
being  distinguished  only  by  their  jacket  terminating 
)iece,   before   and   behind,  re 


jgi 


P 


un^ 


nearly  to  the  knees.     Nothing  about  the  persons  of 
the  Uskee-mes  is  more  remarkable  than  their  hair. 


'I, 


lU 


I, 

'(      i 


^f^^--. 


I   *(      JK.(>«,JMi<ii 


'f 


:*6 


NATIVES  OF  GREENLAND. 


It  hangs  iVom  their  poll,  long,  black,  coarse  and  lank, 
exactly  like  the  hairy  parts  of  the  whalebone.  The 
women  tie  it  in  a  bunch  upon  the  top  of  the  head, 
which  takes  away  much  of  the  unsightliness  of  such 
an  object. 

Having  stated  so  much  regarding  the  person  of  the 
Greenlander,  we  shall  proceed  to  trace  him  in  his  emi- 
gration. 

That  they  are  of  Tartar  origin,  may  be  very  fairly 
assumed.  Their  general  cast  of  feature,  their  retired 
and  cautious  habits,  and  above  all  their  unconquerable 
disposition  to  change  their  place  of  abode,  are  evident 
proofs  of  this  assumption  being  correct.  In  this  view, 
then,  some  of  them  may  be  considered  as  having 
moved  westward,  and  colonized  Lapland,  where  they 
are  found  in  boats  of  the  same  construction  as  those 
of  the  Greenlander  and  Hudson's  Bay  Esquimeaux, 
and  devoted  to  the  very  same  pursuits.  Others  pro- 
ceeding northward  and  eastward,  peopled  the  Sa- 
moeid  country,  and  whether  by  accident  or  design, 
ventured  across  Behring's  Straits,*  which,  consider- 
ing their  surprising  dexterity  in  the  management  of 
(heir  little  boats,  was  not  at  all  dilTicult  to  effect. 
Besides,  on  an  expedition  of  this  nature  they  are 
never  unemployed.  The  ice,  which  covers  that  Strait 
at  certain  times,  serves  as  a  place  of  repose  to  the 
seals,  which  may  be  truly  termed  the  live  stock  of  the 
Greenlander.     These  animals,  therefore,  in  the  course 


*  Behring,  in  his  voyage,  found  the  small  islands  lying  acros« 
tlip  Straits  peopled  by  Esquimeaux,  for  such  they  appeared  by 
their  dress  and  manner.«. 


NATIVES  OP  GREENLAND. 


57 


of  the  expedition,  become  a  certain  resource  against 
famine;  as  every  part  of  the  seal  is  turned  to  account— ^ 
the  very  intestines  being  usefully  employed  by  way  of 
floats  attached  to  the  darts.  The  women,  too,  who 
are  never  left  behind  when  a  removal  is  carried  on, 
will,  during  such  a  voyage,  convert  the  seal  or  bird 
skins  into  convenient  dresses,  so  that  this  little  roving 
tribe  are  seldom  at  a  loss,  the  sea  supplying  all  their 
Avants.  Should  an  extensive  field  of  ice  present  itself, 
they  atonre  got  out  of  their  boats,  each  man  takes  his 
kaiak  on  his  head;  the  woiri^n  must  look  after  their 
umiak;  (the  names  of  the  lishing  and  family  boats;) 
and,  in  this  manner  they  traverse  immense  fields  of  ice, 
which  saves  the  labour  of  paddling  round  them,  and, 
of  course,  shortens  their  journey  very  considerably. 
Such  is  their  patience  under  toil,  when  seated  in  their 
boats  upon  their  favourite  element,  that  they  usually 
perform  the  distance  of  twenty  leagues  a  day.  That 
is  the  wav  in  which  they  describe  a  dav's  rowing;  in  a 
kaiak.  In  this  manner  it  is  very  plain  that  they  might 
have  passed  along  the  arctic  shores  of  North  Ame- 
rica;  and  if  the  conjecture  be  plaiisible,  they  nuL^ht, 
year  after  year,  have  extended  tliemselves  through 
the  numerous  waters  that  are  sprinkled  over  that  un- 
explored region,  exultinjj;  in  the  solitudes  they  met 
with,  and  which  to  them  were  secure  blessings. 

Thus  have  they,  in  the  course  of  their  emigration, 
passed  from  Siberia  into  America,  and  spread  them- 
selves over  all  the  shores  of  North  America  to  the 
eastward,  always  settliiig  upon  low  islands,  contiguous 
to  the  best  waters  for  killing  seals  and  wild  fowl, 
&c.:  a  people  so  accustomed  to  hardy  fare  could  not 


^\ 


/; 


» 


'■^  —  — ,- 


><wyi>wt—yr— 


58 


i\  AT  IVES  OF  CIllEENLAND. 


be  miicli  at  a  loss  to  find  a  rcHidcncc  on  sucli  a  coast, 
whence  the  passage   to  Greenland  was  not  difficult. 
The   latter,  however,  must  have  been  attended  with 
much  difficulty  and   danger.     But  that  it  has   been 
effected  is  undoubtedly  true,  as  the  first  European 
adventurers  found  them  in  possession  of  that  country 
in  the  tenth  century.     So  also  about  tliat  perioil  they 
were  found   as  far  south  as  Newfoundland.     There 
must  consequently  have  elapsed   a  great  number  of 
years  before  they  could  have  advanced  so  far  south- 
ward ;  and,  of  course,   their  emigration  must  have 
commenced  at  a  period  previous  to  the  Christian  era. 
In  the  course  of  their  wanderings,  coming  in  contact 
with  other  tribes,  who  from  causes,  not  necessary  to 
form  a  part  of  this  inquiry,  had  already  spread  over 
other  parts  of  the  American  continent,  and  being  of 
peaceful  and  very  unwarlike  habits,  they  were  unlit 
to  associate  with  their  new  neighbours.     The  conse- 
quence was,  that  the  red  Indians,  as  they  are  termed, 
wlio  lived  entirely  by  the  chase,  usually  attributed  to 
their  timid  neighbours  every  unfavourable  change  of 
weather  that  interfered  with  their  hunting.     Hence 
arose  wars,  which  to  the  present  day  are  continued 
with  undiminished  asperity.     The  appearance  too  of 
the  Uskee,  clad  in  his  skins,  his  head  wrapped  in  a 
hood,  and  his  whole  figure  lowly,  and  little  expressive 
of  warlike  character,  was  remarkably  contrasted  with 
the  tall,  graceful  figure  of  the  red  man,  accustomed  to 
warfare,  and  impatient  of  intrusion. 

The  Uskees,  in  self-defence,  must  have  learned  also 
how  to  fight,  and  doubtless  retaliated  with  devastating 
effect,  having  always  a  sure  retreat  in  their  boats. 


NATIVES  OF  GREENLAND. 


69 


This  disposition  the  early  settlers  from  Norway  found 
to  their  cost,  when  they  provoked  them  to  vengeance 
in  Greenland,  and  were  in  consequence  extirpated. 
Neither  did  a  subsequent  visit  from  the  Europeans  tend 
to  diminish  the  rancour  arising  from  unprovoked  in- 
jury. For,  in  the  year  1605,  Christian  IV.  of  Den- 
mark having  sent  out  Admiral  Lindenow  with  a  small 
fleet,  under  the  guidance  of  John  Knight,  an  English 
mariner,  in  search  of  Old  Greenland,  "  they  seized 
four  wild  men,  and  were  obliged  to  kill  one  of  them  to 
render  the  others  tractable  ;"  a  most  extraordinary 
specimen  truly  of  European  refinement. 

In  the  settlement  of  Newfoundland  and  Canada  by 
the  English  and  French,  those  Uskees  who  had  ven- 
tured so  far  south,  and  had  been  there  established  for 
centuries,  finding  the  strangers  determined  on  retain- 
ing possession  of  Uie  country,  unanimouwly  resolved 
to  abandon  those  shores,  which  they  accordingly  did ; 
and  have  since  fixed  their  abode  in  the  northern  parts 
of  Hudson's  Bay,  and  among  the  lakes  and  seas  in  the 
northern  parts  of  North  America,  where  they  now  re- 
main unmolested,  except  by  some  of  their  warlike 
neighbours  from  the  southward  and  westward. 

Mr.  Ellis  states  that  the  severity  of  the  cold  beyond 
the  sixty-first  degree  causes  the  trees  to  dwindle  into 
brushwood,  and  that  none  of  the  human  species  ap- 
peared beyond  the  sixty-seventh  degree,  inferring 
that  human  life  could  not  sustain  the  cold  beyond  that 
degree.  This  applies,  in  Mr.  Ellis's  account,  to  the 
natives  around  the  bottom  of  Hudson's  Bay  ;  biit  the 
shores  northward  and  north-westward  of  that  degree 
remain  to  be  satisfactorily  explored  ;  in  which  event 


i 


/; 


\i 


k  i 


,.*f 


T 


60 


NATIVES  OP  GREENLAND. 


t4:i 


it  will  certainly  be  found  that  Uskees  inhabit  coun- 
tries of  much  liigher  latitudes  than  the  sixty-seventh. 
On  the  Greenland  side  of  Davis's  Straits  it  was  sup- 
posed that  no  natives  existed  beyond  the  sixty-fourth 
degree;  but  subsequent  research  found  them  nume- 
rous along  the  coast  as  far  as  Disko.  Here  discovery 
seemed  to  terminate;  but  not  long  after,  other  navi- 
gators met  with  a  population  sprinkled  over  the  low 
islands  up  to  the  seventy-third  degree,  where  the 
voyagers  saw  many  women  in  boats,  and  traded  with 
them  for  seal  skins,  and  unicorns'  horns.  It  is  a  posi- 
tive fact,  moreover,  that  they  have  been  met  with  at 
the  Devil's  Thumb,  in  the  seventy-fifth  degree  nearly, 
provided  with  muskets,  flow  much  further  north 
they  can  be  traced  is  doubtful;  but  that  they  can  exist 
beyond  the  degree  stated  by  Mr.  Ellis  is  without 
question.  Hence  also  arises  a  presumption  that  the 
cold  in  those  high  latitudes  is  not  of  such  severity  as 
to  forbid  living  there  through  the  winter,  particularly 
if  due  precaution  be  observed. 

At  Disko,  or  rather  at  Lievely,  there  is  a  Danish 
settlement,  where  a  factor  constantly  resides,  and  lives 
veiy  comfortably.  The  Danish  government  maintains 
a  governor  for  the  superintendence  and  management 
of  their  concerns  in  that  quarter,  who  constantly  re- 
sides there.  Buffon  hazarded  an  opinion  that  there 
was  no  ice  at  the  pole,  grounding  his  conjecture  on 
the  supposed  warmth  of  the  atmosphere  in  that  place ; 
but  this  part  of  the  subject  shall  be  taken  into  consi- 
deration more  fully,  when  we  come  to  discuss  the 
question  of  a  north-west  passage. 

The  Danes,  in  re-establishing  their  claims  to  the 


NATIVES  OF  GREENLAND. 


61 


possession  of  Greenland,  have  done  very  little  to- 
wards ameliorating  the  condition  of  the  natives.  Tiie 
natural  disposition  however  of  the  Uskees,  Gipsey- 
likc,  makes  them  appear  to  conform  to  the  manners 
and  religion  of  their  masters  ;  yet  little  doubt  of  their 
insincerity  exists.  It  must  be  acknowledged  that  the 
conduct  of  many  of  the  Danes  sent  thither,  as  it  is  said, 
for  their  crimes,  is  not  well  calculated  to  reconcile 
them  to  European  sentiments.  They  are,  if  spoiled 
by  such  corrupt  example,  looked  upon  as  untractable  ; 
and  a  sensible  writer,  descanting  on  their  unwilling- 
ness to  become  converter!,  represents  them  as  listening 
very  attentively  to  Christian  exhortation,  and  when 
asked  if  they  understood  all  tiiat  had  been  said  to 
them,  their  answer  was  childishly  affirmative,  when  it 
was  evident  they  did  not  comprehend  or  retain  a  tittle 
of  the  subject.  "  They  are  such  adepts  in  disguising 
or  suppressing  their  passions,  that  one  might  take 
them  for  stoics  in  apjiearance."  This  short  sentence 
shows  very  fully  their  calm  and  peaceful  temper. 
They  never  interrupt  any  person  when  speaking ; 
and  their  reply  is  sensible  and  brief,  and  marked  with 
the  most  respectful  deference  to  the  person  they  ad- 
dress, provided  he  commands  their  good  opinion.  It 
is  when  they  do  not  esteem  the  man,  that  they  are 
liable  to  the  name  of  stoics  in  appearance. 

The  Danish  convicts  and  settlers  have  intermarried 
with  the  Uskee  women,  and  a  mixed  generation  is 
now  remarkably  predominant  where  the  government 
has  been  fixed.  Some  of  the  children  of  the  Euro- 
peans by  the  Uskee  women  are  quite  fair,  but  all  have 
that  remarkable  attachment  to  their  countrv  which 


■ 


62 


iVATIVKS  OP  GRKENLAND. 


the  genuine  natives  evince.  The  youn£j  man  who 
airiused  the  people  at  Hull,  Ix-ith,  and  in  the  Thames, 
with  the  exercise  oihis  kaiak  was  the  son  <»f  a  Dane, 
but  his  mother  was  a  native  of  Greenlatul.  It  is  said 
that  the  sister  of  that  young  man  was  so  much  grieved 
"t  the  thoughts  of  his  going  ("rom  his  dear  home  that 
she  [)ined  auay  and  died  of  grief.  Such  is  their  exces- 
sive attachment  to  tfieir  countiy. 

In  their  intercourse  with  strangers,  they  arc  at  first 
shy  and  Cr  utious,  but  linn  in  their  nmnners.  That 
reserve  soon  disappears  when  they  are  kindly  treated, 
and  they  freely  communicate  tlieir  knowledge  of  any 
thing  asked  them.  Their  experience  extending  but 
little  beyond  the  arts  befitting  the  necessary  occupa- 
tions of  tlicir  own  peculiar  mode  of  life,  makes  their 
information  of  inconsiderable  value  when  applied  to 
the  greater  concerns  of  European  commerce.  They 
appear  sensible  of  their  deficiency  in  this  respect :  and 
when  they  give  reply  to  the  inquiries  of  the  whale 
hunters,  it  is  always  frank  but  diffident.  Any  elFort 
to  extend  their  experience  beyond  the  contracted 
circle  of  their  wants,  is  attended  with  such  a  train 
of  imaginary  difficulty,  that  (ew,  if  any  of  them  have 
ever  ventured  out  of  the  footsteps  of  their  forefa- 
thers. The  Uskee-me  jacket,  trowsers,  boots,  darts 
and  canoe  (for  they  use  this  name  for  a  boat  in- 
discriminately with  kaiak)  are  identically  the  same 
as  they  have  been  observed  more  than  800  years 


ajTo. 


The  great  difficulty  of  obtaining  from  these  people 
accurate  information  respecting  the  northern  coun- 
tries, is  a  source  of  perpetual  error  and  perplexity. 


NATIVES    OF    GREENLAND. 


63 


f 


Lookinfi;  with  a  jealous  eye  on  all  strangers,  and 
temj)to(J  by  the  richness  of  some  paltry  present,  but 
whicli  appears  in  their  eyes  of  much  value,  they  have 
frequently  shown  a  desire  to  communicate  accounts 
of  their  country  and  its  resources,  greatly  exagge- 
rated, in  order  to  make  their  information  on  such 
subjects  appear  of  the  utmost  importance  to  the 
people  from  whom  such  communications  were  known 
to  bring  superior  advantairos  to  them.  It  is  a  pre- 
vailing trait  in  uncivilized  ut'e,  to  desire  strongly  such 
things  as  come  within  the  direct  apprehension  of  par- 
ticular wants.  This  is  signally  exemplified  in  the 
African,  who,  dead  to  the  calls  of  consanguinity,  is 
anxious  to  decorate  his  graceful  neck  with  a  string  of 
StatFordshire  ware  at  the  expense  of  a  child  ;  and  the 
wife  of  his  bosom  must  often  be  a  bit  of  barter,  in 
order  that  the  human  beast  may  contemj)late  his  per- 
fections in  a  mirror,  in  her  stead.  The  same  pro- 
pensity exists  in  the  humble  Esquimeaux  as  in  the 
African;  but  tlie  desires  of  the  former  ary  finely 
chastened  by  a  reserve  that  seems  almost  peculiar  to 
this  people.  The  tie  of  consanguinity  binds  the  arctic 
inhabitant  too  closely  to  be  unfastened  :  it  is  a  gordian 
knot  of  a  texture  too  refined  and  complicated  to  be 
undone:  it  is  genuine,  unsophisticated  nature,  nursed 
in  the  continual  presence  of  all  that  is  dear  to  ex- 
istence, and  which  no  temptation  can  destroy. 

There  is  not  probably  a  nation  on  the  earth  more 
signalized  for  urbanity  than  are  the  inhabitants  of 
Greenland.  To  witness  the  splendour  of  a  London 
assembly,  its  luxuries,  elegance  and  grandeur,  and 
(were  it  possible)  to  turn  the  eye  the  next  instant  on 


■T^ 


I.. 


f 


1% 


,»».,-_^- .a.- 


01 


NATIVES    Ol'    (JKEENLAND. 


i 


tlic  little  patriurcliiil  circle  in  an  Uskec  Ixu',.  Vnv  com- 
mon minds  would  relish  tlic  comparison;  ^l.  lo  anjr 
one  accustonjed  to  rellcct,  and  to  appreciate  the  hap- 
piness of  mankind  comparatively,  on  the  scale  of  ne- 
cessary wants  and  wishes,  the  lot  of  the  apparently 
wretched  (ireeidander  is  I'li-  liom  heins:;  miscrahle. 
In  truth,  had  Euro|)eun  hixorv  and  its  allurements 
been  witliiield,  his  state  woidd  Iiunc  still  I'emained  in 
ahori:;inal  simplicity  and  happiness  ;  and,  it'  any 
thou<:;ht  arise  to  disturb  his  constitutional  tian([uillity 
ol  mind,  it  proceeds  iVom  a  reilection  that  he  wants 
somethiuL"  liom  the  <rreat  wak  ;  (it  is  hv  this  term  the 
L'skec  expresses  a  .-iiip  :)  and  he  will  readily  barter 
the  last  article  oC  dress,  necessary  to  the  comtbrt  of 
his  person,  in  order  to  obtain  a  bit  of  lead,  or  some 
powder  for  liis  ijun,  or  a  rag  of  handkerchief  for 
his  cuna. 

The  commodities  generally  tralTicked  with  them 
are  such  as  tiie  sailors  fmd  no  lon<i:er  uselid  to  their 
own  accommodation,  or  some  vile  coarse  articles  of 
dress,  of  no  value  when  comj)ared  with  what  they  get 
in  exchange,  hi  later  years,  the  art-;  of  the  luinopean 
have  taught  tliem  a  little  more  euniiing  ;  and  some 
now  are  as  expert  at  making  a  bargain  as  any  of  their 
visiters.  In  this  respect,  they  complinient  the  honour 
of  the  English  \er\  pointedly  in  contrast  with  the  con- 
duct of  the  Danes.  They  frequently  say,  "  English- 
man good,  Uskee  good,  Dauskee  no  good,"  thereby 
leaving  an  inference  that  they  are  by  no  means,  even 
yet,  satisfied  witn  the  presence  of  strangers,  and  con- 
sider the  blessings  which  their  master  Avould  commu- 
nicate, greatly  under  the  value  of  their  natural  in- 


NATIVF-S    OF    GRF.KNLAND. 


65 


lioritaiico.  Strictly  honest  in  all  their  dealings,  tliey 
are  also  exceedingly  watchful  that  they  be  not  cheated; 
and  he  must  indeed  he  worse  than  savaire  who  would 
wrong  people  of  such  direct  integrity  as  they  are  re- 
markable for.  The  hardships  and  perils  through 
which  they  must  toil  in  order  to  |)rocure  material 
articles  for  barter,  should  also  form  a  humane  consi- 
deration of  their  condition,  and  protect  them  from  in- 
justice. Some  serious  grounds,  therefore,  of  dislike 
towards  the  Danish  dominancy,  must  exist,  before 
these  people,  strongly  guided  by  a  scrise  of  right  and 
wrong,  could  be  brought  to  express  an  abhorrence 
of  their  master's  principles;  and  this  must  be  either 
by  the  Danes  exacting  from  their  industry  a  demand 
in  the  shape  of  tax  for  the  protection  afforded  them, 
or  for  the  support  of  the  missionaries,  or  else  by 
trucking  with  them  on  terms  obviously  disadvantageous 
to  the  natives.  On  either  point,  the  Uskee  feels  liis 
superiority  in  principle  over  his  master,  and  is  not  to 
be  reconciled  to  his  views. 

The  original  form  of  society  still  exists  amongst  the 
Uskee-mes  in  all  its  simplicity.  Though  a  nation  as  dis- 
tinctly defined  as  any  other  in  the  world,  yet  they  arc 
such  only  in  identity  of  character.  Their  institutions 
are  truly  patriarchal  without  the  danger  of  dissolution 
from  the  extravagant  acquisition  of  property.  Whilst 
in  the  early  government  of  patriarchal  form,  the 
gradual  accession  of  landed  property  and  flocks  of 
cattle  and  servants  led  to  the  despotism  of  some 
wealthier  lord  ;  and  many,  sharing  such  abundance 
in  common,  desired  a  chief  who  should  maintain  equal 
justice,  these  petty  governments   became   gradually 

9 


«6 


NATIVES  OF  GREENLAND. 


absorbed  into  lar<^er  ones,  and  empires  have  been 
formed,  and  rcvolulions  given  rise  to  niinons  and 
wasting  wars.  During  a!!  (his,  that  has  formed  the 
basis  of  ancient  and  modern  liistory,  the  simple  Uskee- 
me,  content  in  his  kaick,  plies  his  paddle  in  unmo- 
lested waters,  kills  his  seals  and  wild  birds,  or  trans- 
fixes his  nimbler  game,  and  in  the  bosom  of  his  small 
rejoicing  family  enjoys  his  good  fortune,  and  trains  !iis 
son  to  imitate  the  prowess  and  skill  of  his  sire.  Liv- 
ing in  a  manner  that  requires  little  from  the  neighbour- 
ing soil,  he  farms  not,  he  tills  not,  nor  concerns  lilmself 
in  the  slightest  degree  about  the  right  of  property  in 
the  territory  in  which  he  resides:  he  is  consequently 
free  of  th.^  broils  which  such  species  of  property  is 
likely  to  create.  Give  him  his  (ishing  waters,  and 
leave  him  undisturbed,  "  he  takes  no  thought  for  the 
morrow." 

The  father  of  a  family  is  to  all  intents  absolyte 
chief;  but  still  his  authority  is  exercised  with  the 
mildest  sway.  To  chide  for  a  fault  is  considered  the 
severest  punishment.  Blows  are  never  resorted  to. 
It  is  considered  a  savage  and  barbarous  act  to  strike 
an  Uskec,  and  is  looked  on  with  abhorrence.  The 
women  are  treated  kindly,  but  are  regarded  as  ser- 
vants, doing  all  the  labours  of  the  house,  excepting 
such  parts  as  the  men  think  their  superior  understand- 
ing only  can  be  equal  to.  Domestic  harmony  is  sel- 
dom known  to  be  disturbed,  unless  when  in  the  ab- 
sence of  the  men  some  dowager  mother  exercises  her 
peevishness  upon  her  daughter-in-law,  especially  if 
the  latter  have  not  the  good  fortune  to  have  been  the 


NATIVES  OF  GREENLAND. 


67 


mother  of  a  son;  for  on  tlie  birth  of  male  children 
they  think  the  existence  of  the  nation  rests. 

The  men  are  the  carpenters;  the  women  the  tai- 
lors, shoemakers,  house-masons,  and  cooks,  the  last 
more  particular!)',  as  the  men,  on  returning  with  game, 
no  sooner  arc  diseriijajjed  from  their  kaiaks  than  all 
further  concern  on  tlicir  part  ceases.  This  arises 
very  probably  from  the  excessive  fatij^ue  to  which 
they  have  been  exposed,  ratlicr  tlian  to  any  indiifer- 
encc  towards  their  women.  The  women's  labour  tjjen 
commences.  They  have  to  haul  the  seals  ashore,  and 
convey  to  the  teiit  or  hut  the  diiferent  animals  taken. 
Their  first  concern  beiuij^to  draw  a  little  blood  from 
the  seal,  (which,  after  belna;  killed,  is  stanched  for 
that  purpose,)  and  present  it  to  the  men,  by  way  of 
cordial  after  their  fatigue.  I'hen,  having  provided 
the  men  with  dry  clothes,  they  proceed  to  flay  and  cut 
up  the  spoil.  Seal's  flesh  forms  their  chief  support; 
and  they  employ  various  modes  of  preserving  it  for 
future  use.  The  most  common  is  to  cut  it  into  thin 
slips,  and  so  dry  it  over  a  line  in  the  interior  of  their 
huts.  The  blubber  is  most  carefully  preserved,  as 
being  convertible  to  almost  every  domestic  comfort, 
more  precious  by  far  to  them  tiian  wine  is  to  others. 
Oil  is  the  luxury  of  their  meals,  their  bread  being  no- 
thing more  than  the  dried  muscular  part  of  the  seals 
or  of  birds. 

Such  a  representation  of  life  would  form  little  in- 
ducement to  a  European  to  exchange  his  comforts  in 
its  room.  The  picture  is  to  such  appetites  truly  dis- 
gusting; and  the  horrible  smell  of  their  huts,  persons, 
and  almost  e\'ety  article  belonging  to  them,  is  intolc- 


I* 
1 


—JIT  wWuwm*— <fc» 


■>  Wi  <iB  .^i  ■»»   f«rf«i^^tievl 


68 


.NATIVES  OF  GREENLAND. 


ruble  to  the  coarsest  feeling.  Even  the  sailor  accus- 
tomed to  the  atmosphere  of  a  whale-ship  has  been  fre- 
quently known  to  nauseate  the  inside  of  a  Greenland- 
er's  hut.  Those  poor  creatures  smile  at  such  squeam- 
ishness,  and  kindlj  excuse  the  want  of  politeness  in  the 
stranger,  as  he  could  not  j)ossibly  know  any  thing 
better. 

The  whale  often  wounded,  and  carrying  in  his  huge 
body  the  Instrument  of  destruction,  very  often  in  his 
anguish  runs  himself  ashore,  or  into  some  creek  among 
the  rocks,  and  there,  lingering,  dies.  Such  a  chance 
is  an  unexpected  blessing  if  discovered  :  and  any  per- 
sjon  who  has  ever  winded  a  dead  whale  must  know 
that  an  occurrence  of  that  kind  is  not  likely  to  remain 
long  a  secret.  Every  hut  is  then  emptied  to  take  ad- 
vantage of  the  fortunate  occasion.  If  any  one  is 
within  reach  of  the  good  tidings,  he  is  immediately 
invited,  and  it  is  easy  to  imagine  what  a  scene  ensues. 
Men,  women,  and  children,  with  every  edged  instiii- 
ment  at  command,  are  in  full  employment.  Jjut  in 
such  eagerness  wounds  are  often  inflicted  by  accident, 
and  such  are  never  resented.  The  blubber  is  care- 
fully stored,  that  it  may  subside  into  oil ;  the  muscular 
parts  arc  removed  for  future  fare,  and  nothing  can  be 
of  coarser  texture,  yet  still  they  relish  it,  and  arc 
thankful  for  the  blessing.  The  tendons  also  are  care- 
fully preserved,  to  be  a[)])ropriated  as  cordage,  thread, 
lines,  and  for  various  other  purposes;  and  in  the 
whalebone  they  have  sufficient  for  their  own  private 
necessities,  and  for  the  demands  of  the  Danes. 

In  winter  time  they  retire  further  from  the  sea  than 
they  had  been  in  the  summer  months,   and  m  th 


eir 


-■- •  .-^mfir'- 


NATIVES     OF    GKLKNL.VND. 


69 


huts  or  winter  houses  generally  spend  the  interval 
between  the  latter  end  of  October  and  the  njiddle  of 
March  in  getting  up  their  fishing  tackle,  whilst  ■'lie 
women  are  busily  engaged  in  repairing  the  kaiak, 
or  sewing  dresses  for  the  men.  On  such  occasions 
the  children  have  an  opportunity  of  learning  tlie  arts 
peculiar  to  their  sex,  and  scarcely  i\ny  other  time  is 
given  for  their  education. 

As  soon  as  the  returning  sun  announces  the  approach 
of  summer,  all  is  bustle  and  activity.  The  materials 
for  the  summer  huts  are  got  in  readiness,  and  t!ic 
whole  household,  sometimes  consistin"'  of  live  or  six 
families,  moves  downwards  to  tiie  fishing  place,  which 
is  generally  a  low  island  with  a  sloping  beach  looking 
towards  the  south,  for  th'.;  case  and  convenieiice  of 
launclimg  the  boats  or  drawing  the  se:  is  asiiore. 
They  arc  not  confined  to  any  particular  spot  fo:'  tlie 
summer  :  unless  al/undancc  of  seals  be  seen,  they 
generally  shift  to  some  other  station,  which  in  the 
course  of  I'onuor  seasons  they  have  observed  as  uiore 
fit,  or  as  they  may  have  informatior  ;om  otliers  of 
iheii  countrymen. 

The  Greenlander  i.^  ver'  vain  of  his  acco?np!ish- 
mcnts  ;  and  viewing  thfi>..  as  se  dt^os,  as  the  pecfec- 
tion  of  human  art.  he  pities  uic  ix^iorance  of  any  one 
who  is  unable  to  maaage  <;  kaiak.  or  use  (lie  hand- 
lioard  in  discharging  thv  -pe'dv  or  lii^iiter  dart.  It  is 
dangerous  for  a  European  to  venture  i  ito  one  ol' 
those  canoes,  as  he  is  almost  certain  of  being  instantiv 
upset,   in    which  case  tlie  buoyancy  of   the  little  bark 

would  certainly  kecj)  him  itnmerji^d.  and  drown  him. 


i  ' 


Tl 


le  seal,  mischievous;  in  xhv  extremr  towards  cverv 


70 


NATIVES  OF    GREENLAND. 


i   .- 


creature  weaker  than  himself,  entertains  a  sovereign 
dread  of  the  Uskee-nie,  and  (lies  from  every  quarter 
where  he  discovers  a  kaiak  ;  but  his  precaution  sel- 
dom avails.  The  instant  a  seal  is  seen  by  a  Green- 
lander,  he  whispers  "  pussce"  (seal)  along  the  sur- 
face of  the  water  to  the  nearest  of  his  companions, 
who  telegraphs  the  signal  until  all  the  boats  are  en- 
gaged in  the  chase,  and  it  is. seldom  possible  for  their 
prey  to  escape.  The  seal  is  impetuous  in  disposition, 
and,  having  once  observed  his  pursucis,  he  dives  re- 
peatedly, and  in  diilbrent  directions,  to  confound 
them  ;  but  becomes  at  length  so  short-winded  by  his 
hurry,  that  he  cannot  remain  long  out  of  sight;  and 
as  the  Uskees  are  around  in  various  points  watchin'<- 
the  favourable  moment,  one  of  them  paddles  silently 
in  his  rear,  using  the  paddle  with  one  hand,  whilst 
with  the  other  he  is  getting  his  tackle  in  order  ;  and, 
having  advanced  near  enou2;li,  for  he  is  sure  to  mea-' 
sure  the  distance  with  accuracy,  he  flings  his  dart, 
and  never  fails  to  stiike.  The  seal,  terrified  and 
wounded,  dives  in  the  greatest  Ihn  ry  ;  but  a  float 
beinjj  attached  to  the  dnrt  by  a  leatliern  line,  he  is 
soon  forced  up  again,  and  is  shortly  despatched.  They 
are  then  careful  to  stanch  the  wounJs,  to  save  as 
much  of  the  blood  as  possible,  and  to  distend  the 
body,  by  blowing  into  the  cellular  part,  as  butchers 
sometimes  are  used  to  do,  in  order  to  make  the  body 
of  the  anima!  buoyant,  otherwise  it  would  go  to  the 
bottom  as  soon  as  dead. 

Seal  hunting,  being  their  most  profitable  as  well  as 
most  dangerous  pursuit,  is  looked  upon  as  the  perfec- 
tion of  manly  achievement.     It  forms  the  burden  oi' 


NATIVES     OF     GREENLAND. 


71 


praise  to  which  every  man  aspires  ;  and  it  is  chiefly 
tlirou2;Ii  the  Aime  of  having  killed  such  a  number  of 
seals  that  any  man  can  aim  at  pre-eminence.  The 
unmarried  women  hsten  with  eagerness  when  such 
great  exploits  are  recounted  ;  and  a  description  of  a 
beal  hunt  given,  with  proper  emphasis  and  gesture,  by 
the  fortunate  hunter,  is  sure  to  obtain  general  approba- 
tion. The  ar)p!auhe  which  they  bestow  is  not  however 
clamorous,  but  tinctured  with  that  decency  and  reserve 
for  which  they  are  remarkable.  It  is  on  such  occasions 
that  love  matches  usually  are  set  on  foot  ;  and  the 
successful  candidate  (or  the  lady's  hand  must  rely  on 
the  credit  he  has  obtained  by  the  number  of  seals  he 
has  taken. 

There  is  very  great  danger  to  the  Greeniander  in 
the  seal  hunt.  Should  tlie  seal  be  little  exhausted  m 
the  chase,  he  often  tiiriis  on  his  adversary,  seizes  on 
his  kaiak,  and  with  his  sharp  teeth  pierces  the  flimsy 
cover,  when  no  alternative  remains  to  the  poor  Uskee 
but  death,  as  his  kaiak  will  sink  and  take  him  down. 
This  must  be  certain  ;  as  the  others  can  offer  no  as- 
sistance, except  to  allow  him  to  hold  by  the  end  of 
another  boat,  to  the  gi'cat  risk  of  him  who  navigates 
it.  Except  in  the  cdi^e  of  a  father  and  son,  such  ac- 
commodation is  very  rare,  as  e\cry  man  on  such  emer- 
gency naturally  thinks  of  the  value  which  his  life  is  of 
to  his  own  family.  Much  danger  also  is  to  be  ap- 
prehended if  the  line  get  foul  of  the  paddle,  or  arm, 
or  even  neck  of  the  hunter,  when  the  se.al  dives  so 
suddenly  on  being  wounded.  It  is  then  that  the  Us- 
kee disj)lays  his  skill  and  expertness.     If  upset,   he 


'I'ljii  iiiiimii 


**~mm 


i*iHW  r.*A  JaA 


) 


72 


NATIVES    OF    GREENLAND. 


raises  lumsclf  again  in  his  kaiak  by  a  dexterous  uia- 
nagement  of  his  paddle. 

When  assembled  at  a  merry-making  or  at  a  mar- 
riage-feast, tlicy  are  cheerful  and  joyous  in  the  high- 
est degree  ;  but  none  of  that  boisterous  rejoicing, 
Avhich  is  considered  the  test  of  ejijoyment  in  other 
places,  is  here  known.  The  dance  is  practised  in 
h'vely  and  tolerably  well-executed  movement  ;  and 
some  of  the  Danes  havit)g  introduced  the  fiddle 
amongst  them,  they  contrive  to  make  out  a  pleasing 
entertainment.  The  men  talk  over  their  exploits  in 
seal  hunting,  at  which  the  boys  are  always  attentive 
and  silent  hearers.  Sonietimes  lijc  sons  is  raised, 
when  one  who  leads  the  chorus  repeats  a  lirje,  and 
this  is  immediately  succeeded  by  all  the  rest  join- 
ing in  a  short  accomppniment  of  no  porlicular  mean- 


ing. 


They  are  extremely  hospitable,  particularly  to  any 
of  their  own  nation  who  happen  to  pass  near  their 
abode,  in  removing  from  one  place  to  another  in  search 
of  seals.  A  bfotherly  invitation  is  instantly  given, 
and  the  utmost  attention  paid  to  the  stranger,  who 
freely  imparts  his  experience  of  the  season,  and  re- 
ceives in  retiirn  such  information  as  he  requires.  It 
is  this  interchange  of  good  oflices  wiiicli  makes  them 
set  so  high  a  value  on  each  other. 

The  lanffupo-e  of  the  Grecnianders  or  Uskee-mes  is 
very  gutturf  L  Like  the  Norwegians,  they  pronounce 
the  letter  r  in  the  throat,  ~,c>  that  it  is  not  easy  to  dis- 
tinguish many  of  their  tones.  They  pronounce  their 
words  with  a'leat  fluencv:  and  their  accents  seem  to 


y»^f  •.%<■: 


t 


:»^^:\:"'yr" 


«»-^^v?:.  ^.  "-^i^*^ 


n^uii\i\i!imr'  - 


•-~JIlirji:fi3ianmiiL  .r^r  -— :  r  r—jLia^Ttrm-mnmit 


-v"^'-"' ''■''"'' 'irjLli£^ 


-.^'^^  ^^,.^" 


llllll'"  "•II* 


4»i 


^    'V^^'  ,,,,.,■•/■■■  " 


/,-■•■/ 


,7V.  '■•" 


/     l.M 


V.ir'.'X.W.  7  ',/':' 
tt4"'2'2.Jit. 


■<r^^ 


M 


Ml 


kH 


r- 


TTinTif 


NATIVES  OP  GRRENLANb. 


73 


be  numerous,  by  the  peculiar  stress  with  which  they 
delivt .  certain  sounds.  There  are  many  consonants 
"iviiicli  tliey  never  use  at  the  begirming  of  words,  as 
they  prefer  commencing  generally  with  a  vowel. 
Even  such  words  of  other  languages  as  they  are  de- 
sired to  repeat,  they  dress  in  their  own  sounds;  and 
if  it  begin  with  any  of  the  proscribed  letters,  srch  is 
usually  omitted,  as  was  observed  on  the  term  Skrael- 
liug,  which  they  converted  into  Karalit.  They  have 
no  writing  amongst  them  ;  though  some  of  the  children 
of  tile  Danish  convicts  have  been  taught  to  write. 
The  Uskees  think  it  so  much  time  thrown  away  from 
the  more  important  concern  of  learning  the  manage- 
ment of  tlie  kaiak  and  dart.  They  usually  reckon  on 
their  lingers,  and  seldom  go  beyond  ten  in  counting; 
though  others  say  they  have  been  known  to  reckon 
as  high  as  twenty.  Their  conveniences  of  hfe  being 
so  few,  make  further  numbering  unnecessary. 

The  following  brief  list  of  words  from  the  language 
of  the  Greenlander  is  very  insulTicient  to  give  any 
adequate  idea  of  its  construction;  bu%  as  it  may  aid 
further  endeavours  on  such  a  subject,  I  beg  leave  to 
subjoin  them,  with  their  English  signification. 


IJskec The  national  denomination,  to 

which  is  added  me  ;  and  to 
this  compound  is  attached  the 
most  honourable  considera- 
tion. 

Yak The  national  name  so  pronounc- 
ed is  insulting. 

Cuna Woman. 

10 


^=^ iriTrr-T-: 


rmnrfnTOL-ima 


miiM*       -  - 


.iinn'niiii"'tmT»  ■ 


•J 


„0s.'''^  (KJ 


osCi" 


<£)>» 


<»i4j!llfc 


...    ,.-•/•■'■" 


C=o  \''*^*  /  .■III  !■■': 

/://•.",!' If.  7  ',/'■'.■• 

«  I"i2..i,.. 


*i'r 


..i.U- 


,-,''•■' 


„-   ""• 


^*<?^ 


•jji.  I.-I 


0 


muiiiuhuiwuid 


.///ff^/r 


"CO 


— TITJrJU  -lilUlL'  -'-•:: TI-in"T7r3!i7 


--F^^-  j,-.^-ri 


■'Tanr"  ■  - " " vininnniamnnr  ^ 


i7- 


^'^  >'//^  :' '»/  /'h^ll'^/^///,/^• 


.//f,///,        /y        ^   /..,  /,;.//,. 


// 


l»l 


-(- 


/;./  .".I'd!//  ',  /'A 


-  ^""^^^     -^^^Ji'il,  : :t;L:iiji..;iii'iiir   —  - 


r  —  1. 1'mmanrrrrTT/TT" 


■  M!II'IL'!JI1!UlJ_ 


inruuHi  mil  uiulzi 


i^'it 


^/^  ^•l/s  '/'hnm/r 


^"^^_  o'^^^o 


.^"^        ^rt"        "8^% 


0      6 


r> 


•siTii* 


■'•■  /./ 


-.-..■^ 


I 


«^^ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


^  iii  1120 


11-25  i  1.4 


1.8 


1.6 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


fe 


^t  <f 


% 


y; 


^ 


•^ 


^ 


V  ^  ^'*> 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


i 


74  NATIVES    OF    GREENLAND. 

Picaninnee Child.      A   familiar    diminutive 

generally  applied. 
Ap Yes  ;    probably  an  imitation  of 

ay- 

Na-me Absolute  refusal. 

O-mu-as-a-wak  .  .  Will  you  go  on  board  the  ship  ? 

Kai-n-u-ka Affirmative  reply  to  the  former 

question. 

Maize-wak A  ship. 

Nella-nuc-a-tuck .   A  watch. 

Apleet A  gun. 

Apatik Gloves. 

Brumik Bread. 

Sucanuk The  sun. 

Sucanungfi Greenland. 

Tu-tu A  Deer. 

Tri-u-ni-ak A  fox.  The  isatis  of  some  wri- 
ters. 

Mikee Dog. 

Nannok Bear. 

Kazee Ice. 

Nuna Yonder. 

Maria Land. 

Puma Whale. 

Pusee Seal. 

Sovitch Knife. 

Canu Boat. 

Kaiak Boat. 


»r<^ 


' 


to 


7r> 


0i^» 


CHAPTER  IV. 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  ICE. 


■1  •; 


IS." 


The  stores  of  ice  met  with  in  high  northern  latitudes 
have  naturally  given  rise  to  an  idea,  that  the  farther 
north  the  navigator  proceeds,  the  more  obstruction 
has  he  reason  to  apprehend  from  the  presence  of  that 
body.  Recent  observations,  and  the  experience  of 
many  years,  have  helped  to  remove  that  delusion. 
Wherever  an  extensive  sea  or  ocean  to  the  northward 
has  been  met  with,  the  less  has  ice  been  found  to  pre- 
vail, and  it  is  only  in  confined  waters,  such  as  are 
bounded  by  approximate  lands,  that  heavy  or  thick 
ice  is  seen. 

Experience  has  proved  that  the  freezing  takes 
place  thus.  In  the  shore  of  some  island  or  large  pro- 
montory, where  the  rock  is  present  in  great  substance, 
if  the  wind  be  favourable  to  the  change,  the  surface 
of  the  sea  forms  into  small  irregular  cakes,  generally 
hexagonal,  interspersed  with  others  of  smaller  size 
and  similar  form  ;*  and  if  the  congelation  continue, 
these  soon  coalesce,  and  form  a  surface  very  little  di- 
versified ;  and  after  some  time  the  icy  mass  extends 
itself,  mostly  towards  the  wind,  then  blowing,  thicken- 

*  It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  when  a  vessel  sails  in  among  this 
ice,  as  noticed  in  the  Journal,  the  wind  instantly  falls  nearly  to  a 
calm. 


in  'i 


m 


t^giumKuimtsiir '  rr^'ism-atm 


7b 


ARCTIC  ICE. 


ing  and  spreading  thus,  until,  a  time  incredibly  short, 
a  field  of  ice  is  formed  leagues  in  extent,  perfectly  flat 
and  even.  Snow  afterwards  falling  gives  this  ice  a 
firmer  consistence ;  and  as  any  partial  thaw  of  the 
snow  may  afterwards  take  place,  the  disf>oIved  liquid, 
having  no  way  of  flowing  off,  lodges  on  the  surface  of 
the  field,  and  congeals.  By  this  process,  in  the  course 
of  the  winter,  all  the  inlets,  straits,  and  narrow  bays 
are  chained  together  by  a  common  tie.  The  first 
formation  of  the  ice  is  called  young  ice. 

It  sometimes  happens  that  the  winds  or  currents 
not  coming  to  act  on  some  portions  of  the  field  ice, 
which  is  the  name  of  it  when  properly  and  extensively 
formed,  the  vast  tract  may  remain  stationary  in  the 
place  where  it  was  originally  formed,  and  continue  to 
increase  in  thickness  for  more  than  one  winter,  as  has 
been  known  to  happen  in  the  Waygat  Sound,  so  as  to 
be  of  a  depth  of  from  five  to  ten  fathoms,  Avhen  the 
tide  or  thaw  has  forced  it  from  its  lodgment.  This 
ice  is  usually  of  saltish  taste;  but  trial  to  that  effect 
is  mostly  made  upon  pieces  that  have  been  rendered 
porous,  or,  as  the  sailors  call  them,  rotten,  from  the 
increased  temperature  of  the  seawater. 

When  one  of  these  fields  of  ice  appears  in  the  hori- 
zon a  peculiar  brightness  is  observed  to  be  reflected 
on  the  air ;  and  as  there  is  generally  present  some 
vapour  above  the  ice,  the  brightness  is  somewhat  of  a 
yellow  tinge.  A  strong  wind  blowing  over  one  of 
those  fields  of  ice,  which  are  usually,  if  not  always 
covered  with  snow,  the  frozen  snow  is  drifted  along 
the  clouds,  and  is  peculiarly  annoying,  both  from  the 
increased  cold  and  the  sharpness  of  the  particles. 


:V:: ' 


ARCTIC   ICR. 


77 


( ?» 


The  sailors  call  those  drifts  the  barbers,  from  the 
effects  produced  by  them  upon  the  face.  Mr.  Ellis 
represents  this  drift  of  snow  in  Hudson's  Bay,  coming 
with  a  northwesterly  wind,  excessively  keen,  as  small 
as  grains  of  sand. 

On  the  approach  of  spring,  the  winds,  becoming 
violent,  stir  the  sea  \ery  much,  and  this  field  ice  then 
breaks  up,  and  being  carried  forward,  the  pieces, 
crushing  against  each  other,  produce  smaller  ones, 
nntil  the  greater  part  is  reduced  to  inconsiderable 
fragments;  and  these  again,  by  the  violence  of  suc- 
ceeding winds,  and  the  tossing  of  the  waves,  are 
heaped  rudely  on  each  other,  and  form  what  seamen 
call  a  pack  of  ice.  The  pack  afterwards  separating, 
the  force  of  current,  or  some  point  of  land,  perhaps, 
breaks  the  aggregation  into  a  less  extensive  and  scat- 
tered train,  which  is  then  called  a  stream  of  ice.  The 
packed  ice  is  most  dangerous  to  ships;  for,  if  a  vessel 
have  the  misfortune  to  be  involved  in  such  a  situation, 
and  it  come  to  blow  severely,  the  whole  weight  of 
this  body  presses  against  her  sides;  and  instances 
have  been  known  wherein  a  ship  so  circumstanced  has 
been  crushed  like  an  egg-shell :  or  should  her  timbers 
be  able  to  resist  the  terrible  force  of  these  fragments, 
they  will  continue  to  pile  over  one  nother  like  rocks, 
and  finally  either  break  or  overwhelm  the  vessel  by 
their  weight.  In  such  ca?e,  all  hands  must  quit  her, 
and  provide  for  their  safety  as  well  as  they  can. 

Another  kind  of  ice  remains  for  observation,  in  many 
respects  differing  from  the  former,  and  which  has  long 
engaged  the  attention  of  the  naturalist;  that  is,  the 
ice  berg.     From  chemical   experiments,  it  is   well 


I 


If 


I 


78 


ARCTIC  ICE. 


•?  1 


known  that  the  freezing  process  approximates  to  that 
of  boiling  in  its  elfects.     The  result  in  both  is  nearly 
alike.       For    instance,    seawater  boiled   evaporates 
nearly  free  from  the  salts  which  it  is  known  to  contain 
in  combination.     If  the  vapour  so  raised  be  condensed, 
the  quantity  of  water  free  from  salt  is  nearly  two 
thirds  of  the  whole.     Repeated  distillations  will  make 
the  product  more   pure;  but  this  proportion   rudely 
taken  is  tolerably  near  the  truth.     Now  it  is  known 
also,  by  those  who  have  had  an  opportunity  of  ascer- 
taining the  fact,  that  about  two  thirds  of  the  substance 
of  the  ice  berg  is  fresh  water.     Ships  going  into  the 
Greenland  seas  and  Davis's  Straits  in  pursuit   of  the 
whale,  are  accustomed  to  have  on  board  only  a  sup- 
ply of  water  for  the  voyage  out,  as  they  are  sure  to 
have  an  abundance  for  consumption,   both   when  on 
station  there,  and  on  return  from  the  ice  bergs,  or,  as 
they  are  called,  islands  of  ice. 

Frequently  on  those  immense  masses,  which  are 
sometimes  more  than  a  mile  in  extent,  there  are  found 
large  lakes  of  fresh  waters  formed  by  the  action  of  the 
sun  upon  their  summits,  and  from  the  snow  with  which 
they  are  generally  covered.  On  days,  when  the  state 
of  the  atmosphere  is  favourable  to  evaporation,  these 
bergs  are  capped  with  a  little  fog,  like  a  mountain 
peak.  Sometimes  the  evaporation  is  so  great  as  to 
envelope  the  ice  island  altogether,  and  render  it  in- 
visible, at  which  time  it  is  certain  destruction  for  a 
ship  to  come  to  windward  of  it;  for  the  tremendous 
chance  is  that  she  may  come  foul  of  it,  a  fate  infinitely 
worse  than  were  the  vessel  to  encounter  a  rock. 
Unless  a  favourable  wind,  or  the  providential  set  of 


#» 


r^ 


ARCTIC  ICE. 


79 


#. 


tide,  aid  in  moving  her  from  this  formidable  associate, 
the  ship  is  in  immediate  danger  of  being  buried  be- 
neath the  ruins  of  the  icy  mountain,  which  are  con- 
stantly tumbhng  from  a  height  above  the  elevation  of 
the  mast,  or  the  constant  indraught  against  its  sharp 
edges  dashes  her  to  pieces.  In  this  awful  emergency 
the  men  are  active  in  taking  to  their  boats  without 
consideration  of  any  thing  but  to  save  their  lives. 
One  half  the  vessels  that  are  every  year  lost  in  the 
fisheries  are  owing  to  accidents  of  this  kind,  whence  it 
is  one  of  the  great  concerns  of  the  watch  upon  deck 
to  look  out  sharply  for  fear  of  falling  in  with  an  ice 
berg. 

The  numerous  opinions  hitherto  advanced  on  the 
origin  of  those  stupendous  masses  of  congelation,  have 
been  advanced  by  persons  who  never  had  an  oppor- 
tunity of  seeing  the  place  whence  they  come.  They 
are  usually  seen  surrounded  by  field  ice,  when  out  at 
sea,  that  is,  out  of  sight  of  land.  They  are  also  found 
frequently  imbedded  in  field  ice,  near  the  land  in  the 
bays  and  fiords,  (p.  fiors,  creeks,)  where  they  are 
often  grounded  on  the  rocks.  A  ridge  of  submarine 
mountains,  running  across  the  straits  from  Reef  KoU 
to  the  American  land,  is  another  theatre  wherein  they 
are  arrested.  I'he  peaks  beneath,  at  times  sur- 
rounded with  streams  of  ice,  resemble  an  extensive 
city,  with  its  towers,  churches  and  monuments.  North 
of  Disko  and  of  North-east  Bay  there  is  a  deep  recess, 
to  the  southward  of  Black  Hook,  where  the  tide 
stream  forces  in  a  vast  number  of  ice  islands,  so  much 
that  the  place  is  by  seamen  called  Bergy  Bay.  Some 
ice  bergs  retain  their  situation  a  great  length  of  time 


^fo 


vf 


Mi 


80 


ARCTIC  ICE. 


h;~ . 


tfl 


ill  particular  places,  and  arc  recognised  year  after 
year  by  the  whale  hunters. 

It  would  be  an  endless  task  to  enumerate  the  va- 
riety of  their  forms ;  some  peaked  like  a  mountain ; 
others  with  high,  flat,  table  summits ;  and  many  with 
Gothic  arches  in  them,  frequently  quite  through,  and 
of  more  than  100  feet  in  height.  A  violent  wind 
often  upsets  such  as  become  topheavy  from  the  waves 
lessening  their  bulk  below.  One  particular  form  of 
berg  is  most  deserving  of  notice,  and  that  is  at  present 
to  be  seen  in  Marshal's  Bay,  which  lies  to  the  north- 
\vard  of  the  Frow,  or  Women's  Islands.  There  are 
two  remarkable  ber^s  of  the  description  which  sailors 
call  ragged  bergs.  One  of  these  is  at  least  two  miles 
in  circumference,  and  its  upper  part  is  turreted  with 
irregular  square  pillars  at  short  intervals  from  each 
other,  and  with  flat  tops.  These  pillars  have  a  ba- 
saltic shape  in  the  llancy  of  an  observer,  and  form  the 
remarkable  character  of  this  kind  of  berg.  The  pil- 
lars are  about  thirty  feet  in  height ;  and  the  base  on 
which  they  stand  is  at  least  100  feet  above  the  surface 
of  the  sea,  and  has  the  appearance  of  being  rent  from 
some  larger  mass  with  great  violence.  There  are 
numerous  other  immense  bergs  in  the  same  bay,  but 
this  is  the  most  remarkable. 

Among  the  many  names  of  respectable  authority 
mentioned,  as  having  offered  an  opinion  with  regard 
to  the  formation  of  the  ice  bergs,  is  that  of  Capt.  Mid- 
dleton.  He  accounts  for  them  by  supposing  them  as 
originally  formed  in  the  inlets  or  firths  of  Greenland, 
whence  they  are  carried  by  a  deluge  or  land  flood, 
which  breaks  them  loose,  and  forces  them  into  the 


\K(T1C   ICE. 


81 


open  soa,  rather  increasing  than  thniiiiishing  in  bulk, 
whore  they  continue  floating  about,  until,  alter  a  lapse 
of  some  liundreds  of  years,  they  finally  become  dis- 
solved between  the  fiftieth  and  fortieth  degrees. 
Ca})t.  Middleton  further  states  that  this  deluge,  or 
land  Hood,  occurs  about  a  regular  period  of  seven 
vears.  Effede  also  asserts  from  his  own  knowledije, 
that  the  ice  bergs  are  pieces  of  the  ice  mountains  on 
the  land,  whence  they  are  torn  by  land  floods,  and 
carried  out  to  sea. 

Now,  as  to  Capt.  Middleton's  opinion,  the  account 
of  the  periodical  deluge  will  to  some  appear  rather 
apocryphal ;  and  as  to  the  bergs  being  formed  in  the 
inlets  and  firths,  it  is  equally  doubtful,  as  they  are 
either  forced  into  those  situations  by  the  stream  of 
tide  externally  from  north  and  north-west ;  or  are 
driven  down  from  the  internal  seas  in  the  northern 
parts  of  Greenland,  into  some  of  those  numerous 
firths,  or  rather  straits,  where  their  enormous  bulk 
frequently  causes  an  obstruction  to  the  current,  until 
the  waters  increase  to  such  power  as  to  drive  every 
thing  before  them.  Capt.  Middleton's  second  asser- 
tion also  is  not  supported  by  fact,  as  these  ice  bergs 
are  constantly  moving  southward  r:  be  dissolved,  are 
in  continual  diminution,  and  few  of  he  immense  num- 
bers annually  seen  are  recognised  in  the  succeeding 
years,  the  whole  of  those  that  pass  the  latitude  oi" 
Reef  Koll  regularly  undergoing  dissolution. 

The  opinion  of  Egede  is  probably  accurate,  so  far 
as  he  has  been  an  eyewitness.  It  is  likely  that  the 
ice  mountains  which  he  saw,  and  which  were  stained 
brown  by  contact  with  rocks,  induced  him  to  conchide 

n 


I 

I 


.t  ^< 


«2 


Aiujiu;  Id-. 


I 


Pil 


that  tliry  must  have  (k'scciulecl  iVom  hi^h  sitimtiona 
oil  tlie  lantl.  Tliis,  however,  niaj  rather  l)e  explained 
by  tliese  bergs  liaviiig  received  the  brown  tinge,  by 
striking  against  rocks,  or  jutting  points  of  land,  in 
their  passage  into  the  sea.  (Voni  tlic  original  place  in 
•which  they  had  been  formed.  Mr.  Ellis  states,  that 
no  ice  mountains  were  to  be  seen  in  Repulse  Bay, 
which  is  in  the  bottom  of  Hudson's  Bay. 

Had  any  of  those  gentlemen  been  so  high  as  the 
seventy-seventh  or  seventy-eighth  degree  of  latitude 
in  Davis's  Straits,  they  would  have  an  easy  means  of 
accounting  for  this  phenomenon.  In  the  view  of  the 
extensive  chain  of  islands  (to  which  I  have  presumed 
to  give  the  name  of  the  Linna^an  Isles)  which  stretch 
across  the  straits  east  and  west,  very  nearly  in  a  cir- 
cular curve,  as  far  as  the  power  of  vision  can  ascer- 
tain, there  lies  an  immense  continent  of  ice,  rising  to- 
wards the  pole,  and  towards  the  islands  before  men- 
tioned, descending  like  the  regular  declivity  of  the 
land  mentioned  by  Bruce  in  the  approach  to  the  sour- 
ces of  the  Nile.  In  this  descent  innumerable  chan- 
nels are  visible,  eaten  away  by  the  snow  which  is  dis- 
solved annually  under  the  presence  of  the  sun.  In 
some  places  it  out-tops  the  islands,  but  leans  upon 
them  all ;  and  it  is  probably  owing  to  this  very  chain 
of  islands  presenting  an  impenetrable  barrier,  that 
the  descent  of  larger  portions  of  the  icy  continent 
have  not  before  now  carried  their  chilling  aspect  into 
southern  climates. 

There  can  be,  therefore,  in  my  humble  opinion,  no 
doubt  on  the  subject  as  to  the  original  situation  of  the 
ice  bergs.     During  the  presence  of  a  perpetual  sun, 


<..,/  .l:..:: 


■4* 


ARC  tic  ic.r.. 


«;^ 


tlic  iiilUiencc  of  tliat  luminary  is  exorcised  with  ex- 
traordinary forte  upon  tlie  icy  continent,  and  causes 
those  iinfnense  niasses  to  l)e  rent  asunder  from  the 
continent,  whence  tliey  are  precipitated  into  the  sea, 
and  commence  their  progress  to  the  southward.  Car- 
ried thither  hy  the  tide  stream,  and  under  the  force  of 
a  strong-  wind,  they  move  along  usually  at  the  rate  of 
two  tnilcs  an  hour,  sometimes  impelling  before  them 
fields  of  ice  whole  leagues  in  extent.  I  have  myself 
heard  the  reports  of  these  terrible  disruptions,  and 
the  noise  was  as  loud  as  thunder.  In  their  way  to 
the  southward  these  bergs  break  with  similar  report, 
and  finally  fall  ijito  small  pieces,  and  form  streams  of 
ice,  which  the  sailors  distinguish  by  their  glassy  blue 
colour  to  contain  fresh  water,  and  from  them  often 
collect  a  quantity  for  supply.  Many  of  the  bergs  are 
traversed  by  blue  veins,  which  are  chasms  filled  with 
congealed  snow  water. 

The  ragged  bergs  so  particularly  noticed  are  good 
proof  of  what  is  above  stated,  as  they  are  evidently  a 
portion  of  the  lower  part  of  the  continent,  which  had 
been  channelled  by  the  dissolved  snow  as  stated.  The 
columnar  summits  are  nothing  more  than  those  parts 
which  stood  between  the  streams.  Such  as  are 
aground,  or  have  been  so  on  rocks,  are  easily  known 
by  having  a  regular  tide  mark  on  them,  and,  for  fear 
of  latent  danger,  they  are  to  be  avoided.  The  ice 
bergs  met  in  Hudson's  Straits  and  Bays  descend  from 
the  ice  continent  above  the  Linnaean  Isles.  Those 
met  with  in  the  Atlantic  come  from  Spitzbergen. 


I' 


'M} 


1: 

'I 

5   5 


I 


■  I 


'I  / 


r'.. 


(  II APTKU  \ 


Ai:<  •I'll;  /ooLo<;\. 


/|^ 


l^ir.  -luijjt'cln  ol  zool(>;;y  that  laiiie  uruler  obbervatioH 
HI  till'  iiortlieni  seas,  parliculaily  in  Davis's  Strait, 
wore  pretty  numerous.  The  muiii  objeet  of  the  voyage 
for  which  the  ship  had  been  sent  out,  being  the  pursuit 
of  the  whale,  gave  continual  opportunities  of  traversing 
the  latter  sea  in  many  directions,  and  consequently  ol' 
seeing  most  of  the  animals,  those  especially  of  the 
larirer  sorts,  which  are  there  to  be  met  with.  The 
favourable  state  of  the  season,  moreover,  and  the  pre- 
valence of  north-easterly  winds  at  an  early  part  of  the 
spring,  produced  unusually  solvent  eflects  on  the  field 
ice,  so  that  the  increasing  power  of  the  sun's  heat 
caused  it  to  break  up  much  sooner  than  had  been 
known  for  many  years  before,  by  which  means  the 
ships  had  access  to  higher  latitudes  than  they  had 
been  ever  known  to  reach  at  any  former  period.  The 
arrangement  of  such  animals  as  I  have  seen  is  con- 
formable to  the  system  of  Linnasus,  according  to  the 
last  edition  of  his  celebrated  work  by  Gmelin. 

Trichechus  llosmarus  (the  morse.)  This  clumsy  and 
ferocious  animal  is  rarely  met  with  on  the  western 
shores  of  Greenland:  his  favourite  haunts  are  on  the 
side  of  Hudson's  Bay,  and  the  Island  of  Resolution. 

In  the  latter  place  they  are  seen  in  great  numbers  ; 
but  being  gregarious,  and  accustomed  to  come  to  each 


4  -^>-- 


^i!»**:* 


.^: 


ARCTIC  ZOOLOGY. 


85 


other's  assistance  when  attacked,  tliey  are  seldom 
hunted.  Its  tusks  arc  considered  very  vaUiable,  being 
of  firmer  consistence,  and  a  better  and  more  perma- 
nent white  than  ivory.  Tlie  oil  of  the  morse  is  much 
esteemed  for  its  purity.  The  hide  is  convertible  to 
many  useful  purposes,  particularly  on  board  the  whale 
ships,  where  it  is  employed  to  prevent  the  masts,  &c. 
from  chafing.  The  usual  food  of  the  morse  is  sea- 
weeds, corallines,  and  shell-fiah.     It  is  not  carnivorous. 

Phoca  (the  seal.)  A  great  many  species  of  this  ani- 
mal are  met  with  along  the  western  coast  of  Green- 
land. The  most  remarkable  for  numbers  and  fre- 
quency arc  the  P.  vitulina,  or  seacalf;  P.  Grtcnlandi- 
ca,  or  harp-seal ;  P.  hispida,  or  rough-seal ;  P.  cris- 
tata,  or  crested  seal ;  and  P.  barbata,  or  great-seal. 
Of  these  the  first  is  most  numerous,  and  is  the  chief 
wealth  of  iha  Greenlander.  Every  part  of  the  ani- 
mal is  converted  to  some  useful  purpose.  The  skin 
serves  for  clothes,  and  is  applied  to  the  covering  of 
the  boats  and  tents,  and  it  serves  also  for  beds.  The 
fat  is  the  chief  luxury  of  the  Greenlander's  habita- 
tion ;  and  the  tendons  supply  tlie  place  of  thread, 
being  easily  separated  into  very  fine  fibres,  and  not  at 
all  injured  by  water. 

The  phoca  vitulina,  like  the  other  animals  of  its 
kind,  is  gregarious,  or  rather  they  live  in  families,  the 
old  male  being  attended  by  his  progeny  for  several 
generations.  The  teeth  arc  \ery  sharp,  and  the  ani- 
mal bites  terribly,  sometimes  to  the  destruction  of  the 
poor  Greenlander,  as  has  been  mentioned  already. 
The  habits  of  the  seal  are  filthy,  and  singularly  mis- 
diievous.     A  perpetual  tyrant  over  weaker  animals, 


■I' 


..1 


ri     .1 


86 


ARCTIC  ZOOLOGV. 


W 


f 


I?? 


he  is  also  an  ofjjcct  of  constant  pursuit  with  otliers- 
The  white  bear  is  constantly  on  the  watch  to  surprise 
the  seal  when  sleeping  on  the  ice;  but  the  latter  has 
generally  safe  resources,  talciiig  possession  of  a  single 
piece  of  ice  from  which  he  may  command  a  good  view 
of  all  around,  and  so  that  the  proximity  to  the  water 
may  aiford  a  ready  escape.  Sometimes  they  contrive 
to  make  holes  in  the  held  ice,  through  which  they 
crawl,  and  never  venture  far  from  that  situation  for 
fear  of  being  surprised  by  the  bear  or  the  Uskee-me. 
They  are  easily  stunned  by  a  stroke  on  the  forehead; 
but  from  this  state  they  often  recover ;  and,  if  not 
immediately  despatched,  are  desperate  in  their  re- 
venge. The  phoca  vitulina,  from  constitution,  is  sub- 
ject to  the  most  violent  impulses  of  anger,  and  no- 
thing can  withstand  his  rage  when  provoked.  I  have 
seen  one  of  them  after  being  hoisted  on  board,  from 
the  boat  in  which  it  had  been  carried  apparently  dead, 
from  the  blows  inflicted  on  its  head  upon  the  ice,  un- 
expectedly recover,  and,  seizing  in  its  teeth  the  near- 
est object  within  reach,  tear  away  such  a  portion  as  it 
could  grasp.  Even  after  death  this  irritation  is 
strikingly  manifest,  as  the  muscular  parts  of  the  ani- 
mal, though  stripped  of  the  external  integuments,  still 
retain  the  principle  of  vitality,  and  continue  starting 
and  quivering  long  after  dismemberment  of  the  body 
has  taken  place.  Distinct  portions  of  the  flesh  exhibit 
similar  appearances;  and  it  has  often  occurred  that 
when  under  the  hasty  process  of  taking  off  the  seal's 
skin  and  blubber,  and  although  the  animal  has  pre- 
viously bled  in  profusion,  as  it  would  seem  to  exhaus- 
tion, yet  in  that  mutilated  state  it  has  been  seen,  when 


s  \ 


'■'sri*'    ■  - 


ARCTIC  ZOOLOGY. 


87 


,!. 


Iieaved  overboard,  to  swim  off  with  vivacity.  These 
seals  are  in  best  condition  in  May  and  June;  but  in 
the  succeeding  months  they  become  quite  lean  and 
sliy,  and  they  are  then  seldom  looked  after  for  the 
sake  of  their  fat.  Seal  oil  is  considered  much  more 
valuable  than  the  whale  oil,  and  is  carefully  kept 
apart  for  particular  purposes.  The  greatest  numbers 
are  killed  annually  at  the  Spitzbergen  fishery,  and  in 
that  part  of  Davis's  Strait  which  is  known  by  the 
name  of  the  South-west  Country,  about  the  sixty- 
fourth  degree  of  latitude. 

In  the  higher  latitudes  to  the  north-westward  of 
Disko,  the  phoca  barbata  is  mostly  found  ;  and  they 
are  usually  of  a  great  size,  many  of  more  than  twelve 
feet  in  length,  and  of  proportionate  magnitude  of  body ; 
but  from  the  persecutions  of  the  natives,  and  the  ad- 
vanced season  when  the  ships  get  so  far,  very  few  of 
these  are  killed.  This  seal  migrates  in  families,  the 
elder  ones  leading  the  van,  whilst  the  younger  proge- 
ny follow  confusedly  behind,  playing  a  thousand  awk- 
ward tricks,  tumbling  and  frisking  along  in  the  highest 
glee,  aijd  often  in  the  extravagance  of  their  fun  fling- 
ing themselves  quite  out  of  the  water.  The  sailors 
give  to  such  assemblages  the  humorous  name  of 
*'  seals'  weddings."  The  chief  line  of  migration  which 
they  appear  to  move  on  is  westward,  and  the  groups 
\vhich  I  observed  invariably  went  in  that  direction. 

Canis  Familiaris  (the  dog.) — This  useful  and  faith- 
ful animal  is  peculiarly  valuable  to  the  Greenlander, 
serving  him  in  the  capacity  of  a  horse  to  draw  his 
sledge  over  the  snow,  which  he  does  with  astonishing 
obedience.     For  this  purpose,   they   are  commonly 


^^ 


•1" 


88 


/VllCTIC  ZOOLOGY. 


I:f 


h     I 


joked  in  pairs,  and  twelve  are  the  usual  number  em- 
ployed. The  harness  is  nothing  but  light  thong  made 
of*  seal  or  deer-skin.  The  figure  of  the  Greenland- 
dog  is  singular.  Of  a  size  between  the  wolf  and  fox, 
lie  seems  to  partake  of  the  appearance  of  both,  but 
mostly  resembles  the  latter.  The  snout  is  pointed ; 
the  ears  short  and  erect ;  the  tail  is  bushy  and  pendu- 
lous, but  a  little  recurved ;  the  body  is  covered  with 
long  rough  hair,  which  is  always  erect,  so  as  to  give 
the  animal  in  appearance  a  much  larger  size  than  natu- 
ral ;  and  the  feet  are  small  and  neat.  It  is  said  to  be 
little  accustomed  to  bark,  even  in  the  chase.  In  times 
of  scarcity,  this  faithful  creature  serves  for  food  to  his 
master,  and  its  skin,  from  its  long  warm  fur,  affords 
comfortable  clothing.  It  is  chiefly  made  into  caps, 
to  be  trafficked  with  the  whale  hunters  every  summer. 
The  colour  is  variable,  mostly  black  or  gray. 

Canis  Lagopus  (the  arctic  fox.) — This  animal  difters 
considerably  from  the  common  fox,  and  scarcely  de- 
serves that  name.  It  is  very  variable  in  its  colour  at 
different  seasons,  being  in  winter  found  generally 
white,  and  in  summer  it  exhibits  a  bluish  tinge.  The 
tail  is  straight  and  bushy,  and  the  feet  very  much 
covered  with  hair;  it  is  from  the  latter  circumstance  the 
animal  takes  its  specific  distinction.  It  is  seen  rarely  in 
high  situations,  being  chiefly  near  the  shores,  where  it 
preys  upon  the  ptarmigan,  ducks,  and  smaller  birds, 
and  sometimes  even  on  berries  and  shell-fish.  It  barks 
like  a  fox,  but  has  not  the  disagreeable  fetor  of  that 
animal.  It  assimilates  also  to  the  latter  in  being  ob-. 
served  to  burrow  where  the  earth  is  favourable  to 
such  an  operation.     It  is  rarely  met  with  in  Green- 


/,( 


R  ■ 


ARCTIC  ZOOLOGY. 


89 


land,  on  account  of  its  being  constantly  hunted  for  the 
sake  of  its  very  valuable  fur. 

Ursus  Maritimus^  (the  polar  bear,)  called  also  the 
white  bear,  and  Greenland  bear,  from  the  situation  in 
which  it  is  usually  found.  The  polar  bear  is  gene- 
rally enough  known  to  make  a  description  unnecessa- 
ry. Its  appearance  is  clumsy  and  awkward.  The 
shuffling  manner  in  which  it  moves  would  make 
one  suppose  its  motion  very  slow,  yet  its  speed  is 
considerable.  It  is  impatient  of  heat,  and  seems 
to  have  no  other  residence  than  the  ice,  on  which 
it  is  found  at  immense  distances  from  land;  but  as 
it  derives  all  its  sustenance  from  the  sea,  such  as 
fish,  seals,  dead  whales,  and  the  minor  cetaceous  ani- 
mals, that  is  its  proper  situation.  The  battles  be- 
tween the  polar  bear  and  morse  are  truly  terrible ; 
but  the  seal,  P.  vitiilinn,  is  by  no  means  a  match  for 
such  an  adversary,  and  his  only  security  is  flight.  The 
aspect  of  the  bear  is  horrid,  from  his  eye  being  co- 
vered with  a  nictitant  membrane,  similar  to  that  with 
which  the  eyes  of  birds  are  provided.  This  mem- 
brane is  highly  useful  to  the  animal,  by  sheathing  his 
eye,  and  protecting  the  sight  from  the  strong  glare  of 
the  snow.  His  power  of  smelling  is  very  great;  and 
the  sailors  take  advantage  of  this  faculty  to  entice 
bim  within  their  reach,  by  burning  a  herring,  the 
smell  ot  which  never  fails  to  attract  the  animal. 

When  attacked,  he  rears  himself  erect  on  his  hinder 
feet,  and  exposes  his  breast  unknowingly  to  the  dan- 
ger, when  the  deadly  spear  is  easily  buried  in  his 
vitals.      Instances  have  occurred  when  the   savage 

12 


I 


90 


ARCTIC    ZOOLOGY. 


■/    v 


'  ■'  I- 


I  H 

1  i 


ivi  , 


animaK  feeling  the  effects  of  the  lance,  has  drawn  it 
forth  again  with  his  paw  and  made  his  escape.  If  a 
female,  and  accompanied  by  her  young,  she  will 
never  forsake  them,  though  ever  so  badly  wounded  ; 
but,  unmindful  of  her  own  safety,  will  use  every  exer- 
tion for  the  preservation  of  her  cubs.  The  female  is  gra- 
vid from  six  to  seven  months,  and  brings  forth  two.  It 
is  a  very  rare  occurrence  to  see  two  old  bears  in  com- 
pany ;  they  are  seen  mostly  solitary,  or  the  female 
and  her  young  ones.  When  looking  out  for  prey 
they  stand  erect  on  their  hinder  feet,  which  gives  them 
a  more  extensive  prospect  over  the  ice.  They  swim 
with  great  facility  and  force,  and  by  this  means  pass 
from  one  field  of  ice  to  another.  They  can  make  very 
little  resistance  when  attacked  in  the  water,  unless 
they  can  lay  hold  of  the  boat's  gunwale  with  their 
paws,  to  prevent  which  the  sailors  often  chop  them 
off". 

Monodon  Monoceros^  (the  narval,  or  sea  unicorn.) — 
It  is  mostly  in  very  high  latitudes,  about  the  seventy- 
fifth  degree  and  upwards,  that  this  animal  is  found. 
Its  horn,  as  it  is  called,  is  valuable,  being  considered 
excellent  ivory.  This  tooth,  properly  so  called,  issues 
from  the  fore  part  of  the  upper  jaw,  just  above  the 
mouth.  There  are  always  two  of  these  teeth,  but  one 
only  attains  the  full  growth,  the  matter  of  the  smaller 
being  absorbed  during  the  increase  of  the  larger : 
hence  the  name  of  the  animal  appears  badly  assigned. 
Diodon  would  evidently  be  more  appropriate.  The 
males  alone  are  furnished  with  this  formidable  wea- 
pon ;  the  females  being  destitute  of  it.  The  mono- 
don is  a  beautiful  animal.     The  skin  is  white,  and 


ARCTIC    ZOOLOGY. 


91 


i 


elegantly  mottled  on  the  back  and  sides  with  black  ; 
the  fins  and  tail  are  black.  Like  the  whale,  balasna 
mysticetus,  in  genera,  structure,  its  habits  are  friendly 
to  that  animal ;  and  they  are  frequently  seen  associat- 
ed together.  Their  food  is  similar  ;  and  the  only 
distinction  from  the  character  of  its  enormous  compa- 
nion, as  to  habits,  is  that  the  monodon  is  gregarious. 
The  usual  size  of  the  monodon  is  fourteen  feet,  and 
sometimes  a  little  more ;  and  the  tooth  or  horn  is  of 
an  average  length  of  seven  feet.  The  mouth  is  very 
small ;  its  greatest  expansion  being  not  more  than  six 
inches.  The  tongue  is  very  short,  immoveable,  and 
placed  very  far  behind.  The  passage  to  the  stomach 
is  very  small,  not  three  inches  over. 

When  a  number  of  these  animals  are  together,  they 
divert  themselves  in  playing,  when,  their  teeth  ap- 
pearing above  the  water,  as  if  brandished  about,  have 
a  singular  effect ;    and  the  clattering  noise  they  pro- 
duce in  this  confused  gamboling,  would  lead  an  inat- 
tentive spectator  to  suppose  that  some  hostile  pro- 
ceeding was  going  forward,  which  is  by  no  means  the 
case.     This  has  reference  to  the  pacific  habits  of  the 
monodon ;  but  certainly  such  an  extraordinary  provi- 
sion of  annoyance  could  not  have  been  dispensed  for 
ornament  sake  ;  and  though  the  creature  being  desti- 
tute of  teeth  in  the  mouth,  and  subsisting  on  mollusca 
and  marine  vegetables,   seems  little   calculated  for 
destructive  or  predatory  life  ;    yet  this  tremendous 
weapon  must  render  him  formidable  to  every  inhabi- 
tant of  the  deep  that  obtrudes  upon  his   peaceful 
haunts. 

It  has  been  said  that  the  monodon  attacks  the- 


;E 


M 


W 


!'■        I 


r,  I 


>. 


.1 


bi 


I 


l\ 


n  ■  I 


*i  .. 


V 


'-  -j*t_- 


92 


ARCTIC    ZOOLOGY. 


whale.  No  doubt  such  a  conflict  occasionally  comeB 
under  observation ;  but  it  is  not  the  simple,  harmless, 
friendly,  black  whale,  that  becomes  the  object  of  re- 
tribution for  injury  received.  Such  tremendous  reta- 
liation is  most  frequently  inflicted  on  the  bala^na  physa- 
lus,  the  flnner,  whose  depredations  are  indiscriminate- 
ly exercised  on  every  living  creature  that  is  inferior  in 
muscular  power  ;  and  few  else  exist  in  those  regions, 
and  in  that  medium  in  which  animals  of  this  order 
exercise  peculiar  dominion.  The  astonishing  force 
with  which  the  raonodon  urges  his  speed  may  be  con- 
ceived from  the  fact  of  his  tooth  having  been  some- 
times found  driven  through  the  planking  of  vessels 
navigating  the  Atlantic  Ocean ;  the  animal,  in  his 
fury,  doubtless  mistaking  the  body  of  the  vessel  for 
that  of  his  adversary.  In  such  an  onset,  the  tooth  is 
often  snapped  across,  and  is  left  in  the  wood  through 
which  it  penetrated^ 

The  monodon  uses  this  instrument  for  the  purpose 
of  digging  the  sea  plants  from  the  rocks  at  great 
depths,  not  alone  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  tender 
esculents,  but  with  the  intent  of  driving  from  their 
retreats  the    shrimps,  mollusca^  vermes,  and  other 
minute  animals  that  constitute  his  peculiar  food.    The 
spiracles  in  his  crown  are  double ;  but  in  their  exit 
from  the  skin  they  unite  and  form  a  single  aperture, 
through  which  the  animal  respires  in  a  short  and 
scarcely  perceptible  gust.     His  motion,  when  struck 
by   a  harpoon,  is  extremely  confused.     Seldom  de- 
scending much  below  the  surface  of  the  water,  he  is 
easily  taken ;  and  a  few  thrusts  of  the  whale  lance 
are  suflicient  to  effect  the  capture.     The  Greenland- 


,*,   ....i>s#>«-- 


m 


ARCTIC  ZOOLOGY. 


9S 


men  save  notliing  of  the  monodon  but  the  blubber  and 
tooth.  The  fins  and  tail  being  small,  are  not  looked 
upon  as  of  sufficient  value  to  compensate  the  trouble 
of  keeping. 

Balcena  Mysticetus,  (the  common  whale.)   This  huge 
tenant  of  the  sea  is  the  chief  object  of  the  Greenland 
fishery :  and  for  capture  of  this  animal  an  expensive 
fleet  is  annually  fitted  out  under  the  protection  of  the 
British  Government.     No  name  in  zoology  has  been 
more  preposterously  applied  than  that  of  "  fish,"  as 
generally  including  the  balaena.     The  endeavours  of 
Linnaeus  to  establish  a  classification  of  animals  on  the 
principle  of  teeth  being  an  organic  distinction,  expres- 
sive of  the  natural  means  of  prolonging  existence,  is 
justly  the  admiration  of  every  one  who  makes  this 
branch  of  natural  history  a  study.     The  energy  of 
mind,  precision,  and  copious  brevity  of  that  inimitable 
master,  have  done  wonders  for  the  advancement  of 
science ;  and,  like  Bacon,  he  has  added  more  to  the 
mass  of  useful  knowledge  than  all  the  cloud  of  dog- 
matists and  logicians  that  for  centuries  has  oversha- 
dowed the  human  mind. 

In  animals  of  the  cetaceous  order,  however,  the 
usual  arrangement  by  the  teeth,  was  in  the  Linnsean 
system  necessarily  abandoned,  the  distinctions,  as  in- 
sisted on  by  that  great  author,  being  inadequate  to 
generic  character ;  in  place  of  which  the  following  is 
given. 

Order  VII.  Cete. — Spiracles  situate  in  the  crown, 
feet  none,  pectoral  fins  without  nails,  tail  horizontal. 

This  (description  is  liable  to  some  objection,  though^ 
in  general,  sufficiently  accurate  to  distinguish  animals 


II 

if 


i  I  ;■ 


in 


( 


m 


t 


f    I 


91 


ARCTIC  ZOOLOGY. 


'■1 


'■^. 


'1 


h 


of  this  order  from  every  other.     They  are  all  inhabi- 
tants of  the  sea ;  and  all  have  a  peculiar  organization 
of  body,  by  which  they  are  an  intermediate  link  be- 
tween quadrupeds  and  fishes.      Their  bony  frame- 
work is  nearly  similar  in  composition  to  that  of  the 
former,  and  it  exhibits  almost  the  same  appearances 
when  dry.     The    necessity  of  inhaling  atmospheric 
air,  with  its  effects  on  their  blood,  is   also  another 
point  of  comparison  in  which  they  closely  approximate* 
whilst  they  bear  resemblance  to  fishes  in  their  long, 
tapering  figure,  calculated  to  make  a  speedy  passage 
in  the  water.     Destitute  of  hinder  feet,  they  fall  away 
remarkably  from  the  previous  orders  of  mammalia ; 
but  the  spine,  as  in  those  animals,  runs  the  full  length 
of  the  body,  terminating  only  in  the  angle  where  the 
portions  of  the  tail  divide.     The  tail  is  distinct  from 
that   of  fish,    being    unfurnished   with  bone;    being 
formed  of  a  combination  of  cartilaginous,  tendinous, 
and  fatty  substance ;  and  being  placed  horizontally. 
Different  from  fishes  also,  animals  of  the  cetaceous  or- 
der are  provided  with  instruments  similar  to  fins,  but  of 
bony  construction,  much  resembling  the  fore  leg  of 
quadrupeds,  which  to  them  supplies  the  use  of  the 
pectoral  fin  of  fish,  and  of  the  fore  arm  of  animals  ac- 
customed to  grasp  familiar  or   hostile  objects.      A 
stronger  resemblance  to  fish  is  observable  in  others, 
having  a  dorsal  fin ;  but  when  this  comes  to  be  exam- 
ined, it  is  found  to  be  an  elevation  of  spinous  processes 
with  the  common  integuments,  and  not  moveable  in 
the  manner  in  which  fishes  employ  that  appendage. 
Cetaceous  animals  possessed  of  tlie  dorsal  fin  are  usu- 
ally hostile  to  those  destitute  of  it ;  and  those  furnished 


\ 


'*  mm 


1 :2 


ARCTIC  ZOOLOGY. 


95 


with  teetli  are  very  remarkable  for  predaceous  clia- 
racter.  Like  quadrupeds  they  are  all  viviparous ; 
and  from  their  habit  of  suckling  their  offspring,  are 
properly  classed  with  the  mammalia. 

The  head  of  the  bala;na  niysticetus  is  about  one 
third  of  the  length  of  the  body,  but  often  exceeds  that 
dimension.  The  remaining  two  thirds  are  evenly 
divided  by  the  parts  of  generation.  In  the  female  the 
pudendum  is  situated  between  the  mamillary  vessels, 
which  are  closely  adjoining,  in  a  parallel  line;  the 
vent  being  situated  at  a  short  distance  below.  A 
long  groove  up  the  belly  of  the  male  serves  as  a  lodg- 
ment for  the  penis ;  the  testes  being  concealed  be- 
neath the  integuments,  and  not  obvious  to  view.  The 
teats  of  the  female  are  of  strong  cartilaginous  sub- 
stance ;  and  when  drawn  beyond  the  skin,  are  about 
three  inches  in  length.  When  suckling  her  young, 
which  is  most  commonly  an  individual,  the  parent 
turns  on  her  side,  and  has  then  the  advantage  of  tak- 
ing in  a  great  view  with  the  eye  above  water,  when, 
if  any  danger  is  apprehended,  she  instantly  descends, 
carrying  off  her  young  beneath  her  fin.  If  the  young 
whale  happen  to  be  struck,  the  harpooner  is  sure  of 
capturing  the  parent,  as  she  never  forsakes  her  off- 
spring. The  eye  of  the  whale  is  scarcely  larger  than 
that  of  an  ox,  and  is  furnished  with  lids.  The  ear  is 
scarcely  perceptible,  being  a  perforation  not  larger 
than  the  tube  of  a  goose-quill. 

The  balaena  mysticetus,  or  blubber  whale,  has  re- 
ceived its  specific  name  from  the  Scriptural  record  of 
the  adventure  of  Jonas.  Linna;us  has  left  no  expla- 
nation of  many  terms  employed  in  this  manner ;  and 


r 


\ 


J!  m 


\ 


i-j*... 


96 


ARCTIC  ZOOLUUV. 


>li 


^    ft 


I 


■'  It 


■\ 


^ 


conjecture  musl,  as  on  the  present  occasion,  be  em- 
ployed in  aid  of  discovery,  Crantz  has  put  his  au- 
thority forward  in  opposition  to  that  of  the  illustrious 
Swede,  and  states  that  the  squalus  car  charias,  white 
shark,  was  more  likely  to  afford  the  necessary  accom- 
modation for  the  recreant  prophet  than  the  baltena : 
with  the  latter,  however,  one  would  suppose  the  man 
would  have  a  better  chance  of  escape. 

Many  species  of  whale  are  seen  in  the  northern 
seas,  a  certain  degree  of  cold  seeming  necessary  to 
their  habits.  They  arc  observed  to  traverse  the 
western  ocean  as  low  as  the  fiftieth  degree,  but  rarely 
below  the  fifty-fourth  north  latitude.  Of  such  as  fre- 
quent the  seas  about  Spitzbergen,  Davis's  Strait  and 
Hudson's  Bay,  the  balaena  mysticetus  or  common 
black  whale,  B.  physalus  or  finner,  B.  boops  or  pike- 
headed  whale,  and  B.  musculusor  broad-nosed  whale, 
are  the  most  remarkable.  Indeed,  the  distinctions  of 
the  two  latter  species  from  the  finner  are  so  indefinite, 
and  the  animals  are  so  seldom  seen,  that  it  may  be 
supposed,  with  little  injury  to  accurate  description,  that 
they  are  only  varieties  of  the  same  species.  They  shall 
however  be  mentioned  separately  according  to  the  ar- 
rangement in  the  system. 

The  blubber  whale  being  an  object  of  more  decided 
distinction,  on  account  of  the  avidity  with  which  it  is 
pursued  for  the  sake  of  its  commercial  produce,  is  de- 
servedly placed  foremost  as  a  subject  of  natural  curi- 
osity, after  the  diodon*  has  been  exhibited.  Anoma- 
lous of  the  generation  of  quadrupeds,  though  similarly- 


I 


*  Monodon, 


♦  1 


ARCTIC    ZOOLOGY. 


97 


propagated,  and  differing  essentially  from  the  finny 
class,  in  whose  peculiar  medium  they  exist,  and  if 
possible,  farther  removed  from  the  amphibious  animals 
than  from  the  two  former,  the  whales  of  this  specific 
denomination  are  in  characteristics  widely  removed 
from  the  ordinary  classification  of  animals.  The  most 
obvious  notice,  which  a  naturalist  would  take  of  thii^ 
enormous  animal,  would  embrace  its  timidity,  and  its 
immense  volume  of  body,  indicating  at  the  same  time 
resistless  strength.  HeMom,  when  adult,  under  the 
dimension  of  sixty  feet  in  length,  sometimes  attaining 
a  size  half  as  great  again,  and  moving  in  a  medium 
peculiarly  suited  to  his  form,  the  whale  must  be  pos- 
sessed of  tremendous  power;  and  his  efforts  under  the 
influence  of  fear  or  anger  are  truly  awful,  when  man, 
as  observer  of  those  efforts,  compares  his  might  and 
volume  with  such  enlarged  examples  of  muscular 
power. 

One  remarkable  distinction  in  these  animals,  which, 
ns  it  marks  a  good  anatomical  criterion,  and  has  not 
hitherto,  so  far  as  within  my  knowledge,  been  made 
public,  is  that  whales  seem  to  possess  an  extraordinary 
provision  of  arterial  blood.  The  remark  applies  also 
to  seals,  and  almost  all  the  animals,  particularly  of  the 
cetaceous  order,  in  cold  climates.  The  Uskee-me, 
even,  is  oppressed  by  an  overflow  of  that  vital  current, 
when  the  heat  of  summer  forces  a  more  rapid  circula- 
tion. All  those  subsisting  on  assimilated  food,  and 
subjected  nearly  to  similar  temperature,  approximate 
surprisingly  In  constitution.  The  Greenlander  bleeds 
profusely  from  the  nose,  if  no  accident  afford  the 
salutary  evacuation  in  any  other  mode,  during  the 

13 


II 


I, 

,v 


» 


1^ 


MA 


9a 


AUCTIC    ZOOLOGY. 


)  M 


I 


iP  1 


Ml 


■i 


t 


active  and  dangerous  season  of  the  summer ;  nor  does 
he  consider  the  loss  of  blood  on  such  occasions  an 
injury.  Wound  a  seal  about  the  same  time,  that  is, 
before  he  becomes  exhausted  by  the  natural  occupa- 
tions of  the  season,  and  the  profusion  of  arterial  blood 
is  astonishing  for  the  size  of  the  animal.  The  whale 
is  an  extraordinary  proof  of  the  accumulation  which 
this  portion  of  vital  matter  may  attain  in  un  animal's 
frame. 

Early  writers  on  natural  history  have  drawn  con- 
clusions as  to  the  prolongation  of  life,  which  they 
"would  represent  as  indispensable  in  circulation  of  the 
blood.     If  an  animal,   according  to  such  opinion,  is 
obliged  to  live  in  water,  and  occasionally  to  respire 
atmospheric  air,  some  peculiar  organization  of  the 
heart  becomes  a  necessary  means  of  explaining  the 
phenomenon.     What  may  be  the  proper  agency  of 
the  heart  in  the  circulation  of  the  blood,  most  proba- 
bly will  long  remain  to  be  explained.    This  is  applied 
to  the  received  opinion  that  a  passage  in  the  heart, 
called  the  foramen  ovale,  is  essential  to  the  continua- 
tion of  life  in  such  animals  as  dive  long  and  frequently 
under  the  surface  of  water.     The  seal  is  made  a  me- 
morable instance  of  this  necessary  conformation  of 
that  viscus  as  connected  with  the  existing  wants  of 
that  animal.     The  opportunities  aflbrded   me,  how- 
ever, of  examining  the  structure  of  the  seal's  heart 
^vere  far  from  convincing  that  the  foramen  ovale  ex- 
isted in  the  seal.      The  best  investigator  may  be  mis- 
taken from  appearances  ;  but  where  the  eye,  as  well 
as  the  touch,  is  applied  in  evidence,  and  the  alleged 
circumstance  is  not  found,  it  may  be  pronounced  har- 


W    ' 


ARCTIC    ZOOLOGY. 


99 


I 

"^1 


dihood  fo  l)car  out  the  story  by  as^rtion.  I  have 
anxiously  tried  to  ascertain  the  existence  of  such  a 
passaj^e  between  the  chambers  of  the  \ital  reservoir 
in  the  animal  now  mentioned,  but  was  in  no  instance 
able  to  tra^e  any  such  permeation. 

Now,  instead  of  looking  lu  this  accidental  passage 
in  the  heart  as  essential  to  the  continuation  of  life  in 
animals  fhat  seek  their  sustenance  in  water,  a  more 
obvious  resource  may  be  resorted  to  as  explaining 
this  phenomenon  ;  and  no  division  of  animals  presents 
tliis  in  better  form  than  the  cetaceous,  both  from  the 
magnitude  of  the  scale,  and  their  peculiar  habits. 
The  extraordinary  degree  of  warmth,  which  is  evi- 
dent in  the  constitution  of  these  animals,  seems  at 
once  to  prove  the  existence  of  great  abundance  of 
arterial  fluid,  which  is  the  proper  source  of  animal 
heat.  In  the  monodon,  and  B.  mysticetus,  this  is  strong- 
ly evidenced  ;  the  spinal  canal  containing  scarcely 
any  of  the  substance  called  medullary,  and  the  jaw- 
bones, in  their  posterior  foramina,  being  of  immense 
size,  and  like  the  spinal  canal,  exhibiting  a  facia  of 
blood-vessels  of  a  calibre  and  abundance  that  would 
appear  fully  sufficient  to  supply  the  extraordinary 
heat  above  noticed. 

What  may  be  the  functions  of  the  lungs  under  such 
circumstances,  whether  different,  in  increase  or  dimi- 
nution of  action,  from  those  of  quadrupeds  constantly 
living  in  the  medium  of  atmospheric  air,  is  difficult  to 
determine.  Whales,  as  well  as  seals,  sleep  in  such 
situations  as  afford  a  constant  supply  of  air;  the  for- 
mer on  ice  or  rocks,  and  the  latter  at  the  surface  of 
the  sea.    A  circumstance,  however,  which  I  beg  leave 


i 


A 


I 


f 


11 


M 


100 


ARCTIC  i!:00L0GY. 


]    i  '■ 

'  f:-  ' 

'1  \ 

1 

k  ■ 

Ml 


L^  '  ?•  ■ 


ll% 


to  mention,  with  an  expression  of  little  doubt  as  to  the 
accuracy  of  the  account,  would  appear  to  place  in 
considerable  difficulty  an  attempt  at  explaining  the 
true  action  of  the  pulmonary  organ  in  those  animals 
when  in  a  state  of  rest.  I  have  been  assured  by  a  re- 
Bpectable  master  of  a  Davis's  Strait  whaler,  that 
some  few  years  since  a  native  paddled  alongside, 
making  anxious  expression  of  useful  information  which 
he  had  to  communicate.  It  was,  that  he  and  his  com- 
panions had,  during  three  days,  previously  observed 
a  large  whale  sleeping  at  the  bottom  in  a  neighbour- 
ing creek.  On  sending  some  boats  to  the  spot,  and 
splicing  together  some  oars,  by  this  means  sending 
down  a  harpoon,  the  animal  was  struck,  and  subse- 
quently taken.  In  such  case,  does  the  action  of  tlie 
lungs  remain  suspended  .•*  or  does  the  arterial  circula- 
tion proceed  so  as  to  supply  sufficient  vitality  .'* 

When  the  whale  is  struck,  arterial  blood  flows  pro- 
fusely. When  the  progress  of  destruction  advances 
far  enough  to  require  the  exhausted  animal  to  respire 
more  frequently,  he  blows  arterial  blood  mixed  with 
water;  and  when  the  lance  has  been  repeatedly 
plunged  into  his  vitals,  the  column  ascending  from  the 
blow  holes  (spiracles)  is  of  a  vivid  red,  compared  as  it 
has  been,  not  unaptly,  to  the  flame  issuing  from  a  fur- 
nace :  but  when  the  arterial  current  is  exhausted,  and 
the  animal  is  nearly  subdued,  then  the  column  assumes 
a  darker  hue ;  and  as  death  is  nearer,  it  becomes  a 
deep  brown  purple,  till  with  one  immense  effort  of  ex- 
piration the  triumph  is  decided.  At  this  signal  the 
hunters  raise  the  shout  of  death,  and  proceed  to  tovv 
UM'ay  their  enormous  cnptivc. 


ire 
ith 


k;3 
a 


ARCTIC  ZOOLOGV. 


101 


This  question  narrows  exceedingly,  in  ordinary 
view,  if  the  chambers  of  the  heart  be  considered  de- 
cisive of  the  fact.  Such  an  immense  supply  of  arterial 
blood  would  require  an  enlarged  cavity  for  its  recep- 
tion and  further  distribution ;  but  here  again  a  difFicul- 
iy  arises,  with  regard  to  the  uses  of  such  numerous 
blood-vessels  as  the  spinal  canal  and  the  foramina  of 
the  bones  of  the  head  present.  The  examination  of 
the  whale's  heart  exhibits  no  deviation  from  the  ordi- 
nary construction  of  that  viscus  in  other  mammalious 
animals.  As  it  lives  always  in  the  water,  it  would  re- 
quire the  transit  of  blood  by  the  foramen  ovale,  much 
more  than  the  seal,  were  such  necessary;  but  no  such 
opening  exists.  It  therefore  remains  for  anatomical 
research  to  account  for  the  animal  economy  of  the 
whale  on  other  principles  than  those  hitherto  adduced. 

The  social  haunts  of  the  blubber  whale  appear  to 
be  confined  to  the  inland  waters  of  Greenland;  which, 
Jjeing  of  unascertained  depth  and  extent,  and  shelter- 
ing the  timid  and  unoffending  creature  from  the  nu- 
merous enemies  by  which  he  is  persecuted,  is  anxious- 
ly sought  after,  when  the  urgency  of  sexual  appetite 
forces  him  not  from  this  his  peculiar  home.     This  pro" 
perly  refers  to  such  as  inhabit  the   northern  seas. 
How  the  animal  is  occupied  during  the  winter  months, 
whether  sunk  in  perpetual  slumber,  which  is  probable, 
during  that  period,  or  more  actively  engaged  in  feed- 
ing; on  the  moUusca,  and  such  minute  animals  of  the 
crustaceous  class  as  form  his  accustomed  food,  and 
with  which  those  confined  and  tranquil  waters  may 
be  supposed  to  abound,  cannot  with  any  plausibility 
be  ascertained.  Yet  when  it  is  considered  in  what  pla- 


•i'  M. 


^  f 


r  « 


UP 

r 


mm 


h'1  i) 


102 


ARCTIC  ZOOLOGY. 


r     ) 


:% 


ir 


'-  .1!    ; 

1M 


'  in  V. 


.  ^ 


ces  the  whale  is  first  seen  on  the  return  of  summer, 
and  the  direction  in  which  it  runs  at  that  pecuhar  sea- 
son, little  doubt  can  be  entertained  of  the  retreats 
whence  it  has  issued. 

Voyagers  to  Hudson's  Bay  seldom  see  the  "  first 
regular  whales,"  until  about  the  sixty-third  degree. 
In  the  southwest  seas  in  Davis's  Strait,  they  are  in  the 
early  part  of  the  season  oftentimes  killed  in  great 
numbers.  Higher  up  the  Strait,  they  are  seldom  seen 
till  after  passing  Baal's  River  ;  and  off  South  Bay, 
Western  Islands,  and  in  Disko,  or  South-East  Bay, 
they  become  numerous,  but  are  not  stationary ;  in 
general  running  to  the  northward,  to  the  north-east- 
ward, or  westward.  Their  haunts  in  such  cases  are 
far  from  regular,  as  what  is  deemed  in  one  year  suc- 
cessful fishing  ground,  becomes  in  succeeding  summers 
quite  otherwise.  In  this  respect,  no  doubt,  these  ani- 
mals are  regulated  by  experience  of  such  aunoyance 
as  they  have  met  with  previously. 

On  the  eastern  side  of  Greenland,  towards  Spitz- 
bergen,  they  are  seen  in  immense  numbers  about  the 
64th  degree,  but  the  majority  are  females  attended 
by  their  young  ;  whilst  on  the  west  side  of  Greenland 
the  sexes  are  nearly  equal  in  number,  and  few  young 
ones  are  seen.  Further  westward,  towards  the 
shores  of  North  America,  males  are  more  frequently 
seen  than  in  the  other  places,  and  always  of  superior 
size ;  and  in  the  high  latitudes  in  West  Greenland, 
ubove  the  Women's  Islands,  and  throughout  the  wide 
fiords  along  the  coast  to  Devil's  Thumb  and  the  Lin- 
na^an  Isles,  the  largest  whales  are  usually  found.  The 
latter  seem  to  be  their  ne  plus  ultra  ;  and  of  this  I 
shall  give  satisfactory  evidence. 


»■;« 


ARCTIC  ZOOLOGY. 


103 


Th€  continual  necessity  this  creature  feels  of  re- 
spiring from  the  atmosphere  drives  him  constantly  to 
the  surface.      From  his  numerous  pursuers,  the  field 
ice  presents  occasional  retreat;  and  some  of  the  mile- 
length  bergs  afford  a  similar  security.     As  such  re- 
treats always  meet  the  exigencies  of  the  whale  from 
the  northward,  it  becomes  habitual  for  him  to  move 
in  that  direction  ;  and  thither  also  his  partner  flies  for 
protection  of  herself  and  young  one,  to  obtain  such  con- 
cealment as  the  time  requires  ;  but  having  reached  the 
places  above  mentioned,  further  flight  is  impracticable ; 
the  continual  presence  of  ice  affording  no  open  water 
for  breathing  space,  the  continent  of  massy  congelation 
being  there  unbroken  except  at  its  precipitous  limits. 
The  whales  must  in  this  case  either  return  southward 
again,  or  move  in  an  easterly  or  westerly  direction. 
The  purposes  for  which  they  have  traversed  nearly 
twenty  degrees  of  the  northern  deep,  and  encountered 
the  innumerable  perils  of  the  way,  will  not  admit  of 
premature  return  ;  and  there  they  remain  running,  as 
the  whale   hunters  well  know,  from  the  islands  of 
West  Greenland,  into  the  untracked  ocean  towards 
America ;    and  again  returning,  nearly  in  the  same 
parallel,  to  the  Greenland  bays.      Whether  the  ani- 
mals following  such  contrary  courses  be  the  same, 
must  of  course  remain  doubtful  ;    but  that  they  do 
proceed  in  that  direction,  admits  of  not  a  shade  of 
question. 

It  may  be  matter  of  entertainment  to  give  a  short 
view  of  the  mode  in  which  the  whale  is  hunted.  Eve- 
ry ship  engaged  in  this  branch  of  commerce,  from 
British  ports,  is  furnished  with  six  boats,  besides  the 


u 

( 


r 


'^ 


\ 


"I' 


f 


i\!5 


1  I 


''■»rT 


I  ■  ^  ^ 


104 


AUCTrC    200L0GV. 


ship's,  or  jolly-boat.  One  of  these  is  called  the  gig- 
boat,  or  No.  1  :  the  remaining  five  are  distinguished 
only  by  their  number.  The  gig  is  provided  with  six 
oars,  besides  the  steersman's  ;  the  rest  have  only  five 
oars  each,  with  the  same  exception  :  in  all,  the  har- 
pooner  uses  the  bow  or  foremost  oar.  Each  boat  is 
provided  with  three  lines,  of  120  fathoms  each,  made 
of  the  very  soundest  hemp;  as  on  the  faithfulness  of 
the  line  the  success  of  capture  depends.  These  lines 
are  coiled  with  great  care  and  nicety  in  a  square 
frame  hi  the  middle  of  the  boat,  and  the  harpooner 
has  his  weapon  ready  in  a  dry  place,  to  set  it  on  a 
rest  prepare(^  for  that  purpose  on  the  right  bow  of 
the  boat.  The  boat-steerer,  who  must  be  trained  to 
his  station,  as  in  emergency  his  courage  and  cautiou 
may  not  only  secure  success  but  save  the  lives  of  the 
men,  is  provided  with  a  long  oar,  with  which  he  dex- 
terously directs  the  motion  of  the  boat.  Each  boat  is 
also  provided  with  a  tin  trumpet  to  announce  the  sta- 
tion or  movement  in  case  of  being  enveloped  in  fog ; 
and  also  with  a  piece  of  bunting  attached  to  a  short 
pole  by  way  of  signal  flag. 

Thus  equipped,  the  boats  are  suspended  by  a  sim- 
ple machinery  of  ropes  and  blocks  by  the  ship's  sides, 
ready  to  be  lowered  in  an  instant.  To  the  mainmast 
is  attached,  at  a  great  elevation,  usually  about  100 
feet  above  the  deck,  a  structure  resembling  a  water 
cask,  called  a  hurricane  house,  in  which  the  master 
or  confidential  officer  is  stationed  with  a  telescope  on 
the  look-out ;  and  to  such  as  have  not  witnessed  the 
fatigues  of  that  station,  a  recital  of  its  dangerous 
hardships  would  appear  incredible.      In  the  sudden 


Is, 


ARCTIC   ZOOLOGY. 


105 


transitions  from  intense  cold  to  the  most  annoying 
heat,  whilst  the  head  is  involved  in  the  blaze  of  an 
eternal  unclouded  sun,  that  blisters  the  face  and 
blinds  the  strongest  vision,  that  situation  must  be  in- 
flexibly maintained,  and  such  perseverance  often  costs 
the  individual  the  loss  of  health  and  life. 

If  the  ship's  station  be  on  what  is  considered  good 
fishing  ground,  which  is  commonly  known  from  the 
water  being  of  a  deep  olive  colour,  a  boat  or  two 
being  kept  continually  on  the  watch,  the  moment  a 
whale  is  descried,  the  pursuit  commences  without  loss 
of  a  second  of  time ;  and  as  the  ordinary  speed  of  the 
whale  boats  is  six  miles  an  hour,  a  very  short  space 
of  time  is  sufficient  to  bring  them  to  the  spot.  The 
whale,  on  the  first  rising,  seeing  no  enemy  near,  and 
not  apprehending  danger,  is  apt  to  repose  a  consider- 
able time  at  the  surface,  apparently  "  stretched  out 
o'er  many  a  rood,"  and  the  boats  are  meantime  ad- 
vancing to  the  place.  "  Give  way"  is  then  the  word 
with  which  the  rowers  urge  their  speed,  and  the  har- 
pooner,  with  desperate  and  determined  energy,  bu- 
ries his  weapon  in  the  animal's  body.  This  is  mostly 
followed  by  a  moment's  awful  pause ;  the  whale,  upon 
feeling  the  smart  of  the  barb,  trembles  for  an  instant 
in  his  posture,  darts  precipitately  forward,  or  sinks  by 
an  unaccountable  effort  with  the  suddenness  of  so 
much  lead.  If  the  harpoon  remain  fast,  the  line  con- 
tinuing to  run  with  immeasurable  velocity,  the  flag  oi 
the  boat  is  displayed  in  token  of  success,  when  all  in 
the  boats  within  sight  of  the  transaction,  and  those  on 
board  the  ship,  join  in  a  wild  irregular  cry  of  "  A  fall, 

14> 


tf» 


II' 

I: 
iv ' 


;ii 


*  ■ 


f 


n 


): 


f 


u 


106 


ARCTIC  ZOOLOGY. 


a  fall,"*  and  a  flag  is  immediately  run  up  to  the  mizzeu 
mast  head  to  proclaim  the  vessel's  good  fortune. 

In  the  mean  while  the  other  boats  are  despatched 
to  aid  in  the  capture,  and  no  sooner  does  the  animal 
rise  again,  than  the  next  harpooner  secures  him  by  a 
second  wound,  and  so  follow  as  many  as  they  can, 
until  by  multiplied  efforts  to  escape,  compelled  so  re- 
peatedly to  rise  for  breath,  and  then  almost  instantly 
visited  with  the  instruments  of  death,  exhaustion  fol- 
lows, and  he  becomes  a  bestunned  object  for  the  hun- 
ter's deliberate  aim,  when,  from  the  numberless  plun- 
ges of  the  lance,  the  vital  current  becomes  spent,  and 
the  animal  dies.  Such  an  event  is  not  always  unat- 
tended with  danger  to  the  hunters. 

Often  in  the  first  instance  of  being  stricken,  if  re- 
collection of  similar  injury  aid  his  anger,  the  retaliation 
of  the  animal  is  destructive,  for,  rushing  backwards, 
in  which  direction  the  assailants  usually  advance,  a 
single  touch  of  the  tail  is  sufficient  for  their  destruc- 
tion. The  sudden  violence  with  which  the  animal 
descends  frequently  produces  a  similar  effect  if  the 
line  happen  to  meet  obstruction  in  its  course- ;  and  in 
the  dying  scene,  pierced  with  many  wounds,  the  ani- 
mal exhibits  a  terrific  object  by  the  mightiness  of  his 
efforts,  though  quite  unconscious  of  the  grand  effects 
produced  by  such  exertions.  Spouting  a  column  of 
apparent  flame,  which,  descending,  covers  the  sea 
with  a  crimsoned  surface  of  acres  in  extent,  at  the 
same  time  lashing  the  water  all  around  into  purple 

*  The  cry  of"  A  fall,  a  fall,"  seems  to  be  expressive  of  having 
taken  a  whale,  the  Dutch  in  their  jargonous  langr";..^-  giving  it 
origin. 


i1^  \ 


.   r 


ARCTIC  ZOOLOGY. 


107 


foam  by  the  strokes  of  the  fins  and  tail,  now  and  then 
endeavouring  to  repli  :ige  in  hopes  of  escaping,  in 
which  effort  half  the  body  towards  the  tail  is  seen 
above  water,  the  unger  so  obvious  is  carefully 
avoided  by  the  ^»of^  crews,  at  that  crisis  cautioned 
to  remain  at  a  sccui  e  distance,  when  the  lines  fastened 
to  the  harpoons  are  slowly  drawn  in  till  the  animal 
re-appears  and  breathes  his  last. 

The  whale,  after  death,  always  turns  on  the  back. 
The  fins  are  then  lashed  together,  perforations  are 
made  in  the  tail,  and  a  rope  is  passed  through,  and 
thence  round  the  rump;  when  all  the  boats,  passing 
lines  from  one  to  the  other,  proceed  to  tow  the  mon- 
ster towards  the  ship,  which  is  usually  so  managed  as 
to  meet  them,  in  order  to  lessen  the  fatigue.     When 
brought  alongside,  the  body  is  properly  secured  for 
the  operation  of  flinching.     This  consists  in  digging 
off  the  blubber,  or  cellular  substance,  from  the  mus- 
cular parts,  in  large  slips,  sometimes  of  half  a  ton 
weight,  but  all  of  a  regular  form,  which  are  lifted  on 
deck  by  the  help  of  the  windlass,  and  the  labour  of 
many  hands,  who  toil  incessantly  until  the  spoliation  is 
completed.     The  whale-bone,  as  it  is  called,  is  care- 
fully dug  out,  as  well  as  the  massy  tongue  ;  the  former 
for  its  peculiar  imj  irtance,  and  the  latter  as  being  al- 
most entirely  of  blubber.     The  bones  of  the  lower 
jaw  are  also  removed,  being  a  private  perquisite  of 
the  master,  and  so  would  the  frontal  or  crown  bone 
too,  were  it  not  for  the  extreme  difficulty  of  separating 
it  from  the  body.     Then  finally  the  remotest  joint 
that  can  be  marked  in  the  lumbar  vertebrae  or  rump, 


;- 


I" 


\  ■ 


108 


ARCTIC  ZOOLOGY. 


■)  I       1 


f  \ 


ih  i  i 


■I  1 


\  ' 


i 


is  severed,  and  the  crang,*  as  is  called  the  residue  of 
the  animal,  with  its  abdominal  contents,  is  suffered  to 
sink,  which  it  instantly  does  to  the  bottom. 

When  the  flinched  pieces  are  hoisted  on  deck,  they 
are  cut  into  squares,  and  tossed  into  the  body  of  the 
vessel,  where  they  remain  for  a  convenient  opportunity 
of  reducing  them  to  handbreadth  slips,  which  is  done 
by  chopping  them,  upon  portions  of  the  tail,  with 
heavy  knives;  and  this  procedure,  which  is  called 
"making  cfT,"  is  final  for  the  transmission  of  blubber 
to  the  English  ports  from  the  diflferent  fishing  grounds. 
The  reduced  pieces  are  for  that  purpose  placed  in 
large  casks,  and  closely  bunged  up  to  prevent  the 
action  of  tlie  air  from  producing  the  putrefactive 
process. 

During  the  foregoing  operations,  the  utmost  pre- 
cautions are  observed  that  no  portion  of  muscular  flesh 
be  mixed  with  the  cellular  part,  as  the  violent  explo- 
sion of  the  cask  would  be  the  consequence,  when 
coming  into  southern  climates.  Similar  concern  is 
also  evinced  that  the  sawdust  of  the  pine  should  not 
have  admittance  into  the  casks  containing  the  blubber, 
from  an  experience  that  the  casks  in  such  case  are  more 
certainly  burst  by  the  evolution  of  gases  in  an  earlier 
stage  of  putrefaction  than  even  by  the  presence  of  the 
former.  To  prevent  the  first  from  taking  effect,  the 
muscular  parts,  and  skin,  are  carefully  cut  away 
in  the  "  making  off;"  and  the  sawdust  is  employed  so 
cautiously,  and  in  such  small  quantities,  that  no  abuse 
of  that  dangerous  material  can  be  apprehended.   The 

*  Crang  probably  bears  some  relation  to  the  Latin  term  for 
muscular  flesh. 


\    i 


.■■    ) 


>^#' 


i 


ARCTIC  ZOOLOGY. 


109 


chief  reason  why  sawdust  is  employed,  is  i'or  the  pur- 
pose of  drying  up  the  oily  effusions  thp*  incommode 
the  men  in  the  u&e  of  the  respective  impk  .ents  neces- 
sary to  effect  the  operations  of  ffmching  and  making 
off.  The  use  of  fir-timber  dust  on  such  occasions 
cleanses  the  hands  and  instruments,  with  a  ready  and 
efficient  result;  and  the  ship  boys  are  stationed  so  as 
to  supply  the  demands  of  the  officers  in  this  respect. 

Tlie  integuments  of  the  whale  are,  like  the  animal 
himself,  widely  different  from  that  of  every  other  in 
comparison.  The  epidermis  is  like  thin  parchment, 
flexible  when  on  the  body,  easily  detached,  wrinkled 
according  to  the  age  of  the  animal,  and  corresponding 
with  the  organization  of  the  muscles  beneath ;  but, 
when  dry,  it  is  horny  and  brittle,  and  in  consistence 
similar  to  the  finer  laminae  of  the  whale-bone.  The 
true  skin  is  about  an  inch  thick  in  its  full  character, 
and  is  formed  of  material  analogous  to  the  whale-bone, 
but  breaks,  when  dry,  in  perpendicular  fissure :  it  is 
usually  a  deep  brownish  black,  and,  when  soft, 
strongly  resembles  Indian-rubber.  In  composition  it 
seems  to  differ  very  little  from  the  substance  that  con- 
stitutes the  matricular  bed  of  the  whale-bone ;  the 
white  colour  of  the  latter  forming  the  only  distinction, 
except  that  its  fracture  is  shelving.  The  cellular 
tissue,  or  blubber,  is,  in  its  average  thickness,  twelve 
inches;  in  the  very  young  whale,  being  gelatinous; 
in  the  more  advanced  and  vigorous,  of  a  florid  red, 
when  it  is  considered  most  valuable ;  and  in  the  aged 
animal,  yellow  and  tough  from  the  induration  of  in- 
creased and  condensed  fibre ;   for  which  reason  the 


'\ 


' 


h 


1 


I 


f    V 


110 


A1U>TIC  ZOOLOGY. 


older  whales  arc  not  so  much  an  object,  where  dioicc 
presents,  as  those  of  less  advanced  growth. 

The  older  ones  are  also  more  dangerous  and  diffi- 
cult to  take,  both  from  the  rigidity  of  their  frame, 
and  their  experience  of  injury.  It  is  not  unusual  when 
they  happen  to  be  disturbed  in  the  pursuits  that  draw 
them  from  their  retreats,  that,  if  a  partner  be  wound- 
ed, the  affectionate  companion  comes  to  give  relief, 
not  knowing  the  cause  of  the  pain,  or  of  the  sudden 
flight.  In  the  search,  the  watchful  hunter  strikes 
the  fresh  prey,  when  the  tortured  animals,  seeking 
each  other  in  their  anguish,  and  desperate  with  their 
wounds,  often  run  foul  of  the  boats,  and  involve  their 
pursuers  in  the  ruin  that  overwhelms  themselves.  In 
some  instances,  as  heretofore  observed,  they,  by  run- 
ning among  packed  ice,  or  rubbing  the  line  against 
the  edge  of  a  flaw,  (a  portion  of  field  ice,)  frequently 
chafe  it  so  as  to  make  it  snap,  and  so  escape  for  the 
moment,  but  they  are  seldom  eventually  safe.*  On 
such  occasions  they  cease  not  \a  run  for  unknown 
length,  until  fatigue  or  death  makes  them  insensible 
of  pain.  To  some  such  occurrence  is  to  be  attributed 
the  circumstance  of  a  whale  having  been  captured  with 
the  harpoon  imbedded  in  its  body,  after  traversing 
the  unknown  seas  between  Spitzbergen  and  Davis's 
Strait. 

I  cannot  conclude  this  part  of  the  subject  without 
mentioning  the  singular  character  of  courage  and  in- 
trepidity evinced  by  the  men  employed  in  the  capture 


r 

1 


*  "  Hgeret  lateri  lethalis  arundo." 


.J  '1 


I '    1 


I 

il 


ARCTIC   ZOOLOGY. 


Ill 


of  the  whale.  Trained  to  the  occupation  from  boy- 
hood, and  induced  by  rewards  of  much  importance  in 
their  station,  such  quahfications  are  highly  recommen- 
datory in  their  appHcation  for  employment ;  and,  in 
their  voyage,  should  "  good  luck"  attend  their  ex- 
ertions, and  an  implicit  devotedness  to  the  interests 
of  the  owner  be  evinced,  their  advancement  and 
emolument  are  certain.  The  expense  of  outfit,  the 
danger  of  total  loss  by  shipwreck,  and  the  thousand 
casualties  to  which  this  branch  of  trade  is  liable,  should 
prevent  all  envy  of  the  profits  arising  from  it.  When 
successful,  these  profits  are  certainly  great ;  but  they 
are  fairly  balanced,  not  only  by  the  constant  and 
straining  anxiety  attending  selfish  concern,  but  by  the 
apprehension  that  all  the  individuals  so  engaged  may 
probably  never  return  from  so  perilous  a  mission. 
Such  reflections  consume  an  honest  and  humane  heart; 
whilst  the  purse  of  the  adventuring  me  chant  may  be 
distended  by  the  fortunate  return.*  Indeed,  under 
every  consideration,  few  would  be  found  to  envy  an 
adventure  of  such  description.  The  legislature  has 
placed  ample  protection  over  this  trade,  holding  forth 
every  encouragement  to  men  of  enterprise  and  ca- 
pital to  promote  it.  The  late  long  war  has  also  con- 
tributed to  make  it  a  sort  of  monopoly  to  the  British 
merchant;  but  when  the  yearly  diminution  that  at 
present  exists  has  continued,  whales  in  the  northern 
seas  will  become  as  scarce  as  wolves  in  Britain. 
Balcena  Mysticetus  (the  finner)  bears  a  great  re- 

'^  The  whale  averages  a  value  of  1000^ 


k 


>     TJi    ^ 


i:. 


i  1 


I 


■■\ ' 


H 


A 


I 


^  ■ 


III 


H2 


ARCTIC    ZOOLOGY. 


semblance  to  tlic  former,  in  tlic  generic  character  of 
the  double  spiracle  on  the  crown,  but  dilfers  from  it 
in  having,  at  the  extremity  of  the  dorsal  vertebrae,  a 
soft  fui. 

The  (inner  is  seen  traversing  the  ocean  between 
Newfoundland  and  the  British  islands,  in  numbers ; 
but  in  tho  months  in  which  the  blubber  whale  sallies 
forth  from  his  haunts,  they  are  observed  running  to- 
wards the  arctic  seas,  and  are  consideref'.  good 
guides  to  the  whale's  retreats.  Like  that  animal,  the 
place  of  teeth  in  the  mouth  is  supplied  by  horny  lami- 
nae imbedded  in  the  frontal  bone ;  but  in  the  fmner, 
those  lamina!  are  shorter,  and  of  a  blue  colour, 
which,  from  wliatever  cause  proceeding,  renders  it 
less  fit  for  the  impression  of  those  colouring  materials, 
by  which  the  common  whale-bone  is  adapted  to  so 
many  useful  and  elegant  purposes.  The  finner  being 
also  much  thinner  in  blubber,  of  course  more  slen- 
der, though  generally  surpassing  the  blubber  whale 
in  length  of  body,  is  less  the  object  of  pursuit.  Be- 
sides, the  hunters  from  experience  avoid  striking  the 
finner,  well  knowing  his  enormous  strength  and  fleet- 
ness ;  always  when  wounded,  running  forwards  with 
such  velocity  as  to  distance  his  pursuers  in  a  few 
minutes,  and  frequently  snapping  the  lines ;  or, 
should  the  harpooner  holdfast,  himself  and  the  boat's 
crew  would  soon  be  out  of  reach  of  all  reasonable 
assistance.  Hence  these  animals  are  very  seldom 
captured. 

The  finner  is  gregarious,  being  usually  in  herds  of 
from  five  to  a  dozen  j  and  they  are,  at  any  distance, 
easily  distinguishable  from  the  blubber  whale  by  the 


.•  ■  '    ".*,■. 


II 


ARCTK    ZOorOfiY. 


II.; 


stieiicrtli,  elevation,  and  wliiteness  of  the  walery  column 
tlischarged  iVoiii  the  blovv-liolrs.  The  hiast  of  the 
blubber  whale  is  short,  full,  and  brownish,  driven 
somewhat  forward  ;  whilst  that  of  the  fuiner  is  forced 
ilirec'tly  upwards  in  a  firm  column  of  more  than  ten 
feel,  and  with  such  an  accompanying  gust  as  maybe 
heard  in  a  calm  evcnins;  at  the  distance  of  more  than 
half  a  mile.  The  attention  of  the  sailors  is  diawn  to 
the  path  of  the  iinner  by  the  noise  of  tiiis  discharge; 
and  should  the  animal  be  then  beneath  the  surface, 
and  his  course  be  marked  by  the  eddying  ripple  caus- 
ed by  his  motion  like  that  of  the  blubber  whale,  on 
ascertaining  the  fmner'^  blast,  the  pieparations  for 
pursuit  are  instantly  suspended. 

With  regard  to  the  bahena  boops,  or  pike-headed 
whale,  and  thebalicnamusculus,  or  broad-nosed  whale, 
I  have  already  some  reason  to  suppose  they  have  the 
best  place  in  a  description  on  the  page  of  a  publica- 
tion on  natural  history  professedly  directed  to  exhibit 
new  species.  They  shall  for  that  reason  be  included 
in  the  general  description  of  the  former  species. 

The  physeter,  or  cachalot,  is  seldom  caught  in 
Davis's  Strait,  especially  the  P.  macrocephalus  or 
spermaceti  whale.  It  is  from  the  head  of  this  animal 
that  spermaceti  is  obtained  ;  and  from  its  intestines, 
when  diseased,  the  .substance  of  ambergrise  is  procur- 
ed. Those  seen  in  Davis's  Strait  arc  now  very  rare. 
The  body  is  generally  whitish  and  smooth.  It  has  a 
double  row  of  teeth  in  the  lower  jaw,  forty-six  in  num- 
ber, which  arc  received  into  sockets  in  the  upper. 

The  physeter  mirrops,  or  sharp-nosed  cachalot,  ip 


h 


h\ 


1 


i 


Ill 


AUCTK    ZOOl-OCiV 


; ; 


/  i 


*',  \      \ 


% 


■it   *  r 

A 

,■  • 
*■ 


soniefimes,  but  very  rarclv,  seen  in  the  northein  seas. 
f  had  an  opportunity  of  observing  only  one  in  Davis's 
Strait. 

Delphinus  plmcfena,  or  common  porpoise,  is 
ircquently  seen  in  numerous  slioals  in  the  Strait,  tuni- 
bhne:  al)outin  the  rouirhesl  waves  as  if  in  spoit.     Tlie 


'ti 


■r> 


general  length  of  this  animal  is  seven  feet.  The  usual 
food  of  the  porpoise  are  herrings  and  small  fish  ;  but 
of  these  I  never  saw  any  in  Davis's  Strait. 

Delphinus  Orca,  (common  grampus.) — There  are  two 
varieties  of  this  genus  to  be  met  with  in  the  noithern 
yeas.  They  differ  from  the  porpoise,  in  the  snout  of 
the  former  being  not  so  blunt  ;  whilst  that  of  the  gram- 
pus is  short,  blunt,  and  a  little  turned  up.  The  re- 
markable difference  of  size  too  is  very  striking,  the 
grampus  being  from  twenty  to  twenty-four  feet  long, 
and  proportionally  bulky.  The  latter  also  is  furnish- 
ed only  with  forty  teeth  ;  whilst  the  former  has  forty- 
six  in  each  jaw. 

The  second  variety  of  D.  orca,  sword  grampus, 
has  the  dorsal  fin  long  and  bony,  broad  at  the  base,  and 
curved  like  a  scymeter.  As  they  advance  in  age,  this 
instrument  grows  longer ;  so  that  the  leader,  or  old 
one,  can  be  distinguished  from  his  followers  by  the  su- 
perior height  of  the  fin.  This  is  one  of  the  fiercest 
enemies  of  the  whale,  being  provided  with  such  an  ef- 
ficient weapon  of  annoyance  as  the  strong  dorsal  fin. 
The  sword  grampus  pursues  also  seals  ;  and  the  lat- 
ter, in  their  clumsy  eilbrts  to  escape  upon  the  ice  or 
rocks,  are  frequently  overtaken  by  their  active  adver- 
sary, when  the  seals  are  swe[)t  from  their  place  of  rc^ 


AllC'Tk;    ZOOLOGY. 


Hj 


treat  I)ack  into  the  water,  where  they  are  easily  van- 
(jui-shcd. 

The  sword  grampus  varies  much  in  size  according 
to  age  ;  but  when  full  grown,  it  is  al)ove  twenty 
feet  long.  The  great  size  of  the  fin,  from  which  the 
animal  derives  its  tiivial  name,  distinsruishes  it  amona; 
the  dolphins  as  much  as  a  similar  instrument  does  the 
physeter  turfio  among  the  cachalots. 

Dclpliinm  Leucas,  (white  whale  or  beluga.) — Snout 
conic,  obtuse,  inclined  upwards  ;  doi'sal  fin  wanting. 
This  beautiful  an'mal  diversifies  many  a  dreary  scene 
in  the  arctic  seas,  where  all  animated  existence  would 
seem  siiut  out  by  the  eternal  presence  of  ice,  and  its 
accompanying  cold.  When  every  wind  is  hushed,  and 
the  surface  of  the  sea  becomes  of  glassy  smoothness^ 
a  lively  herd  of  these  gregarious  animals,  by  their 
merry  gambols,  and  the  exhibition  of  their  smooth, 
slippery  white  bodies,  affords  a  pleasing  and  entertain- 
ing view.  As  in  other  cetaceous  animals,  their  pecto- 
ral fins  partake  more  of  the  character  of  the  fore  feet 
in  quadrupeds  than  the  pectoral  fins  of  fishes,  being 
constructed  of  fine  bones,  of  a  very  porous  kind,  cover- 
ed  with  a  little  fat,  much  cartilage,  and  a  thick,  tough 
skin,  with  an  epidermis.  The  young  are  dusky,  or 
mottled  obscurely  ;  but  that  distinction,  I  apprehend, 
is  not  decidedly  accurate,  as  many  of  that  dusky  colour, 
which  I  have  seen,  were  equal  in  size  to  their  white 
companions,  and  some  even  surpassed  them  in  magni- 
tude. The  teeth  in  the  jaws  of  the  white  whale  are 
short  and  bluntish,  in  number  amounting  to  thirty-six. 
The  usual  size  of  the  white  whale,  when  full  grown. 


^m. 


r 


!i 


hi 


IIG 


AflCTlC    ZOOLOGY. 


is  from  twelve  to  fifteen  feet,  and  not  vcrj'  bulky  for 
that  length.  There  is  not,  at  a  great  distance,  much 
dii!erencc  between  the  D.  leucas  and  the  monodon, 
their  movements  being  much  alike. 

Having;  laid  before  the  reader  this  short  and  faith- 
ful  account  of  the  mammalious  animals,  I  shall  pro- 
ceed to  enumerate  the  various  birds  that  came  actual- 
ly under  my  observation,  and  will  briefly  detail  such 
of  their  habits  as  I  had  an  opportunity  of  noticing  my- 
self, or  of  collecting  from  the  accounts  of  persons,  who. 
from  many  years'  experience,  have  been  eyewitnesses 
of  those  habits. 

Corvxis  Corax  (the  raven)  is  not  common  in  the 
arctic  regions,  though  observed  in  very  high  latitudes. 
Seldom  seen  in  pairs,  this  bird  leads  a  solitary  life, 
alternately  frequenting  the  ice  in  the  early  part  of  the 
day,  and  returning  to  its  rocky  retreats^  in  the  after- 
noon. One  remarkable  circumstance  regarding  this 
bird,  in  Greenland,  is  the  peculiarity  of  note  which  it 
utters  when  perched  upon  its  craggy  seat, — not  thaf 
deep,  hoarse,  croaking  that  announces  its  ominous 
presence  in  Europe,  but  a  shrill  and  rather  pleasing, 
soft,  short  note,  greatly  resembling  the  barking  of  a 
dog,  or  such  as  the  fox  is  heard  to  utter  when  in  chase 
of  his  prey.  On  first  hearing  this  note,  I  was  much 
surprised,  supposing  it  to  come  from  the  arctic  fox,  or 
other  such  quadruped ;  but  the  sudden  presence  of 
the  raven  descending  from  the  lofty  brow  of  Disko, 
and  uttering  this  singular  cry,  put  the  circumstance 
beyond  doubt.  The  Greenlanders  eat  the  flesh  of 
this  bird,  convert  the  skin  into  inner  garments,  and 
make  fishing  lines  of  the  quills. 


U 


if' 


I 


ARCTIC  ZOOLOGY. 


117 


Jlnas  Mollissima^  (the  eider  duck.) — Male — bill, 
legs,  front,  ocular  band,  breast,  rump  and  belly, 
black  :  crown,  shoulders  and  wing  coverts,  white, 
with  a  green  blotch  on  the  nape.  Female — almost 
wholly  ferruginous,  or  rusty  brown,  with  darker  lines : 
tail  and  primary  quill  feathers,  dusky.      Length — 22 

inches.      Food testaceous    animals.       Eggs — five, 

greenish,  with. a  tinge  of  brown,  and  larger  than  those 
of  the  tame  duck,  which,  as  well  as  the  flesh  of  the 
bird,  are  excellent  food  when  fresh.  The  nest  is 
constructed  of  dry  vegetables,  and  strewed  over  with 
the  rich  down  of  the  bird,  which  is  either  shed  from 
the  heat  of  incubation,  or  is  pulled  ofTfor  the  purpose 
of  increasing  the  warmth.  The  plumage  constitutes 
the  valuable  eider  down. 

The  vast  flocks  of  these  birds,  that  annually  visit 
the  shores  of  Greenland  for  the  purpose  of  rearing 
their  young,  are  surprising  to  one  unaccustomed  to  see 
animals  so  highly  prized  for  their  down.  It  would  be 
needless  to  particularize  any  bay,  inlet,  or  creek,  as 
most  remarkable  for  the  retreat  of  these  birds  during 
the  season  of  incubation  ;  they  are  however  careful  to 
avoid  the  presence  of  the  natives  as  much  as  possible ; 
and  they  arc  generally  found  by  the  whale  ships 
where  Uskees  are  not  seen.  In  Hickson's  Bay,  for 
instance,  and  in  the  fiords  farther  to  the  northward, 
they  are  seen  in  immense  numbers,  where  boats  may  be 
laden  with  their  eggs  without  difiiculty,  and  a  good 
marksman  may  easily  possess  himself  of  many  of  the 
birds  themselves,  as  both  male  and  female  are  not 
much  alarmed  at  the  presence  of  strangers  who  come 
so  unexpectedly  aa  the  whale  hunter^^  do.     The  great. 


niim\ 


M 


118 


\KCT1C  ZOOLOC.k. 


k'* 


i^ 


"I 


concern  ol  the  season  never  allowing  tlio  ships  lo  ic- 
main  long  in  one  station,  nnless  iinpecled  by  the  ice, 
or  the  whales  appearing  in  great  number,  prevents 
the  slaughter  of  the  eider  duck  to  the  amount  that 
would  otherwise  occur  every  year. 

The  ujasters  of  the  whale  ships  are  anxious  to 
fetch  home  the  skins  of"  tlie  eider  ducks,  as  presents 
to  their  friends,  Avhen  the  coarser  feathers  are  plucked 
otT,  and  the  skin  stretched  so  as  to  be  preserved  dry 
with  the  down  on  ;  in  which  state  they  are  considered 
highly  salutary  in  application  to  the  breasts  of  newly 
lain-in  women.  These  skins  form  the  great  luxury  of 
such  of  the  natives  of  Greenland  as  can  reserve  them 
for  their  private  use  ;  but  they  are  of  too  much  value 
in  the  estimation  of  the  Danes  not  to  induce  a  barter 
of  them  for  some  iron  nails,  and  other  such  important 
cqui>alents. 

JInas  Boschas  (the  common  wild  duck)  is  also  very 
numerous. 

Procellaria  Glaciafis,  (fulmar  petrel,  or  mallemuck.) 
— There  are  many  varieties  of  this  bird.  If  colour 
constitute  specific  distinctions,  there  are  many  species 
under  this  name.  As  this  is  one  of  the  most  remarka- 
ble birds  that  frequent  the  Straits  during  the  Summer 
months,  a  particular  description  may  be  deemed  ne- 
cessary. 

1.  Head,  breast  and  belly,  white  ;  back  and  wings, 
hoary  ;  legs,  yellowish  ;  bill,  pale  ash,  yellowish  at 
the  tip ;  nostrils,  composed  of  two  tubes  lying  along 
the  bill,  and  lodj^ed  in  one  sheath. 

2.    Head,  whitish ;    neck,   back,    wing  and  tail, 


»»-* .  - . 


ARCTIC  ZOOLOGY. 


119 


tJiiikcr  giay  than  the  1st;    legs  and  bill  corrcspond- 


J.  Body  and  \vings  cinereous  gray. 

'I.  J>ody,  wings  and  tail,  almost  brown,  with  a 
grayish  tint. 

The  first  three  are  properly  called  mallemuck,  and 
the  sailors  fjive  the  name  ofspectioneer  to  the  fourth, 
to  which,  tiom  its  singularly  filthy  and  voracious  ha- 
bits, and  also  from  a  view  of  its  enormous  cesophagus, 
■which  extends  the  whole  length  of  the  body,  the  sto- 
mach being  situate  near  the  vent,  the  name  specifically 
designating  its  qualities — gulosa,  or  gormandizing 
petrel,  would  be  more  appropriate.  Besides,  these 
birds  are  found  all  over  the  ocean,  and  visit  the  icy 
seas  only  in  the  siunmer  months. 

From  their  similarity  of  colour  and  size,  they  would 
at  first  view  appear  to  be  gulls  ;  and  some  writers 
even  describe  them  as  such,  wherever  they  happen  to 
be  met  with  at  sea,  particularly  in  fine  weather  ;  but 
this  error  is  easily  rectified,  when  one  comes  to  exa- 
mine the  peculiar  character  of  their  tubular  nostril, 
which  is,  to  use  a  familiar  phrase,  like  a  double-bar- 
relled pistol.  In  a  heavy  gale,  the  fulmar  petrel  is 
more  readily  distinguished  by  the  strength  and  facili- 
ty of  his  flight ;  like  all  the  birds  of  that  genus,  seem- 
ing to  take  pleasure  in  the  storm,  with  the  greatest 
case  skimming  in  every  direction  with  truly  astonish- 
ing speed,  playing  round  the  ship  when  running  ten 
knots  an  hour,  and  sometimes  breasting  the  mountain- 
ous wave  within  half  an  inch  of  the  surface,  ascend- 
.  ing  to  its  greatest  elevation,  and  in  that  manner  foK 
lowing  it  as  closely  in  its  preci|)itous  descent. 


u 


f  ,1 


'^r 


J  20 


ARtTU;    /OOLOUV. 


*i 


i^'^ 


1 

11 


The  ordinary  length  of  llie  mallemuck,  is  seveniten 
inches;  the  younger  ones  not  so  large.     When  old. 
they  are  easily  known  by  their  increased  voracity,  and 
the  tyrannous  disposition  they  manifest  towards  the 
younger  and  more  timid.     StujDid  and  fearless,  they 
will  approach  near  enough  to  be  killed  by  the  stroke 
of  a  boat-hook  or  oar,  if  tempted  by  a  j>iece  of  blub- 
ber or  other  fat ;  and,  after  being  stunned  and  taken 
into  the  boat,  on  recovering  ever  so  little,  if  their  fa- 
vourite blubber  be  within  reach,  they  will  greedily 
swallow  it ;  and  it  must  be  a  very  large  piece  that  will 
not  find  its  way  down  with  them.     As  they  appear  in 
the  northern  seas,  they  seem  to  have,  each,  but  an  in- 
dividual concern ;  so  that  the  distinctions  of  sex  can- 
not be  determined  from  common  observation.     When 
sated,  it  is  true,  they  compliment  each  other  in  a  short 
chuckling  note,  like  caw,  caw;  but  this  harmony  is 
easily  broken  by  casting  among  them  a  piece  of  blub- 
ber, too  large  to  swallow,  when  they  commence  an 
angry  contest  for  the  prize,  and  the  most  courageous 
generally  remains  solitary  at  the  feast.     This  envious 
and  rapacious  disposition  affords  the  sailors  an  oppor- 
tunity of  amusing  themselves,  by  tying  two  pieces  of 
blubber  to  the  ends  of  a  string,  when  a  ridiculous 
scene  ensues ;  one  end  being  swallowed  by  one  malle- 
muck, the  other  is  seized  and  perhaps  gorged  by  ano- 
ther, and  the  prize  is  thus  several  times  alternately 
iiauled  out  of  each  other's  throats. 

The  immense  numbers  of  these  birds  that  annually 
r»  p-ort  to  Davis's  Strait  are  surprising.  Their  pro- 
bable breeding  haunts  must  be  somewhere  in  the 
southern  shores  of  Greenland,  or  on  the  coasts  about 


MUMMiM 


•;t-  ^ 


1  T"~* •-'"'* 


•"Hn| 


ARCTIC  ZOOLOGY. 


12) 


Hudson's  Strait ;  for  it  is  after  cominsj  into  those  lati- 
tudes that  tlicy  are  ohserved  to  increase  most  in  num- 
ber. Tliey  arc  of  importance  to  the  whale  hunters, 
showing  by  their  flight  the  retreats  of  that  animal ; 
and  this  indication  is  always  relied  on  and  followed. 
The  mallemuck  possesses  the  sense  of  smelling  in  a 
very  acute  degree ;  for  if  at  any  time  not  one  of  these 
birds  is  to  be  seen,  a  .small  hit  of  blubber  thrown 
overboard  will  attract  them  imincdiatclv  in  creat 
numbers. 

Procellaria  Gravis,  (the  cape  hen.)  This  familiar 
name  is  given  by  the  sailors  to  a  new  species  of  petrel, 
seen  only  in  the  latitude  of  Cape  Farewell  and  Staten 
Hook,  and  somewhat  farther  eastward  during  the  sum- 
mer months ;  frequenting  Newfoundland  in  the  latter 
season.  Bill  and  legs,  black;  nostrils,  tubular; 
throat,  breast,  and  belly,  white ;  crown,  nape,  back, 
and  wings,  sooty  brown;  tail,  brown,  with  a  white 
band  across ;  ends  of  the  quill-feathers,  touched  with 
white  ;  band  on  the  eyes,  black  ;  wings,  very  long. 

The  usual  Icnjjth  of  this  bird  is  nineteen  inches: 
and,  like  the  others  of  the  genus,  it  can  exert  amazing 
velocity;  seldom  striking  downwards  with  the  wing, 
particularly  in  a  strong  wind,  when  it  sails  about 
with  the  utmost  facility.  It  is  a  heavy,  stupid  bird, 
and  sleeps  much  upon  the  water. 

Pelecanus  Carbo  (the  common  corvorant)  appeared 
only  on  one  occasion,  in  a  flock  of  six.  It  is  thought 
to  be  rare  hereabouts. 

Lams  Maximns,  (burgomaster,  or  the  white-winged 
gull.)  Bill,  pale  yellow,  with  a  blackish  band  across 
near  the  tip;  body,  wings  and  tail,  snowy  white,  with 

16 


H 


tf     ■:*■« 


> 


'i] 


'.  J 


r 


[t 


']|M 


d  ■•^- 


fi 


122 


ARCTIC    ZOOLOGY. 


a  dasli  of  pearly  gray  on  the  interscapular  region  and 
tcrtials ;  legs  and  feet,  pale  flesh  colour;  liind  toe, 
small;  claws,  horn-colour ;  length,  when  full  grown, 
thirty-two  inches.  Being  now  for  the  first  time  de- 
scribed, I  have  adopted  the  English  specific  name  pro- 
posed by  Mr.  W.  Bullock,  of  the  Egyptian  Hall,  Pic- 
cadilly; in  whose  museum  the  bird  is  placed.  The 
name  of  burgomaster  is  that  by  which  it  is  familiarly 
known  among  the  Greenland  men. 

The  white-winged  gull  is  generally  solitary;  most 
likely  the  female  being  then,  namely,  in  June,  in  the 
state  of  incubation  ;  but,  in  the  latter  end  of  the  sum- 
mer, they  sometimes  appear  in  pairs,  attended  by  one 
young  one.  This  bird  seems  to  partake  of  a  quality 
remarkable  to  all  large  animals — an  indolence,  or 
love  of  ease  :  his  mode  of  flight  indicates  this  disposi- 
tion. A  continued,  slow  and  heavy  stroke,  carries  him 
forward  with  a  speed  much  greater  than  one  would 
suppose  from  his  motion.  His  more  bustling  and  vo- 
racious neighbour,  the  mallemuck,  gives  him  no  con- 
cern; and  that  quarrelsome  gourmand  is  never  seen 
to  interfere  with  the  purposes  of  his  gigantic  compa- 
nion. The  larus  maximur,  however,  frequents  the 
places  where  the  offals  of  whales  may  be  found  ;  but 
he  is  extremely  shy,  and  carefully  keeps  at  a  great 
distance.  His  cry  is  pleasing,  weak,  and  plaintive, 
yet  may  be  heard  a  good  way  off. 

Larus  Eburneus,  (the  ivory  gull,  or  ice  bird.)  This 
truly  beautiful  bird  has  the  plumage  as  white  as  snow 
when  full  grown  ;  but  the  young  are  elegantly  diver- 
sified with  spots  of  black.  Eye,  jet  black;  bill  and 
legs,  lead  colour;  sixteen  inches  long.     This  bird,  so 


I 


ARCTIC  ZOOLOGY. 


123 


pleasin;^-  to  t.lic  observer,  is  sure  to  torture  hitn  with  its 
pcrj)ctual  and  disagreeable  screaming. 

Lams  Ca'ius  (common  gray  gall)  is  not  frequently 
seen.  The  same  may  be  observed  of  the  L.  cataractes, 
or  skua  gull,  and  also  of  the  L.  fuscus,  or  herring  gull. 

Lams  Tridactylus  (kittiuakc  or  tarrock)  is  very 
numerous  in  Davis's  Strait.  The  trivial  name  is  de- 
rived from  its  cry,  which  is  a  shrill  scream,  somewhat 
resembling  the  word  kittiwake.  It  may  be  known 
from  the  young  ivory  gull,  by  the  bill  being  yellowish, 
and  the  mouth  of  a  saifron  colour  within. 

Lams  Parysiticus  (arctic  gull,  or  boatswain.)  This 
bird  is  very  rapacious,  pursuing  the  weaker  gulh3 
until  fear  from  continued  pursuit  causes  them  to  dis- 
charge what  they  have  eaten,  which  it  dexterously 
catches  and  devours  before  it  can  reach  the  water. 
The  two  middle  tail  feathers  are  \ery  long,  but  the 
females  are  said  to  be  destitute  of  this  mark :  many 
of  the  species  being  seen  together,  a  few  only  have 
those  remarkable  feathers.  The  boatswain  is  very 
fond  of  flying  round  the  penants  of  the  ships,  but  no 
cause  can  be  assigned  for  this  singular  habit.  Its 
colour  is  generally  brown. 

Stuna  Ilimndo,  (the  greater  tern.)  This  beautiful 
bird  is  seen  in  great  numbers,  sometimes  thousands  to" 
gether,  resting  on  an  ice  berg,  and,  when  on  wing, 
exhibits  a  graceful  and  elegant  flight.  The  S.  hirundo 
seeks  its  food,  which  is  mostly  the  cho  retusa,  or  some 
other  mollusca,  by  plunging  into  the  Water  sometimes 
six  inches  and  more,  at  which  depth  that  little  clio 
plies  his  flimsy  oar  in  company  with  the  gaudy  medusa 
pileus,  and  others  of  that  genus.     The  tern,  or  as  it 


;» ,1 


)! 


\   \i 


'VT 


^   I 


r 


.  / 


;M 


h 


V  7 


5'  \i  '■^ 


i 


121 


AUCfiC  ZOOLOGf. 


is  called  the  sea-swallow,  is  in  Hesli  not  mncli  larger 
lha!i  a  lark,  though  to  tlie  extremity  of  Its  forked  tail 
it  measures  twelve  inches.  The  win£^s  are  \ery  lon^ 
and  light;  bill  and  legs,  crimson;  the  former  tipped 
with  black;  cap  and  oculai'  band,  black;  back  and 
wings,  cinereous;  outer  tail-feathers,  edged  with  black; 
rest  of  die  body  white. 

Cohjrhus  Troik,  (foolish  g'-iillemot.)  Inimense  flocks 
of  these  birds  annually  visit  Davis's  Strait;   but  they 
seldom  go  much  further  north  than  the  seventy-tliird 
degree.     The  sailors  give  them  the  name  of  looms. 
The  body  is  bh'ck;  breast  and  belly,  snowy;  secon- 
dary quill  feathers,  tipped  with  white  ;  bill,  black  and 
slender,  the  edges  sharp  and  compressed,  and  covered 
with  short  feathers  at  the  base.     This  last  character 
is  distinctive   of  the    genus.     The   loom  is   eagerly 
chased  by  the  Uskee-me,  who  finds  in  such  pursuit 
the  highest  gratification.    When  approaching  to  strike 
the  loom,  the  Uskee  stoops  very  low,  his  chin  almost 
resting  on  the  kaiak,  paddling  with  his  left  hand,  and, 
with  his  dart  ready  in  his  right,  he  advances  singing 
in-  whistling  low  and  pleasing  notes,  whilst  the  bird, 
justly  called  the  foolish  guillemot,  rather  amused  than 
alarmed,  aw  aits  his  pursuer's  approach,  who,  from  his 
singular  accuracy  of  aim,  and  experience  of  distance, 
seldom  fails  to  strike  his  object.     The  warm  blood  of 
the  loom  is  a  delicious  cordial  on  the   occasion,  and 
the  flesh  a  ready  repast.     The  skin  is  much  prized  as 
material  for  inside  dress,  for  which  it  is  certainly  well 
calculated,  from  the  depth  of  the  plumage.     A  proof 
of  the  estimation  in  which  this  little  capture  is  held 
among  the  Greenlanders  is  their  unwillingness  to  bar- 


..  ^-^    ; 


■r 


ARCTIC    ZOOLOGY. 


12.') 


-v 


ter  those  birds  with  Europeans,  the  highest  compli- 
ment being  an  olFer  of  truck  for  one  ol'  them.  The 
loom  is  seventeen  inches  in  length. 

Colymbus  Gnjlk,  (black  guillemot,  or  dovekee.)  The 
many  changes  of  plumage  which  this  bird  puts  on, 
from  variety  of  climate,  and  such  other  circumstances 
as  sway  its  habits,  admit  a  description  only  of  its  gene- 
ral characters.  Body  above,  sooty  black ;  wiiig  co- 
verts, white,  or  white  intermixed  with  light-brown  ; 
body  beneath,  white;  bill,  black  and  long;  inside  of 
the  mouth  and  legs,  red  ;  length,  from  twelve  to  four- 
teen inches. 

The  habits  of  the  dovekee  are  scarcely  different 
from  those  of  the  loom.     Like  the  latter,  it  is  grega- 
rious :  but  seldom  joining  in  society  with  others  of  the 
genus.     No  evident  hostility  forbids  association  among 
those  devotees  of  gluttony  ;  yet  they  are  found  invari- 
ably separated  in  flocks  of  distinct  species.     An  odd 
dovekee  is  sometimes  observed  among  the  throng  of 
Col.  glocitans,  and  that  in  their  most  northern  migra- 
tion.    Sea  being  the  dovekee's  home,  this  bird  has  lit- 
tle intercourse  with  land,  except  for  the  purpose  of 
incubation.     Its  nest  is  on  the  ground  exposed,  and 
merely  temporary;  always  near  the  grand  retreat. 
This  dwelling  is  extremely  simple,  and  formed  of  such 
adjacent  materials  as  the  site  will  supply.     Tenant  at 
will,  the  dovekee  seeks  not  for  much  luxury ;  and  the 
whole  of  its  active  life  seems  to  be  similar  to  that  of 
the  human  lord  who  derives  his  scanty   and  preca- 
rious sustenance  from  the  same  waters,  in  the  same 
situation. 


I 


'I 


■p- 


1^ 


V' 


12(i 


ARCTir  ZOOLCX.V. 


// 


} ; 


'I' 


M 


Coljimhns  (Uovitans^  (the  roch.)  I'his  bird  is  new  in 
dcscriplion^  and  is  peculiarly  remarkable  from  its  frc- 
(jiK^H;)  and  softness  of  call.  Hence  it  merits  the  spe- 
cific name  which  I  have  ventured  to  assign  it.  Bill, 
short  and  black  ;  both  mandibles,  arched,  the  eds^es 
compressed  and  sharp ;  head,  neck  and  body  above, 
sooty  black ;  wings,  light-brown,  irregularly  mixed 
with  white;  bill  and  scapulars,  white  ;  legs,  black: 
length,  when  fully  grown,  ten  inches. 

The  roch  is  tlie  remotest  and  last  visiter  of  Davis's 
Strait,  which  it  frequents  in  immense  flocks,  darkening 
t!ie  surface  of  the  sea,  and  with  its  incessant  call  enli- 
vening that  dreary  scene,  where  nature  seems  wrap[)ed 
in  eternal  slumber.  In  view  of  the  Linna^an  Isles,  the 
water  is  covered  with  millions  of  this  species,  where 
their  favourite  food,  the  clio  retusa,  abounds.  Some- 
times an  individual  dovekce  is  seen  in  the  throng,  or 
the  majestic  and  solitary  burgomaster.  When  the 
returnirig  sun  warns  for  general  departure,  the  roch 
is  the  last  to  disappear.  Ordinarily  its  flight  is  low, 
close  to  the  surface  of  the  sea,  which  in  that  high 
latitude,  during  the  summer  months,  is  mostly  calm; 
but  when  mijrratins;,  the  flock  assumes  an  elevation 
of  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and  may,  at  any  distance 
in  sight,  be  distinguished  by  its  rapid  and  hurried 
movement. 

This  bird  employs  both  wings  and  webbed  kei 
when  under  the  surface  of  the  water.  Often,  when 
Suddenly  overtaken,  have  1  seen  them  make  such  ex- 
ertion, plunging  in  a  twinkling,  and,  rowing  away  from 
the  cause  of  alarm,  yet  not  forgetful  of  their  purpose. 


'If 


■■'^-i--3.. 


II  4 


ARCTIC    ZOOLOGY. 


127 


seize  the  flimsy  clio  in  tlieir  j)rogrcss.  On  emerging, 
XUcy  are  able  at  once  to  take  fliglit,  wirurli  facility  they 
derive  iVoni  the  ahuntlance  of  oil  whitli  they  possess. 
The  flesh  is  esteemed  good.  This  |)i-(>dilection  may 
proceed  from  a  desire  to  enjoy  fresh  meat  ;  and  an 
apprehension  may  be  entertained  that  few  dehcate 
appetites  would  relish  a  pye  formed  of  a  bird  of  its 
unsavoury  habits. 

Many  other  subjects  in  the  zoology  of  Greenland 
remain  to  be  described  ;  but  I  beg  leave  to  refer  the 
reader,  for  the  more  minute  ones,  to  the  accurate  work 
of  Fabricius,  Fauna  Ura?nlandica,  where  will  be  found 
interesting  and  elegant  descriptions  of  animals  collect- 
ed in  the  course  of  many  years*  observation. 

One  circumstance,  however,  I  must  not  omit,  as  it 
oilers  an  explanation  in  natural  history  hitherto  desir- 
ed. A  species  of  s(jualus  is  to  be  met  with  in  Davis's 
Strait,  by  sailors  called  the  blind  shark,  which  is  sup- 
posed to  be  an  applicable  name,  from  the  temerity  with 
which  the  animal,  regardless  of  his  own  salc.y,  rushes 
to  his  prey.  This  shark  is  about  four  feet  in  length, 
body  dark  blue,  shaded  with  brown  on  the  sides,  and 
is  very  steady  and  slow  in  movement.  A  whale  (B. 
M.)  having  been  killed,  and  made  fast  alongside  the 
ship,  the  men  being  in  the  act  of  flinching,  one  of  these 
sharks  came  up,  and  fastened  on  the  body,  with  a  cir- 
cular scoop  cutting  out  the  part  seized,  and  whilst  so 
engaged,  bore  to  be  stabbed  several  times  by  one  of 
the  ship-boys.  The  assertion,  therefore,  that  the  shark 
turns  on  the  back  for  the  purpose  of  snapping  his  prey 
is  incorrect.     That  eflectis  produced  by  the  sweep  in 


\) 


'1  ■■ 


■»    I 


f  li 


^ 


f 


i  •■  ' 


,#^ 


I 


\tr> 


h 


i  > 


H 


« 


128 


ARCTIC    ZOOLOGY. 


the  circular  revolution,  by  which  the  numerous  rows 
of  the  angular  and  edged  teeth  in  the  jaws  of  the 
animal  arc  brought  into  successive  action.  It  is  pro- 
bable that  it  was  in  observing  the  body  of  the  shark 
up-turned  in  this  revolution  that  the  error  first  arose. 


,i 


^.^Adfcii^^v^.'i 


129 


CHAPTER  VI. 


ON    THE    EFFECTING    OF    A    NORTH-WEST    PASSAGE. 


Since  these  pages  were  commenced,  I  have  been  in- 
formed by  the  newspapers,  that  ships  are  fitting  out 
bj  orders  of  the  Admiralty  to  explore  a  passage  to  the 
Pacific  Ocean  through  the  arctic  seas.  The  reader 
will  excuse  tke  insertion  here  of  an  article  that  ap- 
peared to  that  effect.  I  do  not  wish  to  load  my  page 
with  quotations ;  but  this  seems  of  some  importance, 
as  it  refers  to  the  first  authority  on  this  subject. 

"  We  learn  that  a  vessel  is  to  be  fitted  out  by  Go- 
vernment for  the  purpose  of  attempting  again  the 
north-west  passage,  the  season  being  considered  as 
peculiarly  favourable  to  such  an  expedition.  Our 
readers  need  not  be  informed  that  larger  masses  of  ice 
than  ever  were  before  known  have  this  vt?ar  been 
seen  floating  in  the  Atlantic,  and  that  from  their  mag- 
nitude and  solidity,  they  reached  even  the  fortieth  lati- 
tude before  they  were  melted  into  a  fluid  state.  From 
an  examination  of  the  Greenland  captains,  it  has  been 
found  that,  owing  to  some  convulsions  of  nature,  the 
sea  was  more  open  and  more  fi  ee  from  compact  ice 
than  in  any  former  vojage  they  ever  made ;  that  seve- 
ral ships  actually  reached  the  eighty-fourth  degree  of 
latitude,  in  which  no  ice  whatever  was  found  ;  that, 
for  the  first  lime  for  100  years,  vessels  penetrated  to 

17 


i 


130 


ON  THE  EFFECTING  OF 


1 


I* 


>) 


tlie  west  coast  of  Greenland,  and  that  they  appre- 
hended no  obstacle  to  their  even  reaching  the  pole, 
if  it  had  consisted  with  their  duty  to  their  employers 
to  make  the  attenjpt.  This  curious  and  important  in- 
formation has,  we  learn,  induced  the  Royal  Society  to 
apply  to  ministers  to  renew  the  attempt  of  exploring 
a  north-west  passage,  as  well  as  to  give  encourage- 
ment to  fishing  vessels  to  try  how  far  northward  they 
can  reach,  by  dividing  the  bounty  to  be  given,  on  the 
actual  discovery,  into  portions,  as  a  reward  for  every 
degree  beyond  eighty-four  that  they  shall  penetrate. 
For  the  same  reason,  we  think  it  would  be  adviseable 
for  the  merchants  engaged  in  the  Greenland  whale 
fishery  not  to  postpone  the  sailing  of  their  ships  to  the 
usual  season,  but  expedite  them  at  once  §p  as  to  take 
advantage  of  the  temporary  fresh." 

In  addition  to  the  above,  another  notification  infonns 
the  public,  that 

"  Capt.  Buchan,  of  the  Pike  sloop  of  war,  recently 
returned  from  Newfoundland,  is  appointed  to  the  ex- 
pedition to  the  north  pole.  Capt.  Ross  is  the  other 
officer  who  proceeds  thither.  They  are  to  be  accom- 
panied by  four  lieutenants,  one  attached  to  each  of 
the  captains,  and  the  others  to  command  the  two  ves- 
sels to  act  as  tenders.  Two  of  the  ships,  as  we  before 
stated,  proceed  up  Davis's  Strait,  the  extent  or  ter- 
mination of  which  is  utterly  unknown,  and  the  other 
two  direct,  if  possible,  to  the  pole,  between  Iceland  and 
Greenland.  The  ships  are  to  be  ready  for  sea  by  the 
first  week  in  March." 

Now,  if  these  notifications  convey  the  information 
on  which  the  intended  expeditions  are  directed,  ar; 


'ti 


A  NORTH-WEST  PASSAGE. 


131 


some  doubt  possesses  my  mind  on  t'nc  accuracy  of 
that  information,  I  shall  submit  to  public  considera- 
tion a  few  remarks  on  this  head,  and  shall  afterwards 
briefly  set  before  the  reader  an  accurate  journal  of 
some  months'  traversing  of  Davis's  Strait  noted  falth- 
fidly  by  myself. 

Every  information  coming  by  newspaper  account 
carries,  from  the  abuse  of  some  such  publications, 
strong  features  of  want  of  authenticity  ;  but,  in  the 
present  instance,  where  the  names  of  captains  in  the 
navy,  of  most  reputable  character,  are  introduced, 
no  doubt  can  exist  as  to  the  fact  of  the  expediuons 
being  in  preparation.  These  notifications,  however, 
would  imply  that  the  direction  is  fixed  towards  the 
north  pole  :  such  a  project  cannot  be  grounded  on 
what  has  been  found  from  an  examination  of  tfio 
Greenland  captains,  who  are  reported  to  assert  that, 
*'  owing  to  some  convulsions  of  nature,  the  sea  was 
more  open  and  more  free  from  compact  ice  than  in 
any  former  voyage  they  ever  made."  The  masters 
of  whale  ships  are  forbidden  by  a  solemn  oath,*  which 


*  1 master  of  the  ship  ....  m:ike  orith,  that 

it  is  really  and  truly  my  firm  purpose,  and  dcterininod  rcsolulioii. 
that  the  said  ship  shall,  as  soon  as  license  shall  he  sijraiitcd,  iorth- 
with  proceed  so  manned,  furnished,  and  accoutred,  on  a  vnya<^e 
to  the  Greenland  seas,  or  Davis's  Strait,  or  the  sc;is  ailjaccnt, 
there  in  the  now  approaching  season,  to  use  the  utmost  endeavour 
of  myself  and  ships  company,  to  take  whali^s  or  oiiier  creatures 
living  in  the  seas,  and  on  no  other  design  or  view  of  profit,  in  my 
present  voyage,  and  to   import  the  wliale  fins,   oil,   atul  hhihhcr 

thereof  into  the  port  of Sworn,  kc.  at  the  CuHtom 

House ^r. 


',\ 


132 


ON    THE   EFFECTIVE  OP 


i(t; 


they  must  subscribe  to,  in  the  Custom  House,  before 
clearing  out  the  voyage,  to  seek  nothing  but  bhib- 
ber ;  and  this  oath,  or  its  reward  from  their  owners, 
if  faithfully  kept  in  view,  unfits  them  for  affording 
proper  or  satisfactory  information  to  philosophical  in- 
quiry. The  trite  vulgar  phrase,  "  for  want  of  a  bet- 
ter that  must  do,"  applies  to  such  an  investigation 
with  no  complimentary  effect.  If  accurate  informa- 
tion be  desirable  on  this  important  subject,  why  derive 
it  from  such  erroneous  chance,  wherein  the  binding  of 
a  parliamentary  oath  forbids  the  deponent  to  know 
any  thing  of  the  matter  .'* 

The  reader  will  look  with  surprise  at  such  lan- 
guage as  the  following,  conveying  information  on  an 
important  and  philosophic  subject,  "  Masses  of  ice, 
larger  than  ever  before  known,  were  seen  floating  in 
the  Atlantic,  and  from  their  magnitude  and  solidity, 
reached  the  fortieth  degree  of  latitude  before  they 
were  melted  into  a  fluid  state."  It  cannot  be  imagin- 
ed that  such  a  story  would  recommend  a  sensible  ap- 
plication to  any  persons  knowing  the  nature  of  ice. 
The  specific  gravity  of  that  substance  is  lighter  than 
that  of  water :  ice  floats  in  fresh  water,  which  is 
much  lighter  than  salt  or  seawater;  and  chemical 
observation  has  proved  that  one  of  the  chief  causes 
of  its  buoyancy  in  the  latter  fluid  is  from  the  mass 
losing  its  salt,  which  precipitates  as  the  congelation 
proceeds.  Another  objection  to  the  sufficiency  of  this 
account  is  derivable  from  the  terms  "  solid,"  and 
"  compact,"  when  applied  to  ice ;  for  surely  no  philo- 
sophic mind  would  lind  it  right  to  admit  such  phraseo- 
logy   in    any    grave    representation.      Again,   "  the 


A    NORTH-WEST    PAaSAdi:. 


133 


Greenland  whale  fishery,"  inserted  in  sucli  a  commu- 
nication, would  be  matter  of  curious  reading  to  per- 
sons knowing  that  wiiales  are  not  scientifically  do- 
nominated  fish.  Equally  unfit  would  it  be  to  repre- 
sent, in  such  an  application,  that  "it  would  be  ad- 
viseable  for  the  merchants  eneaeed  in  the  Greenland 
whale  fishery,  not  to  postpone  the  sailing  of  their 
ships  to  the  usual  season,  })ut  to  expedite  tho;n  at 
once,  so  as  to  take  advantage  of  the  temporary  fresh.*' 
The  adviser  of  such  expediting  sliould  be  aware  thai 
the  ice  in  the  arctic  seas  l:>reaks  up  only  about  a  cer- 
tain period,  in  the  latter  end  of  the  month  of  April  or 
beginning  of  May,  of  which  event  the  whalers  are  so 
well  aware,  tliat  the  Davis's  Strait  ships  are  sent  off 
only  in  the  beginning  of  March,  that  the  lengtii  oT 
time  necessary  for  traversing  the  Atlantic  may  suit 
the  usual  opening  of  the  ice ;  whereas  those  ••  ex- 
pedited" for  the  Sj)itzbergen  sea  are  detained  nearlv 
a  month  later.  Besides,  those  who  would  be  di 
rected  by  such  an  advice  ought  to  be  aware  that  ru. 
such  thing  as  a  temporary  fiesh  exists  in  the  nordiern 
seas.  The  current  is  steadily  and  unifoiinly  south 
ward  ;  and  the  great  expanse  of  those  waters  give;^ 
such  room  for  the  diffusion  of  ice  reduced  to  its  liquid 
oriiiin,  and  the  accession  of  the  streams  issuino-  i'lou. 
die  numerous  fiords  and  rivers,  that  such  a  frcr^ii  i^ 
never  experienced.  The  sage  solution  of  St.  Pierre 
widi  lefjard  to  the  supply  of  material  lor  the  daii\ 
rise  of  the  tide,  is  less  reprehensible,  but  equally 
speculative.  The  delightful  novelist  just  mentioned, 
sittinsr  in  his  closet,  remarked  the  inlluence  of  the  sun 
as  dilferinff  very  materially  duriuii;  tlie  dav  and  ui^djl 


'  i 


:    f 


I 


J  M 


OS    THE    EFFKCTIXC;    OF 


\Vi 


i 


:l 


it 


ifr 


The  iorce  o(  imagination  made  him  conclude  that  from 
the  unknown  seas  around  the  north  pole,  a  diurnal 
supply  could  be  derived  from  the  action  of  the  sun 
upon  the  ice.  In  convincing  himself  that  the  sun's 
rays  actually  dissolve  ice,  and  that  the  light  and  in- 
fluence of  that  globe  is  communicated  to  our  earth 
once  every  twenty-four  hours,  the  succession  of  the 
ebb  and  flow  twice  in  that  period  became  evident. 
The  tides  as  experienced,  however,  in  more  southern 
latitudes  should  be,  from  such  cause,  only  two  every 
year,  or,  at  least,  there  should  be  a  very  remarkable 
increase  only  when  the  solution  of  polar  ice  is  com- 
plete, which  should  be  in  the  middle  of  August,  while 
it  should  be  very  low  when  the  surface  of  the  polar 
seas  is  bound  in  its  wintry  coat,  which  is  most  solid 
and  unbroken  in  February. 

To  be  acquainted  with  the  arctic  seas,  one  must 
visit  those  regions ;  for,  from  my  own  experience,  I 
assert,  that  in  no  other  way  can  a  useful  and  accu- 
rate knowledge  of  the  subject  be  obtained.  It  is 
quite  absurd  that  persons  not  accustomed  to  sea 
-.hould  undertake  a  demarkation  of  a  ship's  course, 
directing  a  certain  line  of  longitude  to  be  adhered  to, 
as  was  dictated  to  the  late  Lord  Mulgrave.  Such 
sapience  is  as  much  to  be  admired  as  that  of  the 
Roman  Pontiff  who  cut  out  the  Brazils  from  South 
America  in  a  similar  manner.  Those  who  know  the 
arctic  seas  are  aware  of  the  impossibility  of  adhering 
to  such  an  order ;  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that,  for  the 
safety  of  the  crews,  and  the  success  of  the  intended  ex- 
peditions, such  a  tying  up  of  hands  will  not  be  in- 
sisted on.     When  the  subject  hereafter  may  admit 


1 


A    NORTH-WEST    PASSAGE. 


13.) 


ot*  a  full  delineation  of  its  difficulties  and  dangers, 
to  which  I  presume  the  facts  of  the  following  Jour- 
nal* may  be  deemed  properly  antecedent,  the  above 
intimation  will  be  found  not  irrelevant  to  the  ex- 
pedition. 

Considering  here  only  the  more  generally  interest- 


:i 


\  '  1 


#'l 


)URNAL  IN  DAVIS'S  STRAIT. 


Thursday,  May  8 :  thermometer  20",  IS**,  12°:  wind  S.  \\ . 
strong  breeze  :  off  Disko  Bay :  two  whales  seen,  and  one  seal  : 
cirrostratus  in  haze,  and  some  more  dense  lower  down  :  some 
natives,  each  carryins;  his  canoe  on  his  head,  passed  over  the 
ice,  and  visited  two  ships  which  were  in-shore  flinching ; 
some  very  large  bergs  in  sight  surrounded  by  field  ice :  the  cold 
this  evening  increased  very  much  ;  snow  fell  at  times,  thick  and 
hard. 

May  9  :  ther.  15",  So*',  16° :  wind  S.  E.,  fresh  breeze  :  much 
snow  fell  during  the  preceding  night :  appearance  of  cloud 
cirrus  fine,  comoid  and  undulate  :  cirrocumulus  and  cirrostratus 
during  the  day,  apparently  near  Disko,  yet  many  miles  distant 
from  that  Island :  thermometer  exceedingly  variable  throughout 
the  course  of  the  day,  till  10  p.  m.  when  the  last  observation 
was  noted  :  in  the  evening  a  yellowish  white  cloak  of  cirros- 
tratus was  spread  over  the  summit  of  Disko  ;  this  colour  is  in- 
variably communicated  to  the  atmosphere  where  bergy  ice  i« 
present :  larus  maximus  and  procellaria  glacialis  in  scanty  num- 
ber, also  a  very  few  of  larus  tridactylus  :  thermometer  at  mid- 
night 12". 

May  10  :  ther.  ID**,  IG**,  IS** :  wind  S.,  light  breeze  :  freez- 
ing intensely  :  sea  nearly  tranquil  ;  the  surface  congealed  in  ex- 
tensive fields,  which  are  interrupted  by  spaces  kept  free  by  the 
action  of  the  wind  :  cumulostratus  to  the  eastward  ;  a  fine,  highly 
illumined  stratus  to  the  southward  ;  all  else  clear  of  cloud,  but  of 
a  milky  blue  :   tUe  light  iutoleruble  to  the  eye  :  at  8  a.  m.  ihe 


I     I 


ti 


136 


0^    THK    Kri''K(TI\(;    of 


ing  circumstances  of  my  journal,  I  may  observe  that, 
at  Lievely,  Avliicli  wc  approarhod  on  the  12th  of  May, 
the  Danish  government  kcjps  a  colony  under  the  su- 
pciintendance  of  an  officer,  Avhose  chief  residence  is 
said  to  be  at  the  whale  islands,  and  under  his  di- 
rection other  agents  or  factors  take  care  of  the  in- 


tl 


iiinueiice  of  the  sun  having  raised  a  light  vapour  from  the  surface 
of  the  ice,  this  became  immediately  condensed  by  the  intense 
cold  ;  and,  drifting  along  the  surface  of  the  water  in  irregular 
spires,  whenever  met  with,  was  found  to  be  a  cloud  of  minute 
icy  particles,  extremely  annoying ;  and,  from  its  effects,  styled 
by  the  sailors,  "  the  barber  :"  snow  at  times  :  day  ended  with  icy 
snow. 

May  11  :  15",  23«,  16"  :  wind  S.  S.  E.,  fresh  to  strong  breeze: 
cold  less  than  on  the  preceding  day  :  atmosphere  at  times  loaded 
with  milky  haze  ;  which,  on  clearing,  afforded  a  view  of  beautiful 
snowy  cirrocumulus,  and  in  its  aggregation  exhibiting  a  changing 
variety  of  cirrostratus  :  close  in  with  Disko,  westward  of  Fortune 
Bay,  some  huge  bergs  embedded  in  flaws  of  field  ice  many 
miles  in  extent  ;  larus  mar  i,  procellaria  glacialis,  colymbus 
troile. 

May  12  :  ther.  20«,  24",  20"  :  wind  from  W.  to  S.  E.,  fresh 
breeze  :  trailing  masses  of  cumulus  passed  frequently  across  the 
sky  :  cumulostratus,  and  occasionally  cirrocumulus  seen  :  ex- 
tensive flaws  descending  from  the  northward  with  a  strong  cur- 
rent, the  ice  being  about  two  feet  in  thickness  :  Lievely  Point  not 
far  distant  :  the  whale  islands  lying  to  the  S.  W.  :  procellaria  gla- 
cialis, corvus  corux,  and  some  ducks  observed. 

May  13:  thcr.  25",  33",  24":  wind  variable  from  N.  E.  to 
N.  W.,  fresh  breeze:  cirrostratus  in  mist:  a  long  spreading 
sheet  in  N.  E.  and  very  dark  linear  parallel  layers  of  the 
same  in  E.  :  the  horizon  exhibits  a  characteristic  instance  of 
ice  blink.  The  procellaria  glacialis  this  day  active,  and  in 
vast  number  :  some  rain  preceded  a  short  fall   of  snow  in  the 


evening. 


\     NORTH-WEST    TASSAGE. 


137 


terests  of  the  government,  which  are  chiefly  main- 
tained hy  the  industry  of  the  natives,  and  Danish  con- 
victs sent  tliither  for  their  oJTences  at  home  This 
pohcy  is  not  obviously  calculated  to  improve  the  con- 
dition of  the  poor  Circenlanders,  nor  to  aid  materially 
the  labours  of  the  missionaries.     The  efforts  of  those 


May  14  :  V.w.v.  24",  :iV,'\  L'fi'^  :  wind,  nearly  calm,  variable  to 
S.  :  ill  the  soutlnvani  a  heap  of  cumiilostratus  :  tliR  summits  in- 
tensely white  :  brown  and  white  cirrostratns  Hoating  slowly  over 
the  summit  of  Disko  :  weather  at  noon  mild  and  pleasant  :  in  the 
aflernoon  the  state  of  atmosphere  was  a  light  grayish  brown 
luizc,  blending  land,  ice  and  sea,  into  one  immeasurable  field  ; 
and,  with  the  exception  of  the  summit  of  Disko,  making  the  scene 
interminable. 

May  15:  ther.  30",  31",  32":  wind  calm  throughout:  sun 
in  a  dim  corona  :  misty  brown  cirrostratns  creeping  along  the 
breast  of  Disko,  about  half  of  its  elevation  :  sea  still  and 
smooth  :  several  very  large  seals  seen,  but  too  cautious  to  be 
come  at. 

May  16  :  ther.  31",  34",  27"  :  wind  W.,  light  breeze  :  some 
snow  and  rain,  at  intervals  sleet  :  weather  mild  :  ship  in  company 
with  many  others  at  Fortune  Point,  made  fast  to  a  berg  :  saw  a  fox 
and  a  bear  this  day :  in  the  valley  west  of  Fortune  Bay,  a  flood  of 
cirrostratus,  in  snowy  fleeces,  spilling  down  from  the  summit  ol" 
the  mountain :  cirrus. 

May  17:  ther.  34°,  51",  36°:  wind  calm :  in  Love  Bay,  at 
Disko,  lat.  observed  69°  10'  N.  ;  the  atmosphere  heated  very 
much  towards  the  afternoon  :  the  cirrus  radiation,  as  heretofore 
observed,  occurred  this  evening,  at  a  great  elevation,  running 
from  the  southward. 

May  18  :  ther.  40°,  50°,  34"  :  wind,  light  air  and  variable 
from  N.  :  at  8  ,y.  m.  wind  increased  in  the  same  point  to  fresh 
breeze,  which  was  pre-indicated  by  the  radiation  of  last  day  :  ex- 
tensive but  loose  cirrocumulus  slightly  obscuring  the  sun  :  ship 

18 


i 


i  I? 


li 


isn 


i)N   Till",  lffkctim;  of 


l)eiiu\olri»t  |tListors  are  much  coiinteracletl  by  tlie 
iiljantloncil  habits  ol'  the  convicts,  who  intermarry  with 
the  natives;  and,  as  tlie  latter  now  are  convinced, 
endeavour  to  debase  the  national  character.  *'  Those 
strangers,*'  they  say,  "are  lielpless  and  had;  know 
not  the  use  of  the  paddle  or  dart,  and  ii"  left  to  thcm- 


'J' 


Hi   «! 


still  fn>'l  to  ice  in  Lovn  Bay  :  coarse  sand  in  seventeen  fathoms  of 
sounding. 

'J'lie  tide  ri-iPS  here  about  eight  feet  :  the  ice  began  now  slowly 
moving  down  to  the  "southward,  and  shut  in  the  point  of  Lievely  ; 
.1  shoal  of  delphinus  leucas  seen,  each  about  ten  feet  in  length  :  a 
j)uir  of  ravens  seen. 

May  19  :  ther.  32'>,  34',  28'  :  wind  N.,  light  breeze  :  general 
diiVusion  of  brownish-gray  cinostratus  :  the  sun  light  intense, 
allows  a  distinct  view  of  objects  the  most  distant :  Disko  clear  : 
atmosphere  mildly  warm  :  ship  cast  otf  from  the  ice  as  it  began 
to  open  freely  :  course  directed  to  the  N.  W.  as  all  the  South 
East  Bay  and  the  Way  gat  Sound  were  closed,  according  to 
the  report  of  the  natives  :  one  blubber  whale  and  a  seal  seen  : 
also  a  raven,  a  few  looms,  and  a  small  number  of  procellaria 
glacialis  on  vving,  proceeding  to  the  north-westward. 

May  20:  ther.  26°,  32",  34*^  :  wind,  alight  air  from  S. :  at- 
mosphere loaded  with  vapoury  cirrostratus,  variously  coloured 
liy  the  suu-light :  the  ice  blink  very  remarkable  where  an  ice 
berg  lies  in  the  horizon  :  about  noon  the  cloud  cleared  up  under 
the  strong  influence  of  the  sun,  forming  cirrus  alternating  with 
cirrocumulus  :  a  light  brown  cirrus  radiation  appeared  in  the 
westward,  risini!;  from  an  interrupted  chain  of  cirrostratous  patches, 
which  formed  the  segment  of  a  circle,  having  its  centre  towards 
(he  zenith  :  this  curve  became  reversed  as  the  radiation  dis- 
persed, the  centre  then  being  towards  the  horizon  :  the  wind 
Idevv  a  fresh  breeze  from  that  point  after  an  interval  of  nearly 
tour  hours:  in  this  part  of  the  Strait  the  wind  is  very  variable, 
and  seldom  of  long  duration  :  at  midnight  tlie  sun  just  reached  the 


1 

m 


iif-ailfw,-. 


\     NORTH-WEST    PASSAGE. 


139 


selves  must  starve."'  European  vices,  through  such 
means,  have  also  iomid  their  way  to  tiie  liuts  of  tiiis 
harmless  people  ;  and  even  the  bargains  elFected  hy 
iheir  governors  are  so  severe  upon  tlu'ir  miserable 
means,  as  to  make  tiiem  little  satisfied  of  tiieir  sense 
of  justice. 


A- 
'  ■  'I 


' 


Ijoii/oii,  sliroiuled  in  a  (Iccj)  brown  mantle  of  cirroslratiH,  willi 
a  rich  redilish-Iirown  border  next  tlic  water  ;  above  and  around 
were  beautiful  exhibitions  of  cirrocuniuhis  and  cirrns,  some  re- 
taining tiieir  forms  for  a  loii<;  time,  and  otiiers  imperceptibly  ii\- 
ferchanging  shapes  :  the  moon  appeared  distinctly  at  a  great  ele- 
vation in  the  N.  W.*  It  is  remarked  among  the  whaler.*,  that 
when  the  moon  appears  in  those  hititudes,  it  is  a  sure  indication  of 
foul  weather:  in  the  present  case,  however,  this  assurance  was 
found  to  be  incorrect. 

May  21  :  ther.  39^  42°,  32=  :  wind  perfectly  calm  :  morning  de- 
lightfully line,  such  as  would  appear  most  charmiMg  to  the  senses, 
if  the  beauties  of  vcu-etation  were  added  to  the  scene  :  sun-ligh( 
intensely  bright :  not  a  speck  of  cloud  to  be  seen  :  -Disko  in  the 
distance  unclouded  :  packs  of  ice  all  around  :  the  whale  boats 
l)usy  in  every  direction,  a  few  of  what  are  called  "  straggling  fish" 
having  appeared  :  the  whales  so  seen  were  running  rapidly  in 
many  directions,  but  chielly  towards  the  north-west.  Many  seals 
continued  sporting  in  view  this  evening :  a  iew  looms,  but  no 
other  birds  seen. 

May  29.  :  ther.  32',  42%  30=  :  wind  S.  S.  W.,  light  breeze 
from  variable  :  Disko  crowned  with  brown  ciirostratus  :  others 
appear  in  profile  pointing  north  and  south  :  the  day  continued  un- 
usually fine  :  procellaria  glacialis,  larus  tridactylus  and  ranus  in 
small  number  :  a  few  seals  appeared,  but  were  evidently  verv 
cautious,  from  the  habitual  persecution  of  the  natives. 

May  23  :  ther.  20',  33  =  ,  32'  :  wind  N.  E.  shifting  to  S.  W.. 
fresh  breeze  :  dark  vapoury  cirroslratus,  and  others  in  profde. 


■  ■  ^: 


All  bcanims  nicntiono'.l  in  llii>  ioiiriiiil  wrc  hy  rompa'?. 


-•*•' 


140 


ON  THi:  F.PFK(  TlNf;  OF 


I 


On  a  proruliicnt  ominence  at  Lievcly  stands  ii 
wooden  biiildina;,  called  a  look-out  Iionse,  the  standini^ 
place  of  such  persons  as  are  on  the  watch  for  whales. 
The  house  of  the  governor,  which  is  also  built  of 
wood,  is  in  a  sheltered  situation.  '^Ihere  is  also  a  large 
"building  reserved  as  a  storc-iiouse  for  the  lishing  iin- 


'i 


( 

r, 


pointing  northwiinl  :  larus  maximus  scon  :  nt  Ion  p.  in.  a  licauli- 
fnl  parhelion  iipiiearoci  above  Disko.  This  plienomonon,  wlncli 
is  commoni)'  named  a  mock  sun,  exliibitod  two  distinct  portions  ol" 
an  iridescent  circle  surroundinj;  that  Inmiiiary,  iU'd  parallel  to 
the  line  of  the  horizon  :  no  portion  of  siicli  lis^iit  as  the  sun  .nf- 
fords,  but  the  Ix-illiant  colours  of  the  rainbow,  were  rellected  from 
the  sun's  li^ht  upon  a  deep  brown  bed  of  cirrostratus,  through 
which  the  sun  light  broke,  afiectinff  those  colours  in  its  passai^e 
through  the  cloud  :  it  is  quite  erroneous  to  apply  the  name  of 
mock  sun  to  such  a  phenomenon  ;  it  might  be  equally  assigned  to 
the  rainbow.  A  seal  was  siiot,  but  the  body  sunk  bcibre  a  boat 
could  be  lowered  down  to  seize  it. 

May  24  :  ther.  26°,  42  =  ,  .36=  :  wind  S.  W.,  fresh  breeze  : 
ship  moving  among  packed  ice  oil'  Fortune  Bay  :  light  snow  some- 
times falling  :  a  dense  ledge  of  ciriostratus  in  N.  W.  :  hirus  mari- 
nus,  tridactylus  and  eburneus,  in  considerable  numbers  around  : 
L.  maximus,  as  usual,  a  solitary  individual  :  procellaria  glacialis 
in  great  number  ;  ursus  maritimus  ;  one  killed  to-day. 

May  25:  ther.  37°,  42°,  35°:  wind  N.  E.,  light  breeze: 
atmosphere  clear  and  dry  :  Disko  unclouded  :  cirrus  and  cirro- 
cumulus  at  a  very  great  elevation  :  a  fog  bank,  which  is  a  dense 
and  extensive  accumulation  of  cirrostratus,  appeared  to  the  north- 
ward :  this  is  said  to  be  stationary  for  several  days,  and  when 
moving,  proceeds  like  the  thunder-cloud  against  the  wind  :  wea- 
ther fine  :  this  day  a  swell  of  the  sea  was  observed  by  the  whalers, 
and  hailed  with  joy,  because  it  helps  to  heave  the  surface  so 
irregularly  as  to  cause  the  field  ice  to  break  up  :  it  is  produced 
by  a  gale  blowing  in  some  remote  quarter  some  days  before  :  the 
direction  of  the  swell  could  not  as  yet  be  ascertained,  a«  it  wa« 


I 


I 


A    NORTH-WF.sT    I'VsSVCI'.. 


Ill 


plrmont.s,  and  for  tlin  otiirr  piirposr-^  of  ihc  <'oloiiy. 
Tlio  inatciials  (or  tlicso  bulldinj^s  arc  roiivcycd  iVoiii 
Kiiropr,  l)iit  not  always  in  suniciont  supply  for  tho 
uants  of  llu'  people,  who  have  frefpientiy  a  very  pio- 
vitlential  relief  in  the  drifted  pines  and  other  timhers 
that  arc   occasionally   driven    on    their  shores  ;    but 


1 


scarroly  perrojitililc  :  tlip  fo;:  l)at)k  (lU)i(M"Hf'(l  williiti  a  fow  lioiirs  : 
stoma  liirundo  :  Lk'voly  licaiiiiu;  S.  K.  liy  S.,  (Ii«itant  six  or  seven 
Icas^ties.  -i()iimliii;i;>'  were  taken,  twelve,  tuenty,  ami  lorty  fathoms, 
though  tlu'  coininoii  sailing  chart  s:  ites  tlie  depth  it  tliis  jilare  to 
he  liiO  fathoms  :  tliere  ts  a  (lansi;eruus  diflerencr  hetween. 

May  26  :  ther.  29%  32',  .'30=  :  wind  W  S.  W.,  stron<,' hrec/e  : 
the  still  and  tranqnil  state  of  the  last  fortnir'hf.  is  mnch  chif^jjed 
since  the  appearanre  of  the  s.vell  notireil  last  eveni!.-;;  :  the  ice 
has  undergone  mnrh  dissohition,  and  extensive  scit  i.  \';  now  visi- 
ble amony;st  the  parks  :  the  swell  came  from  the  southward,  nd 
was  more  determined  towards  niidniy;ht,  wl  :;m  ihe  atmosphere  '.te- 
rame  loaded  with  snow-cloud,  which  was  sUv^ccedcd  b^'  cirrostratus 
fl\ins;  alonsjwith  mudi  velocity  :  in  the  hiirher  regions  cirrus  and 
cirrocumulus  unintlnenced  Ity  the  wind,  agitating  the  mass  below. 
The  rock  of  Disko,  in  the  distance,  appeared  as  if  standing  on  a  mir- 
ror, though  the  ice  was  visible  close  in  with  the  shore,  and  extend- 
ed outwards  in  a  close  pack  for  leagues  :  the  snow  channels  down 
the  rock  seemed  to  he  perpendicular  to  the  plane  of  the  imaginary 
mirror  :  larus  niaximus,  canus,  and  marinus  on  wing  :  P.  glacialis  ; 
also  a  raven. 

May  27  :  ther.  :V2' ,  3\' ,  .IP.'  -.  wind,  light  airs,  variable  :  co- 
moid  cirrus,  and  streaks  of  ci 'r'i:>:ratus  in  the  horizon  pointing  to 
N.  VV.  and  S.  E.  :  ship  cleared  the  ice  and  moved  into  the  vicinity 
of  the  Whale,  Dog  and  Western  Isles  :  colymb\is  troilc. 

May  28  :  ther.  12=  tiiroughout :  wind  S.  E.,  fresh  breeze  : 
cirrus  varying  its  f  r»;is  incessantly,  its  fuie  points  directed  to  S. 
W.  :  afternoon  still  and  calm  :  surt'ace  of  the  sea  of  glassy  smooth- 
ness, dimpled  only  by  the  plunge  of  the  sterna  hirundo,  which 
plied  its  graceful  wing  all  around  :    colvmbus  troilc   sometimes 


N 


M2 


ON  THE  EFFECTING  OF 


whence  this  wood  comes,  a  thorough  investigation  of 
tlie  Greenland  currents  only  can  determine. 

The  ice  blink,  seen  by  us. on  the  llith,  is  a  dull  yel- 
lowish light  just  above  the  horizon;  and,  more  eleva- 
ted, a  haze  of  a  gray  bjit  piercing  light,  exceedingly 
distressing  to  the  sight.     Objects,  such  ;is  ships,  leave 


i- 


seen,  also  a  numerous  train  oi'anas  mollissima  ;  tUree  very  largf- 
sized  halaena  physalus,  passed  U'itli  their  usual  speed,  i'ollowed  by 
a  busy  herd  of  delphinus  leucas  :  the  bhist  of  the  tinner  could  In; 
distinctly  heard  five  or  six  seconds  after  its  visible  elevation  :  tliis 
evening  nine  natives  put  oil'  iVoni  the  Western  Islands,  and  came 
alongside  the  ship  to  fralTick  :  after  some  hours'  stay,  durinc 
which  time  a  young  man  showed  his  skill  in  striking  a  loom,  they 
departed  :  they  were  very  different  from  each  other  in  features, 
but  were  all  evidently  of  the  aboriginal  race  :  a  seal  happening  to 
appear  near  one,  he  instantly  pursued  the  animal,  and  the  others 
sat  watching  his  success,  and,  upon  his  striking  his  object,  which 
he  did  with  great  address,  the  rest  paddled  hastily  to  his  assistance, 
but  the  seal  escaped. 

May  29  :  ther.  30%  IG',  31=  ;  wind  E..  fresh  breeze  :  at- 
mosphere clear  and  cloudless  :  Disko  dipping  iu  the  liorizon  : 
some  whales  have  been  seen  in  S.  W.  of  Fish  liay  :  seawatcr 
deep  brown,  with  a  greenish  tinge  :  wherever  the  water  ap- 
j)ears  of  this  colour,  it  is  considered  the  whale's  feeding-place  :  ;t 
bi'illiant  parhelion  seen  at  a  little  before  midnight. 

May  30  :  ther.  30  =  ,  '1C  =  ,  32=  :  wind  F..,  light  breeze  :  a 
swell  from  S.  W.  :  cirrus  and  cirrocumulus,  the  lormer  in  beauti 
ful  variety  :  the  ice  blink  remarkably  oppressive  this  day,  being 
a  dull,  milky,  but  powerful  light  :  a  Idubber  whale  killed  this  dav 
measured  upwards  of  fifty  feet :  thousands  of  mallemucks  crowded 
round  the  ship  to  partake  of  the  spoil  :  the  whale-bone  measured 
ten  feet  and  one  inch. 

May  31  :  ther.  30'',  33=,  30=  :  wind  N.  E.,  strong  breeze: 
(his  day  gave  me  a  full  opportunity  of  observing  a  whale  moving  at 
will  ;  ascending  from  the  bottom,  this  enormous  animal  arose  just 


'M 


A  NORTIMVEST  PASSAGE. 


143 


an  impression  on  the  eye,  in  the  medium  of  this  ice 
l)hnk,  so  that  whichever  way  the  spectator  turns,  he 
beholds  the  same  objects  still  represented  to  his  vision. 
Bergs  similar  to  islands,  having  bold  and  precipitous 
fronts,  sometimes  crowned  with  eminences  like  rocks 
or  castles,  and  the  summit  of  this  seeming  land  sloping 


Wi 


under  the  stern  of  the  sliip,  and  moved  forwards  in  a  majestic  style, 
having  taken  in  fresh  air,  and  descended  forwards  slowly  again  :  its 
motions  were  efl'ected  with  ninch  ease,  though  the  speed  is  so 
great,  being  between  eight  and  nine,  sometimes  ten  miles  an  hour : 
the  whales  are  generally  seen  at  this  date  in  pairs,  or  three  toge- 
ther, two  probably  rival  suitors  for  the  female's  regard. 

Weather  beginning  to  grow  thick  :  the  circle  of  view,  however, 
is  large  :  the  ice  much  dispersed,  and  in  active  dissolution  :  co- 
1}  mbus  glocitans  in  considerable  number  :  colymbus  troile,  few  : 
larus  canus  and  tridactylus  :  proccllaria  glacialis  less  numerous 
than  usual. 

June  1  :  ther.  32 »,  18',  30'  :  wind  N.  E.,  light  breeze  :  the 
misty  cirrostratus  continued  since  last,  congealing  into  rime  as  it 
drifted  across  the  ship  :  a  male  whale  fifty-eight  feet  long  was  killed 
this  day  :  procellaria  glacialis  again  in  immense  number :  larus 
muximus,  eburneus,  tridactylus  and  marinus. 

June  2:  ther.  32',  34°,  33'  :  wind  E.,  strong  breeze:  cir- 
rostratus  in  mist :  a  male  whale  killed  this  morning  measured  se- 
venty feet,  the  longest  lamina  eleven  feet  three  inches  :  whilst  the 
men  were  engaged  llinching  this  huge  body,  a  blind  shark  cami', 
and  in  its  over  anxious  desire  to  share  of  the  spoil,  gave  one  of  the 
l)oys  an  opportunity  of  wounding  him  several  times  :  groups  of  the 
oniscus  ceti,  whale  louse,  attached  to  the  epidermis  of  this  whnlo. 
particularly  about  the  fins  and  anus. 

June  3  :  ther.  32',  37°,  30*  :  wind  nearly  calm. 

June  4  :  ther.  .32°  throughout:  wind  N.  E,,  light  air. 

June  5  .  ther.  27°,  38°,  32°  :  wind  E.,  light  breeze. 

June  6 :  ther.  38°,  5G°,  38'  :  wind  E.  N.  E.,  light  oil 

Juno  7  :  ther.  30°.  30°,  33'  :  wind  nearly  calm. 


f 


fl 


144 


ON  THE  EFFECTING  OF 


gradually  the  opposite  way,  lie  around  embedded  in 
the  field  ice  ;  but  being  so  much  deeper,  they  are 
more  influenced  by  the  current,  which,  pressing  for- 
ward against  this  liuge  mass,  forces  it  to  rive  the  sur- 
rounding field,  and  produce  the  flaw  ice,  which  is  then 
carried  off*  by  the  current,  and  pushed  on  by  the  ma- 


June  8  :  tlier.  31°,  38°,  34"  :  wind  N.  E.,  strong  breeze. 

The  weather  during  the  above  days  had  scarcely  any  variety, 
and  couhl  aflord  httle  information  or  ainu.senient  to  the  reader  ;  the 
atmosphere  being  generally  loaded  with  heavy  vapour,  and  some- 
times acicular  snow  :  sea  almost  clear  of  ice  :  ship  to  the  westward 
of  Disko  about  thirty  miles  distant. 

June  9  :  ther.  42',  53'',  43'  :  wind  S.  E.,  fresh  breeze  :  atmos- 
phere clear  and  dry  ;  Whale  Islands  to  the  S.  E.  in  sight :  light 
feathery  cirrus,  with  faintly  marked  cirrocumulus,  and  a  dash  of 
cirrostratus  brown  mist,  flittering  far  beneath  :  a  hugely  headed 
whale  sixty  feet  long  was  harpooned  amongst  some  bay  ice,  that  is, 
ice  recently  formed  in  some  bay  and  carried  out  to  sea  :  such  ice 
is  the  thinnest  description  of  congelation  which  is  covered  with 
8no\v,  and  readily  dissolves  ;  the  snow  nearly  dissolved  from  the 
face  of  Disko,  which  is  now  mostly  of  a  dark  brown  appearance  : 
at  noon  the  air  was  exceedingly  sultry,  wind  same  time  S.  W.  :  a 
few  threads  of  cirrus  seen  in  the  afternoon,  with  others  of  comoid 
character  arising  out  of  them,  and  passing  to  some  distance  at  right 
angles  :  mallemucks  numerous  ;  burgomasters,  a  pair  ;  terns  and 
kittiwakes  around. 

Between  eight  and  twelve  o'clock  p.  m.  having  in  this  interval 
kept  constantly  l«toking  at  the  patches  of  ice,  among  which  the 
boats  were  busied  in  pursuit  of  numerous  whales,  the  colour  of  the 
ice,  as  it  appeared  to  my  sight,  surprised  me  very  much,  assuming 
at  a  distance  a  bright  pink,  and  in  situations  nearer  to  the  eye  a  pale 
purple.  There  was  no  cloud  over  head,  nor  any  visible,  except  a 
yellowish  brown  stratus  occupying  the  whole  horizon.  This 
phenomenon  I  do  not  recollect  to  see  noticed  by  any  person  here- 
tofore. 


4- 


A   NORTH-WEST  PASSAGE. 


]45 


jestic  berg.  The  flaw  ice,  sometimes  leagues  in  ex- 
tent, invariably  level,  and  covered  willi  snow  about 
ten  inches  deep,  is  also  urged  in  its  change  of  place 
by  the  pressure  of  the  wind,  which,  though  probably 
not  blowing  at  one  extremity  of  the  flaw,  produces  its 
preponderating  efl'ects  at  the  other.     Masters  of  ships 


I 


-  > 


June  10:  ther.  31°,  4G  =  ,  28=  :  wind  N.  E.,  liirht  breeze  :  to 
the  tino  weather  of  the  last,  a  ilark,  chill  atmosphere  has  succeeded, 
loaded  with  icy  vapour;  but  this  state  of  atmosphere  is  evidently 
contined  to  a  low  degree,  as  the  zenith  remains  clear  :  at  noun 
more  clear  around,  and  cirrus,  with  cirrocumuhis  of  brilliant 
vhite,  occupied  the  hi<rher  region  :  the  mist  afterwards  returned, 
general  and  dense,  and  is  likely  to  continue,  the  wind  growing  to  a 
strona;  brecjiie,  with  a  iieavv  sea. 

This  mist,  or  fog,  was  produced  by  the  a;reat  heat  of  the  pre- 
ceding day,  when  the  ice  continued  to  dissolve  freely  ;  and  the 
vapour  thence  arising,  became  material  for  Uie  fog  which  was  con- 
densed by  the  wind  at  N.  E.  :  this  circumstance  deserves  attention, 
and  shows  the  importance  to  the  mariner  of  his  possessing  himself 
of  such  indications  as  may  enable  him  to  anticipate  such  changes. 
Tlie  loss  of  many  a  ship  every  year  may  be  ascribed  principally  to 
want  of  attention,  and  proper  information  on  this  head. 

Procellaria  glacialis  numerous  :  colymbus  troile  in  long  trains  : 
sterna  hirundo  and  larus  eburneus  also  numerous. 

June  11  :  ther.  27°,  31",  30°  :  wind  N.  E.,  strong  breeze  : 
this  day  continues  very  cold,  the  fog  still  remaining,  at  intervals 
clearing  partially',  and  returiiing  thick  again,  depositing  rounded 
tapering  cryi-lals,  of  a  large  size,  upon  the  ropes  :  tiiese  crystals 
arc  formed  liy  the  successive  deposition  of  minute  icy  particles 
from  the  fog  :  before  noon  the  cloud  assumed  a  greater  elevation, 
so  as  to  leave  the  horizon  clear  :  the  atmosphere  cold  and  dark  : 
I',  ghicialij  and  L.  eburueus. 

Juno  12  :  ther.  32%  47%  .3.'^  :  wind  E.  N  E..  frcsli  breeze  : 
fog  still  continuing,  strongly  illuminated  by  the  sun-light :  about  4 
p.  m.  there  was  some  appearance  of  clcarin-  u|),  but  liie  log  again 

J  9 


^ 


1  \t 


■II ' 
li 


V    t 


,    i 


14b 


ON  THE  EFFECTING  OF 


are  cautious  of  remaining  in  such  a  situation  as  places 
them  in  the  course  in  which  the  flaw  is  observed  to 
move ;  but  this  caution  springs  from  experience  alone, 
as  the  water  about  the  flaw,  particularly  if  the  ship 
lie  on  the  sheltered  side,  erroneously  named  the  wind- 
ward, is  usually  very  tranquil.     Then,  unless  the  ut- 


rc'iimed  its  former  dense  character  :  procellariii  glacialis,  coljm- 
bus  modulans,  and  sterna  hirundo. 

June  13  :  ther.  30°,  52°,  40°  :  wind,  light  and  variable  :  the 
tog  having  cleared  away  to  the  S.  E.  all  the  sky  is  clear  :  ship  a 
short  distance  from  Fortune  Bay  :  no  ice  to  be  seen,  except  a 
few  bergs.  Just  over  Disko  appeared  a  milk-white  haze  form- 
ing rapidly  into  small  light  patches  of  cirrostratus  in  a  circular 
line,  out  of  which  white  radiations  stretched  through  the  at- 
mosphere, with  visible  motion,  the  centre  of  radiation  lying  iu 
the  E.  point,  per  compass.  This  radiation  continued  during  the 
day,  extending  over  the  whole  upper  sky,  in  fine  lengthened 
cirrus  hairs  of  the  brightest  whiteness.  These  latter  towards 
evening  gradually  assumed  a  greater  elevation,  exhibiting  a 
beautiful  display  of  the  varieties  of  that  delicate  cloud,  the 
trains  pointing  to  the  S.  W.  from  which  quarter  others  more  faint 
issued,  as  if  to  meet  the  former.  Latterly  a  dead  calm  prevailed, 
and  some  appearance  of  the  recurrence  of  the  fog  :  proceliaria 
glacialis  sitting  on  the  water  all  around,  and  immense  numbers 
•of  sterna  hirundo  on  the  wing  :  the  cry  of  the  latter  is  a  shrill 
scream. 

June  14  :  ther.  34=*,  46°,  32'  :  wind  S.  E.,  light  air  :  fog,  with 
light  minute  snow  drops  :  afternoon,  a  dead  calm  :  a  group  of 
seals  passed,  flaunting  along,  seemingly  in  high  fun  :  the  sailors 
give  such  assemblages  the  whimsical  appellation  of  "  seals'  wed- 
dings :"  proceliaria  glacialis,  larus  tridactylus  and  canus  ;  also 
colymbus  troile  in  vast  number :  a  pair  of  colynibus  grylle  :  the 
numerous  flock  of  sterna  hirundo  reappeared  with  their  usual 
rlamouv  :    their  cry  is  uttered  when  about  to  make  the  plunge, 


I 


A    NORTH-WEST    PASSAGE. 


in 


T» 


most  care  be  taken,  the  shifting  flaw  will  force  the 
ship  from  her  station,  sometimes  to  a  dangerous  ex- 
tent; wiien,  if  rocks  intervene,  and  arrest  her  in  the 
drifting,  destruction  is  inevitable,  as  the  superior 
weight  of  ice  will  certainly  upset  or  sink  her. 

Many  dangerous  reefs  and  sunken  rocks,    whicli 


which  i-i  often  to  a  considorablo  depth  below  the  surllice  of  tho. 
water,  ami  they  seldom  misS  their  object. 

June  15:  thor.  30°,  40^,  38°  :  wind  light  air  from  S.,  and  calm: 
cirrostratus  irregularly  scattered  at  an  elevation  of  about  half  a 
mile  :  about  7  p.  m.  a  breeze  sprung  up  from  N.  E.  increasing  as 
the  day  advanced  :  a  merry  emigration  of  seals,  more  tlian  twenty 
in  number,  was  observed,  and  seemed  to  enjoy  the  notice  taken  of 
their  glee  :  larus  maximus,  four  seen  this  day,  and  a  countless 
number  of  other  aquatic  birds  ;  among  these  a  single  pair  of  the 
eider  duck. 

June  16  :  ther.  30'',  34°,  30°  :  wind  N.  E.,  strong  breeze  :  no 
land  in  sight :  ice  blink  in  N.  VV.  :  cirrostratus  irregularly  dif- 
fused :  atmosphere  gloomy,  but  not  sensibly  cold,  even  at  noon  : 
a  herd  of  whales  was  seen,  moving  together  in  a  breast  line  :  a 
group  of  seals  formed  a  similar  line  in  their  advance,  whilst  nu- 
merous sportive  stragglers  filled  up  their  rear  :  procellaria  gla- 
cialis  numerous,  active,  and  unusiially  bold,  which  latter  character 
this  bird  always  assumes  around  the  ships,  when  whales  are  in  the 
vicinity  :  also  larus  maximus  :  the  breeze  and  dark  weather  con- 
tinued to  tlie  end. 

.lune  17:  ther.  30°,  40°,  40:  wind  E.  S.  E.,  fresh  breeze  :  in 
the  forenoon,  the  atmosphere  continued  dark,  cold  and  hazy,  with 
light  acicular  snow  :  the  ice  blink  of  the  preceding  day  covore.l 
an  immense  pack,  which  is  supposed,  at  this  date,  to  extend  to 
the  western  continent :  numerous  bergs,  of  enormous  size,  sate 
in  various  directions  amongst  this  ice  :  the  removal  of  this  ice 
from  the  shores  of  (iireenland,  is,  in  consequence  of  the  preva- 
lence of  the  easterly  winds,  aided  by  so  much  of  the  north  wind 
and  the  current. 


•<i 


:  «»»t-J«f«-*- 


,^»" 


mmmtm^mit^** 


ll 


148 


ON    THE    EFFECT TNc;    OK 


have  not  been  laid  down  on  the  cliarts  ah'eady  pub- 
hshcd,  are  to  be  met  with  in  those  seas;  but  they 
have  not  been  ascertained  except  within  very  few 
years  back,  at  times  wlien  the  boldness  of  the  whale 
hunters,  arising  from  tiie  confidence  of  experience  in 


t 
i 


i 


fe- 


Afternoon  the  atmosphere  siuldenly  clearca  up,  and  became 
dry  and  fine  ;  a  few  trains  of  brown  patches  of  cirrostratus 
alone  remaining,  and  pointing  in  their  bases  to  the  N.  K.  :  the 
north-west  side  of  disko  in  sight,  high  blulV  Table  Land :  co- 
lymbus  modulans  in  numerous  tlocks,  and  a  few  of  procellarin 
glacialis. 

.lune  18  :  ther.  32'',  3^)°,  32°  :  wind  N.  E.,  strong  breeze  : 
this  wind,  though  unfavourable  to  proceeding  northward,  is 
useful  in  driving  the  ice  to  the  southward  and  westward, 
and  tends  to  open  a  communicalion  with  the  waters  further 
north. 

Here  is  an  evident  proof  of  the  importance  which  attaches  to 
the  observation  of  the  clouds.  In  the  remarks  of  the  preceding 
day,  it  may  be  seen  that  the  patches  of  cirrostratus,  in  their  bases, 
pointed  to  the  quarter  whence  the  succeeding  wind  came.  This 
cloud  may  be  deemed  to  announce  the  earliest  wind,  whilst  the 
cirrus  points  to  one  remotely  distant,  and  which  in  its  coming  is 
liable  to  interruption.  This  distinction  may  be  of  use  if  judiciously 
applied. 

This  period  of  the  season  is  remarkable  for  the  progress  of 
the  whale  northward  :  heavy  packs  of  ice,  and  bergs  around  : 
north-west  of  Disko  still  in  sight,  five  or  six  leagues  distant : 
upper  region  of  atmosphere  overcast  with  drifting  cirrostratus, 
which  clearing  at  intervals  exhibited  cirrocumulus,  and  subse- 
quently cirrus  :  this  latter  cloud,  at  a  later  hour,  moved  off  iu 
the  direction  of  the  wind  above  noted  ;  hence  it  is  likely  to  con- 
tinue, as  it  occupies  so  large  a  portion  of  the  atmosphere  :  this 
evening  afforded  a  clear  view  of  the  lofty  peaks  on  the  VVaygat 
side  of  Disko,  which  towered  above  the  mountain,  as  it  bends  its 
rocky  prominences  to  the  north-west  :  probably  the  highe^jl  moun- 


\ 


V 


!     f 


i 


'*wi*»|ie!«« 


A    NORTH-WEST    PASSAOl.. 


II'J 


this  dangerous    iiaviffatiou,    1ms  carried  them  every 
succeeding:  season  into  new  courses. 

The  fleet  of  whalers,  above  twenty  in  number,  all 
tacking  througli  the  openings  of  the  ice,  making  for 
the  protection  of  the  point  of  Lievely,  distant  about 
four  or  five  miles  to  the  S.  E.,  and  their  various  posi- 


tain  inGrcpiiland  is  one  of  llioso  :  it  rises  greatly  above  the  rr.-t, 
and  is  vi!^il)le  across  the  wliolo  north-west  end  of  Disko  :  l»y  calou- 
Jation  it  mnst  be  ono  lialf  as  high  again  as  the  land  at  Fortune  Bay. 
Jnno  19  :  thcr.  32°,  3(5°,  34*^  :  wind  X.  E  ,  stron<,'  l)rce/e  :  il 
IS  remarked,  that  tlie  jire vailing  winds  along  the  coast  are  N.  or 
S.  :  for  this  reason  the  study  of  thi>  minutest  indiration  of  anv 
change  of  wind  in  those  seas  is  imperative,  as  the  progress  of  tlie 
most  experienced  navigator  must  be  otherwise  baffled  [xm  peliiallv, 
and  tlie  purposes  of  his  voyage  embarrassed  witli  diliiculty,  doubt 
and  danger. 

At  an  early  liour  thi-  morning  the  zenith  was  enriched  by  an 
elegant  display  of  cirrus,  in  comoid,  streakoil,  waved  and  minutely 
dotted  form,  all  which  underwent  a  complete  and  hasty  dissolu- 
tion, by  a  wind  from  the  N.  leaving  a  thin  whoy-coloured  ini-^t  at  a 
very  great  elevation  :  procellaria  glacialis,  colymbus  troile  and 
glocitans  :  the  water  deep  brown,  with  greenish  hue,  retlecting 
pur'i'lc  when  turned  up  in  wave  ;  this  latter  colour  may  proceed 
from  the  fragments  of  the  frail  medusa  pileus,  which  is  hereabouts 
•a  \  a>(  number. 

June  JO:  ther.  32°,  37%  32°  :  wind  N.  E.,  fresh  breeT-.e  : 
"irrostratiis  at  a  great  elevation  overclouding  the  welkin  :  at  noon 
calm  and  clear  :  comoid  cirrus,  and  cirrocumulus,  the  former  indi- 
cating a  wind  from  S.  VV.  :  the  calm  was  succeeded  soon  by  a  dense 
dry  to;:;  from  t!\e  westward  with  light  variable  winds  from  that  quar- 
ter :  a  sli  adv  fiesh  breeze  from  S.  W.  sprung  up  afterwanls,  when 
the  fog  cleared  away,  and  the  ship  was  ascertained  to  be  in  the 
latitude  of  the  i\I,dU:gat,  which  is  a  short  rocky  sound  between 
Disko  and  IJ;u'c  1-1, uid  •  colynibus  troile  and  lams  maximus  :  thi^ 
latter  solitary. 


r. 


k 


y  'J    ^1 


i 

■  < 


i 


ut^tDS^a' 


^ 


in    ( 

111 
I 


i:a) 


ON  THE  KKFECTINU  OF 


iioiis,  llu!  scroiiilj  of  the  weather,  and  the  inagnifi- 
cent  hrow  of  Disko  lookinti;  flown  on  an  apparently 
Lilliputian  scene,  was  certainly  a  novel  exhibition  to 
a  stran2;rr:  even  the  hardy  sailors  viewed  it  with  de- 
lia;ht.  Thouirh  the  thermonioter  indicated  so  low  a 
tcniporature,  yet  the  air  felt  agreeably  warm,  proba- 


.hmc  21  :  ther.  .'32%  1G  =  ,  3G'  :  wind  S.  W,,  light  breeze  : 
morning  fine  willi  cirrostnitus  :  Black  Hook  in  sight  :  the  wind 
being  favourable,  much  of  this  pare  of  Greenland  came  within 
view  :  at  noon  a  large  island  was  ascertained  to  be,  by  observa- 
tion, in  latitude  71"  46'  north  ;  but  as  few  parts  in  these  latitude.", 
except  remarkable  headlands,  are  named,  this  island  has  not  yet 
received  any  distinct  name  from  Europeans.  The  rock  is  the 
same  as  that  noticed  at  Disko,  namely  floetz  trap,  with  a  distinct 
stratum  of  fcltspar,  about  high  water  mark  :  numerous  flocks  of 
rociies,  looms,  dovekies,  mallemucks  and  kittiwakes  ;  also  a  soli- 
tary burgomaster. 

June  22:  ther.  32*,  41°,  30°  :  wind  calm  or  variable  and 
light :  the  transient  visitation  of  the  wind,  coming  at  uncertain  in- 
tervals, and  from  almost  every  point  of  the  compass,  produces  a 
sliglit  ruffling  of  the  sea,  which  is  throughout  this  day  of  a  glassy 
smoothness  :  the  sailors  call  these  ruffled  patches,  cat-skins  : 
these  patches  are  only  of  short  duration,  and  the  most  extensive 
not  half  a  mile  over  :  they  are  invariably  in  the  corresponding 
position  of  the  superincumbent  cloud,  which  is  cirrostratus,  low 
and  of  a  deep  brown,  except  where  the  sun-light  tinges  it  of  a 
yellow  hue  :  in  the  places  ^vhere  this  cloud  approaches  the  hori- 
zon, a  distinct  communication  may  be  observed  between  the  cir- 
rostratus bed  and  the  wave  beneath,  somewhat  similar  to  rain  de- 
scending from  a  nimbus  :  this  communication  was  always  followed 
by  the  cat  skin.  Whenever  the  ship  came  within  such  communi- 
cation, I  observed  a  light  mist  to  fall  in  acicular  snow,  exceedingly 
minute  and  evanescent. 

.Tune  23  :  ther.  34°,  44°,  28°  :  wind  E.  N.  E.,  light  breeze  : 
cirrocumulus  of  da/zling  whiteness  seen  through  the  purplish 


■ 


«. 


,1^1 


A    NORTH-WEST    PASSAftK. 


i:>\ 


bly  from  the  effects  of  tlie  sun  on  the  rocks  of  Disko. 
It  being  expedient  to  make  the  ship  fast  to  a  hcrg,  an 
anchor  was  buried  in  a  large  one  near ;  but,  havin';- 
started  from  its  fastening,  sunk  to  the  Iwttom ;  and 
being  hauled  up,  had  a  large  cluster  of  the  ascidia 
pedunculata,  with  innumerable  small  animals  altacli- 


I 


■t 


brown  masses  of  cirrostratus  floHtin:»  beneath  :  water,  oreanlr 
ozure  :  land  nearly  out  ol"  sight :  mucli  loose  ico  to  the  westward  : 
whales  seen  in  groups  of  five  and  six,  mukintf  hii.sty  progress 
northward  :  some  few  seals  came  in  view  :  the  blue  colour  of  the 
sea  is  supposed,  in  the  Stiaits,  to  bo  reflected  from  a  rocky  bot- 
tom, and  demands  the  utmost  vigilance  of  the  mariner  :  prorcll-t- 
ria  glacialis  in  small  number  on  wing  ;  so  also  Inriis  maxinius  : 
colymbus  glocitans,  colymbus  troilc,  larus  tridaclylus  and  chiir- 
neus  ;  the  latter  very  clamorous. 

June  24  :  ther.  30°,  37%  34=  :  wind  N.  E.  by  N.,  strong 
breeze  :  this  day  is  bright,  but  hazy  :  light  acicular  snow  con- 
stantly falling  :  the  ice  seen  occasionally  as  the  ship  tacks  in  the 
breeze  :   procellaria  glacialis,  and  colymbus  grylle. 

June  25:  ther.  24  =  ,  30%  28°  :  wind  N.  E.  by  N.,  light 
breeze  :  atmosphere  as  yesterday,  hazy,  and  intensely  bright 
without  snow  ;  the  change  of  temperature  painfully  felt  :  at  times 
zenith  clear. 

June  2G  :  ther.  32°  invariably  :  wind  S.  W.,  strong  breeze  : 
at  midnight,  between  this  day  and  last,  the  sun  came  to  too  m.ri- 
dian  at  a  variation  of  somewhat  more  than  6^  I'oints  eastnud  of 
the  compass  :  latitude  73'^  15'  N.,  near  lierryV  hland  :  an  ap- 
pearance of  cirrostratus  cloud  O'currod,  wJiich  is  worthy  of  no- 
tice from  its  consequences — aggregated  small  clouds  of  irregular 
shapes,  purplish  brown,  smooth,  and  edged  ".vith  a  soft  yellowish 
illumination  :  distinct  from  each  other,  they  appeared  heavy  and 
motionless  :  such  clouds,  I  have  since  freqjently  noticed,  usually 
appear  before  a  gale  :  an  immense  number  of  wlialcs  made  aj)- 
pearance  amongst  the  surrounding  packs  of  ice,  and  tlieir  blowing 
among  the  ouoaerous  bergs  would  have  niisod  a  notion  that  in  thi> 


V  »1 


l\ 


(^ 


i 


I 


1  ."i2 


ON  THE  I-,FFE(  1  ING  Ot 


,1.  ... 


uniiiial 


I'd,  and  involved  in  its  base.     Tlii.s  cluster  oC 

had  iiiucli  the  a|)j)earance,  at  lirst  sight,  of  heaiitifid 

^c'a^lct  Iruit  haii«^Mrii!;  hy  ihoir  stalks. 

On  the  IHlli  an  old  Dane,  drawn  hv  twelve  docs, 
and  attended  by  a  native  boy,  ranie  to  truck  with  ihe. 
hlii|)s.     This  visit  was  made    the  [(receding  midnight, 


I- 


uil«l('iiu'ss  of  most  wintry  iispoct,  flic  smoko  of  many  a  hearth 
WW*  SLMit  lip  I  om  sonic  very  populous  hamlet.  Thi'  wind  in- 
creas-ed  with  heavy  showers  of  snow  and  blect,  and  became  a 
stronj;  gde  as  the  .sliip  came  in  siujlit  of  the  Trow  Islands  :  the 
^^we1I  of  the  sea  occasioned  by  tlic  wind,  grew  to  an  unusual 
licight  :  Ihe  ship  continued  stceriiii;  under  reefed  topsails  for 
Jlickiion's  !>iiy,  as  well  for  shelter,  as  for  the  purposes  of  the 
V())d'rc  :  llie  v.ater  a  very  deep  brown  colour  ;  and,  as  it  breaks 
upon  the  berfj;s,  exhibits  a  reddish  brown  hue.  'J'lie  Frow  Islands 
have  been  so  named  from  the  voyage  of  Davis,  who  is  said  to  have 
first  discovred  those  Lmds,  and  met  with  many  Greenland  women 
there  in  boats  ;  frow  and  woman  beinj;  the  Enijlish  and  Dutch 
terms  whi.li  respectively  desi^mate  the  sex.  The  greater  num- 
ber of  tho.-^e  islands  are  low  iind  flat  ;  but  many  much  lare;er  are 
ot'ten  invested  with  clouds  :  (cirrostratus  ;)  at  which  time,  from 
their  extreme  irregul.irity,  scenes  worthy  of  the  strains  of  Ossian 
may  be  witnessed.  The  interior  of  this  part  is  totally  unknown, 
as  the  njii;  ters  of  whale  ships,  either  from  their  owners'  orders, 
tir  tlieir  own  experience  of  danger,  will  never  approach  near  to 
any  ilat  haul,  unless  pieviously  well  known  ;  the  transilion  from 
a  low  i-'l.tnd  to  a  sunk'-n  rock  beinii  sudden.  The  Frow  Islands 
arc  a  favourite  summer  retreat  of  the  Uskees  ;  and  there  they 
construct  their  hunting  tents  during  .lune,  July  and  August  ;  al- 
ways retiring  to  some  sheltered  situation  on  the  higher  lands,  to 
remain  for  the  winter. 

Jui;e  27  :  ther.  32= .  .31  %  30°  :  wind  W.  S.  W.,  fresli  bree/e  : 
sailed  through  a  safe  passage,  betvveen  the  outward  islands,  into 
an  extensive  bay,  at  least  (ifleen  miles  over,  north  of  the  Frow 
Islands  :  latitude  ob.served,   73    4'  N.  :  the  southern  extremity 


r- . 


■nn 


i 


I 


A   NORTH-WKST  PASSAfJK. 


ir»;j 


it'  such  expression  be  correct  al  this  place  and  date, 
where  there  is  no  ni^ht  whatever.  The  Dane  was 
dressed  in  the  Uskee  costume,  and  was  very  roininu- 
nicative.  Others  of  tlie  natives  came  in  the  course  of 
the  day  fortiie  ptn-poses  olharter.  Some  ofthesf  were 
boys;  and    one,  of  Norweirian   descent,  had    all    the 


of  this  bay  I  supiiose  to  hv  tlie  Hope  Saundorsoii  oirormor  voy- 
aajtrs  ;  it  is  dislinguisliable  l»y  .  n'm.irkabli>  rock  above  a  low 
inland,  which  rock  has  a  diamond  sununit  :  as  this  rock  came  into 
view  in  tlie  forenoon,  just  as  tlie  snow  storm  liad  bo<;un  to  clear, 
it  formed  the  centre  of  a  hmdscape  siny;ularly  ;^rand.  To  tho 
right,  southward,  lay  the  Frow  Islands  in  endless  variety  of  shape 
and  distance,  with  volumes  of  fog  rolling  slowly  over  their  crai;gv 
summits  ;  Saunderson's  Hope  rising  in  tlio  middle,  sometimes 
belted  with  mist,  soon  after  capped  with  the  same  transient  orna- 
ment ;  and  to  the  left,  sweeping  eastward  ind  northward,  the  bay 
to  which  I  have,  in  compliment  to  the  owner  of  the  Thomas,  as- 
signed the  name  of  MarsliaTs  Bay. 

Twenty-one  ships  diversified  the  incc  of  this  ample  and  secure 
refuge.  Their  figures  scattered  in  every  direction,  som*'  laid  to, 
others  moving  about,  in  a  space  of  fifteen  miles  every  wa;  ,  of  safe, 
deep  water  :  many,  though  near,  shut  from  the  view  at  times  by 
bergs  of  miles  in  extent,  whilst  all  wastrancpiil  and  free  of  danger, 
were,  with  the  land  view,  circumstances  to  render  the  scene  of 
deep  interest. 

June  28  :  ther.  34',  11',  .'31'  :  wind  S.  by  K.,  light  breeze  : 
this  morning  clear  and  l)right  :  light  Itakes  of  cirrostratus  in  the 
southern  region,  in  strong  contrast  with  the  horizon,  which  was  of 
stormy  blue  :  this  indication  would  portend  a  storm  :  here  now 
every  breeze  is  huslied,  as  if"  nature"  were  endeavouring  to  get 
rid  of  her  icy  load  :  a  lazy  irregular  train  of  cirrostratus,  to  the 
northward,  creeps  along  the  summits  of  the  land  at  a  very  low  de- 
gree, or  meeting  the  obstruction  of  some  greater  eminence,  clam- 
bers up  the  rock,  then  tumbles  down  the  opposite  side  unwillingly. 

The  chain  pf  islands  forming  Marshars  Bay  is,  in  general  chn- 

20 


I. 


i 


i  r 


Ji 


if 


^ 


i.>j 


ON   TIIK  KKFKf'TING  OF 


erect  (ij^urc  and  fair  complexion  of  a  El  r'-j^ean.  One 
of  these,  said  to  be  the  son  ofiho  former  ..ov^rnor,  a 
handsome  interesting  lad,  also  hrought  articles  of  dress 
to  exchange  among  the  ships.  lie  evidently  had  a 
superior  manner  to  his  companions,  but  exhibited  an 
eagerness,    etjiiai  to  theirs,  to  benefit    by  the  visit   f»f 


I 


racter,  low  find  rounded  ;  and  no  |icr|HttidicuIar,  or  Hiiarp  front  is 
visible.     Bevond  the  bosom  of  the  bay  may  be  seen  more  elevated 
land,  with  peaked  summits  ;  but,  as  in  the  view  of  the  land  near 
Joris  Bay,  in  no  instance  docs  it  rise  to  the  table  level  of  Disko. 
This  would  lead  to  a  far  different  conclusion  from  that  drawn  by  a 
geologist  of  eminence.     If  peaked  mountains  be  always  granitic, 
that  of  Tenerifle  should  be  so  ;  the  southern  mountains  of  Green- 
land ought  to  be  of  the  same  material  ;  so  should  that  along  the 
coast  down  to  Joris  Bay,  and  Koll  Reef.     But  the  wildly  torn  ma- 
terials of  the  Greenland  coast  seem  to  defy  such  speculation. 
Greenland  has  its  peaked  mountains,  not  of  granitic  substance 
superiorly,  but  as  at  Disko,  where  the  land  is  high  and  level,  gene- 
rally trap,  floetz  trap,  or  feltspar,  with  all  the  intermediate  quartzy 
combinations,  and  such  changes  of  colour,  as  the  hitherto  unex- 
plained occurrence  of  metallic  presence  may  occasion.      Yet  sup- 
pose one  endeavouring  to  determine,  from  a  distance,  their  exist- 
ence, as  being  granitic,  from  a  view  of  their  conical  summits,  a 
desire  to  ascertain  the  universal  application  of  this  dogma  to  the 
northern  regions  should  induce  a  more  satisfactory  inquiry.     It  is 
not  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  where  tliere  is  table  land,  nor  at 
Teneriffe,  which  is  much  higher,  nor  in  the  Hebrides,  nor  Orkney 
Islands,  nor  in  Iceland  or  the  Shetland  Isles,  that  granite  is  to  be 
traced  by  peaked  eminence.     The  aggregation  of  that  rock  must 
depend  upon  other  principles  than  those  of  elevation  ;  and  which- 
ever theory  maintains  that  aggregation  best,  is  most  entitled  to  re- 
spect.    Invariably  near  the  highest  mark  of  tide  in  this  bay,  the 
feltspar  rock,  of  yellowish  red,  is  present  ;  and  above  it,  the  gray- 
brown  basalt. 

By  an  observation  taken  this  dav,  the  clearness  of  the  atmos- 


i 


ill 


A    NORTH-WEST    l'AS.^A(iF 


i5rt 


the  ships.  This  youth  was  also  drawn  by  dogs  on  a 
miserable  looking  slt'd«^c,  fortned  nidoly  of  broad  laths, 
covered  with  a  seal-skin  as  a  seat,  which  was  scarcely 
raised  above  the  sinfacc  of  the  snow.  None  but  the 
youth  last  mentioned  wore  any  tiling  as  covering  for 
the  head.     He   had  a  cap  neatly  formed  of  dog-skin, 


A 


phcre  afforHing  an  opportunity,  the  latitude  of  the  ship  was  found 
to  bo  73''  II'  N.,  rorrespoiuhu!^  nearly  with  the  northern  extre- 
mity of  Berry's  island,  which  lies  westward  of  the  bay  above- 
mentioned  :  the  latest  observation  of  the  tliermometer,  this  day, 
is  standard  of  atmospheric  heat  for  the  nine  hours  subsequent  to 
meridian  time  :  a  breeze  from  N.  l).  rather  freshens,  .ind  is  likely 
to  be  constant  :  laras  maximus  on  wing  :  a  pair  of  monodon  mono- 
ceros,  and  afterwards  a  large  herd  of  dc-lphinus  leucas,  accompa- 
nied by  their  young,  of  which  another  group  came  from  the  ice, 
now  descending  rapidly  from  the  northward  :  some  whales  seen  : 
ship  proceeding  to  the  northward,  in  company  with  thirty-four 
others.  At  a  distance  of  about  eight  leagues  from  land,  after  leav- 
ing the  bay  above-mentioned,  the  northern  extremity  of  the  bay 
showed  many  islands  scattered  in  the  horizon,  and  ending,  on  their 
southernmost  extremity,  in  a  bluff  head,  beneath  which  lay  a  low 
island  :  north  of  this,  the  land  arose  somewhat  even  and  low, 
with  an  elevated  subcorneal  mountain  in  the  middle  of  the  line 
observed. 

June  29:  ther.  32°,  34°,  33°  :  wind  N.,  light  airs  :  atmos- 
phere alternately  clear  and  clouded  with  cirrostratous  haze  : 
some  faint  instances  of  linear  cirrus  pointing  E.  and  W.  :  extreme- 
ly minute  acicular  snow  is  at  times  observable  :  about  eight  p.  ni. 
the  wind  shifted  towards  E.,  but  northing  a  little  :  previously  the 
atmosphere  was  suffused  with  cirrostratus  of  the  tlimsiest  kind  : 
every  breath  of  wind  lulled  to  a  dead  calm :  tlie  ice  streaming  off 
insensibly  with  the  current  :  the  whole  scene  was  characteristic 
of  tranquillity,  heightened  in  effect  by  the  numerous  fleet  lying 
about  in  every  point  with  all  sail"*  loose  and  inactive  :  to  this  siic- 


'i 


ii 


I 


156 


ON    THE    EFFECTING    OF 


but  was  ready  to  part  with  it  for  an  equivalent,  and 
Avould  be  content  to  return  home  barehead  hke 
his  companions.  There  ^'as  ".  hunch-back  among  the 
number  about  fourteen  years  of  aj^e.  There  was  no 
ditierence  whatever  in  their  dressos. 

Lievely  is  distant  from  Love  Bay,  or  Okl  Lievely, 


\ 


ccedecl  a  dense  misil,  which  hmileil  the  circle  of  view  to  about  a 
hundroil  yards. 

.lune.'JO  :  thcr.  31'.  .34',  33°  :  wind  N.  E.,  fresh  breeze  : 
fog  intensely  thick,  but  bri<;ht  :  Berry's  Island  near,  lat.  73°  10' 
N.  :  this  island  takes  its  name  from  the  master  of  a  whale  ship, 
who,  havinsi  been  unsuccessful  in  his  voyage  for  several  years, 
ventured  alone  into  this  latitude,  where  the  immense  number  of 
whales  s;ave  him  the  means  of  filling  his  ship  with  ease  :  his  good 
fortune  continued  for  several  years,  until  others  of  his  acquain- 
tance, having  discovered  the  secret,  Ibllowed  his  track,  when  the 
whales  shifted  from  the  unexpected  annoyance,  and  retired  fur- 
ther to  the  northward  ;  Berry  erected  a  rude  obelisk,  which  still 
remains  upon  this  island  :  there  are  many  dangerous  rocks  at  the 
southern  and  northern  extremities  of  Berry's  Island,  from  which 
it  would  be  adviscable  to  keep  a  ship  safely  distant  :  a  shoal  of  dcl- 
phinus  leucas,  wilh  their  young  in  company,  passed  the  ship  : 
procellaria  glarialis  numerous  :  larus  eburneus  and  tridactylus  ; 
also  colymbus  troile,  and  a  pair  of  sterna  hirundo  :  fog  continues 
to  the  end. 

.July  1  :  tlu-r.  24%  33°,  30'  :  wind  N.  E.,  light  breeze  :  the 
fog  continues  still  very  dense,  leaving  a  deposit  of  minute  icy  par- 
ticles, whicl),  accumiii  iling,  formed  aculeated  crystals,  resembling 
very  exactly  the  tlidiiH  on  the  ulox  (fur/c)  :  being  in  the  vicinity 
of  ice,  during  this  day,  the  atmospliere  continued  in  a  lov/  degree 
of  temperature  ;  yet,  to  the  sense,  the  cold  was  not  severe  ; 
procellaria  glacialis,  colymbus  troile,  and  a  shoal  ofdelphinus  leu- 
cas :  the  latter  is  not  an  object  considered  worthy  the  pursuit  of 
the  whalers,  as  being  infinitely  less  productive  than  the  Bal.  mys- 
(icetus  ;  besides  they  look  upon  such  employment  as  (piite  inade- 


i 


•.r 
-t 


•X 


1 


A    NORTH-WEST    PASSAGE. 


157 


eight  miles.  There  is  a  buryin2;-groun(l  above  the 
latter  in  a  very  romantic  valley,  whore  some  Dutch 
sailors,  who  happened  to  die  by  drowning,  have  been 
interred.  The  natives  use  much  caution  in  the  inter- 
ment of  their  dead,  by  wedging  together  large  stones 
over  the  grave,  which  is  commonly  in   the  cleft   of  a 


'i 


q'late  to  balance  the  exponne  :  for  this  reason  they  merely  amuse 
themselves  looking  on  at  the  sam!)ols  ol'that  beautiful  animal. 

July'-'  :  ther.  <JG',  33-,  28'  :  wind  N.  E.,  fresh  l)reeze  :  ship 
standing  in  for  the  Froiv  Islands  :  Berry's  Island  about  ten  miles' 
to  the  northward  :  a  thin  stratus  only  visible  in  the  horizon,  with 
a  wreck  of  the  fo^.  forming  a  deep  brown  fold  in  the  N.  K.  :  im- 
mense beigs  towering  above  the  summits  of  the  islands  :  some 
fine  appoari>'ice  ol  comoid  cirrus  at  noon  :  the  change  of  position 
of  the  ship  was  owing  to  the  drifting  of  the  ice,  which  now  began 
to  descend  very  rapidly,  and  it  would  l»e  extremely  dangerous  to 
remain  within  its  course  ;  for  which  reason  the  ships  in  general 
sought  llie  •^heller  of  the  islands,  which  might  ward  oil'  the  mis- 
chief :  this  being  field  ice,  with  a  few  bergs  interspersed,  was 
easily  set  to  the  westward  as  it  came  in  contact  with  Borrv's,  and 
the  outer  Frow  Isl mds  :  sterna  hinindo,  larus  maximus,  colymbus 
grylle,  and  procellaria  glacialis  :  the  wind  southing  a  little  of  cast 
this  evening,  some  rain  fell. 

.July  3:  ther.  32%  46%  36=  :  wind  S.  S.  W.,  steady 
fresh  breeze  :  cloud,  cirrostratus,  gathering  up  from  mist, 
and  creeping  along  the  horizon  at  a  small  elevation  in  dark 
brown,  loosely  compacted  beds  ;  rain  at  times  falling,  al  times 
evanescent  snow  ;  the  land  to  the  southward  of  llorsehcad 
abreast:  a  shoal  of  finners,  about  twenty  in  number,  passed  the 
ship,  going  with  immense  speed  to  the  southward  :  a  llock  of  cor- 
vorants  (pelecanus  carbo)  Hew  towards  land  :  larus  maximu«,  and 
procellaria  glacialis;  the  latter  journeying  singly,  but  numerous- 
ly, to  the  northward  :  about  noon  a  calm  succeeded,  which  continu- 
ed for  some  hours,  when  the  wind  sprung  up  at  N.  I).,  faintly  in- 
creasing :   latter  p:irt  hazy  •  passed  ;.  berg  which  stood  above  the 


\ 

V 


IM' 


138 


ON    THE    EFFECTING    OF 


rock,  to  prevent  the  bears  and  foxes  from  digging  up 
the  body.  A  notion  prevails  among  the  masters  of  the 
whale  ships,  that  every  disappointment  and  unfavour- 
able accident  of  the  voyage  would  ensue  were  they  to 
permit  any  curious  person  to  fetch  the  skull  of  a  Green- 
lander  aboard ;  and  so  strong  is  this  absurd  impres- 


surface  of  the  sen  at  an  elevation  of  about  ^00  feet  perpendicular  ; 
flaws  of  ice  all  around  :  lat.  73=  15'  N. 

July  4  :  ther.  32%  34°,  32'  :  wind  N.  E.,  strong  breeze  :  the 
greater  part  of  this  day  the  weather  continued  chill  and  thick  : 
about  eight  p.  m.  it  cleared  up  and  afforded  a  view  of  thirty  sail, 
moving  in  various  courses  among  the  ice,  which  by  the  wind  and 
tide  has  been  broken  into  streams  :  very  little  northing  has  been 
obtained  this  day,  in  consequence  of  the  contrary  wind,  and  the 
descent  of  the  ice,  which  it  required  much  skilful  management  to 
keepclearof :  sterna  hirundo  plying  his  delicate  pinion  ;  whilst 
the  procellaria  glacialis  seemed  quite  at  ease,  cleaving  the  breeze 
without  apparent  effort. 

July  5:  ther.  32°,  38°,  35'  :  wind  S.  E.,  fresh  breeze  :  the 
vapour,  on  the  changing  of  the  wind,  became  converted  into  rain, 
which  fell  incessantly  for  nearly  twelve  hours,  when  at  ten  a.  m. 
the  clruJ  assumed  all  the  various  forms  of  cirrostratus,  from  th< 
light  brown  vapour  to  the  densest  streak  :  Horsehead  on  the  shipV 
beam  distant  six  miles. 


J 


t       ) 


Along  this  coast  the  land  appears  in  no  place  Hat  or  level,  neither 
is  the  elevation  of  a.,y  part  considerable  ;  but  the  iron-coloured 
rock  dips  at  once  into  the  sea,  which  is  here  of  unknown  depth 


A  NORTH-WEST  PASSAGE. 


159 


i>'um  on  the  minds  of  those  men,  whose  habits  arc  fami- 
har  with  the  most  disgusting  scenes  of  slaughter,  that 
tlie  utmost  uneasiness  is  signified  lest  such  a  shocking 
purpose  should  be  effected. 

The  heat  of  the  sun  reflected  from  the  snow  and  ice, 
and  also  from  the  face  of  the  rock,  is  intolerable ;  and 


'K^ 


Numerous  islands  lie  at  various  distanr  .is  from  each  other,  forming 
little  bays  and  inlets.  Horsehead,  so  called  from  some  fancied  re- 
semblance, is  one  of  these  islands,  beyond  which  is  Hickson's  Bay, 
which  is  very  well  sheltered  and  capacious,  running  very  deep  with- 
in the  islands,  and  having  a  fine  open  entrance.  Horsehead  is  the 
southern  extremity  of  Hickson's  Bay.  The  whale  hunters  give 
the  name  of  Frow  Islands  to  all  the  islands  northward  of  the  seven- 
ty-third degree  ;  and  to  every  recess,  no  matter  how  distinct  from 
each  other,  they  assign,  in  eijual  error,  the  name  of  Hickson's 
Bay  ;  but  the  one  now  mentioned  is  that  properly  so  called. 
This  bay  derives  its  name  from  the  master  of  a  ship,  who  was  very 
successful  in  killing  whales  within  it.  They  formerly  resorted  to 
this  bay  in  great  numbers  ;  but  from  the  repeated  persecution  of 
the  whalers,  they  are  seldom  seen  now  in  any  continuance  there. 
.Sugar-Loaf  Mountain  appears  very  high  over  *'  :;  islands  on  the 
north  ^ide  of  Hickson's  Bay.*      After  passing  last  mentioned 

bay.astring  ofislands  irre<;ularl\  ■;  vated  piescnt  thems'^lves  for 
a  short  distance,  when  a  tine  open  :  r!  deep  sound  comes  into  view, 
with  some  peaked  hills  beyon'  <ts  Of  r  re  :  delpliinus  leucas,  larus 
maximus,  terna  hiru&ido,  rolymbu^  civile  and  gryWe,  procellaria 
glacialis. 

Ire  no  longer  in  sight,  sar'  Mie  immensi  '..-rgs  around,  wliich 
mislead  the  eye  Ity  their  resjiuhlance  to  isl.mds  .  at  seven  p.  m. 
the  wind  again  set  in  at  N.  L.,  fresii  breeze  ;  cirrcst-atus  general- 
ly, but  in  the  western  region  a  stormy  blue  Hx^regation,  which 
would  portend  a  stifl'  wind  from  that  <juartor.      i  he  land  at  times 


*  There  arc  sonic  (lnii;i;t'r(iiis  rocks  m^ur  tlio.ii'  islands,  'vliicli  shoiihl  make  the 
iiuvij^atorrautioiisort'iitfriiij;  tlif  bay  oil  tlir  i  ortli  *'uif 


160 


ON  THE  EFFECTING  OF 


whilst  on  shore,  though  every  step  is  almost  knee-deep 
in  the  snow,  the  head  and  body  are  involved  in  a  burn- 
ing atmosphere. 

Marshal's  Bay,  which  we  reached  on  the  27th  of 
June,  is,  by  the  sweep  which  the  current  makes  round 
its  northern  arm,  a  resting  place  for  bergs,*  where. 


loaded  with  mist,  but  mostly  clear  to  the  eastward  :  on  a  sudden  a 
mass  of  purplish  brown  cirrostratus  arose  on  the  horizon  in  W.  S. 
VV.,  and  this  was  followed  by  a  fine  fresh  breeze  from  the  same 
point,  when  immediately  the  cloud  of  stormy  blue  assumed  a 
creamy  hue  :  at  ten  p.  m.  abreast  of  Sugar-Loaf  Bay,  which  lies 
i'n  latitude  by  observation  TJ'  5U'  N,  thirty-six  ships  in  sight. 


The  islands  formini;  the  southern  wing  of  Sugar- Loaf  Bay  are 
caued  the  Seal  Islands,  from  the  great  number  of  those  animals 
formerly  found  there,  from  which  haunt  the  frequent  visits  of  the 
whale  ships,  and  the  persevering  pursuit  of  the  U»kee-mc  have 
expelled  them.  The  mountain  v/hioh  gives  name  to  (.his  bay  is  of 
a  conical  form,  ol' which  the  above  sketch  gives  an  accurate  view. 
This  hill  owes  its  distinguished  elevation  more  to  its  standing  alone, 
and  to  the  ilatness  of  the  adjacent  lands,  than  to  its  proper  height. 
Four  small  islands  lie  near  its  base,  which  are  a  favourable  retreat 
of  the  eider  duck. 

July  6  :  ther.  J2%  42',  40°  :  wind  W.  N.  W.,  fresh  breeze  : 
weather  thick  with  acicular  snow  collected  into  drops  :  the  stormy 
blue  cloud  invariably  portends  a  wind  from  the  (juarter  wherein  it 
appears,  as  is  the  case  in  the  wind  of  this  day  which  followed  the 

*  A  bay  north  of  Jacob's  Bay,  and  near  Black  Hook;  is  remarkably  so,  and 
thence  is  uauted  Berj;y  Bay. 


A    NORTII-WF-ST    PASSAGF.. 


10} 


from  their  i^reat  weight,  they  I'asten  on  the  projecting- 
rocks  below,  and  unless  moved  by  extraordinary  in- 
crease of  sea,  from  swells,  or  solution  of  inland  ice, 
they  are  known  to  remain  for  years.  Some  of  the 
sailors  in  tFie  Thomas  recognised  in  this  bay  two  of 
several  years'  continuance,  particularly  a  h.irge  ragged 


'li- 


indication  of  the  preceding:  the  stormy  blue  cloud  of  yesterday, 
when  observeil,  lay  at  a  «iistance  of  about  ten  leagues:  lititudc 
observed  at  noon  was  73'  42'  N.  :  a  cumulostrptus  over  the  land 
to  the  eastward  with  accessory  cumulus,  which  soon  dispersed  : 
land  distant  about  ''i^iii.  leagues  •  In  the  afternoon  passed  the 
largest  berg  ;yet  seen,  more  than  140  feet  above  the  surface  of  the 
sea,  and  having  a  channelled  summit  like  one  already  noticed  :  the 
body  of  this  berg  was  riven  into  caverns,  and  it*  water  edge  was 
heaped  with  fragments  like  mountain  debris  ;  this  was  most  ob» 
servable  on  its  north-eastern  side,  from  which  it  would  appear  that 
a  wind  from  that  point  had  forced  this  mass  through  the  islands, 
whilst  in  the  straining  these  caverns  were  formed,  the  ruins  of 
which  were  forced  by  the  wind  and  waves  back  upon  the  berg  in 
the  manner  just  mentioned  :  throughout  tlie  afternoon  the  atmos* 
[)hero  continued  clear  ami  dry,  yet  somev/hat  chill  from  the  pre- 
sence of  numerous  straggling  tlaws  :  col3'nibus  gryllc  and  glocitans, 
procellaria  glacialis  and  sterna  hirundo. 

At  midnight  the  wind  set  in  at  S.  W.,  light  breeze,  at  which  time 
a  milky  stratus  encircled  the  horizon,  and  in  the  point  of  wind  a 
beautiful  exhibition  of  cirrocumulus  occurred,  the  patches  being- 
edged  wjlh  a  rich  tinting  of  sun-light,  which  contrasted  with  good 
t'tl'ect  to  the  purplish-brown  swell  of  the  centre.  Out  of  this  as- 
semblage of  small  clouds,  there  issued  a  brilliant  radiation  of  snow- 
white  cirrus,  such  as  has  been  observed  in  the  journal  on  the 
'3th  of  June.  This  radiation  seemed  to  shoot  from  behind  and 
above  the  cirrocumulus  cloud  just  mentioned,  instantaneous,  rapid, 
and  resistless  as  the  polar  coruscation.  At  first  a  continuous 
stream  of  white  issuing  from  an  irregular  coronal  ring,  apparently 
tou'hing  (he  oloiid  :   iVom  (his  ring  a  mazy   spire  descending  held 

21 


i. 


162 


ON    THE    >rt'EC'riN<;  OK 


berg  more  than  two  miles  in  extent.  This  la  the  one, 
which,  wlien  speaking  of  the  arctic  ice,  I  mentioned,  as 
affording  evidence  ol'  being  rent  from  the  continent 
above  the  Linna^an  Isles.  The  lofty  columnar  tops 
with  which  it  is  crowned,  are  nothing  but  the  ridges 
remaining  of  the  icy  mass,  which  has  been  channelled 


snorter  and  more 
siiccoiuled  a  gra- 


commiinication  with  tho  cloud  :  from   the  point  in   which  the 

was  sweeping  his  lowest  arch,  other  radiatic 

sharp,  came  in  response  to  the  former,  to  win 

dual  but  uninterrupted  cl»ange  of  the  radiations  from  the  clotui  into 

a  reticulated  form  with  recurved   points  :  th.-   cirrof  umnlns    also 

underwent  a   partial  dissolution   in   the   moan  time  ;  the   denser 

patches  descending  in  loose  yellowish-brown  cirroslratu". 

I  have  been  thus  particular  in  detailing  the  circuins^tancos  of  this 
phenomenon,  as  1  am  not  aware  that  the  like  has  been  before  ob- 
served by  any  person  else.  Of  its  utility  the  philosophic  reader 
may  possibly  form  a  better  conclusion  than  I  can  presume  to  do  ; 
yet  as  many  such  may  not  have  the  opportunity  of  witness.ing  the 
like,  from  the  difficulty  of  access,  whilst  on  the  spot  I  felt  it  my 
duty,  in  the  cause  of  science,  to  record  wliat  I  had  observed. 

July  7:  ther.  42°,  4G  =  ,  32=  :  wind  N.  E.,  nearly  calm:  the 
radiation  from  S.  W.  still  coiuinues  (10  a.  m.)  undiminishe«l  and 
very  beautiful  :  in  the  zenith  comoid  cirrus,  and  purplish-brown 
cirrostratus  suddenly  forming  in  the  horizon  around  :  the  wea- 
ther delightfully  fme  ;  at  noon  the  atmosphere  became  cloudless, 
the  radiation  having  previously  undergone  a  sudden  solution  into 
?:  milk-white  hazy  sufl'us-ed  state,  and  disappeared  :  the  great  berg 
last  noticed  not  far  distant ;  at  one  p.  m.  a  single  stream  of  cirrus 
sprung  from  S.  VV.  appearing  to  embrace  the  opposite  ]»oint  of  the 
horizon,  at  wh'ch  m  u.ent  I  observed  the  thermometer  at  the  de- 
gree noted  as  Jaghest,  and  almost  instantaneously  a  thick  fog  ad- 
vanced from  th-v  northward. 

At  four  p.  m.  the  cirrus  streamers  increased  in  the  same  direc- 
tion as  the  former,  seemidg  to  issue  from  an  invisible  corona  in 
the  !5.  VV,  under  which  lay  a  reddish-brown  mist  of  <.irrostia(iis. 


M 


m 


i& 


A    NORTH-WEST    PASSAGE. 


163 


hy  the  annual  torrents,  tliat  tumble  from  that  extra- 
ordinary accumulation  of  confjealed  water.  Neitlier 
does  it  require  any  of  those  "convulsions  of  nature," 
which  sometimes  shake  the  Andes,  to  cause  such  a 
separation  of  the  above  huge  block  from  the  enor- 
mous   original.      The   simple  visitation   of  the    sun, 


r 


I 


I 


In  tho  nortli-oast  point,  ;il  an  olovation  of  about  tliirty  dccfrees  from 
the  hori/on,  a  similar  mist,  with  circular  hasc,  appeared  to  be  the 
source  of  corrcspondin;j;  streams  of  cirrus,  which  met  the  former 
in  the  zenith  ;  and  the  meetinj;,  or  intjsculalion,  as  such  a  union 
has  been  called,  was  jiroductive  of  cirrocumulus,  which  was  im- 
mediately formed  in  llimsy  patches  :  the  cirrus  streamers  conti- 
nued throughout  this  day  lixed  in  nearly  the  direction  of  VV.  S.  W. 
and  K.  N.  K.  which  points  correspond  witli  the  ma2;netical  varia- 
tion, observed  on  a  meridian  azimuth  compass,  by  which  I  ascer- 
tained the  variation  to  be  somewhat  beyond  sixty-seven  dei^rees 
north-west  :  latitude  observed  at  noon  73°  46'  N.  At  midiii;;ht 
the  radiation  ceased,  and  the  south-western  region  was  darkly 
clouded,  to  which  the  rich  sun-light  of  the  hourafl'orded  a  pleasing 
contrast:  at  this  hour  the  burstini;  of  an  ic^  berg  rung  upon  the 
welkin  for  several  minutes,  with  a  report  louder  than  that  of  the 
heaviest  ordnance  ■.  thirty-two  sail  near  :  ship  grappled  in  a  flaw. 
July  0  :  ther.  32  =  ,  40°,  28°  :  wind  N.  E.,  fresh  breeze  :  still 
anchored  at  the  flaw,  which  shifts  slowly  to  the  southward  ;  a 
strong  tide  current  setting  in  that  direction  :  at  noon  the  tide  flowed 
rapidly  to  the  northward,  causing  numerous  eddies  along  the  edge 
of  the  flaw  :  the  course  of  the  current  by  compass  was  N.  E. 
which,  allowing  for  variation,  is  nearly  N.  N.  W.  more  westerly  : 
the  whole  sky  during  the  forenoon  was  covered  with  broad  irre- 
gular masses  of  cirrostratus  of  a  light  brown  colour  :  the  procel- 
laria  glacialis  imusually  active,  which  may  be  considered  a  certain 
indication  of  a  strong  wind  ;  also  the  kittiwake  appeared  in  great 
number,  and  was  very  clamorous.  At  tour  p.  m.  the  masses  of 
cumulostratus  became  confused  into  a  uniform  feature,  varied 
gnly  by  a  denser  cloud  of  stormy  blue,  which  lay  sullen  and  stiJl 


a 


m~. 


.^"iiK 


I  ^ 

*  ^ 


161 


ON'  THE  EFFECI  IMi   OP 


every  year,  Aiils  not  to  produce  similar  convulsions, 
and  load  the  sea  ^vilh  ice  bergs.  But  in  the  process 
of  a  few  years,  if  such  diminution  continue,  the  sup- 
ply must  cease,  and  some  future  Danish  historian  will 
again  have  to  "  ilee  to  the  mountains*'  to  ascertain 
the  origin  of  others. 


\r 


bi  ' 


near  the  horizon  in  th.'!  N.  K.  :  soon  aitorvvjirds  the  wind  t^rew 
t^trong  and  inenacini; :  the  ship  was  then  set  free  of  the  flaw,  as  a 
hituatioii  near  the  ice  is  under  such  circumstances  full  of  danger  : 
up  to  the  midnight  hour  it  continued  to  blow  a  very  strong  gale, 
with  a  heavy  sea. 

July  9  :  ther.   33°,  .54',  32°  :  wind  N.   E.,   strong  breeze: 
c.irrostratus  generally  siilTuaed  over  the  sky,  at  times  richly  illumi- 
nated by  the  sun-light  :  numerous  bergs  around  :  procellaria  gla 
'jialis,  colymbus  grylle,  and  Col.  glocitans. 

July  10  :  ther.  29°,  33°,  40'  :  wind  N.,  nearly  calm  :  atmos- 
phere thick,  and  minute  acicular  nnow  falling  :  at  noon  more 
clear,  when  the  snow  ceased  to  fall,  and  the  cloud  became  loose 
cirrostratus  at  a  considerable  elevation  :  a  cumulostratus  appeared 
in  the  eastward,  where  shortly  afterwards  land  came  into  view  : 
the  presence  of  the  latter  cloud  may  be  always  considered  as  in 
dicating  laiiJ,  and  tiiercforc  the  circumstance  cannot  be  too  strong- 
ly insisted  on,  and  it  is  imperative  on  the  navigator  to  know  the 
form  of  this  cloud  well,  and  also  to  be  aware  of  its  indications  ; 
proper  cnro  in  this  resptct  may  be  a  me;>ns  of  saving  both  th«' 
•^hip  and  seamen,  or  atVord  a  gratifying  anticipation  of  expected 
land.  The  remark  refers  specially  to  the  appearance  of  the  cu- 
mulostratus in  Davis's  Strait :  ursus  maritimus,  colymbus  gloci 
tans,  and  larus  eburncu';  ;  the  latter  very  active  and  plunging  in 
the  sea,  probably  at  the  clio  retusa,  which  appeared  very  nume 
rous  this  day  :  wind  at  noon,  soft  light  breeze  at  W.  :  afternoon 
the  wind  coming  from  S.  W.  with  dark  gray  cirrostratus  :  to  tht- 
northward,  and  close  to  th«  horizon,  lay  a  broad  belt  of  deep  yel- 
low intermixed  with  brown  and  red  :  this  phenomenon  is  rare  in 
Davis's  Strait,  but  is  frequent  in  the  Spitzbergen  seas  :  it  is  denomi 


% 


s 


A  NORTH-WEST  PASSAGE. 


16^ 


Were  the  purposes  of  tlie  voyage  to  allow  advan* 
tage  to  be  made  of  a  short  delay  in  Hickson's  Bay, 
which  we  approached  on  the  5tli  of  July,  a  very  valu- 
able acquisition  might  be  obtained  of  cider  down ; 
the  ducks  of  that  species  frequenting  the  low  islands 
on  the  north  side  in  countless  numbers,  for  the  pur- 


ul 


liS^ 


uatcd  field  blink,  being;  present  uhcrever   a  continuous  tract  of 
bergy  ice  occurs. 

July  11  :  ther.  32%  40%  33=  :  wind  N.  by  W.,  light  breeze  : 
cirrostratus  grayish-brown,  thinly  diffused,  which  as  it  passes  over 
the  zenith  admits  of  a  view  :  cirrus  and  cirrocumulus  at  a  vast 
height  above,  apparently  in  the  most  tranquil  state.  The  water 
is  intensely  blue  :  at  noon  a  well-marked  nimbus  appeared  ad- 
vancing from  the  northward  :  latitude  observed  74°  4'i'  N.  :  the 
yellow  blink  still  visible  :  the  sun-light  passing  through  the  denser 
parts  of  the  cirrostratus  in  the  south-west,  the  cloud  in  places  be- 
came intensely  bright,  and  very  painful  to  the  sight,  so  that  the 
eye  would  be  less  distressed  gazing  on  the  luminary  itself:  pro- 
cellaria  glacialis,  colymbus  glocitans  and  troile,  larus  eburneus. 


July  12  :  ther.  33' 


,  40°,  28  = 


wind  variable,  at  times  calm 


cirrostratus  generally  dill'uscd  :  some  whales  seen  ;  also  a  mono- 
don  monoceros  of  great  size  :  two  groups  of  seals  in  emigration 
passed  to  the  northward  :  numerous  flocks  of  colymbus  glocitans 
at  a  very  great  elevation  passing  in  the  same  direction  :  at  noon 
the  zenith  clearing  :  extensive  cirrocumulus  of  snowy  whiteness 
appeared  above  :  at  the  same  time  a  berg,  not  far  distant,  burst 
with  a  noise  resembling  thunder,  which  continued  heavy  and  long 
in  reiteration  over  the  ice  :  an  immense  flaw  is  descer  Jing  rapidh 
iVom  the  northward  :  larus  maximus  and  eburneus,  colymbu? 
grylle,  P.  glacialis. 

July  13  :  ther.  30°,  49",  32'  :  wind  N.,   light  and  variable  : 
the  sun  obscured  with  grayish  cirrostratus  :   the  weather  delight- 
fully fine  :  a  female  whale  killed  :    the  longest  lamina  (whale- 
bone) measured  nine  feet  ten  inches  :  clio  retusa,  and  many  spo 
<:ies  of  medusa,  are  vevv  numerous  in  these  waters  :  at  tfn  a.  m. 


M 


166 


o^  iiiL  tii'Lirii.NCJ  oi 


pose  of  reai"mi(  tlieir  youDg.  As  the  care  of  tin;  pa- 
rent bird  is  so  great,  that  it  will  devest  itself  of  its 
own  soft  eovering  to  guard  its  young  against  the  in- 
clemency of  the  climate,  the  nest  may,  to  such  as  seek 
it,  alford  a  good  su[)j)ly  of  that  very  va!ua^]e  material : 
one  island  alone,  as  I   have  been  correctly  informed. 


I 


i       ' 


N 


I*:    i 


H 

1 

I 

! 

\ 

\ 

'■\ 

) 

1 

I 

% 

.1 

' 

( 

7, 
1 

t- 

1 
.■•« 

I: 
\ 

11- 


tho  iviiid  c1i!iiis;ril  to  VV.  S.  W,,  liu;lil  breeze  :  sokh  afh-r  the  tluu 
niomf'tcr  iiulicated  lorty-nine,  >vlirn  tlio  }!;Iiiss  was  i ovcicd  with 
coiukmsed  vapour  in  drops  :  cirror.uriiuliis  in  snowy  exhibition 
de'-orated  the  zenith  :  latitude  olworved  at  noon  74°  45'  N.  :  at 
this  time  tlie  wind  came  IVom  the  southward,  tVosli  bree/.e  :  many 
flaws  of  ice  around. 

.Tuly  14  :  ther.  <^2\  38  =  ,  .{0'  :  wind  N.  E.,  strong  hreeze  : 
weather  clear,  with  cirrncuniuhis  at  a  s^reat  elevation,  and  rirros- 
tratus  in  profile  in  the  south  :  at  ten  a.  tn  the  clouds  showed  signs 
of  land,  and  at  noon  the  summits  of  four  islands  came  in  sight ;  at 
this  hour  a  heautiful  display  of  cirrus  radiation  *  ocrurred,  dart- 
ing through  tlie  cirrocumulus  hold,  which  underwent  instantaneous 
tlissoliilion  :  roiymbus  glocitans  in  numerous  flocks,  enlivening  tho 
dreary  sf^ne  with  its  busy  bustling  llight  and  cheerful  notes  :  a  fog 
indicalcil  l)y  a  light  gray  stratus  in  N.  and  W . 

July  15:  ther.  3G  =  ,   42%   34°  :  wind  N.,  light  ))reeze. 

July  It)  :  ther.  3G',  48  =  ,  38=  :  wind  N.  E.,  light  breeze  :  the 
ship  advancing  towards  land  on  a  S.  E  course,  came  in  with  an 
extensive  tield  of  ice  reaching  to  the  Linna^an  Isles  :  this  held 
was  interspersed  with  numerous  bergs,  and  appeared  unbroken 
for  leagues  in  extent,  east  and  west. 

The  stale  of  cloud  this  day,  beautiful  cirrocumulus,  and  tlimsy 
comoid  cirrus,  tho  j>oints  of  which  were  scattered  in  every  direc- 
tion :  the  atmosphere  to  the  northward  unclouded,  and  sky  of  a 
pearly  blue  hue  :  a  pair  of  burgomasters  on  wing  :  colymbus 
grylle  and  colymbus  glocitans  in  associated  and  numerous  flocks  : 
several  of  the  monodon  monoceros  came  from  under  the  tield  of 

•*  Corro.-pondiiit^  with  the  nia^iiciic  variation  very  fiiacHy. 


tl 


A    NORTH-WKST    I'A>^  \(;r. 


I(i7 


tilt!  pa- 
f  o(  iU 
the  in- 
as  seek 
atciial : 
ilurmctl. 


l^iitiisliiiig  several  pounds  ot^louii.  Ik^sidos,  the  old 
birds  arc  so  anxious  for  the  safety  of  their  pro<:;eiiv  as 
to  be  rcf:;ardless  of  their  own,  ^-o  that  they  are  made 
an  easy  f^poii  to  the  marksman,  'i'he  skins  of  the  anas 
niollissirna,  as  1  iiavo  before  notieed,  are  itt  verv  high 
estimation. 


the  thoi 
crcil  with 
exhibition 
5'  N.  :   al 
ze  :  many 

\<r  lueeze  ; 
ind  cirros- 
DWCfl  signs 
1  siii;hl  ;  at 
•red,  dart- 
tantaneous 
vcning  tho 
)tcs  :  a  Ib;^ 

eze. 

eeze  :  the 
n  with  an 
this  rteld 
unbroken 

and  Hinipy 
'ery  direc- 
sky  of  a 

colymbus 
us  flocks  : 

10  field  of 


.  "4 


irc,  or  [ilay<:d  idoti-r  its  od^e,  and  nnmcroiH  fainilie.^  of  neals  wcrt* 
observed  in  merry  emigration  passini^  to  the  westward. 

.Iidy  17  :  thor.  tiii  .  "'-'  '<8'  :  wind  N.  K  ,  fresh  breeze: 
not  a  speck  of  ch)'id  to  l)i>  -  ;  the  an  Mnusnally  hot  :  the  con- 
tinent of  ice  distinctly  seen  .tittwh'  t)bservod  at  noon  T.j""  17'  N.  : 
lariis  maximiis  and  dclphinus  K'ucas  in  jrroat  number  :  colymbu'* 
glocitans  in  lar^f  tlocks,  sometimes  flyini;  very  hi!j;h  :  an  odd  ro 
lymbns  troile  a})peared  ;  and  col.  grylle  in  parties  of  live  :  few 
seals  seen. 

.July  18  :    Ihcr.   18  =  ,    12%    .'^2'  :    wind  N.  E.,    li.j;ht  air  :    the 
-tate  of  atm'isphere  still  the  same,  and  not  a  speck  of  cloud  to  bt' 
seen  :  at  noon  a  briirht  fo^  bank  arose  in  the  south-west,  which 
afterward  extended  itself  over  the  whole  sky,  verifying  the  asser- 
tion,  that  it  is  observed  to  move  against  the  wind  :  a  procellaria 
glacialis  appeared  entirely  white  :    larus  maximns  anil  eburncus  : 
the  monodon  aj/peared  in  creat  number  this  day,  and  the  Thomas's 
men  siiccrodod  in   killing  one  male  and  two  females  :    the  latter 
were  destitute  of  the  tooth  :   they  are  always  taken  without  that 
instnunent,  which  is  solely  conferred  on  the  male  either  for  orna- 
ment or  aimovance  :    the  male  monodon  measured  tVom  snout  to 
tail  fourteen   feet  :    (he  horn  six  feet  eight  inches  :     there  was 
also  a  minute  one  in  the  left  socket,  but  not  projecting  beyond  the 
skin  ;    thre«  fnmers   passed  near  the  ship  ;    (hey  seemed  about 
forty  feet  in  length   each  :    a  female  whale    (bala'ua  myslicetus) 
killed  this  day,  measured  sixt}'  feet  :   it  received  the  harpoon  but 
once,  and  dived  away  under  the  ice,   drawing  down  three  boats' 
lines,   being  1080   fathoms,    and  died  at  the  l»ottom  :    immense 
groups  of  the  oniscus  ceti  attached  to  the  under  lip,  and  to  the 
under  part  of  the  tins :  the  f'dge  of  the  fleshy  covering,  embracing 


\  "4 


m 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


2.0 


1.8 


1.25      1.4    |i.6 

4 6"     

► 

V] 


v^ 


/. 


/A 


'W 


7 


Hiotographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(71«)  873-4503 


,\ 


iV 


:\ 


\ 


L\ 


c> 


<p 


J  68 


ON   THK  LKFECTliNG   Ol 


Several  ships  killed  whales  during  the  I3diol'Julv. 
those  animals  having  appeared  in  greater  number  than 
usual,  generally  in  groups  of  five  and  six  together.  It 
is,  as  formerly  noticed,  in  such  circumstances  extreme- 
ly dangerous  to  strike  one  of  the  group,  as  the  otherfe, 
in  the  confusion  of  escape,    make  such  irregular  and 


f/ 


» 


V' 


] 


if     ' 


the  root  of  the  monoclou's  tooth,  was  covered  with  insects  of  tlic 
same  description  :  it  appeared  somewhat  singular  that  not  a  malle- 
muck, with  the  exception  of  the  white  one  above  noticed,  came 
near  the  ship  this  day,  though  the  men  were  engaged  flinching, 
until  the  latter  part,  when  a  few  appeared,  which  were  evidently 
new  comers,  as  was  remarked  by  their  clean  feathers  and  vora- 
cious efforts  :  the  fog  continued  throughout,  leaving  the  zenith 
unusually  clear  :  a  luminous  arch  appeared  tliis  afternoon  in  op- 
position to  the  sun,  but  destitute  of  iridescence  :  the  whole  inte- 
rior of  this  arch  was  strongly  luminous,  and  objects  within  its  com- 
pass partook  of  that  illumination  :  i  thought  it  worthy  of  a  place 
among  the  sketches,  as  not  having  been  heretofore  noticed  in  any 
publication  within  my  experience  :  the  sun-light  at  midnight  i.< 
strong  to  an  intense  degree  ;  but,  owing  probably  to  the  presence 
of  the  ice,  the  thermometer  stands  at  32°  :  the  water  here  is 
brownish  green,  and  abounds  with  the  clio  retusa,  and  many  spe- 
cies of  medusa. 

July  19  :  thcr.  12°,  4G°,  34"  :  wind  S.  E.,  light  breeze  :  at  an 
early  hour  this  day,  the  fog  had  entirely  dispersed,  and  no  cloud 
appeared,  except  a  yellow  stratus:  the  field  blink,  in  the  horizon 
all  around  :  the  sun-light  in  this  stratus  has  a  most  distressing  efllect 
on  the  eyes,  causing  very  painful  inflammation,  and  scorching  the 
face  in  an  incredible  degree  :  the  ship  remained  stationed  near  the 
field  of  ice  in  company  wilh  ten  others,  all  engaged  in  the  look- 
out for  whales  :  the  water  throughout  (his  day  was  smooth  as  glass, 
except  where  ruffled  by  the  col3mbus  glocitans  diving  after  the 
flimsy,  artless  clio,  which  seems  to  be  the  favourite  food  of  the 
roch  :  numerous  individuals  of  the  larus  maximus  appeared  ;  also 
L.  eburncus  in  great  tlocks  :  procellaria  glacialis  auJ  colymbus 


I 


■» 


v: 


A    NORTH-WEST    PASSAGE. 


169 


violent  motions,  that  any  boat  within  reach  of  them  is 
apt  to  be  destroyed  :  many  such  accidents  occurred 
within  view,  but  fortunately  no  life  was  lost.  The 
movements  of  the  whale  are  truly  terrible  when  writh* 
ing  in  the  agonies  of  wound  ;  and  when  the  deadly 
barb  is  plunged  into  his  body,  his  harmless  nature  di- 


-■i*> 


grylle,  the  latter  observed  to  be  in  pairs  :  the  Linnsean  Isles  at 
midnight  still  in  view,  distant  about  seven  leagues  :  many  ships, 
live  particularly,  are  at  the  same  time  danaierously  circumstanced 
amongst  packed  ice  to  the  vsrestward. 

July  20  :  ther.  45",  52",  48"  :  wind  N.  E.,  light  breeze  :•  ship 
stationed  nearly  as  the  preceding  day  :  those  ships  which  were  to 
the  westward  succeeded  in  getting  clear  from  the  ice,  which  other- 
wise would  have  inevitably  crushed  them  to  pieces  :  the  object  of 
the  masters,  in  going  so  far  in  that  direction,  was  to  intercept  the 
whale  in  his  progress  east  and  west  :  and  in  this  respect  not  one 
of  them  had  success,  the  ships  which  remained  the  most  to  east- 
ward having  killed  a  good  many. 

Latitude  observed  at  noon  75°  8'  N.  :  larus  eburneus,  and  co- 
lymbus  glocitans,  few  throughout  this  day :  procellaria  glacialis 
also  few  in  number :  it  would  seem  as  if  these  birds  had  proceeded 
to  the  southward  warned  by  the  indications  of  the  season,  which, 
to  human  observation,  are  not  so  discernible  as  to  those  migratory 
animals.  From  the  great  number  of  the  monodon  monoceros  seen 
and  killed  in  view  of  the  Linnaean  Isles,  I  have  marked  the  place 
upon  the  chart  "  Unicorn  Bay."  At  eight  p.  m.  some  very  light 
cirrus  appeared  in  the  zenith,  and  towards  S.  E.  :  larus  maximus 
and  colymbus  grylle  came  into  view  frequently  in  the  course  of 
the  evening :  the  water  in  Unicorn  Bay  is  of  the  colour  of  the 
bay-leaf,  and  crowded  with  moUusca  :  the  tide  setting  strongly,  as 
heretofore,  observed  north  and  south  by  compass  :  at  a  later  hour 
the  cirrus  changed  into  cirrocumulus,  evidently  communicating 
with  loose  patches  of  cirrostratus  lower  down  :  ship  laid  to  by  the 
flaw,  as  on  the  17th  current. 

July  21  :  ther.  34°,  48'\  42'* :  wind,  a  perfect  calm  :  at  thre** 

o.o 


■*-;■;■ 


m 


1^ 


170 


ON    THE    EFFECTING    OF 


rects  the  monster  only  to  escape.  If  ever  struck  be- 
fore, memory,  and  the  dread  of  such  another  attack, 
excite  alarm  at  the  presence  of  a  boat,  when  the  flur- 
ry in  which  the  animal  endeavours  to  make  off  is  at- 
tended with  extreme  danger  to  the  pursuer,  particular- 
ly if  a  number  happen  to  be  in  company  when  one  is 


\ 


ii 


^<; 


a.  tB.  this  morning  a  most  miisnificent  display  of  riuliation  occurred, 
of  which  a  sketch  has  been  attempted.  The  cirrus  radiation  here 
remarked  is  always  observed  to  issue  from  a  body  of  detached 
clouds,  assuming  the  form  of  an  arch.  Whether  this  curved  ar- 
rangement be  actually  in  a  portion  of  the  circumference  of  a  circle, 
or  merely  an  optical  delusion,  I  will  not  undertake  to  assert,  bul 
the  curve  invariably  appeared  to  me  arched,  as  I  have  related: 
the  basis  arch  of  the  phenomenon  which  occurred  this  morning 
was  of  amazing  span,  embracing  several  leagues  of  sea,  the  central 
radius  passing  through  the  horizon  in  nearly  E.  by  N.  per  com- 
pass ;  which  corresponds  closely  with  the  point  of  variation.  The 
radiation  darted  rapidly  and  irregularly  towards  the  opposite  point 
of  the  sky,  in  pale  white  spires.  The  atmosphere  in  the  southern 
region  immediately  became  sufluscd  with  whitish  brown  cirrostra- 
tus.  Soon  afterwards  various  beautiful  changes  to  minute  cirro- 
cumulus  and  comoid  cirrus  were  observable.  Within  the  arch 
lay  a  long  linear  bed  of  cirrostratus,  almost  black,  which  preserved 
a  horizontal  position  and  unaltered  form  during  the  radiation  and 
the  changes  mentioned.  In  the  space  of  three  hours  from  the 
lirst  appearance,  the  whole  was  dissolved  and  dissipated,  leaving 
the  atmosphere  free  of  visible  cloud,  but  not  quite  clear,  being  of 
a  milky  blue.  1  should  not  have  intruded  upon  the  reader's  notice 
the  detail  of  this  radiation,  had  I  not  been  convinced,  by  repeated 
observations,  that  there  exists  a  close,  it  may  be  said  a  direct,  cor- 
respondence between  its  appearance  and  the  variation  of  the 
needle.  From  what  cause  this  singular  coincidence  proceeds,  it 
will  still  longer  I  fear  remain  to  be  explored.  The  facts,  how- 
ever, which  are  herein  exhibited,  may  be  relied  on  for  the  accu- 
rncy  and  fivithfulness  of  report,  and  may  induce  some  enlightened 


i,  P' 


k 


■  7 


A    NORTH-WEST    PASSAGE. 


171 


struck,  the  fujjitivcs  beinj;  then  most  dansrerous.  A 
pair  also  engaged  in  the  daUiancc  of  nature  are  dan- 
gerous to  be  approached,  as  happened  in  the  case  of 
the  one  above  mentioned  being  killed  :  her  compan- 
ion at  the  same  time  being  struck,  both  wounded  de-i 
scended  to  the  bottom,  and  rose  again  to   seek  each 


and  able  mind  to  study  a  satisfactory  illustration  of  the  phenome- 
non. It  is  right  also  to  inform  the  reader,  that  during  the  forma- 
tion and  continuance  of  the  radiation,  no  irregular  motion  of  the 
compass  was  observable  ;  the  entire  process  appearing  to  go  on 
at  an  elevation  far  too  great  to  admit  of  any  influence  on  the  needle. 
The  state  of  cloud,  its  being  invariably  a  base  of  distinct  cirrostra- 
tus  in  a  curved  chain,  the  radiation  always  issuing  as  it  would  ap- 
pear from  behind  the  cirrostratus,  and  having  a  cirrus  consistence, 
and  all  those  appearances  being  usually  succeeded  by  a  wind  from 
the  opposite  point,  besides  the  correspondence  with  the  variation, 
are  circumstances  well  worthy  of  the  philosopher's  attention.  At 
noon  the  sky  became  free  of  every  speck  of  cloud,  when  a  light 
breeze  from  the  W.  by  S.  carried  the  ship  slowl}'  to  the  eastward  : 
light  cirrus  formed  :  latitude  observed  75"  12'  N. 

.July  22  :  tber.  .33",  SS'^,  .34"  :  wind  very  variable  :  from  mid- 
night the  wind  blew  furiously  from  S.  W.  a  strong  gale  ;  changed 
at  noon  to  N.  W.  light  air  with  fog  :  about  six  p.  m.  a  light  breeze 
from  W.  converted  the  fog  into  light  rain  :  in  the  evening  later 
the  wind  became  very  variable,  inclining  to  northward,  with  rain  ; 
at  ten  p.  m.  the  wind  coming  to  N.  E.,  the  upper  atmosphere 
cleared,  and  exhibited  cirrocumulus  ;  no  birds  '  be  seen,  but  an 
odd  mallemuck  going  southward. 

The  state  of  this  day  is  full  of  those  indications  that  mark  the  ne- 
<:essity  of  ships  proceeding  to  the  southward,  about  this  date,  and 
even  sooner.  The  Tiiomas  was  the  last  ship  that  moved  off  ; 
the  rest  of  the  fleet,  except  a  few,  having  some  days  since  depart- 
ed. The  greatest  apprehension  of  danger  arises  from  the  presence 
of  fog,  in  which,  if  a  vessel  become  involved,  and  carried  by  the 
current  among  the  packed  ice  and  bergs,  there  is  little  chaoce   of 


M' 


■  > 


172 


ON  THE  EFFECTING  OF 


other,  when  a  boat  belonging  to  the  ship  wliich  struck 
the  male  whale  was  dashed  to  pieces  by  a  jerk  of  the 
tail:  the  men  were  however  saved  by  a  boat  which 
happened  to  be  near.  The  female  died  at  the  bot- 
tom, and,  on  being  hauled  up  with  the  line,  the  under 
jaw  was  covered  with  yellow  mud. 

The  weather  during  the  early  part  of  the  15th  of 
July,  equalled  in  fineness  that  experienced  in  the  tem- 
perate latitudes  at  the  same  date,  the  sun-light  being 
exceedingly  strong  :  a  slight  mist  came  on  just  before 
noon,  but  soon  cleared  away.  The  ship  laid  to  near 
the  flaw  edge,  afforded  a  very  distinct  view  of  the 
iiilands,  which,  as  the  accounts  of  the  most  experi- 
enced navigators  inform  me,  have  not  been  seen  before. 
I  therefore  presume  to  give  them  the  name  of  the  Lin- 
naean  Isles,  in  honour  of  the  prince  of  natural  historians. 

The  atmosphere,  at  noon,  being  obscured  by  a  fog, 


€: 


I   1i 


Vf 


v-^ 


I', 


I  •  ■ 


.  '   "I 


fi  ''#  '! 


avoiding  destruction  :  neither  can  the  utmost  vigilance  guard 
against  such  a  visitation.  The  winds  heing  now,  usually,  very 
variable,  the  state  of  the  weather  may  in  the  course  of  an  hour 
change  from  clear  and  fine  to  that  of  the  thickest  fog. 

July  23  :  ther.  34',  44°,  38°  :  wind  E.,  light  breeze  :  from 
the  midnight  hour  the  breeze  continued  steady  till  noon,  freshen- 
ing a  good  deal  in  the  early  part  of  the  day  :  cirrostratus  in  every 
species  covering  the  sky  :  at  a  little  before  noon,  the  whole  cloud, 
passed  into  general  suflusion  very  rapidly,  and  became  very  at- 
tenuated :  at  noon  a  splendidly  white  fog  bank  lay  immensely 
along  the  b.nd  in  the  north-east,  the  low  tops  being  then  just  visible 
above  the  horizon  :  the  fog  bank  came  onwards,  slow  but  unim- 
peded in  progress,  involving  all  the  lower  objects  in  interminable 
obscurity,  and  shutting  up  an  elegant  display  of  cirrocumulus,  rest- 
ing apparently  on  cirrostratoug  beds,  which  had  previously  formed 
in  an  elevated  position. 


_j^  I     %., 


A    NORTH-WEST    I'AShAOE. 


i7:j 


very 
cloud 
at- 
sely 
sible 
nim- 
able 
rest- 
roed 


which  advanced  from  the  eastward,  presented  an  ob- 
servation. The  mist  in  the  afternoon  appearing  rather 
shallow,  the  upper  atmosphere  being  mostly  clear,  I 
was  induced  to  ascend  to  the  hurricane  house,  in  hopes 
of  seeing  the  land  more  satisfactorily,  when  a  pheno- 
menon of  novel  character  presented  itself  to  view. 

The  sun-light  falling  on  the  mist  formed  an  ellipsis 
strongly  illuminated,  apparently  rising  from  the  surface 
of  the  sea  to  the  upper  edge  of  the  mist,  at  an  angle 
of  about  twenty  degrees  from  the  horizon.  In  this 
ellipsis  the  iridescent  colours  were  not  distinguishable. 
The  inner  edge  was  pearly  white,  with  the  faintest 
tinge  of  blue ;  the  middle  yellowish,  deepening  into 
brown  and  purple ;  the  outer  edge  a  blackish  blue  ;  be- 
yond that,  a  brighter  line  ;  outside  of  which  again  lay 
the  cirrostratus  mist  in  its  peculiar  brown.  Within, 
the  ellipsis  was  bounded  by  a  deep  blue  line,  and  the 
inner  space  filled  with  mist  of  the  same  colour  and  il- 
lumination as  the  exterior. 

In  one  centre  of  the  ellipsis  my  shadow  appeared 
depicted,  the  head  surrounded  with  a  circle  of  the 
liveliest  iridescence.  Beyond  this  was  another  with 
similar  iridescence;  but  the  colours  were  reversed  in 
order,  and  more  faint  ;  the  belts  were  also  broader. 
One  circumstance  surprised  me  much  :  whilst  the 
ellipsis  rose  at  an  angle  from  the  horizon,  the  iris 
circle  appeared  depicted  on  the  surface  of  the  sea. 
No  account  of  such  a  phenomenon  having  in  my  recol- 
lection been  recorded,  I  thought  it  might  be  deemed 
worthy  of  consideration. 

The  Linneran  Islands  run  in  a  curve,  bending  west- 


1 1  k 


6i\  THE  EFFECTTNG  OF 


ward  and  northward,  from  the  Greenland  fside  across 
Davis's  Straits,  and  by  their  resistance  prevent  the 
descent  of  that  amazing:  accumulation  of  ice  to  which 
the  name  of  icy  continent  is  given.  In  the  open  spa- 
ces between  the  islands,  the  ice  continent  appears 
abruptly  broken,  as  if  large  bergs  had  been  detached 
in  former  years.  There  is  also  a  sloping  debris  at 
the  bottom  similar  to  rock.  The  upper  surface  of  the 
continent  is  torn  in  diverging  channels,  evidently  worn 
successfully  every  summer  by  the  dissolved  snow. 
The  great  body  of  the  polar  ice  rises  as  it  extends 
northward ;  and  where  it  leans  against  the  islands,  it, 
in  many  places,  out-tops  them.  The  channels  on  this 
icy  continent  all,  so  far  as  they  were  visible,  were  di- 
rected southerly.  Through  the  spaces  between  the 
islands,  the  bergs  obtain  a  passage,  and  coming  in  con- 
tact with  the  rock,  either  when  forced  from  their  ori- 
ginal situation,  or  in  their  passage,  they  are  frequently 
stained  a  brown  colour.  This  the  sailors  call  black 
ice.  The  general  appearance  of  the  Linnajan  Isles  is 
bare  basaltic  or  floetz  trap  rock.  They  are  in  gene- 
ral  small,  two  only  being  about  ten  or  twelve  miles  in 
length.  From  my  chart,  which  was  made  with  the 
utmost  accuracy,  the  number  of  these  islands  is  eighty, 
lying  at  irregular  but  short  distances  from  each  other. 
One  of  the  largest  of  the  Linna^an  Isles  lies  to  the 
northward  of  the  chain  in  the  western  extremity,  and 
is  of  a  conical  form,  much  more  elevated  than  the 
others,  and  is  covered  with  snow.  Many  smaller 
islands  lie  grouped  around,  as  well  as  to  the  south- 
ward of  it,  and  at  a  very  short  distance  from  eac)l 


I 


M 


1  \- 


m 


^,H 


.\  NORTH-WEST  PASSAGE. 


170 


I  act 


1^ 


^♦' 


other.     This  island  is  easily  discoverable  on  the  chart 
from  its  superior  extent. 

Tlie  latitude  of  the  next  larger  island  to  the  south- 
ward was  found,  by  observation,  to  be  75"  3'  N. ; 
and  the  variation  determined  the  same  time,  by  an 
azimuth  compasiitaind  corrected  to  the  time  at  Green- 
wich, was  exactly  H2^". 

On  the  16th,  ten  whales  were  remarked  invariably 
running  eastward  and  westward,  out  from  the  Green- 
land waters,  and  others  again  pursuing  a  contrary 
course.  The  whale  hunters  are  so  convinced  of  this, 
that  they  sail  always  in  that  direction  when  in  high 
latitudes.  Hence  the  obvious  conclusion  must  be, 
that  the  further  emigration  of  those  animals  north- 
Ward  is  limited  to  the  Linnaean  Isles ;  and  that  too, 
from  the  impossibility  of  their  obtaining  a  supply  of 
air  underneath  the  icy  continent.  Indeed,  when  a 
whale  is  struck,  if  it  happen  to  run  for  the  ice,  the 
hunters  are  almost  certain  of  its  capture,  as  it  must 
come  out  again  for  breath,  when  the  boats,  being  ar- 
ranged along  the  edge  of  the  field,  are  sure  to  be 
ready  to  repeat  the  blow  the  instant  the  animal  re- 
appears. I  saw  one,  whicb  was  so  wounded,  succeed 
in  spying  out  a  small  hole  within  th  >ce  field,  where 
scarcely  more  than  the  head  had  access  to  the  air ; 
and  there  the  creature  rose  in  imagined  security,  at  a 
great  distance  from  the  edge ;  but  the  blowing  soon 
exposed  his  situation,  both  from  the  sound,  and  the 
watery  column  driven  up  in  respiration ;  and  the  hun- 
ters having  pursued  across  the  ice  to  the  spot,  soon 
succeeded  in  despatching  their  victim. 

Among  the  whales,  on  the  20th,  taken,  there  was  a 


9 


T 


176 


ON  THE  EFFECTING  OF 


S.    t\ 


I 


in 


ii. 


young  one,  about  half  grown ;  and  as  this  circum- 
stance is  rare  in  Davis's  Strait,  though  frequently  oo^ 
curring  in  the  seas  around  Spitzbergen,  it  would 
strongly  support  the  opinion  that  Greenland  is  termi- 
nable at  a  very  low  degree  from  the  pole ;  nor  would 
this  presumption  be  misapplied  ifi||kKtended  to  the 
American  continent,  which  reaches  nftle,  if  at  all,  fur- 
ther northward  than  the  latitude  of  the  Linnsean  Isles. 
In  this  sweep  of  the  arctic  region,  some  promontory 
may  hereafter  be  found  to  violate  the  line  such  as 
Spitzbergen  does ;  but  the  fact  of  no  land  lying  around 
the  pole  may  be  fairly  presumed;  and  of  this  fact  I 
have  to  adduce  a  weighty  proof  from  the  observations 
communicated  by  one  of  the  masters  who  proceeded 
so  far  to  the  westward,  being  one  of  the  five  yesterday 
in  danger. 

"  After  clearing  the  ice,  all  to  the  northwest  was 
heavy  open  sea,  the  swell  and  current  coming  from 
that  point,  and  no  obstruction  appeared  against  pro- 
ceeding as  far  north  as  he  pleased  :  at  all  events,  a 
hundred  miles  further  (more  than  three  degrees)  were 
accessible."  But  as  open  sea  presents  little  chance 
of  meeting  with  the  whalepin  a  state  of  rest,  this  per- 
son, mindful  of  his  oath,  deemed  it  adviseable  to  re- 
turn to  the  eastward.  This  part  of  the  Journal  will 
he  useful  in  reference  to  our  inquiry,  when  further 
considering  the  subject  of  the  northwest  passage. 

A  lofty  berg  this  day  came  in  view,  with  a  Gothic 
arch,  at  least  100  feet  high,  passing  quite  through  one 
extremity ;  the  bottom  of  the  arch  was  covered  with 
the  fragments  that  had  fallen  from  the  cavity  above. 
Over  the  crown  of  this  arch,  a  broad  and  heavy  super- 


f 


i 

'i 


^ 


:n 


A    NORTH-WEST    PASSAGE. 


177 


■#; 


structure  of  the  icy  mass  sat  suspended,  ofrerin<:r  an 
appearance  of  stability  awfully  deceptive;  under 
which,  were  an  antiquarian  to  stand  takinii;  a  drawing 
from  this  extraordinary  structure,  very  few  persons 
of  common  caution  would  venture  to  ensure  his  life  : 
the  washing  of  the  sea  had  worn  a  bay  within  the 
bosom  of  this  berg,  which  bore  strongly  the  semblance 
of  land,  and  the  ruins  of  the  icy  arch  added  forcibly 
to  the  deception. 

From  the  remarks  in  the  preceding  day's  journal 
(to  which  the  reader  is  referred)  the  approach  of  the 
fog  bank,  on  the  23d  of  July,  must  have  been  contem- 
plated with  much  uneasiness.  At  a  distance  from  the 
land,  which  at  best  could  only  relieve  from  the  appre- 
hension of  drowning ;  in  a  latitude  which  forbade 
every  hope  of  escape  or  prolonged  life,  were  the  ship 
to  founder  ;  and  well  aware  that  the  all-involving  fog 
would  have  its  ruinous  elfects  increased  by  any  degree 
of  breeze;  it  may  not  be  exaggeration  to  say,  that 
such  a  situation  could  by  no  means  be  considered  en- 
viable. Having  advanced  further  north  than  the  ivhakrs 
(who  are  certainly  most  intrepid  and  daring  naviga- 
tors) Ao^/  ever  ventured  before ;  the  circumstance  also 
of  the  Thomas  being  the  last  to  return,  though  some 
others  were  in  sight ;  and  tlie  apprehension  that  the 
wind  coming  from  the  southward,  or  westward  of 
south,  might  set  the  yet  undissolved  ice  again  towards 
the  inhospitable  shores  of  Greenland,  and  so  preclude 
the  possibility  of  return,  were  matters  for  leilection 
little  calculated  to  preclude  aiarjn.  Under  those  cir- 
cumstances, however,  the  discipline  of  the  men,  how- 
ever rude  it  may  be  considered,  kept  Qsevy  mind  on 

23 


i 


\\ 


I,: 


178 


ON    riiE  i:kfC(;ting  of 


rf 


llio  n]<Mt;  and  tlic  ship's  Ibrt^castlc  and  bow  were 
never  without  a  careful  eye  to  look  out  for  danger. 
As  (he  fou;  advanced  in  the  afternoon,  the  whole  sur- 
iDundini^  scene  Ijecanu?  obscured ;  many  bergs  had 
been  previously  seen,  and  the  necessary  precautions 
had  been  vigilantly  insisted  on.  Notwithstanding  all 
the  care  of  the  watch  on  deck,  the  shij)  came  unex- 
pectedly within  half  her  bowsprit-length  of  a  frowning 
berg,  deoj)ly  cloaked  with  mist,  which,  in  die  tempe- 
rature of  the  hour,  it  was  throwing  oil' in  clouds,  and 
was  of  course  in  such  a  tendency  to  solution,  that  the 
least  touch  from  any  part  of  the  ship  would  have  pro- 
duced a  disruption  capable  of  overwhelming  her  in 
un  instant.  Fortunately,  by  backing  the  sails  imme- 
diately, the  danger  was  avoided ;  and  other  vessels, 
four  ill  number,  coming  on  the  same  course  in  succes- 
sion, were,  by  the  cries  of  the  men  from  the  other 
ships,  successively  warned  of  the  situation.  Many 
heavy  flaws  lay  around,  olfering  such  openings  to  the 
eastward  as  were  at  first  thought  to  lead  to  open 
water ;  but  hope  to  that  elTect  was  found  deceptive, 
and  the  ships  were  compelled  to  warp  back  again  to 
the  westward,  to  get  clear  of  the  flaws. 

The  sea  in  this  latitude,  which  is  that  of  Devil's 
Thumb,  must  be  sliallow,  as  an  innumerable  hoard  oi* 
bergs  is  hereabouts  remarkable,  though  the  current 
to  the  southward  is  still  strong  enough  to  set  them  in 
that  direction.  From  the  summits  of  those  bercs  an 
accumulation  of  vapour,  exuded  under  the  influence  of 
the  sun,  assumes  a  form  similar  to  a  cumulous  cloud, 
or,  as  some  readers  may  more  familiaily  represent  it 
to  their  recollection — such  an   appearance  as,  on  a 


I 


i 


k 


!  "'-t 


i    M'' 


^'f\ 


-iK  NORTIMVF.S  r   I'AS'^Ar.r. 


I7l» 


3  sur- 
;  had 
itions 


m'catcr  scnlc,  caps  tlio  mountains'  siitntnil  in  tempe- 
rate climns,  before  or  alter  rainy  weather.  The  vaii- 
ous  fantastic  forms  of  those  ber^s  adils  to  this  iinai;i- 
nary  representation  ;  many  not  a  hundred  feet  in  eh*- 
vation,  seeiniiiij  to  be  mountains  in  miniature  sur- 
rounded witli  appropriate  e\hah'\tions ;  and  others, 
from  their  sharp  squared  suinmils,  woidd  adijid  a  pic- 
ture, not  absurdly  ahke,  of  palaces  whose  many  sum- 
mits, by  the  streaming*  smoke,  gave  indication  of  (he 
hixtn-y  within. 

In  the  afternoon  the  fosr  cleared  away,  Vi\\i\  «rave  to 
the  view  several  islands,  towards  and  aloni;  which  the 
ship  was  running  under  a  fresh  breeze  N.  by  K. 

At  the  terminatiorj  of  this  coast,  and  at  a  considera- 
ble distance  N.  E.  of  the  most  northern  island  in  the 
lific,  stands  that  singular  rock  which  the  sailors  de- 
nominate the  Devil's  Thumb,  being  an  isolated  rock, 
standing,  as  it  were,  the  go;\.l  of  northern  voyage  in 
Davis's  Strait. 

To  the  south-westward  of  the  Devil's  Thumb  is  a 
large,  long,  rugged  ishuid,  which  is  the  most  north- 
westerly of  Cjireenland  \\\  those  seas,  coveiing  the 
waters  in  whicli  is  seated  tlie  Devil's  Thumb  to  the 
north-east,  and  suniciently  distinct  in  distance  to  be 
considered  not  a  pait  of  the  chain  of  the  Linnu^nn 
Isles.  Within  the  above-n)cnlioned  large  ishuul  lies 
an  extensive  sound  of  unknown  bounds  eastward,  and 
which  to  the  southward  is  terminated  by  the  islands 
forming  the  northern  extremity  of  Sugar-loaf  Hay. 
Numerous  other  islands  lie  to  the  westwaid  of  the 
above  sound,  but  imperfectly  known  from  the  casual 
visits  of  the  whale  hunters,  who  only  know  those  lands 


180 


ON  THE  EFFECTING  OP 


when  shut  in  by  the  ice  descending  from  the  north- 
ward, where  they  remain  until  the  sea  becomes  sui- 
ficiently  safe  for  their  purpose.  Under  such  circum- 
stances, the  masters  of  the  w  hale  sliips  only  know  the 
land  as  it  may  afford  them  an  hour's  shooting,  with 
their  rusty  fowling  pieces,  in  order  to  bring  home  some 
eider  duck  skins  to  the  wives  of  their  acquaintance,  cr 
the  friends  of  their  employers.  Yet  even  here  there 
is  population,  perhaps  endeared  by  domestic  sweets. 
This  thought  recalls  the  picture  so  admirably  drawn 
by  Horace,  who  could  have  scarcely  imagined  that 
his  delightful  words  would  so  happily  suit  the  situa-- 
lion.  With  the  indulgence  of  the  reader  I  shall  ven- 
ture to  apply  them  to  this,  as  I  believe,  the  last  retreat 
of  social  human  life. 


*i3 


Pone  me,  pigris  ubi  nulla  campis 
Arbor  aestiva  recreatur  aura  : 
Q,uod  latus  mundi,  nebulae,  mulusquc 

Jupiter  urget. 
Pone  sub  curru  nimium  propinqui 
Solis,  in  terra  domibus  negata, 
Dulce  ridentetn  Lalagen  aniabo, 

Duke  loquentetn. 


m 


Place  me,  where  frost  the  most  serere 
Forbids  the  tree  a  summer's  air. 

In  fogs  oppressed  and  sad— 
Where  wheels  the  sun's  eternal  course, 
Still  teeming  light  with  boundless  force, 

Nor  human  eye  is  glad  ; 
There  give  me  but  the  honeyed  smile. 
And  those  sweet  sounds  which  care  beguile. 

There  Lalage,  and  life  f 


A    NORTH-WEST    PASS  ACE. 


181 


To  many  readers,  1  fear,  the  foregoing  detail  of 
views  in  the  most  northerly  parts  of  Davis's  Strait  may 
appear  tedious  and  unsatisfactory.  To  sucli  I  would 
presume  to  say,  that  a  faithful  account  of  any  part  of 
the  globe,  which  has  been  hitherto  imperfectly  de- 
scribed, cannot  be  destitute  of  interest,  though  tlie 
subject,  as  in  the  present  instance,  be  of  the  lowliest 
and  most  barren  description  in  ordinary  view.  To 
another  class  of  readers  I  would  address  a  loftier  ap- 
peal. To  such  minds  as  seek  a  knowledge  of  the  ac- 
tual state  of  the  earth,  beyond  the  pale  of  vegetation. 
where  nature  slumbers  in  eternal  lethargy,  and  is 
roused  into  feverish  motion  only  for  a  very  short  por- 
tion of  the  summer  months,  under  the  influence  of  a 
perpetual  sun;  to  such  readers,  I  say,  a  view  of  those 
regions,  drawn  by  a  person  earnest  in  the  cause  of 
science,  and  anxious  to  behold  the  effects  of  correct 
opinion  propagated,  must  he  of  some  value.  Under 
these  considerations  I  have  ventured  to  exhibit  those 
scenes,  in  order  that  the  reader,  who  possesses  only  a 
wish  to  indulge  cursory  opinion,  as  well  as  the  more 
deeply  reflecting  reader,  may  both  fmd  entertainment. 

The  former,  by  indulging  that  propensity  to  cu- 
riosity which  forms  the  ground  of  much  of  the  hapj)i- 
ness  of  life,  may,  in  perusing  the  particulars  of  this 
excursion,  meet  occasionally  with  some  agreeable 
circumstance  amidst  the  dreary  and  desolate  j)iclure 
of  an  icy  region,  which,  for  seven  months  in  each 
year,  is  shut  from  access  by  continual  frost.  To 
know  from  what  causes  a  variety  of  the  human  spe- 
cies cherisljes  an  abode  in  such  inhospitable  climes, 
with  an  enthusiastic  attachment  to  such  deserts,  and 


182 


ON  THE  EFFECTING  OF 


'i 

1 

»■  1 

> 

i-  ?-■■ 

,f   f 


t^ 


why  any  portion  of  mankind  would  suffer  that  predi- 
lection to  forbid  removal  to  more  genial  latitudes, 
forms  alone  a  topic  for  consideration  of  much  in- 
terest. The  migration  of  birds  and  other  animals  to 
high  northern  latitudes,  their  habits  and  pursuits  in 
such  situations  as  they  frequent,  their  periods  of  re- 
turn southward,  or  emigration  in  other  directions, 
furnish  the  mind  with  store  for  valuable  reflection. 
All  these  points  are  comprised,  and  recorded  as  they 
occurred,  in  the  Journal  just  submitted  to  the  notice 
of  the  reader. 

The  latter  description  of  reader  has  now  laid  be- 
fore him  for  investigation  a  mass  of  facts  in  natural 
history,  important  in  many  points  of  view.  To  phi- 
losophic research  I  leave  such  inquiry,  and  the  useful 
application  of  the  results,  in  the  hope  that,  from  the 
heap,  some  deduction  may  be  drawn  of  importance  in 
the  concerns  of  science  and  of  mankind.  Neither  am 
I,  in  this  regard,  actuated  by  a  desire  to  arrogate  to 
myself  any  merit  for  furnishing  those  facts.  It  was 
my  good  fortune  to  fmo  that  the  motives  which  urged 
me  into  those  high  latitudes  were  rewarded  by  having 
presented  to  my  view  many  appearances  in  nature 
which  were  quite  new  to  my  observation ;  and  if  they 
appear  so  to  others,  and  prove  of  any  benefit  to  socie- 
ty, my  gratification  will  be  multiplied. 

Some  atmospheric  phenomena,  such  for  instance  as 
are  recorded  in  the  preceding  Journal,  have  not,  in 
the  extent  of  my  reading,  come  previously  within  my 
knowledge  ;  and  particularly  that  of  the  cirrus  radia- 
tipn,  which  bears  a  correspondence  with  the  mag- 
netic variation ;  if  an;^  of  my  readers  consider  with 


it 
'4»  A^ 


A  NORTH-WEST   PASSAGE. 


183 


»t    * 


me,  that  these  are  new  In  description,  and  tliat 
they  can  furnish  any  useful  results,  then  I  shall  not. 
consider  my  time  and  anxiety  thrown  away. 

In  this  pursuit  I  went  unbidden  and  unsolicited  ; 
and  should  my  inquiries,  as  I  trust  they  will,  afford 
either  entertainment  or  profit  to  the  general  or 
philosophic  reader,  I  shall  consider  such  approba- 
tion a  proper  stimulus  to  contribute  my  humble 
mite,  on  every  fit  occasion,  in  aid  of  the  cause  of 
science. 

In  giving  publication  also  to  the  result  of  my  in- 
quiries in  the  arctic  seas,  I  have  to  boast  of  a  loftier 
motive :  viz.  the  deep  concern  I  feel  in  the  cause  of 
humanity.  Having  learned  lately  that  an  expedition 
is  preparing  to  set  out  for  those  seas,  with  intent  to 
explore  a  north-westerly  passage,  by  a  polar  route, 
into  the  North  Pacific  Ocean,  I  should  deem  myself 
culpable  in  withholding  from  the  public  at  large,  as  well 
as  from  the  projectors  of  that  undertaking,  such  par- 
ticulars of  the  natural  state  of  the  higher  northern 
latitudes,  as  I  had,  during  the  course  of  last  summer, 
a  full  opportunity  of  observing. 

With  that  view,  therefore,  I  drew  the  reader's  at- 
tention to  the  actual  state  of  those  countries  during 
the  summer  months,  when  only  the  arctic  waters  are 
navigable  •  and,  in  the  course  of  the  Journal,  a  faitli- 
ful  and  accurate  account  of  almost  every  hour's  state 
of  weather,  wind  and  water  is  recorded. 

Those  circumstances  I  have  laid  down  as  a  basis 
for  some  observations,  which  I  shall  take  an  oj)por- 
tunity  of  submitting  on  the  subject;  which,  from  its 
importance,  is  worthy  of  the  most  serious  considera- 


iff 


J 


i1 


i8l 


OA    THK    EFFECTINO    OF 


I 


!'>'         *  {;( 


;,'■! 


tion,  not  only  as  it  regards  the  safety  of  the  indivi- 
duals engaged  in  the  expedition,  but  as  involving  in  its 
results  matter  of  the  \veisi:htiest  interest  to  the  trade 
and  general  commerce  of  Great  Britain. 

The  importance  of  this  subject  has  long  since  at- 
tracted the  attention  of  the  autocrat  of  all  the  Russias, 
whose  government,  doubtlessly  envious  of  the  pre- 
ponderance of  the  power  of  Great  Britain  upon  the 
ocean,  seeks  the  most  active  and  effectual  means  of 
anticipating  her  research  to  countries  hitherto  unex- 
plored by  Europeans. 

It  is  well  known  that  the  Emperor  Alexander  has 
at  this  moment  sonic  vessels,  under  the  command  of 
Lieut.  Kotzebue,  who,  having  examined  the  islands  in 
the  northern  Pacific,  between  Kamtschatka  and  the 
North  American  shores,  is  waiting:  in  some  station 
near  Behring's  Strait,  for  the  opening  of  the  ice  in 
the  ensuing  spring,  in  order  to  push  his  researches, 
if  possible,  across  the  polar  seas  into  Davis's  Strait, 
or  directly  forwards,  should  circumstances  favour 
an  enterprise  of  such  adventurous  daring,  and  reach 
by  such  attempt  some  port   in  the  north  of  Russia. 

As  this  curious  subject  has  long  engaged  public 
attention,  it  may  not  be  improper  in  this  place  to  take 
a  cursory  view  of  the  attempts  hitherto  made  to  dis- 
cover a  passage  westward  into  the  Pacific.  The  ac- 
count shall  be  as  brief  as  possible. 


4k     a 


'$ 


'■■»% 


A    NORTH-WEST    PASSAGE. 


185 


trade 


CHAPTER  VII. 

OF  THE  ATTEMPTS  WHICH  HAVE  BEEN  MADE  TO  DISCOVER 
A  NORTH-WEST  PASSAGE. 


So  early,  it  appears,  was  this  subject  of  navigating 
the  arctic  seas  entertained,  with  an  expectation  of  ob- 
taining an  intercourse  with  India  in  that  direction,  east 
or  west,  that  in  the  year  901,  Alfred  the  Great  is 
said  to  have  engaged  a  mariner  named  Other,  a  na- 
tive of  Heligoland,  to  survey  the  coasts  of  Norway 
and  Lapland,  and  to  discover  if  any  opening  in  a 
north-east  direction  would  admit  of  a  passage  to  India 
on  that  side.  The  navigator  above  mentioned,  on  his 
return,  gave  the  monarch  an  account  of  the  Norwe- 
gian and  Lapland  countries,  and  of  the  inhabitants, 
who  subsisted  by  fishing  and  killing  whales.  A  sub- 
sequent inquiry  during  the  reign  of  the  same  prince 
confirmed  the  accuracy  of  Other's  account. 

In  the  year  1497,  John  Cabot,  a  native  of  Venice, 
fired  with  a  desire  to  imitate  the  example  of  Colum- 
bus, and  encouraged  by  the  merchaii't^  of  Bristol, 
where  he  then  resided,  made  an  application  to  the 
King  (Henry  VII.)  to  be  permitted  to  make  a  voyage 
of  discovery  across  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  His  request 
was  readily  complied  with,  and  letters  patent  furnish- 
ed him,  but  enjoniing  strictly  a  return  to  the  port  of 
Bristol.       That   enterprising    navigator   accordingly 

24 


186 


ATTEMPTS  MADE  TO  DISCOVER 


u 


I,,  II 


set  sail  ;  and  he  appears  to  have  been  the  original 
projector  of  the  noith-west  passage,  after  the  ex- 
ample of  Columbus,  who,  in  a  similar  attempt  at  a 
southern  latitude,  had  made  his  grand  discovery  of 
America. 

Cabot,  inferring  from  the  accounts  of  Columbus, 
that  a  probability  might  exist  of  the  ocean  being  open 
to  the  northward,  directed  his  course  to  the  north- 
westward in  this  expectation  ;  and  on  the  24th  of 
June  discovered  Newfoundland,  which  he  named  Pri- 
ma Vista  or  First-seen-land.  Still  actuated  by  his  origi- 
nal intention,  he  sailed  further  to  the  northward,  and 
discovered  Cape  Florida,  where  he  found  people  al- 
ready established,  answering  exactly  to  the  descrip- 
tion of  the  Uskee-mes.  From  this  place  he  returned 
to  England,  carrying  with  him  three  of  the  natives,  as 
a  proof  of  success.  Such  an  act,  however,  could  not 
tend  to  impress  that  simple  and  harmless  people  with 
amicable  feelings  towards  their  visiters. 

In  1 52 1,  tbe  fame  of  Cabot's  expedition  encouraged 
some  French  merchants  to  send  out  a  countryman  of 
their  own,  named  Jaques  Cartier,  to  discover  a  north- 
west passage  to  the  East  Indies ;  but  it  seems  he 
penetrated  no  further  than  the  Bay  of  St.  Lawrence, 
and,  otherwise  unsuccessful,  he  returned  home  the 
same  year. 

In  the  year  1536,  the  origin  of  the  fishery  on  the 
banks  of  Newfoundland  arose  from  a  voyage  made 
from  Bristol,  by  Mr.  Robert  Thorne,  a  merchant  of 
that  place,  who,  with  the  King's  permission,  which  on 
such  occasion  appeared  indispensable,  fitted  out  a 
ship  at  his  own  expense,  and  sailed  to  Newfoundland 


it^-M 


k 


M 


A  NORTH-WEST  PASSAGE. 


18- 


with 


and  Cape  Breton,  discovering  the  very  valuable 
fishery  of  Newfoundland  on  his  passage.  By  the  dis- 
covery of  Thorne,  the  naval  and  commercial  pros- 
perity of  England  has  been  in  a  great  degree  promo- 
ted, the  fishery,  from  its  justly  estimated  importance, 
having  down  to  the  present  day  been  firmly  maiiitaiii- 
ed  in  British  monopoly.  Thorne  made  this  great  dis- 
covery merely  by  accident,  as  his  purpose  on  setting 
sail  was  also  to  ascertain  the  possibility  of  a  north- 
west passage. 

In  the  last  year  of  Edward  VI.  and  whilst  that  pro- 
mising young  prince  was  confined  to  his  death-bed  by 
sickness,  an  expedition  was  planned,  under  the  com- 
mand of  Sir  Hugh  Willoughby,  to  prosecute  a  voyage 
to  China  by  the  north-east  passage,  if  such  could  be 
ascertained.  For  this  purpose  three  ships  were  fitted 
out ;  but  from  the  obstruction  of  the  ice,  though  the 
ships  set  out  in  May  20,  l^.'iS,  Sir  Hugh  could  ad- 
vance only  to  the  seventy-second  degree,  and  was 
there  shut  in,  and  obliged  to  winter  in  Russian  Lap- 
land, where  that  intrepid  adventurer  and  his  crew 
most  miserably  perished,  in  consequence  of  the  ex- 
cessive cold.  One  of  the  ships  engaged  in  this  uiifor- 
tunate  expedition  was  more  successful  in  getting 
through  the  ice,  under  the  command  of  Capt.  Chan- 
cellor, who  passed  the  North  Cape  to  the  eastward', 
and  got  safely  into  the  bay  of  St.  Nicholas  on  the 
Russian  coast,  being  the  first  European  that  had  con-f 
ducted  a  ship  into  those  waters. 

At  the  representations  of  Capt.  Carleton,  u  on  his 
return,  the  whale  fishery  was  undertaken,  and  several 


H 


;l 


188 


ATTEMPTS  MADE  TO  DISCOVER 


ships  were  subsequently  fitted  out  in  that  trade,  which 
afterwards  led  to  the  discovery  of  Spitzbergen. 

In  i/iSt),  Capt.  Stephen  Burrough,  promising  him- 
self better  success  than  was  experienced  in  the  un- 
happy voyage  of  Sir  Hugh  Willoughby,  ventured  upon 
a  similar  expedition ;  but  his  attempt  to  discover  a 
north-east  passage  was  unavailing. 

Sir  Martin  Frobislier,  in  the  year  1567,  under  the 
auspices  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  undertook  to  ascertain 
the  existence  of  a  north-west  passage.  The  Earl  of 
Warwick,  in  a  spirit  of  patriotism,  encouraged  Capt. 
Frobisher  warmly  in  this  undertaking,  and  in  conse- 
quence he  sailed  in  June  with  two  barks  and  a  pin- 
nace, in  this  voyage  the  east  coast  of  Greenland  was 
seen  in  latitude  63°  8'  N.  He  here  discovered  the 
strait,  which  he  called  after  his  own  name.  Here 
also  he  lost  five  of  his  men  whom  he  set  on  shore ; 
and  by  a  very  unwise  and  unfair  retaliation  he  seized 
upon  one  of  the  natives,  and  carried  him  away  to 
England.  That  such  proceeding  was  unjustifiable  is 
evident  from  his  being  at  the  time  in  a  state  of  uncer- 
tainty about  the  fate  of  his  own  men,  whose  lives,  if 
spared  by  the  natives  up  to  the  time  in  which  the 
Uskee-me  was  seized,  might  probably  have  been  pre- 
served, but  such  a  proceeding  could  only  produce  the 
worst  consequences. 

Captain  Frobisher  brought  home  in  this  voyage  a 
piece  of  stone  of  a  black  colour,  which  some  chemists 
of  that  day  pronounced  to  contain  gold  ;  and  this  event 
tended  to  recommend  another  expedition  to  the  same 
place  in  quest  of  that  precious  ore.     High  expecta- 


*!*^ 

.M-" 


A    NORTH-WEST    PASSAGE* 


i»y 


tions  were  entertained  that  a  most  valuable  discover v 
had  been  made  on  that  occasion. 

Accordinj^iy,  by  the  exertions  of  his  patron,  the  Earl 
of  Warwick,  he  was  despatched  in  JOT?  in  quest  of 
the  land  of  gold ;  and  the  better  to  secure  success,  he 
was  provided  with  one  of  her  Majesty's  ships,  at- 
tended by  the  two  barks,  lie  again  saw  the  land 
lying  at  the  entrance  of  the  strait,  and  called  it  Queen 
Elizabeth's  Foreland.  Havincr  sent  ashore  to  make 
strict  search  after  his  men,  which  proved  he  was 
doubtful  of  their  fate,  all  inquiry  was  inelfcctual,  and 
he  hesitated  not  to  carry  off  two  men  and  one  woman 
prisoners.  Here  he  took  on  board  a  quantity  of  the 
ore,  which  afterwards,  being  carefully  examined, 
turned  out  altogether  worthless.  The  Queen  was  so 
much  pleased  with  the  account  given  of  this  voyage, 
ihat  she  called  the  supposed  continent  Meta  Incognita. 

In  l.')78,  her  Majesty  oidered  a  grand  expedition 
under  the  same  commander.  The  fleet  consisted  of 
fifteen  sail,  carrying  a  colony  of  J 20  persons,  who 
were  to  be  left  in  the  newly-discovered  country,  with 
three  ships  for  their  use.  Materials  of  wood  for  build 
ing  habitations  for  the  colonists  were  provided  alons: 
with  other  suitable  supplies  ;  but  a  storm  having  over- 
taken the  squadron,  the  ship  carrying  the  materials 
for  building  foundered,  and  the  undertaking  so  grand- 
ly begun  ended  in  nothing;  the  fleet  not  having  even 
been  able  to  find  the  strait. 

Captain  Frobisher  was  afterwards  advanced  to  the 
honour  of  knighthood  for  the  bravery  with  which  he 
contributed  to  the  destruction  of  the  Spanish  armada 
in  15a«. 


n 


,«!' 


I 


«i«r 


^i..- 


.(. 


lao 


ATTEMPTS   MADE  TO  DISCOVER 


Fn  the  year  1 .180,  the  Russia  Company  fitted  out 
two  siji^js  for  the  discovery  of  n  north-cast  passage. 
That  undertaking  proved  unsuccessful  and  unfortu- 
nate, one  of  the  sliips  having  been  lost,  and  all  on 
board  pcjished. 

In  1.08.'},  the  hope  of  finding  the  so  much  desired 
north-west  passage  indured  Mr.  Jolin  Davis  to  under- 
take it,  though  so  many  previous  attempts  had  failed. 
He  took  the  precaution  to  avail  himself  of  the  expe- 
rience of  Mr.  Fenton,  who  had  been  encraired  in  for- 
mer  voyages  for  the  same  purpose.  Davis  set  sail  on 
the  7th  of  June,  and,  on  the  20th  of  July  following, 
discovered  tlie  Island  of  Desolation  on  the  west  coast 
of  Greenland,  where  he  found  the  natives  a  civil,  tract- 
able, and  honest  people.  Having  proceeded  further 
to  the  northward,  he  discovered  the  strait  which  has 
been  since  called  after  his  name.  Steering  west,  he 
came  in  sight  of  the  land  on  the  American  side  of  the 
strait,  and  called  the  lofty  mountains  which  he  there 
observed  Mount  Raleigh. 

In  his  second  voyage,  in  1.586,  Capt.  Davis  advanced 
to  latitude  60°  47'  N.  where  he  again  saw  land,  but 
met  much  obstruction  from  the  ice,  which  he  avoided 
by  running  to  the  westward,  and  afterwards  succeeded 
in  reaching  the  .04°  15'  of  latitude,  where  he  also 
found  an  inoflensive  people.  The  land  here  appeared 
broken,  with  great  sounds  and  inlets. 

Captain  Davis  was  again  sent  out  in  the  following 
year,  when  he  penetrated  to  lat.  72**  12'  N.  where  he 
discovered  a  great  many  islands ;  and  from  the  num- 
ber of  women  who  were  there,  he  named  them  the 
Women's  or  Frow  Islands.     A  remarkable  promontO" 


n 


i 


-¥ 


A  NORTH-WF.ST  PASSAGE. 


191 


i,: 


vy  here  he  called  Hope  Sanderson.  This  was  the 
greatest  distance  to  the  northward  that  Davis  ever 
reached.  Steerinpj  westward  from  Hope  Sanderson, 
he  ran  a  distance  of  I'orty  leagues,  and  again  fell  i[t 
with  Mount  Raleigh.  Davis,  to  the  last,  remained 
confident  of  the  practirahihty  of  a  north-west  passage. 

After  tiie  failure  of  Davis's  attempt,  all  expeditions 
in  search  of  a  north-west  passage  were  for  some  years 
suspended  ;  but  the  public  mind  in  tiic  interval  was 
busily  occupied  with  numerous  pamphlets,  and  other 
publications,  both  for  and  against  the  possible  execu- 
tion of  such  a  design. 

In  1602,  Captain  George  Weymouth  made  another 
effort,  but  with  singular  want  of  success.  His  attempt 
was  not  calculated  to  support  the  arguments  of  those 
who  were  in  favour  of  the  measure,  and  it  was  again 
abandoned. 

The  intrepid,  but  unfortunate  Hudson,  next  took  up 
the  subject,  imagining  that,  by  exploring  the  seas  to 
the  northward  of  Spitzbergen,  he  might  have  a  better 
chance  of  success,  by  sailing  towards  the  North  Pole  in 
that  direction. 

With  this  view,  in  1607,  he  sailed  northward,  and 
in  latitude  73'*  12'  he  saw  the  land  of  Spitzbergen. 
He  there  observed  the  elevation  of  the  sun  at  mid- 
night to  be  10"  40'  above  the  horizon :  in  this  voyage 
Captain  Hudson  penetrated  to  82**  nearly,  and 
thought  to  effect  his  passage  to  N.  W.  that  way ;  but 
an  impenetrable  barrier  of  ice  forbade  further  pro- 
gress. 

In  the  year  1608  he  again  renewed  his  efforts  iu 
the  same  sea,  where  he  met  with  much  difficulty  from 


102 


ATTEMPTS    MADi:    TO    DISCOVKH 


t  f' 


the  ice  ;  he  then  tried  a  N.  E.  passage,  but  without 
efl'cct.  Another  endeavour  was  made  by  tlie  same 
j)cr.severing  individual  in  KiO!)  in  the  same  quarter; 
but  this  ended  as  fruitless  as  tiio  former. 

Defeat  seemed  to  spur  his  exertions,  and  the  fol- 
lowing year  he  set  sail  across  the  Atlantic,  big  with 
expectation,  which  was  increased  by  his  discovery  of 
the  strait  and  bay,  on  the  North  American  side, 
which  have  been  meritedly  called  after  this  inde- 
fatigable navigator.  After  having  traversed  much  of 
that  bay.  Captain  Hudson,  a  man  of  ardent  mind,  felt 
himself  still  not  satisfied,  and  intimated  an  intention  of 
looking  out  for  some  situation  in  which  himself  and  his 
men  mi[  ht  continue  in  safety  during  the  winter,  but 
when  the  provision,  which  had  been  laid  in  only  for  six 
months'  consumption,  came  to  be  examined,  the  stock 
was  found  nearly  exhausted. 

Hudson  melting  into  tears  on  observing  the  unhappy 
situation  of  his  people,  distributed  all  the  biscuit 
among  them,  and  this  inconsiderate  act  of  generosity 
was  cruelly  repaid  by  a  mutiny.  An  ungrateful  Avretch 
named  Green,  to  whom  the  Captain  had  been  re- 
markably indulgent,  having  conspired  with  the  mate 
of  the  ship,  and  the  majority  of  the  crew,  sent  tho 
unfortunate  man  with  his  son,  a  youth,  a  Mr.  Wood- 
house,  who  was  an  eminent  mathematician,  and  five  of 
the  hands  who  remained  faithful  to  their  master,  all 
adrift  in  the  shallop. 

Those  unhappy  persons  undoubtedly  soon  perished 
in  that  dreary  region,  as  no  account  of  them  was  ever 
after  obtained.  The  ruffianly  crew,  with  much  diffi- 
culty, and  in  the  greatest  hardship,  endeavoured  to 


B-l- 


Mi 


\   NOIITII-VVKST  I'ASSAdL. 


193 


ivithout 
c  same 
Linitcr ; 

the  fol- 
ig  with 
very  of 
,n  side, 
s  inde- 
niich  oC 
ind,  felt 
ntion  of 
and  his 
;er,  but 
y  for  six 
le  stock 

nhappy 

biscuit 
lerosity 

wretch 
een  re- 
le  mate 
ent  tho 

Wood- 
d  five  of 

ter,  all 

)enshed 
^fasever 
ich  diffi- 
ured  to 


■'it' 


return  honir.  and  one  only  of  the  wretclies  irvivod 
their  attempt  to  recount  tlu;  melancholy  tale.  Thus 
tortninated  the  etVorts  of  <hc  unha]>[iy  Hudson,  a  nma 
in  every  respect  worthy  of  a  better  fate. 

('aptain  l),itton  was  afterwards  sent  out  in  the  year 
11)12,  in  hopes  of  recovering  poor  Hudson;  and  after 
encountering  great  dangers  iit  Huflson's  Bay  and 
Strait,  having  been,  on  one  occasion,  intercepted  in 
the  Strait  by  the  ice,  he  lay  with  his  ship  locked  up 
for  twenty  weeks' continuance ;  he  at  length  succeed- 
ed in  extricating  himself  frotn  his  perilous  situation, 
and  returned  home  in  tho  utmost  disappointment, 
without  hearing  any  tidings  whatever  of  Captain  Hud- 
son, or  having  the  least  chance  of  finding  the  north- 
west passage. 

Captain  Gibbons  made  a  similar  attempt  in  101  i. 
and  returned  equally  unsuccessful. 

In  the  year  1015,  Captain  Robert  By  lot,  an  experi- 
enced navigator,  and  one  who  was  also  well  acquaint- 
ed with  the  causes  of  mischanjce  in  former  expeditions, 
having  sailed  with  Hudson,  Button,  and  Gibbons, 
was  appointed  to  make  another  trial  for  a  north-west 
passage. 

Captain  Bylottook  with  him  the  celebrated  William 
Baflin  to  act  as  pilot  in  the  arctic  seas,  for  which  duty 
he  was  peculiarly  cjualified  on  account  of  his  experi- 
ence in  those  icy  regions,  having  been  for  many  years 
engaged  in  the  whale  trade  at  Spitzbergen. 

In  this  voyage  Bylot  advanced  no  further  north 
than  the  sixty-fifth  degree  of  latitude  in  Davis's 
Strait. 

In  the  following  year,  (10 JO,)  Bylot  and  Baffin  pro- 

25 


"ih- 


194 


ATTEMPTS    MADE    TO    DISCOVER 


r  >^ 


k      \ 


If::" 


;    ( 


ceeded  to  explore  Davis's  Strait,  and  succeeded  in 
penetrating  beyond  the  remotest  advance  of  Davis, 
and  the  accounts  say  they  even  got  up  to  the  seventy- 
eighth  degree,  where  Baffin  observed  the  variation  of 
the  compass  to  be  65°  W.  which  was  then  the  great- 
est ever  known.  In  this  place  those  navigators  came 
into  an  extensive  sound,  which  they  named  Sir  Tho- 
mas Smith's  Sound,  and  which  spread  beyond  the 
seventy-eighth  degree.  Standing  over  to  the  west- 
ward, they  saw  Cary's  Isles,  and  afterwards  the 
first  sound  on  the  American  side,  which  Captain 
Bylot  named  Alderman  Jones's  Sound,  and  further 
south  in  lat.  74**  N.  Sir  James  Lancaster's  Sound. 

The  observations  made  by  Baffin  in  the  course  of 
this  voyage  impressed  him  strongly  with  the  convic- 
tion that  the  north-west  passage  was  still  feasible  ; 
and  he  communicated  his  opinion  to  Mr.  Briggs,  the 
famous  mathematician,  who  took  much  interest  in  the 
affair,  and  even  made  a  chart*  according  to  Baffin's 
information,  which,  with  a  discourse  illustrative  of 
the  subject,  was  never  made  public. 

The  persuasion  of  the  feasibility  of  a  north-west 
passage  continued  to  hold  an  influence  over  the  pub- 
lic mind  so  strongly,  that  in  1631,  the  King,  (Charles,) 


*  No  chart  has  hitherto  been  pubhshed  above  the  seveiit}' 
third  degree  of  north  latitude  in  Davis's  Straits  ;  and  I  indulge  a 
presumption,  that  the  public  will  receive  with  some  gratification 
a  chart,  carefully  made  by  myself,  affording  a  correct  view  of 
the  coast  of  Greenland  as  far  as  the  seventy-seventh  degree,  in- 
cluding the  newly -discovered  LianaBan  Isles. 


Win 


■M 


;i 


A    NORTH-WEST    PASSAGE. 


193 


"* 


*m 


n 


>«f 


:f; 


on  representation  being  made  on  the  subject,  gave 
his  commands  to  Captain  Luke  Fox  to  proceed  on  the 
inquiry.  His  Majesty  appeared  so  well  satisfied  of 
the  practicabiHty  of  the  undertaking,  that  he  gave 
Captain  Fox  a  chart  on  which  the  passage  was  mark- 
ed, and  also  a  letter  written  by  himself  to  be  deliver- 
ed to  the  Emperor  of  Japan  as  soon  as  the  Captain 
had  effected  his  voyage  into  the  eastern  seas.  Fox, 
like  his  predecessors,  roamed  about  in  Hudson's  Bay, 
unable  to  find  out  the  expected  passage,  and  returned 
home  without  accomplishing  his  mission,  but  still  cer- 
tain that  a  passage  could  be  effected  through  some 
yet  undiscovered  opening  in  the  northern  extremity 
of  Hudson's  Bay. 

Captain  Fox  drew  his  conclusions,  to  that  effect, 
from  the  state  of  the  tide  in  a  distance  of  250  leagues 
which  he  had  traversed.  "  It  is  inconceivable,"  he 
says,  "  how  such  a  vast  quantity  of  water  should  be 
recalled  and  repaired  every  twelve  hours,  if  it  were 
not  fed  and  supplied  from  some  great  and  vast  ocean, 
alluding  to  the  northern  Pacific. 

Captain  James,  of  Bristol,  sailed  to  Hudson's  Bay 
the  same  year  as  Captain  Fox,  aiid  discovered  several 
islands,  but  was  nearly  shipwrecked  in  some  sliallovv 
soundings,  with  a  rocky  bottom,  into  wluch  he  had 
unexpectedly  run.  His  researches  for  tiie  north-west 
passage  were  unsuccessful. 

During  the  same  year  the  Danish  £;overnment  sent 
out  a  ship  in  the  same  pursuit,  and  the  result  was 
similar  to  those  already  experienced. 

In  1653*  the  Danes,  unwilling  to  make  a  second 
experiment  in  Hudson'^*  Bay,   projected  a  design  of 


/-, 


196 


ATTEMPTS  MADE  TO  DISCOVER 


i  .,1 


W    <.. 


If       ( 


passing  in  a  north-east  course,  through  the  W  aygate 
Strait,  south  of  Nova  Zembia,  and  by  that  way  to  at- 
tempt a  passage  to  India.  The  obstructions  they  ex- 
perienced from  the  ice  compelled  them  to  abandon  the 
undertaking,  and  they  were  forced  to  return  as  unsuc- 
cessful as  former  adventurers. 

In  the  reign  of  Charles  II.  anno  1676,  the  Duke  of 
York,  afterwards  James  II.,  who  was  ever  attentive 
to  maritime  concerns,  at  the  advice  of  Lord  Berkeley, 
ordered  a  ship  to  be  fitted  out,  the  command  of  which 
was  given  to  Captain  Wood,  who  was  directed  to  sail 
in  company  with  one  of  the  King's  ships,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  discovering  a  north-east  passage  to  India. 
But  this,  like  former  expeditions,  was  frustrated  by 
the  ice,  which  prevented  the  ships  from  advancing 
beyond  the  seventy-sixth  degree  north.  The  misfor- 
tune of  shipwreck  was  added  to  disappointment,  as  the 
King's  ship  came  foul  of  a  sunken  rock  and  foundered. 
This  accident  damped  the  expectations  of  those  who 
advocated  the  design,  and  the  thing  was  pronounced 
impracticable. 

The  spirit  of  adventure,  however,  it  appears,  was 
not  yet  quite  subdued,  as  Captain  Barlow  was  after- 
wards sent  out  in  the  year  1720,  by  a  company  of  pri- 
vate persona,  to  seek  a  passage  to  China  through 
some  opening  in  Hudson's  Bay.  The  undertaking 
cost  the  Captain  and  crew  their  lives,  the  ship  having 
been  cast  away  in  about  the  latitude  of  63®  N.  when 
every  person  on  board  perished. 

Another  unsuccessful  attempt  was  made  by  Capt. 
Scroggs  in  1722.  Like  all  the  former  adventurers. 
he  failed  in  accomplishing  his  object. 


^^.^  .-"V 


.4» 


A    NORTH-WEST    PASSAGE. 


197 


In  order  to  rectify  all  the  supposed  errors  of  pre- 
ceding voyagers,  Mr.  Dobbs  took  the  pains  of  collect- 
ing the  amplest  information  on  the  subject,  and  drew 
up  his  views  of  the  matter,  in  which  he  largely  ex- 
amined the  nature  of  the  currents,  tides,  and  the  other 
circumstances  which  appeared  necessary  to  illustrate 
the  subject. 

Mr.  Dobbs  having  communicated  his  information 
to  Capt.  Middleton,  a  gentleman,  like  most  of  his  con- 
temporaries, enthusiastically  involved  in  the  question 
of  the  north-west  passage,  the  undertaking  was  again 
resumed. 

In  order  the  more  eflfectually  to  ensure  success, 
Capt.  Middleton  sailed  from  Churchill  River,  in  Hud- 
son's Bay,  in  the  year  1741,  where,  by  order  of  the 
Admiralty  Board,  he  had  been  ordered  to  winter, 
that,  by  being  so  near  to  the  expected  place,  the 
greatest  possible  advantage  might  accrue  to  the  in- 
quiry. The  ships  employed  on  this  occasion  were  two 
sloops  of  war. 

The  expectations  attached  to  this  undertaking  also 
proved  fallacious,  as  Capt.  Middleton  found  it  impos- 
sible to  proceed  further  north  than  66"  .'JO'  of  north 
latitude,  and  returned  to  England  greatly  disappoint- 
ed, and  determined  to  oppose  a  project  which  he  con- 
sidered visionary  and  impracticable. 

In  consequence  of  the  representations  of  Capt. 
Middleton  on  the  subject,  the  public  opinion  was  much 
divided  ;  yet  so  firmly  was  Mr.  Dobbs  convinced  of 
the  truth  and  strength  of  his  positions,  that  he  hoped 
by  perseverance  to  eilbct  an  object,  for  which,  by 


If 


198 


ATTEMITS  !\I\l)t,  TO  DlSCOVb'Ji 


i. 

'i 
i 

if' 

.  1    ; 
\ 


■.if 


,:i 


much  cherishing,  lie  IjaJ  contracted  an  unconquerable 
aliection. 

One  opinion  seemed,  at  this  time,  very  much  to  aid 
the  purpose  of  Mr.  Dobhs,  and  to  excite  liim  to 
greater  exertion  ;  and  tliat  was,  that  the  failures  of 
Capts.  Scroggs  and  Middleton  were  in  some  measure 
ejlected  l>y  the  endeavours  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany, the  members  of  which,  the  better  to  protect 
their  monopoly  in  the  trade  of  furs,  took  every  means 
to  stiHe  accounts  at  the  factory,  if  such  accounts  ap- 
peared to  throw  light  on  the  subject  of  the  north- 
west passage.  Such  conduct  was  looked  upon  as 
extremely  illiberal,  particularly  after  the  great  ex- 
pense and  danger  which  had  been  incurred,  and  out 
of  which  the  very  existence  of  that  company's  mono- 
poly originally  sprang'. 

Mr.  Dobbs,  supported  in  his  views  with  such  a 
powerful  argument,  laboured  incessantly  in  the  affair ; 
and  the  matter  appeared  of  such  importance,  that  the 
iegislatui-e  offered  a  reward  of  20,000/.  to  such  per- 
sons as  would  succeed  in  penetrating  through  the 
northern  waters  of  tiie  Atlantic,  by  a  westward  course, 
into  tlie  Pacific  Ocean. 

Such  a  bounty,  as  might  be  expected,  became  a 
most  powerful  stimulus  to  exertion,  and  Mr,  Dobbs 
was  gratified  in  seeing  an  expedition  fitted  out,  in  the 
year  1746,  for  the  purpose  of  efTecting  his  favourite 
project. 

Accordingly,  in  the  above  year,  tw®  vessels,  the 
Dobbs  Galley,  commanded  by  Capt.  William  Moore, 
and  the  California,  under  the  command  of  Capt.  Fran- 
ces Smith,  were  fitted  out  with  the  utmost  care  for  the 


M'»'' 


A    NORTH-WKST    PASS  At;  C. 


109 


iffai 


%. 


wf, 


comfort  and  preservation  of  the  pcojjlo.  In  order  to 
afford  the  ijreater  advantage  to  the  occai^ion,  the  cele- 
bratcd  Mr.  Henry  Elhs  was  invited  to  undertake  the 
office  of  agent  to  the  company,  at  whose  expense  the 
outfit  was  made,  which  he  cheerfully  comphed  with, 
and  to  that  gentleman  the  public  is  indebted  for  the 
best  account  ever  before  exhibited  of  the  attempts  ta 
explore  the  north-west  passage. 

Having  received  very  ample  instructions,  from  whicli 
they  were  directed  to  tind,  according  to  the  state  of 
the  tide,  the  most  northerly  cape  of  the  Amei  ican  C(jn- 
tinent,  in  latitude  sixty-two  degrees  north,  the  ships 
proceeded  on  their  voyage,  accompanied  wit'i  the 
wishes  of  thousands  for  their  success.  It  should  be 
also  mentioned,  that  the  captains  of  those  shij>s 
were  cautioned  against  the  policy  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company.  That  this  caution  was  not  unneces- 
sary was  afterwards  proved  ;  for  when  the  Dobbs 
and  Califoinia  were  obliged  to  winter  in  Hudson's 
Bay,  the  governor  threatened  to  use  force  to  repel  the 
intrusion.  However,  by  the  firmness  and  conciliatory 
manner  of  the  persons  intrusted  with  the  expedition, 
the  difficulty  was  got  over,  and  the  ships  were  comfort- 
ably, at  least  safely,  moored  for  the  winter  at  a  con- 
venient place  in  Hays's  River. 

From  this  place  the  voyagers  were  not  able  to 
c'ear,  on  account  of  the  ice,  till  the  beginning  of  the 
ensuing  June.  They  continued  throughout  that  sum- 
m.;r  traversing  the  northern  extremity  of  Hudson's 
Bay,  every  hour  in  hopes  of  finding  the  long  desired 
passage,  but  in  vain  ;  for  after  various  efforts,  counte- 
nanced by  ingenious  and  j)lausible  arguments,  they 


V     1 


( 


*  V 


I 


a 

•/) 

•A:       < 
'■     t.' 


200 


ATTEMPTS  MADE  TO  DISCOVER 


- 


were  obliged  to  return  without  deriving  any  advan- 
tage from  the  voyage,  except  a  more  exact  knowledge 
of  the  shores  of  that  bay,  and  the  manners  of  the  na- 
tives, who  met  them  in  great  numbers  whenever  they 
approached  any  j)oint  of  the  coast.  One  circumstance 
recorded  on  this  occasion  is  worthy  of  note.  Although 
the  Esquimeaux,  as  they  are  called,  are  reputed  sava- 
ges, and  are  represented  as  mischievous  and  sangui- 
nary, yet  to  the  interference  of  one  of  those  savages, 
the  California,  one  of  the  ships,  owed  her  preser- 
vation. 

Having  been  thrown  upon  a  ledge  of  rocks,  and  in 
danger  every  moment  of  going  to  pieces,  the  natives 
came  around,  as  usual,  to  barter,  when  one  old  man, 
perceiving  the  danger  in  which  the  vessel  lay,  pointed 
out  a  deep  passage,  through  which,  when  the  Califor- 
nia floated  on  the  return  of  tide,  they  sailed  in  the  ut- 
most safety,  the  same  old  man  paddling  on  before,  and 
showing  how  to  avoid  the  rocks. 

Notwithstanding  the  failure  of  this  last  expedition 
in  search  of  a  north-west  passage,  still  the  arguments 
in  favour  of  its  practicability  remained  in  sufficient 
force  to  impress  the  minds  of  the  persons  engaged  in 
even  that  expedition,  to  expect  success  at  some  future 
opportunity.  To  this  effect  Mr.  Ellis  has  left  his  opi- 
nion upon  record,  that  the  expected  opening  would  be 
found  somewhere  in  the  north  extremity  of  Hudson's 
Bay,  and  not  in  Davis's  Strait;  but  Mr.  Ellis  had  no 
knowledge  of  that  Strait. 

Since  the  expedition  in  the  Dobbs  and  California, 
the  subject  of  a  passage  to  India  northwR:  us  'lad  been 
frequently  discussed,  but  never  acted  on  until  tha 


W     i 


■*'  ■;'> 


A    NORTH-AVEST    PASSAGE. 


201 


advan- 
(wletlge 
the  na- 
er  they 
Tistance 
IthoMgh 
?d  sava- 
sangui- 
lavages, 
preser- 

,  and  In 
natives 
>ld  man, 
pointed 
Califor- 
i  the  ut- 
)re,  and 

sedition 

^uraents 

ufficient 

;aged  in 

e  future 

his  opi- 

ould  be 

udson's 

had  no 

Hfornia, 
ad  been 
ntil  the 


year  IT?.*},  when  a  voyage  was  undertaken  at  the  re- 
quest of  the  Royal  Soci  ty,  to  try  how  far  navigation 
was  practicable  towan  s  the  North  Pole,  and  whether 
there  existed  a  possil  !ity  of  discovering  a  passage  to 
the  East  Indies,  by  ^  route  through  those  frozen 
regions. 

The  late  Lord  Mulgrave,  then  the  Hon.  Capt. 
Phipps,  and  Capt.  (afterwards  Admiral)  Lutwidge, 
received  severally  the  command  of  the  Race  Horse 
and  Carcass  bomb-ships,  to  carry  this  attempt  into 
execution.  All  the  necessary  means  for  comfort  and 
security  were  provided;  nor  were  the  concerns  for 
scientific  observation  overlooked. 

On  the  2d  of  June  they  sailed  from  the  Nore,  being 
directed  to  steer  by  a  particular  meridian,  until  the 
presence  of  ice  would  make  it  necessary  to  alter  their 
course  to  the  eastward,  and  proceeded  witli  very  little 
obstruction  until  they  reached  above  the  eighty-first 
degree,  where  they  were  driven  by  the  pressure  of 
the  ice  descending  from  the  northward,  into  a  bay, 
and  the  ships  were  apparently  locked  up,  never  again 
to  be  extricated.  Every  exertion  was  made  to  i'vee 
the  ships,  but  in  vain;  for  after  several  days'  ineirec- 
tual  toil  in  that  endeavour,  the  commanders  came  to 
the  sad  resolution  of  abandoning  them,  in  order  to  save 
tho  hves  of  the  men.  The  confusion  attending  such 
a  resolution  is  described  as  extreme,  as  each  individual, 
anxious  for  his  personal  safety,  was  only  concerned 
about  his  own  comforts.  The  boats  were  hoisted 
out,  with  intent  to  drasr  them  over  t!io  ice  until  they 
should  reach  the  open  sea. 

2fi 


'i 


If  i<  t 


.    ^ 


202 


ATTEMPTS    MADE    TO    DISCOVER 


i 


^<li 


El      < 


In  this  dreadful  alternative,  of  remaining  to  perish 
in  that  inhospitable  place,  or  encounter  the  dangers 
of  the  ocean  in  light  open  boats,  one  of  those  "  con- 
vulsions of  nature,"  so  frequently  observed  in  the  icy 
seas,  relieved  them  from  their  miserable  situation. 
The  ice  havir»g  accumulated  against  Spitzbergen,  and 
pressed  against  on  the  western  side  by  the  unbroken 
field  ice,  in  that  direction,  the  current  from  the  north 
at  the  same  time  urging  the  pack  to  the  southward, 
the  ice  began  to  give  way,  and  the  sufferers  hailed 
the  opening  with  joy.  They  saw  the  ships  which 
they  haC  abandoned  beginning  to  move,  and  imme- 
diately hastened  on  board,  in  the  hope  of  deliverance 
from  their  perilous  situation,  and  the  wind  having 
shifted  from  an  easterly  to  a  N.  E.  wind,  which  was, 
in  fact,  the  cause  of  the  "  convulsion  of  nature,"  the 
ice  gave  way  freely  before  the  current,  and  the  ships 
were  set  at  liberty. 

After  this  fortunate  escape  from  a  miserable  death, 
the  voyagers  had  not  much  spirit  to  persevere,  nor 
would  their  endeavours,  it  appears,  have  been  of 
much  avail,  as  the  state  of  the  season  was  not  favour- 
able to  the  enterprise.  The  chart,  made  on  the  oc- 
casion, exhibits  many  lines  of  traverse  made  in  the 
hope  of  finding  the  passage  to  the  Pole ;  but  the  ut- 
most advance  effected  was  no  further  than  latitude 
8l"  36'  N.  somewhat  less  than  Hudson  had  gone  be- 
fore. 

Captain  Phipps  having  explored  thus  far,  and  be- 
ing satisfied  that  a  passage  by  that  way  was  im- 
practicable, determined   to   return  home,    and  both 


4 


,/■ 


A    NORTH-WEST    PASSAGE. 


203 


ships  arrived  in  the  month  of  October  in  the  same 
year. 

In  this  niannei'  ended  the  latest  attc\  t,  havinc^ 
for  its  object  the  determination  of  a  passage  by  the 
north  seas  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  each  undoubtedly 
undertaken  with  the  most  confident  hope  of  success, 
in  the  assurance  that  tlie  errors  of  preceding  trials 
would  enable  the  successor  in  the  enterprise  to  avoid 
such,  and  consequently  to  attain  a  point  of  such  de- 
sirable importance.  Tlie  motives  which  put  the  ad- 
venturers into  action  were  unquestionably  fair  and 
praiseworthy,  and  no  impartial  mind  slioidd  blame 
their  want  of  success.  A  cause  wherein  such  men  as 
Mr.  Briggs,  Mr.  Dobbs,  and  Mr.  Ellis  voluntarily 
were  engaged  must,  from  a  consideration  of  their 
talents,  be  of  the  highest  respectability;  but,  in  the 
present,  we  have  not  alone  their  valuable  suffrage, 
but  that  of  the  whole  nation,  and  of  the  legislature, 
that  the  undertaking  so  long  and  frequently  at- 
tempted should  not  even  yet  be  abandoned  as  hope- 
less. 

Of  the  expedition  now  in  contemplation,  I  must,  in 
truth,  pretend  ignorance  regarding  its  object  and  ar- 
rangement, except  so  far  as  the  reports  of  the  daily 
prints  are  designed  to  inform  the  public.  From  this 
source  only,  I  am  aware  that  some  ships  are  fitted 
out  for  the  purpose  of  exploring  the  long  sought 
passage  to  the  Indian  seas  by  the  north-west.  On 
this  subject  I  beg  leave,  as  an  eyewitness  of  the 
state  of  the  globe,  recently,  in  a  high  northern  degree, 
and  from  a  candid  examination  of  the  real   state   of 


I 


I 
4 


■(' 


204 


ATTEMPTS    MADE    TO    DISCOVER,    &C. 


the  case,  to  submit  a  few  observations  on  the  subject, 
it  being  one  in  which  the  most  important  results  are 
involved,  highly  beneficial  if  successful,  and  ruinous  if 
otherwise. 


20.) 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


OF    THE    EXPEDITION    LATELY     PREI'AllEI). 


A  VITAL  interest  of  Great  Britain  is  t\w  extension 
and  security  of  commerce.  From  tliis  source,  in  a 
meat  measure,  flow  her  internal  grandeur,  national 
renown,  and  wide  dominion  ;  and  every  means  tcndin*; 
to  promote  commerce  is  consequently  encouraged  to 
the  greatest  degree. 

After  tlie  discovery  of  America  by  Columbus,  or 
more  accurately  speaking  by  Cabot,  who  was  the 
first  to  touch  upon  the  continent  of  North  America, 
as  we  have  seen  in  the  sketch  of  iiis  vovaj^e,  sanguine 
expectations  were  entertained  of  a  possibility  of  find- 
ing a  passage  westward  to  the  East  Indies,  by  which 
the  tedious  voyage  by  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  might 
be  avoided ;  and  no  expense  was  spared  in  fitting  out 
ships  from  time  to  time,  to  have  the  expectation 
realized.  New  and  daring  adventurers  came  forward 
in  hopes  of  winning  the  laurels  of  success,  but  it  has 
been,  in  many  instances  unfortunately, — in  all  unsuc- 
cessfully attempted. 

Mr.  Dobbs  calculated  on  finding  the  passage  in 
latitude  62"  N.  which  Mr.  Ellis  proved  to  be  errone- 
ous ;  and  the  latter  with  equal  confidence  fixed  the 
probable  opening  in  the  north  end  of  Hudson's  Bay. 
Baffin,  who  was  a  practical  and  able  navigator,  well 


4 


f 


j  N 


J1 


t 


bLr; ' 


206 


OF  Tin:  r.xPKDiTioN. 


accustomod  to  s.iiiins;  fimoncjst  Ico,  hfitl  acted  previ- 
ous!}' on  otiier  grounds,  and  diiertod  liis  course  up 
Davis's  Strait,  and  althoui^li  he  had  not  ji;ained  the 
point,  yet  he  persisted  in  the  a(;curacy  of  his  p'.iri  till 
liis  death,  wliich  happened  in  the  East  Indies  at  the 
siege  ofOrnnis. 

Hudson,  aware  of  llie  errors  of  his  predecessors, 
tried  the  way  both  to  Spitzhergi  n  and  Davis's  Strait. 
He  did  not  succeed  in  eitlier  ;  the  ice  on  the  eastern 
side  jjrcsenting  an  eternal  obstruction,  and  in  the  lat- 
ter, his  death  prematurely  cut  him  short  before  he 
could  prove  the  superiority  of  his  plans.  It  is  to  be 
regretted  that  a  man  so  well  calculated  for  enterprise 
as  Hudson  was,  did  not  push  forwards  into  Davis's  Strait 
at  once,  and  try  to  solve  this  great  problem.  In  Lord 
IVJulgrave's  expedition  the  ideas  of  Hudson  were  again 
acted  on ;  but  the  advance  effected  was  not  so  great 
even  as  his. 

This  rapid  review  of  the  various  expeditions  is  more, 
in  point  of  plan,  than  with  any  regard  to  the  succes- 
sion of  dates,  and  my  reason  for  so  doing  is  that,  by 
comparing  all  the  former  in  the  manner  in  which  I 
have  done,  the  present  design  of  fitting  out  sliips  for  a 
similar  enterprise  may  be  the  more  easily  understood. 

In  the  former  undertakings,  on  the  subject  of  a 
north-west  passage,  it  had  been  repeatedly  tried  on  the 
American  side,  and  the  failure  of  such  attempts  gave 
an  opportunity  of  urging  an  opinion  that  on  the  Spitz- 
bergen  side  the  design  would  be  found  more  practica- 
ble. The  latter  opinion  was  found  erroneous,  and 
speculation  was,  from  the  repeated  disappointments, 
compelled  to  pause.  .  , 


LATKLY   l'KKI'AKl.l». 


207 


Whilst  tho  tlesoUiting  work  of  war  was  goini^  for- 
ward, the  thont^ht  of  rciiowing  tlio  almost  loi  gotten 
allairorthL'  |)assage  to  India,  hy  the  iioith-wost  sens, 
must  have  appeared  so  unlit  tor  in(|nir},  that  on«:  need 
not  wonder  that  since  the  expechtion  under  (.'apt. 
Phipps,tlie  suhject  was  k»ft  lor  so  many  years  unagi- 
tated.  But  now  that  "  wild  war's  deadly  blast  is 
blown,"  the  minds  of  men  have  heeri  aj^ain  attracted 
to  this  interesting  allair;  and  to  the  honour  of  the  Koy- 
al  .Society  it  is  to  be  recorded,  that  the  resuscitation  of 
the  subject  is  owing  to  their  philosophical  vigilance. 

The  great  intent  of  the  presei»t  undcrtalvirjg,  if  ( 
may  presume  to  judge,  seems  to  be,  to  make  a  grand 
cfi'ort  at  once  in  the  sea  northward  of  Spitsbergen, 
there  to  push  forward  directly  to  the  pole,  and  in 
Davis's  Strait  to  sail  as  far  northward  as  possible,  with 
a  corresponding  intent.  Sailing  to  the  north  pole  has^ 
been  long  a  very  favourite  subject  for  closet  lucu- 
bration ;  and  as  long  as  a  man.  in  such  circumstances, 
chooses  to  amuse  himself  harmlessly,  or  entertain 
his  friends  with  his  elfusions  through  the  medium 
of  a  magazine,  such  pursuits  are  altogether  allowa- 
ble ;  but  where  such  visionary  schemes  are  in  con- 
templation  as  would  mislead  the  public  mind,  in 
the  same  manner  as  the  writer  misleads  himself, 
not  pausing  over  facts,  and  maturely  weighing  their 
consequences,  the  prudent  will  be  careful  how  they 
admit  his  opinions,  however  plausibly  dressed  up. 

This  Utopian  paper-built  plan  of  sailing  to  the  north 
pole  has  been  long  since  defeated  by  the  experience 
of  navigators,  who  penetrated  to  the  eighty-second  de- 
gree on  the  Spitzbcigen  side  ofGreenland.  The  whale 
hunters   have  even  jone  to  the  eii^htv-fuurth  de£:rce. 


208 


OF  THE  EXTEDITIO^f 


\h     . 


i# 


PI 


and  some  even  nmcli  higher,  when  the  season  would 
permit;  whilst,  on  the  other  hand,  many  years  may 
pass  before  such  an  opportunity  will  present  itself, 
the  state  of  the  ice  depending  almost  invariably  on 
the  state  and  nature  of  the  prevailing  winds,  and  not, 
as  is  represented  to  have  occurred  last  season,  on 
some  "  convulsion  of  nature."  Again,  on  the  Davis's 
vStrait  side  of  Greenland,  another  great  difficulty  oc- 
curs, arising  from  the  same  universal  cause,  it  being 
found  impracticable,  during  some  years,  to  ascend 
much  higher  than  Disko,  whilst  in  more  favourable 
seasons  the  ice  clears  away,  and  leaves  the  sea  open 
for  vessels  to  sail  beyond  the  Frow  Islands  in  the 
seventy-third  degree,  and  sometimes  to  the  seventy- 
fourth  degree,  or  as  the  sailors  familiarly  call  it,  the 
Devil's  Thumb.  In  some  seasons,  as  in  the  last,  ships 
can  advance  even  further,  as  I  have  noted  in  my 
Journal  account — to  the  seventy-eighth  degree  nearly, 
luitil  the  icy  continent  spreads  its  locky  front  against 
further  advance  that  way  to  the  Pole. 

Now,  even  were  the  project  of  sailing  to  the  Pole  a 
practicable  one,  is  it  inferred  that  in  event  of  such  a 
thing  being  done,  the  object  of  the  present  voyages 
would  be  accomplished  ?  Allowing  for  an  instant,  that 
a  shin  could  be  brought  to  the  extremity  of  latitude, 
until  the  curiosity  of  the  contriver  of  such  a  voyage 
might  be  gratified  with  a  sight  of  probably  the  polar 
star  in  his  zenith,*  to  what  utility  could  such  a  pro- 
ceeding possibly  lead  ?  Suppose,  at  the  same  time,  for 
the  latter  supposition  is,  at  least,  as  likely  to  be   cor- 


It  is  not  possible  to  see  the  stars  in  high  nortlieni  latitudes  during  the  sum- 


H   fii 


nier. 


LATEL¥    PREPARED. 


209 


rect  as  the  former,  that  there  exists  intei'minablc  ice, — 
such  a  mass  as  the  icy  continent  wliich  I  have  seen  at 
Davis's  Strait,  what  then,  it  may  be  asked,  would  be 
the  proper  and  safe  mode  of  proceeding,  but  to  return 
before  the  season  of  fogs,  frost,  and  storms  should  in- 
volve the  incautious  mariner  in  inevitable  destruction  ? 
it  is  far  from  my  disposition  to  treat  a  matter  of  such 
a  serious  nature  with  levity,  nor  am  I  fond  of  quota- 
tions, but  I  may  be  indulged  in  applying  to  such  a  de- 
sign, under  such  circumstances  as  hang  by  the  above 
suppositions,  the  words  of  some  poet,  who,  describing 
a  great  military  expedition,  says  of  the  commander, 
that  he 

"  Marched  forty  thousand  up  the  hill^ 
Then  marched  them  down  again." 

For  in  what  other  light  can  the  consequences  of  this 
polar  visit  be  viewed  but  in  those  of  absolute  futility  ? 
As  long  as  the  axis  of  the  earth  remains  in  its  present 
angular  position,  so  long  will  ice  be  found  in  those  wa- 
ters, and  so  long  will  navigators  find  obstruction  in 
every  attempt  to  penetrate  by  the  Pole  towards  the 
northern  Pacific. 

That  the  axis  of  the  earth  may  have  undergone 
some  alteration,  can,  I  presume,  be  very  little  a  mat- 
ter for  dispute  ;  and  of  this  some  very  obvious  proofs 
may  be  adduced.  Among  these  the  gradual  decay 
of  icy  accumulation  at  the  poles  is  the  most  remarka- 
ble. For  many  years  navigators  have  been  astonish- 
ed at  the  frequency  and  magnitude  of  the  bergs  of  ice 
islands  met  with  in  high  latitudes,  and  numerous  theo- 
ries have  been  offered  to  explain   their  construction. 

27 


•210 


OP    THE    EXPEDITION 


i   m 


Masters  in  the  Greenland  and  Davis's  Strait  trade,  in 
other  respects  men  of"  close  observation,  have  to  myself 
asserted  that  those  immense  masses  must  have  pro- 
ceeded from  some  great  fresh-water  sea  near  the  Pole. 
Such  persons  had  never  seen  the  ice  continent;  but 
because  experience  had  taught  them  to  find  fresh  wa- 
ter for  the  supply  of  their  ships,  from  pools  to  be  found 
on  the  bergs,  they  of  course  supposed  that  those  mass- 
es could  be  formed  only  in  fresh   water.     In  the  fore- 
going pages,  wherein  ice  formation  is  considered,  the 
fallacy  of  such  an  opinion  has  been  exposed;  and  I 
think  this  place  not  inappropriate  to  mention  it  again, 
lest  any  error  to  that  effect  should  dwell  upon  the 
minds  of  such  persons. 

Now,  by  the  descent  of  those  ice  bergs  into  lower  la- 
titudes, the  great  parent  accumulation  must  be  under- 
going annual  decay  ;  but,  as  it  is  so  rarely  seen,  from 
the  vast  tracts  of  field  ice  that  keep  it  usually  beyond 
view,  little  can  be  said  with  regard  to  its  increase  by 
annual  supply.     Should  I  be  allowed  to  offer  an  opin- 
ion on  the  subject,  I  would  presume  to  say,  that  the 
great  ice  continent  is  suffering  rapid  diminution,  by  the 
bursting  of  the  bergs  from  its  lofty  sides  ;  that  nothing 
is  added  to  the  extent  of  that  continent  at  its  base,  as 
nothing  but  comparatively  thin  field  ice  is  there  form- 
ed, and  that  as  the  bergy  fragments  are  detached  and 
carried  to  the  southward,  it  must  be  evident  that  they 
.nust  have  open  water  for  their  progress  in  that  direc- 
tion. 

That  the  passage  of  those  bergs  southward  is  not  in 
uniform    time,    many    being  recognised  in  particular 
ituations  for  years,  is  arecument  also 


h 


1 


y" 


prove 


It/- 


LATELY  PTIEPARED. 


211 


icas  in  which  they  move  are  not  always  open,  and 
consequently  not  always  accessible  to  shipping;  and, 
with  regard  '.o  this,  the  variableness  of  the  winters  in 
the  north  sliouid  be  taken  into  account,  some  being 
dreadfully  severe,  whilst  others  are  mild  and  fit  to 
be  endured  by  the  human  constitution.  Thus  the  na- 
tive inhabitants  of  Greenland  are  capable  of  enduring 
much  severity  o(  cold,  but  in  very  inclement  winters 
they  are  comparatively  as  sensible  of  extraordinary 
cold  as  Europeans.  Even  the  birds  of  passage  and 
other  migratory  animals  exhibit  similar  sensations. 
But  here  it  is  worthy  of  mention,  that  when  the  win- 
ter in  southern  latitudes  is  known  to  be  severe,  the 
subsequent  or  preceding  winter  in  Greenland  is  mild, 
and  it  is  then  not  unusual  to  see  birds  migrating  to  the 
northward  from  southern  latitudes  to  enjoy  the  milder 
climate  of  Greenland. 

This  evidence  of  severity  of  climate  does  not  there- 
fore depend  on  the  presence  of  ice;  it  must  be  sought 
for  in  afar  different  cause:  not  but  that  where  ice  is 
present  a  greater  degree  of  cold  is  experienced;  but, 
from  my  own  experience,  I  declare  that  the  most  into- 
lerable heat  I  ever  suffered  was  felt  at  a  moment  when 
I  was  standing  up  to  the  knees  in  snow  on  a  wide  field 
of  ice  in  70°  of  N.  latitude,  and  such  a  recollection  is 
impressed  upon  my  mind  from  that  circumstance,  that 
I  should  not  like  to  make  the  experiment  a  second 
time.  The  Uskee  children  sit  and  play  upon  the  snow 
with  tlieir  heads  uncovered  in  the  same  manner  as  Eu- 
ropean children  enjoy  the  pleasures  of  the  grassy 
green;  and  the  adult  Uskee  sleeps  with  tranquillity  and 
comfort  on  the  snow :  so  do  likewise  such  Danes  or 


;ii": 


f « 


If- 


212 


OP    THE    EXPEDITION 


other  foreigners  as  accustom  themselves  from  choice 
or  necctisity  to  the  habits  of  the  natives. 

In  a  design  to  penetrate  the  arctic  regions,  either 
by  the  eastern  or  western  side  of  Greenland,  primary 
attention  must  be  given  to  the  nature  of  the  ice  to  be 
met  with  in  those  very  different  waters.  The  accounts 
of  persons  who  annually  visit  the  seas  around  Spitz- 
bergen,  agree  in  representing  that  island  as  utterly  un- 
inhabitable in  the  winter  months,  and  by  reason  of  this 
apprehension  the  attempt  has  never  yet  been  made. 
If  any  such  ever  yet  occurred,  the  event  is  unknown 
to  me  ;  but  the  consequences  of  such  an  attempt,  even 
arising  from  necessity  in  case  of  shipv^^reck,  may  be 
easily  presumed  on  natural  grounds.  The  land,  like 
that  of  Old  Greenland,  is  mostly  bare  rock,  in  some 
scanty  spots  under  the  influence  of  the  sun,  in  sum- 
mer showing  forth  its  cryptogamic  tenants,  as  if 
the  beauties  of  expended  fructification  could  not  be 
displayed  in  such  a  desert  soil.  Man  is  capable  of  en- 
during much;  but  a  climate  in  80°  could  not  be  suf- 
ficiently genial  to  prolong  life  in  a  place  which  every 
animal  is  known  to  desert  on  the  approach  of  winter, 
and  all  nature  is  clad  in  the  shroud  of  death,  and 
mourned  over  by  the  howling  storm. 

The  shore  of  Greenland,  west  in  its  most  northern 
extremity  as  it  presents  itself  in  74°  N.  is  inhabited^ 
but  whether  throughout  the  winter  is  rather  a  doubt- 
ful circumstance.  The  natives  of  that  country  are  guid- 
ed by  a  simple  but  prudent  policy,  which  affords  little 
information  to  strangers,  regarding  their  economy,  but 
what  can  be  gleaned  by  observation.  In  summer  they 
have  been  seen  so  high  as  that  latitude  ;  but  from  the 


I.ATFXY    PRFPAUIU, 


21:^ 


view  1  have  had  of  the  Linntcnn  hAc^.  even  in  the  l;\te 
univeisally  open  season,  1  am  inclined  to  think  that 
ihey  do  not  dwell  so  lar  to  the  northward  as  those  isl- 
ands arc  situate.  I  rather  think  thev  remove  to  the 
southward  in  winter. 

The  extreme  dani^ors  to  be  encountered  in  those 
high  latitudes,  when  once  the  indications  of  winters 
betting  in  appear,  are  incalculable.  Though  the  field 
ice  be  at  that  period  broken  up.  accumulated  in  parks, 
dispersed,  or  even  dissolved,  still  by  those  several 
changes  the  cold,  increasing  in  proportion  as  the  sun 
moves  (apparently)  to  the  southward,  condenses  the 
vapour  with  which  the  atmosphere  is  loaded,  and  fog- 
gy weather  succeeds,  often  rather  suddenly,  and  in 
such  density  and  extent,  as  to  make  the  situation  of 
a  ship  doubtful  to  the  mariner,  and  if  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  bers:s  the  vessel  is  in  dansrer  of  momentary 
destruction. 

This  part  of  the  subject,  I  am  aware,  is  premature- 
ly introduced,  but  in  the  reader's  indulgence  I  request 
it  may  be  allowed  to  remain,  and  that  the  observation 
be  kept  in  recollection  :  we  shall  see  its  utility  and 
wholesome  application  shortly. 

In  hinting  the  probability  of  a  change  in  the  axis  of 
the  earth  having  taken  place,  I  did  not  intend  that  J 
should  be  understood  to  say  that  such  a  change  was 
sudden,  but  imperceptibly  gradual.  It  is  not  for  my 
humble  pen  to  intrude  on  the  province  of  the  astrono- 
mer ;  but  a  thought  has  suggested  itself  to  my  mind, 
that  the  matter  may  be  determined  simply  by  measur- 
ing the  circle  which  the  earth's  axis  forms  in  revolu- 
tion round  the  polar  star,  when,  if  found  not  exactly 


214 


OP  THE  EXPEDITION 


'V, 


F.r  1- 


the  same  as  heretofore,  the  influence  will  obviouslj 
and  fairly  be,  that  some  change  has  taken  place.  If 
such  a  change  hjis  occurred,  it  will  justly  be  consider- 
ed a  matter  worthy  of  discussion  among  persons  con- 
versant in  such  subjects,  to  determine  whether  the 
centrifugal  action  may  not  aid  in  demolisliing  that  icy 
hoard  in  the  north  of  Greenland,  which,  I  apprehend, 
encompasses  the  north  pole.  I  feel  that  this  sugges- 
tion places  me  on  ticklish  ground ;  I  therefore  beg 
permission  to  transfer  the  subject  to  abler  hands. 

Independently  however  of  the  influence  of  the  sun 
on  the  ice  continent,  or  on  its  huge  bergy  fragments 
during  the  summer  months,  or  even  were  the  prx)ofs 
of  the  suggestion  right  regarding  the  probable  effects 
of  the  centrifugal  force,  another  cause  exists  to  retard 
or  promote  the  formation  of  ice,  (I  mean  the  flat  or  or- 
dinary field  ice,)  and  subsequently  cont  ibute  to  its 
destruction.  The  cause  to  which  1  allude  is  the  ope- 
ration of  the  wind,  which,  in  all  its  changes,  reigns  the 
tyrant  of  the  arctic  world.  To  explain  this  it  will  be 
necessary  to  examine  the  matter  in  a  very  few  points 
only. 

The  reader  has  seen  in  the  course  of  my  Journal, 
from  the  time  of  entering  Davis's  Strait  and  meeting 
with  the  ice,  a  faithful  record  of  every  wind  that  blew, 
and  its  effects  on  the  atmosphere,  as  indicated  hy  the 
thermometer.  That  part  of  the  Journal  is  devested 
of  every  comment,  in  order  that  those  effects  should 
meet  the  eye,  and  satisfy  the  mind  at  once.  The  plan 
has  been  continued  up  to  Disko  in  the  seventieth  degree, 
and  resumed  with  the  progress  of  the  Journal  to  the 
LinnejKaii  Isles,  and  down  again  to  the  seventy-fourth 


kr 


s, 


LATELY  PREPARED. 


2ir» 


degree,  when  the  indications  of  aj3proaching  winter 
commenced. 

I  shall  now  copy  an  extract  from  a  Journal  kept  by 
Crantz,  during  a  winter  in  Greenland.  I  shall  abridge 
it  so  as  not  to  tire  the  reader  with  details. 

September. — Wind  N.  E.  warm;  wind  S.  very  warm ; 
wind  S.  storm. 

Otf/o6cr.-^Wind  N.  E.  snow ;  wind  N.  E.  storm  and 
oold  ;  wind  S.  storm  and  snow. 

JVovember. — Wind  N.  E.  excessively  cold  ;  wind  S. 

%/  ' 

E.  storm  and  snow  dust ;  wind  S.  storm. 

December. — Lightning  ;  afterwards  S.  E.  winds, 

January. — Wind  N.  and  N.  E.  cold  in  earnest ;  more 
mild  in  the  end. 

February. — Wind  N.  and  N.  E.  extreme  cold  ;  then 
rain :  thawing  E.  and  S.  winds ;  cold  and  rain. 

From  the  foregoing  extract  it  may  be  observed,  that 
the  cold  of  winter  sets  in  early  in  September,  (the 
months  being  dated  on  the  first  day  of  each,)  and  that 
the  prevailing  winds  throughout  the  months  of  that 
season  are  E.  N.  or  N.  E.,  and  these  are  connected 
with  the  expressions,  cold,  snow,  storm  and  cold,  ex- 
cessively cold,  storm  and  snow  dust,  excessively  cold, 
and  cold  in  earnest.  The  latter  phrase  the  reader 
must  interpret  for  himself. 

Mr.  Ellis,  who,  as  has  been  mentioned,  remained  dur- 
ing a  winter  in  Hudson's  Bay,  states  that  the  winter 
began  there  in  the  latter  end  of  September,  with  sleet 
and  large  flakes  of  snow.  When  the  wind  was  wes- 
terly or  southerly,  the  cold  was  very  supportable ; 
but  when  the  wind  was  northerly,  or  north-westerly, 
it  was  excessively  keen,  with  drift  snow  as  small  as 
grains  of  sand. 


'^     '.. 


h 

I' 


''    ft 


•  ^  /., 


::  A 


216 


OF    THE    EXPEDITION 


From  a  glance  back  to  my  Journal,  it  will  be  seen 
that  in  the  summer  months,  northerly,  north-easterlv, 
or  easterly  winds,  promote  the  process  o("  freezing-. 
The  extract  from  Crant/Zs  Journal  shows  that  those 
winds  prevail  in  winter,  at  which  time  the  field  ice  is 
formed  in  the  arctic  seas;  and  Ellis's  account  of  nor- 
therly winds  exercising  dominion  and  similar  influence 
ill  Hudson's  Bay,  aids  the  conclusion  that  those  winds, 
continuing  to  blow  during  the  winter,  must  produce 
that  great  field  of  ice  which  extends  across  the  frozen 
seas  properly  so  denominated. 

On  the  contrary,  by  referring  to  the  observations  of 
both  the  above-mentioned  writers,  it  will  be  found 
that  westerly  or  southerly  winds  produce  an  increas- 
ed temperature  in  the  air,  which  leads  to  a  solution  of 
the  ice  in  the  early  summer  months,  more  especially  in 
Davis's  Strait ;  and  the  record  in  my  Journal  is  addi- 
tional evidence  of  this  fact.  So  that  on  those  extremi- 
ties of  the  icy  plain,  the  first  open  spaces  must  evi- 
dently occur  on  the  south-western  side. 

Now,  the  influence  of  the  sun,  as  the  summer  advan- 
ces, taking  effect  upon  the  ice,  disposes  it  to  split ;  and 
the  first  wind  that  agitates  tlie  suiface  of  the  sea,  caus- 
es a  swell,  by  means  of  which  the  whole  is  broken  up. 
Subsequently,  tlio  solution  of  the  ice  helps  to  swell  the 
current,  and  it  only  requires  the  action  of  a  northerly 
or  easterly  wind,  to  drive  the  broken  ice  into  packs, 
which  are  afterwards  carried  down  to  the  southward 
or  westward,  and  there  finally  dissolved. 

The  importance  of  considering  the  state  of  the 
winds  in  the  northern  seas,  and  their  effects,  both  in 
the  winter  and  summer  seasons,  appeared  very  great, 
ibrthe  following  reasons  : 


iLt'W 


LATKLY   PREPARED. 


217 


111  the  iirst  place,  no  vessel  can  navigate  tlhTie  seas 
in  winter  on  account  of  tlie  excosbive  cold  ;  the  siir- 
lacc  of  the  sea  being  covered  over  with  ice.  ISocoiul- 
ly,  because  the  ice  does  not  bei!;in  to  break  up  lill  the 
montli  of  April,  and  sometimes  till  the  latter  end  of 
May,  when  the  wind  blows  from  S.  and  ^V^  And  last- 
ly, becaui-'e  it  is  impossible  for  any  ship  or  other  vessel 
to  proceed  into  high  latitudes,  unless  an  easteily,  nor- 
therly, or  north-easterly  wind  has  previously  occur- 
red, to  clear  away  the  ice,  and  render  the  passage 
northward  free. 

Having  now  examined  the  points  most  material  to 
be  rellected  on,  regarding  the  navigation  of  the  frozen 
seas,  it  appears  a  convenient  and  proper  place  to  of- 
fer a  few  remarks  on  the  precise  subject  of  the  north- 
west passage  through  those  seas,  into  the  North  Pa- 
citic  Ocean,  and  thence  to  Japan,  China,  the  East  In- 
dies, and  also  to  the  west  coasts  of  America. 

The  brief  sketch  of  the  numerous  attempts  made  in 
former  years  to  explore  the  north-west  passage,  which 
has  been  submitted  to  the  reader  in  the  preceding 
pages,  would  appear  rjuite  sufficient  to  warrant  the 
conclusion  that  all  hopes  of  its  practicability,  by  tfic 
way  of  Hudson's  Bay,  vanished  with  the  failure  of  the 
expedition  recorded  by  Ellis  in  the  voyage  of  the 
Dobbs  and  California.  And  yet,  though  that  disap- 
pointment evidently  wxMghed  heavy  on  the  minds  of 
the  adventurers  in  that  expedition,  still  so  strong  was 
the  infatuation  attending  the  project,  that  the  histo- 
rian of  that  failure  takes  leave  of  his  subject  witJi  re- 
commending further  trials  in  Chesterlicld's    inlet  or 

Repulse  Bay. 

28 


:i 


218 


OF    THE    EXPEDITION,  6iC. 


Tlic  discredit  thrown  on  the  plan  by  the  attempts 
to  penetrate  to  India  by  a  north-east  passage,  will  not 
be  brought  forward  as  an  inducement  to  make  any  fur- 
ther exertions  in  that  direction  ;  and  I  have  little 
doubt  on  my  mind,  that  the  design  of  sailing  to  the 
North  Pole,  in  the  intent  of  making  that  a  way 
to  India,  if  now  put  in  execution,  will  not  be  repeated 
soon. 


j.i 


219 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


OF  THE  ONLY    ROUTE    BY     WHICH    SUCCESS    MAY     BE     AT- 
TAINED. 

There  remains  only  one  other  direction  as  yet  unex- 
plored, in  which  to  make  further  attempts  for  this 
great  desideratum  in  navigation ;  and  that  is,  in  Da- 
vis's Strait,  in  a  high  latitude. 

Bylot  and  Baffin  penetrated  very  far  to  the  north- 
ward— as  report  says,  to  the  seventy-eighth  degree  of 
north  latitude.  Those  navigators,  it  seems,  were  desi- 
rous of  proceeding  to  the  North  Pole  also;  however 
that  may  be,  they  changed  their  minds,  and,  proceed- 
ing westward,  discovered  the  land  on  the  American 
side,  where  they  gave  name  to  a  sound  ;  and,  without 
affording  any  better  lights  to  guide  conjecture  by, 
without  exploring  that  sound  or  the  one  to  the  north- 
westward of  it,  they  forthwith  went  to  the  southward, 
equally  unmindful  of  any  opening  along  the  coast,  yet 
occasionally  coming  in  sight  of  land,  and  so  returned 
home. 

Now  Mr.  Ellis  and  others,  who  examined  the  bottom 
of  Hudson's  Bay,  observed  the  current  always  coming 
from  the  northward,  precisely  in  the  direction  of  the 
sound  named  by  Baffm.  and  more  particularly  of  the 


. '» 


r 

I' 


f-i 


220 


Tiir  ONLY  Ronn  uy  u'iiich 


great  sound  beyond  that.  Siirli  a  current  could  easily 
lind  its  way  through  even  very  broken  lands  and  nar- 
I'ow  channels,  a!)(i  have  an  abundant  sup|)ly  from  the 
solution  of  the  arctic  i<e. 

Here  then  is  a  rational  and  ample  field  for  an  accu- 
rate investigation ;  and  if  those  persons  who  are  en- 
gaged to  explore  the  north-west  passage  need  a  strong- 
er impulse  than  the  honour  of  deciding  this  loiig  agi- 
tated question,  or  the  more  solid  splendour  of  a  share 
in  the  golden  reward,  I  shall  ask  their  permission  to 
put  them  in  possession  of  a  fact  of  some  conse(pjcnce 
to  the  attainment  of  success. 

Some  of  the  whale  ships  which  had  proceeded  fur- 
thest north  in  the  course  of  last  sunnner  in  Davis's 
Strait,  as  may  be  seen  in  my  .Inurnal,  got  embarrassed 
amongst  packed  ice,  and,  as  they  were  so  circumstan- 
ced, were  in  extreme  danger.  It  was  necessary  to  wait 
for  the  aid  of  some  friendly  wind  to  extricate  them, 
which,  very  fortunately,  soon  came  to  their  relief. 
Whilst  in  that  situation,  the  master  of  one,  being,  as 
usual,  stationed  in  the  hurricane-house,  near  the  mast 
head,  on  looking  westward  and  northward,  observed 
the  sea  become  clear  to  an  interminable  extent  in  that 
direction,  and  the  surface  soon  after  began  to  swell 
and  rise,  which  are  the  surest  indications  of  an  exten- 
sive sea,  and  these  motions  shortly  cleared  away  the 
pack,  when  no  obstruction  appeared  to  prevent  him 
sailing  as  far  to  the  north-west  as  inclination  might 
urge  ;  but  the  season  being  then  so  far  advanced,  that 
to  remain  any  longer  would  be  dangerous  beyond  cal- 
culation, and  his  oath  being  in  the  way  of  research,  as 
well   as  the  whales   having  disappeared. — all    these 


h^' 


I    I  f 


SUCCESS    MAY     BF,    ATTMM.U. 


221 


that 

cal- 

h,  ai» 

hese 


? 


considerations  were  sufTicirnt  to  compel  his  iiunicdialo 
rctiiin.  Oil  this  fact  I  sir.ill  make  no  coifiuicnt  liiilher 
than  |)iittiii<>-  a  short  (jiieiy. 

Jlad  the  commandtM'  of  a  ship  been  so  circumstanc- 
ed as  to  liave  a  door  of  such  an  inviting  description 
thrown  oj)en  l)efoie  liim  to  tlie  north-west,  and  that  in 
the  seventy-sixth  degree  of  norlih  latitude,  in  the  mid- 
dle of  Jul),  wlien  the  foi^s  were  ahout  to  set  in,  would 
he  think  it  adviscahle  to  proceed  to  iho  north-west, 
and  take  cliance  of  the  casualties  of  ice  di'iven  thither 
before  him,  and  prol.ably  covcrinj^  the  coast,  which  by 
embarrassing  his  progress  might  comj)ol  liim  to  remaiii 
longer  than  he  otherwise  vi'onid   wish  ? 

1  may  take  the  liberty  of  stating,  moreovei-,  that  in 
consequence  of  the  ice  descending  from  the  northwanl 
in  the  beginning  of  the  season,  and  driving  chiefly  to 
the  south-west,  any  attemj>t  at  pcneirating  to  the  noith- 
west  by  that  course  is  considered  quite  impracticable 
and  extremely  dangerous  ;  so  that  the  east  <:oast  of 
James's  bland  is  never  seen  by  navigators  going  oiil, 
and  in  latter  years  seldom  by  those  returning  honn- 
Avards. 

The  opportunities,  then,  which  1  have  had  of  observ- 
ing the  actual  state  of  the  arctic  seas,  have  produced 
on  my  mind  a  conviction  that  it  is  practicable  for  ships. 
to  find  a  passage  fj-om  tlie  Atlantic  into  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  by  the  shores  of  North  America,  and  that  that 
passage  is  to  be  elFected  above  the  seventy-tourtii  de- 
gree of  north  latitude.  Tile  vaiious  appearance^  of 
the  ice  found  in  those  seas,  and  the  eliccts  produced 
from  congelation,  are  of  eminent  importance  in  tlie 
consideration  of  the  present  subject,  as  all  (he  discD- 


[.'  1  I 


222 


THE    ONLV    UOl  TK    BV    WHICH 


veries  hitherto  made  in  the  frozen  regions  have  termi- 
nated with  the  ice. 

In  Cooke's  voyages  it  appears,  that  the  state  of  the 
ire  forbado  an  approach  to  tlie  North  Pole  much  above 
j^ehring's  Strait.  To  this  point,  I  wish  to  apply  a  few 
observations.  Open  sea  is  always  favourable  to  the 
sokition  of  ice,  from  the  great  agitation  of  the  surface, 
ice  being  invariably  formed  in  a  state  of  rest.  In  sup- 
port of  this  the  reader  is  requested  to  refer  to  a  fact 
stated  in  that  part  of  the  observations  which  regard- 
ed ice  formation  : — whenever  the  ship  came  within  an 
extent  of  recent  congelation  a  calm  ensued.  That 
such  could  not  be  accidental,  was  evident  from  its  in- 
variable recurrence  in  similar  circumstances,  and  that 
too  when  the  presence  of  land  was  so  remote  as  not  to 
aid  in  producing  any  change  of  wind.  It  certainly 
appeared  to  me  an  unusual  occurrence,  that  a  vessel 
under  full  but  easy  way,  should  be  at  once  arrested  in 
her  progress  by  causes  not  obvious  to  common  view  ; 
yet  such  was  the  case  whenever  the  ship's  course  lay 
t!irou<j:h  an  extent  of  nascent  ice. 

It  has  been  also  observed,  that  the  water  surface  in 
tlie  vicinity  of  field-ice  is  usually  tranquil,  and  there- 
fore dangerous  to  ships  in  case  of  a  strong  wind  press- 
ing on  the  distant  extremity  of  the  field,  or  any  other 
cause,  such  as  currents,  projecting  rocks,  or  heavy 
beros  ur£ring:  forward  the  mass.  In  such  a  case,  it 
must  be  obvious  the  danger  chiefly  arises  from  the 
apparent  security,  as  the  inexperienced  would  consi- 
der the  tranquillity  of  his  station  to  be  indicative  of 
the  a])sence  of  dan2:er  ;  but  should  the  ice  bejrin  to 
move,   a  vessel  so  circumstanced  must  drift  before   it. 


m 


SUCCESS    MAY    BE    ATTAINED. 


Mew  ; 
3C  lay 


and  have  to  encounter  the  hidden  dangers  of  the  t]e('[>, 
or,  in  the  event  of  a  gale,  to  meet  t!ie  awful  conse- 
quences of  the  ice  becoming  packed,  when,  if  sur- 
rounded by  those  heavy  fragments,  there  is  scarcely 
a  chance  of  escape.  The  sailors  accustomed  to  those 
situations  are  very  expert  in  determining  the  course  of 
the  packed  ice,  and  measure  with  singular  accuracy 
the  physical  pressure  of  each  piece  likely  to  come  in 
contact  with  the  ship.  Where  an  open  space  in  tlic 
pack  appears  sufficiently  large  to  admit  of  mana'uvriiig 
the  vessel,  it  is  usually  entered,  until  some  opening  is 
observable.  Such  an  open  sjjace  is  called  a  liok'  of 
water,  in  the  language  of  the  whale  hunters. 

In  the  works  of  writers  who  have  described  the 
Alps,  mention  is  made  of  extensive  beds  of  ice  occu 
pying  the  higher  valleys  among  those  mountains. 
Those  are  denominated  glaciers,  which  aj)|)eais  to  be 
an  appropriate  terra.  Though  remote  from  the  sub- 
ject in  question,  with  regard  to  distance,  the  iulroduc- 
tionofthe  Alpine  glaciers  in  this  place  may  be  allow- 
ed, and  the  brevity  of  my  observation  will  help  (o  ex- 
cuse the  introduction.  The  Alps,  on  account  oi  tiiei'- 
great  elevation,  are  mostly  covered  with  snow,  uliich 
in  the  summer  months  is  dissolved,  and  carried  down 
to  the  valleys.  The  valleys  are  met  with  in  diilorent 
elevations,  for  which  reason  the  temperature  oi  those 
places  is  at  all  times  different.  The  dissolved  snow. 
under  such  different  degrees  of  temperature,  must  be, 
in  the  more  elevated  valleys,  converted  into  ice,  which, 
in  turn,  is  again  reduced  to  a  fluid  state  as  the  atmos- 
phere becomes  more  heated  ;  and  hence  the  origin  of 
those   many   streams,   torrents,  lakes  and  navigable 


>  1  V!. 


oo 


21 


THE    ONLY    ROUTE    BY    WHICH 


'•if 


^1! 


rivers  wliicli  derive  their  tribute  from  Alpine  sources. 
It  is  not,  Iiowever,  always  the  case  that  the  dissolv- 
ed ice  and  snow  can  reach  the  lower  situations  with- 
out diminution.  Many  of  tliose  valleys  are  confined 
pits,  the  solid  surrounding  rocks  affording  no  outlet 
lor  t!ie  accumulated  waters,  which  being  so  confined, 
and  in  a  great  elevation,  invariably  become  ice,  which 
is  rarely  afterwards  dissolved.  Each  succeeding 
year  increases  its  volume,  and  the  glacier  is  formed. 
Such  is  the  progress  of  glacier  ice  in  Switzerland. 
There  it  is  known  to  lie  only  in  elevated  situations  ; 
but  not  having  at  hand  a  scale  of  such  elevations,  I 
must  request  the  reader  to  make  that  very  needful 
reference. 

In  the  southern  parts  of  Greenland,  the  elevations 
are  much  more  considerable  than  the  more  northern. 
In  those  parts  therefore  glacier  ice  may  have  been 
seen ;  such  probably  as  has  shut  up  the  western  ex- 
tremity of  Frobisher's  Strait,  and  rendered  that  way 
no  longer  passable  to  navigators.  Indeed  there  is  one 
very  remarkable  place  on  the  western  coast  of  Green- 
land, which  the  Danes  call  the  Eis  Blink,  and  which  I 
have  every  reason  to  think  is  nothing  more  than 
a  monstrous  berg,  which  by  some  "  revolution  of  na- 
ture," such  as  a  contrary  wind,  and  the  great  in- 
draught which  is  known  to  exist  on  those  shores,  had 
many  years  since  been  forced  into  that  situation. 

In  Greenland  further  north,  from  Reef  Koll  to  the 
great  basaltic  Disko,  the  land  becomes  remarkably 
low  and  rounded,  few  mountains  there  appearing. 
The  existence  therefore  of  glacier  ice  cannot  be,  in 
those  places,  probable.     The  intersections  of  Green- 


*'\\ 


St'CCESS    MAY    BE    ATTAINED. 


2'2ri 


land  by  its  numerous  internal  waters  are,  however, 
difficult  of  investigation  from  the  fiords,*  soimds,  and 
other  entrances  being  blocked  up  by  the  bergy  ice, 
which  obstructs  the  passage  of  such  fioKI,  or  packed 
ice,  as  descends  from  the  internal  waters  ;  for  it  may 
be  received  as  an  axiom,  that,  in  extensive  seas,  there 
is  the  readiest  solution  of  ice. 

From  Disko  to  the  northward  the  land  gradually  be- 
comes less  elevated,  an  odd  eminence  occasionally  ap- 
pearing above  the  descending  line,  until  the  most  re- 
mote lands  are  buried  in  the  polar  ice,  which  beyond 
the  Linn?can  Isles  is  seen  to  out-top  the  rocky  promi- 
nences. 

From  what  cause  the  accumulation  of  polar  ice  has 
arisen  is  extremely  difficult,  if  not  impossible,  to  Jeter- 
mine.  The  depression  of  the  earth's  axis,  during  the 
great  change  which  gave  the  globe  its  present  appear- 
ance, might  be  assumed  as  a  prevailing  cause.  The 
presence  of  the  sun,  were  there  no  declination,  would 
extend  a  steady  degree  of  temperature  towards  both 
poles,  and  would  in  that  cose  forbid  the  great  accunni- 
lation  of  ice,  which,  during  t!ic  monllis  of  winter,  is  at 
present  known  to  occur. 

To  the  same  cause,  if  the  supposition  be  admitted. 


*  Fiord,  pronounced  feiior,  is  tlie  space  bctwrcn  tw  o  jirojcclin?;  nioiintMins, 
the  boKoni  buins^  nHrroueras  the  hasos  of  (lie  prouKHiturii'^  ilchCfnil  in  the  sea, 
into  which  they  di|)  sonielinies  steejily,  but  ^reueially  otherwiM?,  us  has  b^cn  de- 
termined by  soundings,  which  are  alwavs  more  shullow  near  the  rock;- than  more 
remotely;  so  that  thejuttinj;  base  ol'liic  rocii  on  both  side- may  lie  distinctly 
traced  bv  sounditig  towards  the  middle  of  the  fiord.  Tin  re  i^  ^^eneially  shoal 
waterora  rocky  reef  in  the  nci;';hbourhood  of  a  liord,  whi>h  may  be  easily  dis- 
tinguished from  the  other  inlets  by  tlie  hind  hchin  vi-ihh'  at  its  inner  extremity, 
and  from  a  bay  by  its  very  narrow  appearance.  Il  is  tliciefore  ad>istid.le  to 
keep  a  ijood  offing  wlien  near  any  of  tho,-e  tion!-. 

20 


. ^-*'.-  -•J'(..< 


226 


HOW    SUCCESS    MAY    BE    ATTAINED. 


the  destruction  of  the  polar  icy  continent  or  glacier 
may  be  assigned — the  operation  of  the  sun's  rays,  and 
also  the  centrifugal  action  of  the  earth  aiding  that  ope- 
ration. Under  this  double  influence,  the  immense 
bergs  are  rent  ofTfrom  the  original  mass,  borne  south- 
wards by  the  prevailing  current,  and  occasionally 
urged  by  the  wind,  and  seldom  pass  the  latitude  of 
Staten  Hook  before  they  become  finally  dissolved.  Now 
if  this  destruction  go  on  for  some  years  longer,  the  icy 
continent  must  at  length  disappear  ;  such  immense 
fragments  being  annually  torn  from  its  sides,  and  no  in- 
crease supplying  their  place,  those  seas  will  become 
open  at  an  earlier  period  than  heretofore,  and  conse- 
quently more  generally  and  safely  navigable.  In  that 
event,  which  is  predicted  in  the  genuine  spirit  of  a  con- 
viction of  its  accuracy,  and  I  would  add  certainty,  it 
may  not  be  irrelevant  to  add  some  observations  re- 
garding Disko  Island,  as  it  may  hereafter  stand  con- 
nected with  the  concerns  of  British  commerce. 


ii: 


221 


cier 
and 
jpe- 
;nse 
utli- 
ally 

B    of 

I  icy 
3nse 
oin- 
ome 
nse- 
that 
con- 

y»it 

5  re- 
con- 


CHAPTER  IX. 

OF    THE    IMPORTANCE    OF  DISKO  IN    THE  CASE  OF  SVCCES>. 

The  island  of  Disko  is  of  great  elevation,  as  I  have 
said,  being  more  than  6000  feet  perpendicular  above 
the  sea  level,  on  its  southern  side,  which  at  Fortune 
Bay  lies  in  the  latitude  of  69'*  10'  N.  but  runs  into  a 
low  point  at  its  northern  extremity,  in  the  JVlalleo-at 
Sound,  which  is  about  the  latitude  70"  !(]'  N.  measur- 
mg  in  its  greatest  length  more  than  one  nautical  de- 
gree. The  general  form  of  the  island  is  triangular. 
The  great  body  of  the  land  of  Disko  is  formed  of  ba- 
saltic columns  of  irregular  pile,  but  sufficiently  marked 
to  decide  their  ciiaracter.  The  southern,  interior  and 
western  parts,  particularly  the  latter,  are  lofty  table 
land,  with  fine  deep  harbours,  which  are  safe  retreats 
for  shipping  when  the  ice  begins  to  reak  up  and  de- 
scend to  the  southward,  except  wlien  southerly  or 
westerly  winds  happen  to  blow  ;  but  against  any  dan- 
ger in  those  cases  a  very  little  care  would  alTord  am- 
ple security.  On  the  southern  extremity,  from  Fortune 
Bay  to  Lievely,  there  arc  fine  situations  for  harbours; 
but  being  at  present  in  a  state  of  nature,  they  present 
little  to  attract  the  notice  of  a  cursory  visiter.  To- 
wards the  eastward,  the  land  declines  from  the  west- 
ward and  northward  until  at  Flat-foot  Shore  it  imper- 
ceptibly becomes  strand.     On  the  north-eastern  side, 


228 


IMPORTANCE    OF    DISKO 


-J  ', 


7  P': 


the  shore  is  skirted  with  very  lofty  peaks,  some  ot 
which  aie  said  to  stielch  their  shadow  across  the 
W  aygat  Sound,  which  is  in  one  place  twenty-five 
miles  over.  Of  that  circumstance,  however,  I  am  not 
certain  ;  hut  one  of  those  peaks  is  visible  above  the 
greater  part  of  the  westoin  side  of  Disko. 

To  the  sontlnvard  of  Disko  lies  South-east  Bay  ; 
within  which  arc  seen  some  groups  of  low  islands. 
Among  these  the  western  islands  are  situate  at  the 
south-western  extremity,  and  are  inhabited  very  nu- 
merously by  Uskees.  The  whole  islands  are  also 
much  inhabited  by  the  same  people  ;  and,  at  the  lat- 
ter place,  the  Danish  ofilcer  who  superintends  the 
colony  is  usually  resident,  hut  occasionally  removes  to 
Lievely.  The  Dog  Islands,  Green  Islands,  and  all  the 
other  islands  sprinkled  along  the  coast  around  South- 
cast  Bay,  are  peopled  with  Uskees,  and  are  their 
favourite  residence. 

It  is  not  usual  to  find  South-east  Bay  covered  with 
the  ice  after  the  end  of  June  ;  but  it  frequently  is  clo- 
sed until  about  the  beginning  or  middle  of  that  month. 
In  the  latter  part  of  the  summer,  after  the  whalers 
have  departed,  it  is  usually  quite  clear  of  ice,  and,  in 
the  months  of  August  and  September,  the  numbers  of 
whales  that  resort  to  this  bay,  on  their  return  to  the 
southward,  are  represented  to  be  incredible.  The 
Waygat  Sound,  in  the  latter  season,  is  also  frequently- 
open,  and  more  certainly  after  an  easterly  or  north- 
easterly wind  has  been  for  some  time  blowing,  and  is, 
in  such  case,  a  safe  and  commodious  way  for  vessels  to 
proceed  northward.  The  Mallegat  Sound,  between 
Hare  Island  and  Disl^o,  is  not  safe,  on  account  of  thp 


IN    THE    CASE    OF    SUCCESS. 


220 


thp 


dangerous  rocks  which  he  numerously  ucnr  tlic  laud 
on  both  sides.  North-east  Bay,  and  Jacob's  Bay,  or 
Bight,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  are  principal  retreats 
for  the  whale,  which  in  some  years  is  killed  there  in 
great  number.  Bergy  Bay,  to  the  northward  of  Ja- 
cob's Bay,  is  dangerous  on  account  of  the  groat  num- 
ber of  ice  bergs,  which  are  carried  in  thith.cr  by  a 
strong  current  running  constantly  round  the  point 
called  >^'ac  ook,  and  are  the"p  «ho'\letl,  and  remain 
in  their  posihuas  for  years,  i^/ack  Hook  is  a  low 
bluff  head,  with  table  summit,  from  which  circumstance 
it  is  easily  distinguished.  For  the  remaining  parts  of 
the  coast  northward,  I  beg  leave  to  refer  to  the  second 
part  of  my  Journal. 

From  South-east  Bay,  many  passages  to  the  interi- 
or waters  of  Greenland  are  know'u  to  exist  ;  but  from 
many  causes,  they  remain  unexplored.  To  the  supiiie- 
ness  of  the  few  Danes  residing  in  those  places  that 
neglect  is  to  be  attributed.  On  being  sent  into  those 
parts  they  sink  into  an  habitual  languor,  more  re- 
markable than  even  the  characteristic  tranquillity  of 
the  natives.  Such  habits  unfit  the  Danes  for  much  ex- 
ertion, and  they  consequently  drag  out  the  years  of 
their  banishment  in  a  state  of  inactivity  ;  whilst  even 
such  of  that  nation  as,  from  their  superior  station, 
have  an  interest  in  remaining,  scarpely  do  more  than 
collect  the  scanty  superfluities  of  the  natives,  for  which 
some  trifling  articles  are  given  in  exchange.  The  na- 
tives moreover,  intent  only  on  their  seal  hunting  and 
other  aquatic  pursuits,  if  successful,  are  totally  re- 
gardless of  the  future,  and  give  themselves  no  concern 
about  nautical  discoveries.     To  the  whale  hunters,  as 


!  I 


2.iO 


IMPORTANCE    OF    DISKO 


at  present  bound  by  law,  accident  only  can  afl'ord  an 
opportunity  of  knowing  any  thing  of  the  matter. 
From  one  of  the  latter  i  succeeded  in  extorting  by 
some  address  the  following  communication,  which  he 
said  he  had  received  from  an  old  master  in  the  Davis's 
Sti'ait  trade. 

"  In  Makkelik  Quit  there  is  an  entrance  to  a  crcat 
inland  .sea.  So  also  there  is  a  leadins:  from  Jacob's 
Bight,  probably  into  the  same,  through  which  two  fri- 
gates, supposed  to  be  English,  endeavoured  to  pene- 
trate ;  but  one  had  been  involved  in  such  difficulties 
that  she  never  returned,  and  was  lost  with  all  on 
board.  The  name  of  one  was  the  Active,  Actinix,  or 
Action.  In  North-east  Bay  a  passage  of  the  same 
kind  is  also  known  for  more  than  forty  miles  inwards. 
In  the  latter  passage  the  islands  were  observed  to  lie 
in  some  places  not  more  than  a  mile  distant  from  each 
other,  but  lying  more  remotely  further  inwards,  when, 
at  the  distance  above  <entioned,  the  view  was  open 
sea  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach." 

If  the  above  information  be  correct,  which  I  have 
little  reason  to  doubt,  from  the  singular  value  set  upon 
the  communication  by  the  person  who  made  it,  as  well 
as  the  great  unwillingness  evinced  on  the  occasion,  it 
may  hereafter  serve  some  important  purpose,  for  which 
end  I  have  inserted  the  matter  nearly  in  the  terms  in 
which  I  received  it. 

The  expectations  attached  to  the  expedition  at  pre- 
sent preparing  to  go  into  Davis's  Strait,  lead  me  to 
hope  that  the  information  which  I  have  given  in  the 
foregoing  pages,  regarding  the  ice  met  with  in  those 
waters,  will  be  found  useful  to  those  who  proceed  with 


i:      THE    CASF,    OF    M  (  (HS^. 


•z:.] 


that  expedition.  I  am  not  less  anxious,  however,  to 
be  heard  attentively  on  the  present  point,  naniciy,  ilu- 
importance  of  Disko,  as  connected  with  tiie  events  aris- 
ing from  the  expedition. 

I  would  at  once  propose  that  the  Briti.-h  L;ovrnunont 
should  get  possession  of  the  island  of  Disko,  and  all 
the  lands  adjacent  to  south-east.     The  present  wretch- 
ed state  of  that  colony  renders  it  ol"  little  valne  (o  Den- 
mark ;  but  in  the  hands  of  Great  Britair)  it   v»ould  be 
rendered  of  great  importance  in  many  points  of  view. 
On  account  of  the  insignificant  appearance  of  the  j)lace, 
as  it  now  stands,  government  would  lind  it  not  dKiicull 
to  obtain  possession  of  it  ;  and   in  tiie   course  of  one 
summer  it  might  be  placed  ia  such  a  state  of  respecta- 
bility and  comfort,  as  would  enable  an  English  colony 
to  attach  itself  to  such  a  residence  ;  and  in  the  event 
of  the  strait  becoming  more  frequented,  in  conscfjiiciuc 
of  the  discovery  of  the  north-west  passage,  it  is  indis- 
pensably requisite  that  a  proper  force  should  be  es- 
tablished, either  at  Lievely,  or  some  of  the  Island.s  irj 
South-east  Bay,  to  be  at  hand  for  the  protection    of 
British  commerce,  in  case  of  any  future  misunderstand- 
ing with  other  states.     When  the  advantages  of  such 
a  design  come  to   be  known  sufficiently,  this  plan  will 
appear  the  more  necessary. 

The  situation  of  Lievely  is  peculiarly  adapted  for 
the  establishment  of  such  a  colony,  as  it  possesses  a 
snug  harbour,  naturally  protected  by  iskmiis  on  the 
west  side,  and  the  high  rock  of  Disko,  called  the 
Black  Land,  which  overhangs  the  sea  to  the  eastward 
of  the  harbour,  and  defends  it  from  the  ice.  The  skirt 
of  Disko  on  the  south  side  is  low,  in  comparison  with 


..*.^.-S- 


2,']2 


nil'OllTANf  E    OF    DISKO 


» 


I     ' 


1V 


the  ffcnenil  elevation  of  the  mountain,  wliich  rises  al- 
most  ill  a  perpendicular  front,  and  at  an  average  dis- 
tance of  two  miles  from  the  sea  to  where  the  rock 
rises  most  abruptly.  The  approach  to  the  bold  rock 
from  the  shore  is  extremely  irre<;uliir,  and  shelving  in 
extensive  beds,  bearino-  a  rude  resemblance  to  roads 
unskilfully  hewn  from  the  ror  ky  ascent.  This  low 
broken  skirt  extends  nearly  from  the  Black  Land  to 
Fortune  Bay,  and  consists  entirely  of  bare  rock,  in 
many  places  covered  with  lichens  of  beautiful  colours, 
and  interspersed  with  a  timid  willow,  (salix  reticulata,) 
Avhich  cieeps  along  the  face  of  the  rock,  unable  to 
rise  belore  the  bleak  and  withering  winds.  Numerous 
alpine  plants  are  exposed  when  the  sun  has  dissolved 
the  snow,  but  these  experience  but  a  transient  exist- 
ence, and  can  be  collected  only  during  a  short  period 
in  summer. 

At  that  season  the  sun  exerts  surprising  force  along 
this  space,  in  which  Lievely  is  of  course  included. 
The  accumulation  of  heat  is  then  so  great  that  all  ve- 
getable life  is  rapidly  evoived,  and  the  situation  of 
Lievely  becomes  pleasant.  The  whale  ships  having 
already  arrived,  or  proceeded  to  the  northward,  in- 
crease the  comfort  of  the  natives  by  the  coarse  arti- 
cles which  they  give  them  in  exchange  for  their  seal- 
skin dresses,  and  all  becomes  bustle,  activity,  and  en- 
ioymcnt.  It  is  then  also  the  Greenlander  experiences 
that  happiness  which  attaches  him  to  his  dreary  home, 
which  he  would  not  exchange  for  such  useless  luxu- 
ries  as  warmer  climates  could  alFord.  Such  he  wants 
not,  nor  covets,  unless  in  the  pernicious  consequence 
of  havinsr  been  enticed  to  know  them.'    A  curious  cir- 


IN    THE   CASE    OF    SUCCESS. 


23a 


in- 


cumstance  attends  even  a  temporary  residence  in  those 
regions.  Any  person  who  has  once  visited  those 
places  feels  an  unaccountable  desire  to  see  them  again, 
until  frequent  visits  render  it  almost  habitual.  For 
this  reason,  I  am  inclined  to  think  that,  were  a  Britisli 
colony  settled  there,  enjoying  the  superior  comforts 
which  they  could  command  every  year  by  the  return 
of  the  whalers,  in  a  few  years  the  people  would  be 
not  only  reconciled  to  their  situation,  but  even  attach- 
ed to  the  place. 

If  well  provided,  and  propcily  trained  for  the  pur- 
pose, the  colonists  might,  in  the  latter  season,  kill  so 
many  whales  as  would  enable  them  to  amass  large 
fortunes,  when,  if  they  chose,  and  the  necessary  regu- 
lations would  permit,  they  might  return  to  spend  the 
rest  of  their  life  in  aiBuence  and  case.  This  is  by  no 
means  an  idle  speculation,  as  I  am  certain  many  of  the 
persons  now  engaged  in  the  whale  trade  would  be 
found  ready  to  embrace  such  a  proposal,  and  furnish 
active  and  skilful  liands  to  take  advantage  of  the  after 
season,  if  secure  and  comfortable  accommodations 
during  winter  were  provided. 

.'•'•lips  going  out  in  the  spring  could  convey  the  ne- 
cessary lALterials  of  wood  and  other  articles  for  build- 
ii  I  V  '■'  ay  of  ballast,  and  carry  also  such  clothing 
a-  ;>..j-  isions  as  would  be  wanted  at  the  colony,  tak- 
h  :k    the   produce  oftJic  whale  in  return.     Or 

V  0  Newfoundland  made  an  entrepot  between  the 
c  !onv  and  hofue,  more  than  one  voyage  every  sum- 
t'.'j  .liifj-ht  be  effected  between  Disko  and  Newfound- 
land,  *^'hi^•h,  a^ording  greater  facilities,  would  add 
much  to  the  importance  of  the  new  colony.     Here 

30 


■A     J 


231 


liMruUlA:\'(  L    OF    DIsRO 


M 


% 


however  I  deem  it  adviseable  to  guard  against  \Uv 
mischiefs  of  monopoly,  not  to  sulfor  a  few  interested 
individuals  to  take  advantage  of  that  station,  as  such 
a  proceeding  would  defeat  the  valuable  consequences 
arising  from;  the  passage  by  the  north  west,  or  rather 
by  the  arctic  shores  of  North  America.  Government, 
by  holding  the  place  in  possession  for  the  common  be- 
nefit of  all,  will  thereby  make  it  a  national  concern, 
and  the  public  at  large  will  benefit  by  the  measure. 

The  stone  materials  forbuilding  are  so  easily  raised, 
as  they  lie  loosely  on  each  other  in  basaltic  form,  that 
in  the  course  of  an  incredibly  short  time  a  respecta- 
ble fortress  might  be  o  roc  tod  in  any  point  the  most 
eligible,  at,  or  near  Lievely,  as  may  be  determined  by 
a  competent  ciiginocr.  Those  materials  will  not  re- 
quire much  labour  to  bring  them  into  shape,  and  may 
in  the  fubt  instance  be  placed  in  their  natural  form, 
and  the  building  can  afterwards  be  beautified  in  pro- 
portion as  the  advantages  of  the  colony  may  be  known. 
By  that  means  a  mole  may  be  easily  extended  across 
the  islands  at  Lievely,  which  will  serve  both  as  a  mili- 
tary defence,  and  a  shelter  for  vessels  which  may  hap- 
pen to  remain  there  for  the  winter.  A  similar  work 
will  protect  that  little  harbour  on  the  eastward;  it  will 
then  afford  anchorage  for  fifty  ships,  and  be  a  secure 
retreat  in  every  season  when  the  ice  is  broken  up. 

The  situation  of  Lievely  is  commanded  only  from 
the  lofty  summit  of  Disko,  which,  from  its  great  ele- 
vation, is  nearly  inaccessible,  and  can  be  approached 
only  from  the  south-eastern  extremity  at  Flat-foot 
sliore ;  and  to  thia  latter  place  an  enemy  could  not  ven- 
ture to  approach  without  being  seen  from  Lievely, 


IN  TiiK  r  Asr  OP  surrEss. 


2;tj 


and  coiintcractod  in  his  plans.  A  sinj^lc  observation 
will  decide  that  point.  f)urin«(  the  smnmer  nionth'< 
there  is  no  night  at  Disico,  as  every  person  in  the  least 
acquainted  with  the  glol)e  must  kriow.  During  that 
period  therefore  the  regular  succession  of  guard  could 
not  fail  to  detect  the  presence  of  any  hostile  force,  and 
precautions  could  be  easily  taken  to  render  anv  at- 
tempt unavailing. 

DIsko,  therefore,  becomes  Important  In  consideration 
of  its  capabilities  of  affording  a  comfortable  residence 
during  the  winter,  at  which  time  the  N.\V.,N.,  md  N.E. 
winds  prevail,  against  the  severity  of  which  a  colony 
fixed  at  Lievely  would  be  completely  sh  ^tered  ;  and 
if  well  housed  with  plenty  of  fuel,  coal  .x?ing  f  md  ir^ 
the  lands  to  the  eastward  of  South-east  Hav.,  tl  ^  busi- 
ness  of  casking  the  whale  fat  (blubber"^  niiglu  well  be 
carried  on  during  the  winter,  and  die  ships  made 
ready  for  sea  at  the  first  opening  o(  the  ice.  Besides, 
as  a  convenient  depot  for  goods  conveyed  by  ships 
sailing  by  the  new  passage,  and  carrying  on  an  inter- 
course with  the  Pacific  Ocean,  the  im^>ortancc  of  Dis- 
ko  becomes  incalculably  great. 

When  viewed  in  this  regard,  aiid  its  facilities  duly 
considered,  it  will  be  evident  that  the  earliest  oppor- 
tunity should  be  taken  to  secure  the  possession  of  a 
place  of  such  importance  i  »  A\e  British  interests.  In 
fact  a  due  regard  for  the  concerns  of  expected  com- 
merce with  the  Indian  nations  by  the  northern  route, 
will  demand  the  por  session  of  that  particular  station 
for  the  proper  protection  of  that  commerce,  as  it  may 
be  confidently  asserted  that  both  the  American,  and 
-the  Russian  commerce  will  be  p'j:lied  into  the  Indian 


;   III 
% 


236 


IMPORTANCE    OF    DISKO 


«r 


F 


',' 


'■v 


seas  by  the  same  course,  and  a  rivalry  of  trade  will  be 
among  the  consequences.  The  dignity  of"  the  crovu 
and  of  the  nation  is  moreover  deeply  concerned,  not 
to  suffer  the  national  honour  to  be  coujpromised  or  in- 
sulted, to  both  which  evils  that  honour  is  exposed,  un- 
less such  a  station  as  Disko  is  secured  ;  for  no  other 
place  in  Davis's  Strait  so  well  suits  that  object. 

The  Danish  government,  crippled  by  the  late  naval 
war,  was  unable  to  extend  her  protection,  even  if  so 
incHned,  to  her  Greenland  subjects.  This  was  evident 
in  a  proceeding  which  was  little  creditable  to  the  as- 
sailants. The  master  of  one  of  the  whale  ships,  in  the 
course  of  the  war,  not  having  had  success  in  his  voy- 
age, landed  atone  of  those  miserable  settlements,  and 
plundered  the  people  of  whatever  oil,  blubber,  whale- 
bone, or  skins,  they  possessed,  and  carried  the  spoil 
on  board  his  ship  in  triumph.  No  opposition  could  be 
made  ;  the  poor  people  therefore  submitted,  being  in- 
formed that  England  and  Denmark  were  at  war.  No 
inquiry  was  ever  instituted  on  the  subject,  and  restitu- 
tion, I  believe,  never  made  to  the  persons  so  plunder- 
ed. A  schooner  and  a  small  sloop  are  the  only  Danish 
vessels  usually  seen  at  Lievely,  and  they  are  kept  for 
the  purpose  of  collecting  the  produce  of  the  miserable 
trade  at  present  existing  there.  It  may  therefore  be 
insisted  that  little  difficulty  can  lie  in  the  way  of  ob- 
taining the  transfer  of  Disko  from  the  Danes,  as  it 
appears  to  them  rather  a  burden  than  a  benefit,  and  a 
trifling  equivalent  must  be  sufficient  to  satisfy  their 
claim  regarding  it.  The  unwillingness  of  that  govern- 
ment to  maintain  a  connexion  with  Greenland  has  ap- 
peared invariably  in  every  period  of  its  history  ;  and 


IN'    THE    CASE    OF    slCtE5«S. 


237 


in- 


tlie  placing  of  the  poor  Uskccs  under  the  adv-  ntages 
of  the  English  constitution  will  be  to  them  the  greatest 
blessing.  This  I  mention  with  the  greater  contidencc 
from  the  partiality  which  they  even  now  evince 
towards  the  crews  of  British  ships,  and  their  hesita- 
ting not  to  express  their  dislike  of  the  Danes. 

The  natives  of  Greenland  will  have  a  strong  induce- 
ment to  accept  of  such  a  change,  as  the  importation 
of  English  cloth  amongst  them  will  help  to  increase 
their  comforts.  The  coarsest  kind  will  be  acceptable 
to  them,  and  their  industry  will  be  encouraged  to  pro- 
vide for  the  market  the  seal-skin  dresses,  which,  pre- 
pared in  the  Uskee  manner,  are  indispensable  to  the 
sailors  frequenting  Davis's  Strait.  The  Uskee  jackets 
(called  watry  pook,  probably  an  imitation  of  the  word 
water  proof)  are  impermeable  to  water;  so  also  arc 
the  trowsers,  gloves,  and  boots,  which  are  all  made  of 
the  skins  of  seals  deprived  of  the  hair.  The  form  in 
which  the  jackets  are  cut  is  very  neat,  and  the  whole 
dress  looks  well  when  decorated  with  seals'  teeth, 
which  is  usually  done  in  a  very  tasteful  manner. 
When  the  sailor  apprehends  wet  or  severe  v.'cathcrhe 
is  generally  dressed  in  the  Uskee  fashion,  and  is  then 
regardless  of  the  storm,  having  all  his  under  dress 
dry  and  comfortable.  There  are  numerous  otlicr  ad- 
vantages accruing  to  the  native  Greenlandcrs  from 
such  a  change  ;  but  to  those  it  may  be  considered  su- 
perfluous to  draw  the  reader's  attention. 

To  the  design  of  taking  possession  of  Disko,  it  may 
be  objected,  that  the  distance  at  which  it  lies  from  any 
British  port,  and  its  being  for  so  many  months  locked 
up  by  ice,  would  render  the  expense  of  retaining  a 


238 


IMPORTANCE    OF    DISKO 


r 

i:, 

V 

'J' 


barren  spot  like  it  unprofitable.     To  this  a  satistacto- 
ry  reply  is  ready.     The  animals  which  abound  in  the 
seas  all  around  Disko,  will,  by  their  capture,  repay 
much  more  than  the  expense  even  of  establishing    a 
colony  there,  were  no  ulterior  object  in  view  ;  and  a 
little  labour  will  be  sufficient  to  make  it,  as  a  military 
post,  impregnable.     As  to  the  objection  about  its  being 
so  long  locked  up  by  ice,  the  same  might  also  be  urged 
against  the  Baltic  and  Archangel  trade.     Such  objec- 
tions are,  therefore,   weak  and  unavailing  to  such  as 
seriously  consider  the  importance  of  the  subject.  The 
comfort  of  llie  colonv  in  winter  can  be  rendered   as 
complete  in  Disko  as  it  is   in  many  northern  parts  of 
the  Russian  empire,  where  the  use  of  stoves  counter- 
acts tiiC  clTects  of  cold  as  great,  I  am  confident,  as  will 
be  evei  experienced  at  Disko.     The  late  inventions  of 
the  uses  of  steam  in  heating  apartments  may  be  appli- 
ed to  the  same  purpose  in  Disko  as  elsewhere;  so  that 
a  Greenland  habitation  may  hereafter  be  found  com- 
fortable even  to  a  luxurious  degree. 

In  the  event  of  the  north-west  passage  being  deter- 
mined, vessels  aided  by  easterly  and  northerly  winds 
in  the  beginning  of  the  season  may  run  across  west- 
ward, probably  before  the  heavy  ice  comes  down,  and 
in  their  return  eastward,  the  westerly  and  northerly 
winds,  which  prevail  much  on  the  American  side  in  the 
latter  season,  together  with  the  current,  which  is  al- 
ways in  a  boutherly  direction,  will  enable  them  to  ef- 
fect their  passage  across  the  arctic  sea.  In  both  those 
instances  Disko  will  present  a  favourable  resting  place, 
either  to  remain  at  during  winter,  or  to  leave  such 

cods  as  may  be  thought  necessary  for  the  colony,  or 


g' 


IN    THE    CASE    OF    SLCCESS. 


239 


the 
al- 
ef- 
lose 
ace, 
uch 
or 


for  the  purpose  of  procuring  a  supply  of  water,  wliich 
is  constantly  flowing  from  the  summits  of  Disko 
through  some  of  the  numerous  channels  in  its  rocky 
sides.  A  further  reason  may  be  adduced  why  that 
situation  for  a  colony  is  very  adviseable,  nay,  most  ne- 
cessary :  accidents  may  occur  in  the  arctic  b-Ms,  from 
which  serious  consequences  may  arise  to  vessels  enga- 
ged either  in  the  whale  fisheries,  as  they  are  called,  or 
in  the  Pacific  Ocean  trade  ;  and  in  such  circumstances 
the  ports  of  Disko,  presenting  a  favourable  retreat, 
can  be  said  to  offer  an  encouraijement  to  the  distress- 
cd  mariner  to  make  every  endeavour  in  overcoming 
h.s  difficulties  in  order  to  reach  such  a  secure  asylum. 
The  dangers  of  those  seas  would  thereby  become  di- 
minished, as  the  increasing  information,  derivable  from 
the  numerous  and  varied  courses  of  shipping,  would 
ascertain  the  real,  and  remove  the  imaginary  dangei-s 
of  the  voyage. 

Such  beneficial  consequences  would  not  be  confinccf 
to  Davis's  Strait  alone,  much  less  to  the  shores  of  Dis- 
ko. The  experience  of  each  succeeding  year,  by  add- 
ing to  the  stock  of  nautical  and  philosophical  science, 
would  enable  the  navigator  and  the  closeted  philoso- 
pher to  unite  in  effecting  a  junction  between  experi- 
ence and  abstract  reasoning,  mutually  beneficial  to  the 
cause  of  commerce  and  of  general  science,  and  pro- 
ductive of  a  third  good  effect — the  advancement  of 
the  great  cause  of  humanity. 

I  shall  proceed  to  exaroincj  in  as  concise  a  compass 
as  possible,  the  probable  results  of  the  expedition.  In 
this  respect  I  have  to  hope  that  the  vanity  of  prophe- 
cy may  not  be  ascribed  as  my  motive.     Having  seen 


I 

I 


240      IMPORTANCE    OF   DiSKO    IN   CASE    OP    SUCCESS. 

much  of  the  arctic  seas,  all  the  varieties  of  ice  forma- 
tion, as  well  as  under  what  peculiar  causes  its  destruc- 
tion is  every  year  effected,  and  having  pointed  out  to 
observation  the  destination  of  such  portions  as  are  not 
usually  dissolved  in  the  early  parts  of  the  season,  it 
may  be  allowable  to  indulge  a  little  effort  of  imagina- 
tion in  tracing  out  a  line  across  the  arctic  ocean,  in 
which  the  famed  passage  is  most  likely  to  be  effected. 


^  r 


.j^ 


241 


CHAPTER  X. 


CONCLUDING    OBSERVATIONS  ON    A  NORTH-WEST    PASSAGE. 

The  various  attempts  hitherto  made  for  the  discovery 
of  the  north-west  passage  to  the  Indian  seas  are  al- 
ready hcfore  the  reader.     The  causes  of  disappoint- 
ment  in  these  attempts  have  been  likewise  detailed. 
One  only  point  appears  to  remain  unexplored,  which, 
unfortunately  for  the  meritorious  Baffin,  was  not  ex- 
amined in  his  last  expedition.     It  is  not  fair  to   attri- 
bute that  failure  to  Baffin,  or  even  Bjlot.      Any  one 
little  conversant  with  the  perpetual  annoyance  of  ob- 
stacles occurring  in  icy  seas,  and  such  as  early  navi- 
gators in  those  regions  have  to  experience,  cannot  be 
supposed  well  able  to  determine  on  the  conduct  of  such 
ihen  as  Baffin  and  Bylot  when  involved  among  ice,  and 
remote  from  lands  with  which  they  were  familiar,  and 
in  quest  of  others  "  which  they  knew  not  of."     The 
greatest  praise  is  due  to  such  men  for  their  intrepidi- 
ty, and  to  them  particularly  who  made  such  a  mighty 
attempt  even  before  the  legislature  had  decreed  the 
sura  of  money  which  has  been  since  held  forth  as  an 
inducement  to  the  completion  of  the  discovery. 

It  must  have  been  somewhere  near  Devil's  Thumb 
that  the  route  of  Baffin  was  continued,  as  related,  to 
the  seventy-eighth  degree  j  but  as  the  land  along  that 
quarter  is  low  and  declining  rapidly  in  descent  as  it 
approaches  the  Pole,  and  also  verges  much  to  the  east- 

31 


242 


rONCLUDINC;    OBSERVATIONS 


ward,  such  a  course  could  not  be  productive  of  bene- 
jicial  consequences  to  inquiry  after  the  north-west  pas- 
sage.    Such  a  way  was  hkcly  to  be  as  unsuccessful  as 
the  design  of  sailing   to  the  North  Pole.     The  rela- 
tion of  the  return  of  those  navigators  is  equally  mys- 
terious.    Whether,  in  their  return  from  lands  in    the 
seventy-eighth  degree,  they  had  succeeded  in  sailing 
to  the  northward  of  the  chain  of  the  Linnaian  Isles, 
and  consequently  to  the  northward  of  the  great  accu- 
mulation of  ice  beyond  them,  is  not  known.     That  they 
saw  on  their  return  some  islands,   which  are  called 
Cary's  Islands,  and   sounds  (of  course  lands)  on   the 
western  side  of  Davis's  Strait,  or  Baflin's  Bay,  is  a  cir- 
cumstance which  is  also  involved  in  obscurity.     With 
that  however  the  present  question  has  no  immediate 
concern  ;  but  I  cannot  let  the  term  Baffin's  Bay  pass 
without  remark.     Any   water,  to    constitute    a  bay, 
must  be  embraced  by  land  :  such,  for  instance,  as  is 
Hudson's  Bay  ;  but  if  there  appear  no   land  to  the 
northward  of  Bairin's  Bay,  as  I  presume  is  the  fact, 
then  future  geographers  will  designate  that  portion  of 
the  globe  dilFerently  from  what  has  been  heretofore 
done.     The  present  expedition,  if  properly  furnished 
with  men  of  scientific  qualification,  as  I  have  no  doubt 
it  will  be  under  the  direction  of  the  lloyal  Society, 
will  return  with  store  of  materials  to  furnish  the  most 
accurate  and  ample  information  on  this  subject. 

Mr.  Ellis,  in  his  voyage  with  the  Dobbs  and  Califor- 
nia, found  the  current  always  setting  from  the  north- 
ward, even  in  places  where  no  opening  in  that  direc- 
tion was  perceivable.  It  is  true,  he  also  observed 
the  tide  running  successively  the  contrary  way ;  but 


ON    A    NORTH-WEST    PASSAOE. 


2i:i 


still  his  mind  was  impressed  with  tlie  firmest  convic- 
tion that  a  sailing  passage  must  be  found  in  a  northern 
direction  in  the  bottom  of  Hudson's  Bay.  He  even 
pointed  out  the  choice  of  two  places  where  the  pas- 
sage was  to  be  eflected  ;  and  that,  from  his  view  of 
the  great  supply  of  water  always  coming  from  the 
northward.  It  does  not  appear  that  any  attempt  has 
been  since  made  on  Mr.  Ellis's  suggestion  ;  and  as  no 
refutation  of  his  opinion  can  be  advanced,  his  sugges- 
tion remains  in  undiminished  credit. 

Mr.  Hearn,  in  traversing  a  portion  of  the  North 
American  continent,  came  in  view  of  the  sea,  which 
then  appeared  extending  interminably  to  the  north- 
ward, and  free  from  ice.  This  was  probably  some 
great  bay  belonging  to  the  Arctic  Ocean,  and  which 
will  most  likely  be  traversed  by  the  ships  of  the  expe- 
dition. That  this  expectation  is  not  unsupported  by 
facts  will  not  be  denied. 

In  the  first  place,  the  voyagers  in  Hudson's  Bay 
found  a  northern  current  setting  into  that  bay  to  the 
southward.  Ice  bere:s  have  been  also  seen  in  Hudson's 
Bay  ;  but,  as  Mr.  Ellis  relates,  rarely  to  the  north- 
ward ;  his  directions  being  to  keep  as  much  to  the 
northward  as  possible,  those  parts  being  usually  free 
from  ice.  Now  we  have  seen  that  ice  exists  only  in 
tranquil  water,  and,  of  course,  where  a  strong  current, 
or  much  agitation  of  the  sea,  is  observable,  the  disso- 
lution  of  ice  is  a  certain  consequence.  If  therefore 
Mr.  Ellis  found  Uie  ice  less  frequent  in  the  northern 
parts  of  Hudson's  Bay,  where  a  strong  current  was 
known  to  run,  it  naturally  follows  that  the  current  de- 
scended from  the  Arctic  Ocean,  dissolving  the  ice  in 


244 


Concluding  observations 


its  progress,  or  leaving  tlie  congealed  masses  behind 
among  the  rocky  channels  leading  from  that  water  in- 
to Hudson^s  Bay. 

Either  of  those  deductions  is  unfavourable  there- 
fore to  the  prosecution  of  a  passage  to  the  Pacific  by 
the  bottom  of  Hudson's  Bay ;  the  former  by  present- 
ing the  difficulties  arising  from  an  impetuous  current, 
and  the  apprehended  obstructions  of  masses  of  ice  and 
shelving  rocks  ;  the  latter  as  leading  inquiry  merely 
into  the  arctic  regions.  From  those  deductions,  how- 
ever, one  good  consequence  results.  The  current  to 
the  southward,  which  appears  to  borrow  its  chief  sup- 
ply from  the  great  Tartarian  torrents,  which  empty 
themselves  into  the  Icy  Ocean,  and  are  there,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  centrifugal  action  of  the  globe,  forced 
to  continue  their  motion,  seeking  an  exit  by  the  three 
openings  which  surround  the  Pole,  in  its  progress, 
carries  along  the  bergs  and  broken  ice,  and  either  de- 
posits them  partially  in  the  creeks  and  bays,  or  urges 
them  to  seek  a  passage  along  with  its  course.  The 
"waters  thus  cleared  afford  a  free  passage  for  naviga- 
tion, and  as  Hearn  saw  a  portion  of  this  \ery  sea 
clear  and  navigable,  so,  I  trust,  will  the  persons  em- 
barked in  the  present  expedition  merit  to  be  congratu- 
lated on  their  return  for  having  traced  out  the  whole 
of  the  arctic  shores  of  North  America  without  dan- 
ger or  obstruction. 

The  north-easterly  winds  impel  the  broken  ice  to- 
wards those  shores,  and  will  demand  the  utmost  vi- 
gilance to  guard  against  such  destructive  company  in 
case  of  contrary  winds.  The  prudence  and  caution  of 
the  mariner  are  in  excry  instance  praiseworthy ;  but. 


■♦i 


ON     A    NORTH-Wnvr    l'\-.>A(.W. 


2ir» 


in  tlic  |oresent  instance,  1  may  hv  indulged  in  tlirectln"- 
his  attention  most  earnestly  to  the  form  and  characlrr 
of  the  clouds,  and  such  other  matters  as  are  contuinoil 
in  my  Journal.  Previous  cxjDeriencc  or  superior  infoi  - 
mation  may  render  this  aduionilion  supoilhiouH  ;  but, 
even  if  it  be  so,  I  have  much  satisfaction  in  being  able 
to  communicate  so  mucli  as  1  have  done.  However, 
assuming  to  myself  the  credit  of  faithfully  representing 
those  facts  which  have  come  directly  under  my  ()l)ser- 
vation,  it  is  very  remote  from  my  expectation,  that  my 
communications  will  not  be  consldeied  of  value,  loth 
from  the  accuracy  of  detail  and  the  intention  witii 
which  they  are  advanced. 

As  no  doubt  of  the  final  success  of  the  exjicditlon 
rests  upon  my  mind,  we  shall  follow  up  the  inquiry, 
by  way  of  anticipation  on  the  course  to  be  pursued. 
Passing  by  the  channels  through  which  the  southern 
cui*rent  makes  its  progress  into  Hudson's  Bay  through 
Chesterfield's  Inlet  or  Repulse  Bay,  and  also  crossing 
over  the  entrance  of  the  great  bay  observed  by  Ilearn, 
a  tract  of  coast  presents  itself  totally  unknown,  and 
upon  whose  border  the  most  prominent  difiicultie;* 
stand.  The  narrow  outlet  for  the  ice  by  Beliring's 
Strait  is  the  chief  cause  of  those  difficulties  ;  because, 
if  the  polar  accumulation  extend  so  far  to  the  west- 
ward as  to  come  in  contact  with  the  American  coast, 
all  further  inquiry  will  be  fruitless.  If,  however,  the 
icy  continent  extend  not  so  far,  as  I  have  much  ground 
to  imagine,  from  Hearn's  seeing  open  water,  the  voy- 
age will  proceed  prosperously,  and  the  long  desired 
end  will  be  triumphantly  attained.  The  whole,  if  ac- 
tively investigated,  will  he  efiectrd  within  the  space  nl' 


21li 


CONCLL  DING    OU>F.KV  ATIONS 


one  niontli  aftrr  ilopaiting  from  the  latitude  of  Disko  ; 
but  the  greatest  precaution  should  be  observed  in  no- 
ting the  diderent  stale  ofthe  ice  on  the  prof^ress  west- 
ward ;  otherwise  a  retuin  may  be  attended  widi  dis- 
appointment and  danger,  in  the  [)rescnt  infant  state  of 
tlie  design  ;  particularly  if  the  north-east  winds  have 
driven  the  ice  towards  the  shores  of  Cundierland  Isle. 
At  future  periods  experience  will  point  out  the  actual 
situation  of  the  ice  in  the  latter  season,  of  which  a  re- 
gular recr  id  should  be  deposited  in  tlic  care  of  the 
Koyal  Society,  as  it  may  hereafter  be  found  of  the 
greatest  benefit  when  those  seas  become  frequented 
by  trading  vessels. 

It  would  not  at  the  first  attempt  be  adviseable  to 
search  the  coasts  to  the  southward,  with  intent  to  fmd 
a  passage  towards  Cook's  Kivei'.  the  northern  termi- 
nation of  which  is  still  unknown.  The  expedition  di- 
rected immediately  to  the  westward  towards  Beli'  ing's 
Strait  may  more  elfectually  accom[)lish  its  objects,  and 
will  probably  have  to  compliment  the  Russian  expedi- 
tion, under  Kotzebue,  long  before  it  will  have  doubled 
the  Prince  of  Wales's  Cape. 

What  a  prospect  lies  before  the  mind  after  the  Bri- 
lish  expedition  has  passed  Behring's  Strait!  The  vast 
expanse  of  the  northern  Pacific  spread  boundless  to 
the  view,  with  a  surface  almost  trackless,  containing 
numerous  islands  not  hitherto  discovered,  whose  inha- 
bitants will  receive  tiie  advantages  of  European  com- 
merce, and  British  constitutional  laws  !  The  produce 
of  those  islands  will  hereafte?"  amply  reward  the  trou- 
ble of  research,  discoveries  new  to  science  and  o(  va- 
lue to  more  civilized  society  being  unfolded,  the  histo- 


id,. 


K> 


^-jr' 


/ 


ON   A  NORTII-WF.^T  I'ASsAfiF.. 


») 


217 


ry  of  the  cartli,  and  a  knowledge  of  its  population 
more  accurately  determined,  and  the  general  state  ol 
human  kind  amehorated  ! 

Islands  as  yet  undiscovered  arc  not  classed  alone  as 
likely  to  participate  in  those  advantages.  The  exten- 
sive and  populous  empires  ol"  Japan  and  China,  heset 
by  the  true  principles  of  civilization  from  the  eastern 
and  western  intercourse  with  Europeans,  will  hy  de- 
grees learn  to  lay  aside  th(  •'•  barbarous  caution,  and 
blend  themselves,  in  the  virtues,  sciences,  and  refine- 
ments of  society,  with  the  great  family  of  mankind. 

The  Russian  empire  in  the  cast  will  have  a  new  inte- 
rest to  cultivate  in  the  friendship  of  Great  Britain. 
The  Aleutean,  or  Black  Foxes'  Islands,  are  the  right 
of  England  in  consequence  of  Cook's  discovery;  and 
Bristol  Bay,  to  the  north-east  of  them,  may  be  here- 
after an  emporium  for  the  Japanese,  Chinese,  Russian, 
and  British  trade,  which  will  turn  infinitely  to  the  ad- 
vantage of  the  latter. 

The  Japanese  differ  in  person  little  from  the  Uskec- 
mes,  seeming  to  spring  like  most  other  Tartar  nations 
from  a  common  origin.  The  sea  is  also  the  favourite 
resort  of  the  Japanese  in  the  same  manner  as  of  the 
Uskees.  The  former,  however,  by  inhabiting  more 
genial  climates,  where  nature  presented  comforts  in 
greater  abundance,  have  risen  to  higher  refinement, 
and  have  a  regulated  society  bound  by  a  code  of  laws 
peculiar  to  themselves,  and  which  are  most  rigidly 
enforced.  Yet  after  this  indication  of  advancement, 
Europeans  will  still  find  the  manners  of  the  Japanese 
repulsive,  and,  though  polite,  tarnished  still  with  bar- 
barous shades.     Their  commerce  with  the  Dutch  in 


21li 


»  ONCLLI)IN<.    OBsliRVATlO.Nn 


former  times,  who  treated  all  otlier  Kurcj'  :tis  '.yjili 
jealous  ami  treaclierous  eimiily  in  ortler  to  ng^randlzo 
themselves,  cotild  not  fail  to  impress  most  uiifavourabie 
notions  on  semi-barbarians,  witnessing  suoh  conduct 
amon/j^  strangers.  With  siicli  impressions  British 
commerce  will  have  to  contend.  Tlie  same  may  be 
biiid  of  tlie  Chinese,  who  are  more  cautious  and  proud, 
if  possible,  than  the  Japanese.  Care  and  circumspec- 
tion, and  respect  for  their  national  laws  and  customs, 
may  reconcile  them  to  European  manners  again,  and 
recover  their  confidence. 

A  fort  erected  on  the  promontory  of  Alaska,  or  on 
Queen  Charlotte's  Island  on  the  North  American 
coast,  would  be  a  protection  from  injury  or  a  safe  retreat 
in  case  of  vessels  receiving  damage  at  sea,  or  other 
injury  or  danger.  The  whole  of  that  immense  coast, 
from  Cook's  River  to  New  Albion  and  California,  is  the 
property  of  Great  Britain  by  right  of  discovery  :  and 
it  claims  particular  regard,  on  account  of  the  invalua- 
ble resources  with  which,  as  a  country  unexplored,  it 
may  be  supposed  to  abound.  That  great  tract  of 
coast  lies  mostly  in  temperate  latitudes,  and  for  that 
reason  may  suit  colonization  ;  and  the  superabundant 
population  of  Europe  may  be  there  induced  to  form 
new  settlements  under  the  protection  of  the  British 
Government. 

Trade  with  the  Mexican  and  South  American 
States  also  offers  the  grandest  inducements.  The  in- 
habitants of  those  countries,  roused  into  action  from 
their  lethargy  of  centuries'  duration,  will  soon  afford 
to  the  speculation  of  the  British  merchant  such  advan- 


f. 


/ 


ON  A  Nomn-wr.sT  i'assai.e. 


t2li« 


ta^cs  as  will  lead  to  a  trade  so  immrdiatr  and  proinpi 
as  must  follow  iho  discovctv  of  the  riurlli-west  pa>snu«\ 

A  consideration  of  the  utmost  importance  also  Ini- 
lous  that  event:  a  ready  and  direct  cominuniialion 
will  thus  take  placo  l)ctucen  liritain  and  her  south- 
eastern colonies.  New  Holland,  and  all  (lie  islands 
under  British  dominion,  Avill  then  be  hrou<;ht.  ;\s  it 
Avere,  in  contact  with  the  mother  country,  and  the 
communications  between  all  kept  up  with  the  2;reatesf 
facility,  economy  and  improvement.  It  is  needless  to 
point  out  the  luanerous  particular  advaniai;es  that 
must  accrue  to  tlie  interests  of  Enj;laud,  and  the  fu- 
ture great  and  inuueasurablc  benefits  that  must  arise 
to  society  in  general,  from  an  enlarged  and  multiplied 
intercourse  with  d»e  East,  by  means  of  tho  present 
course  by  the  Capes  of  Good  Hope  and  Horn,  and 
also  by  the  new  course  to  be  discovered. 

The  importance  of  this  subject  viewed  in  all  its 
great  consetpienccs  demands  the  uttiio^l  deliberation 
and  also  liberal  provision  for  the  persons  engaged  in 
the  expedition.  It  may  therefore  appear  tiivial,  iuid 
probably  be  received  as  an  unnecessary  hint,  that,  in- 
dependently of  the  comforts  of  warm  clothing,  double 
or  even  greater  stock  of  provisions,  and  such  other 
indispensable  articles  as  experience  or  prudence  may 
suggest,  a  suj)ply  of  oil  of  turpentine  .siiould  be  given 
to  each  vessel,  as  the  application  of  that  licjuid  to  any 
part  of  the  body  in  a  frozen  state,  will  prevent  Inflain- 
mation  and  its  miserable  consefjuences.  Parlies  going 
ashore,  on  the  investigation  of  natural  ol)jccls,  or  ma- 
king astronomical  observations,  should  be  provided 
with   a  fjuantitv  of  the  same  m..terial.  and  they  will 


32 


250 


CONCLUDING  OBSERVATIONS 


recollect  this  advice  with  satisfaction ;  and,  this  object 
in  view,  I  have  little  doubt  of  being  excused  for  in- 
truding a  gratuitous  opinion. 


CONCLUDING  OBSERVATIONS. 


.. 


[I 


r  SHALL  close  this  volume,  with  the  reader's  indul- 
gence, by  a  rapid  sketch  of  the  return  of  the  Thomas 
to  Hull. 

On  the  24th  of  July,  we  started  with  a  fresh  breeze 
at  N.,  whei!  eighteen  ships  were  in  sight  all  proceed- 
ing to  the  southward.  Then,  for  the  first  time  since 
entering  the  strait,  a  rainbow  appeared :  such  a  phe- 
nomenon is  very  rarely  seen  in  those  latitudes,  and  its 
Indication  has  not  been  ascertained. 

The  current  was  now  running  to  the  southward 
about  two  miles  or  one  mile  and  a  half  per  hour:  at 
other  times,  if  a  strong  wind  blow,  it  is  known  to  run 
nearly  five  miles  an  hour :  a  heavy  yellowish  white 
fog  bank  lay  along  the  land :  this  was  about  72"  N. 

For  several  days  the  wind  continued  N.  E.,  which 
was  succeeded  by  a  strong  breeze  at  S.  by  W.,  which 
retarded  the  progress  of  the  ship  very  much,  but  which 
did  not  last  long  ;  a  cirrus  radiation  occurred,  the 
(shafts  of  which  were  suddenly  converted  into  cirro- 
cumulus. 

In  latitude  62«  40'  N.,  the  Cape  Hen  (procellaria 
gravis)  appeared  :  the  ship  was  nearly  in  the  same 
latitude  on  the  23d  of  the  preceding  April. 


>  - 


ON'  A  NORTH-WEST   PASSAGE. 


251 


/ 


On  the  4th  of  August  the  wind  became  a  steady 
breeze  at  N.  E.  :  latitude  at  noon  by  observation 
60"  33'  N. 

About  the  midnight  of  August  the  6th,  much  light- 
nmg  was  observed  to  issue  from  behind  some  heavy 
fog  which  loaded  the  horizon  to  the  southward,  and  to 
this  succeeded  a  brilliant  display  of  polar  coruscation 
beginning  in  the  south-east,  and  traversing  the  southern 
region  to  the  north-west.  The  wind  about  two  hours 
afterwards  shifted  to  the  southward,  and  continued  in- 
creasing until  evening,  when  it  blew  a  hard  gale  with 
heavy  rain.  On  this  day,  being  in  about  the  latitude 
of  Cape  Farewell,  the  ship's  log  was  again  resumed, 
which  duty  is  suspended  whilst  the  whale  ships  remain 
in  Davis's  Strait,  and  is  only  observed  in  crossing  the 
ocean. 

Nothing  of  much  importance  during  the  voyage 
home.  Contrary  winds,  and  frequent  calms,  made  it 
very  tedious,  as  St.  Kilda's  came  in  sight  not  sooner 
than  the  26th  of  August,  and  it  was  joyfully  hailed 
by  the  ship's  crew. 

On  the  .0th  of  September,  being  kept  in  sight  of 
land  beating  about  in  an  easterly  wind  till  that  date, 
the  ship  anchored  in  Stromness,  whence,  after  a  sho^t 
stay  in  order  to  land  the  Orkney  sailors,  she  sailed  for 
Hull,  and  on  the  thirteenth  of  the  same  month,  came 
to  anchor  in  the  Humber  within  the  Spurn  Lights. 


THE     END. 


